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Contributions
| All (411) | Routes (6) | Areas | Photos (4) | Comments (33) | Posts (341) | Stars (22) | Ratings (5) | | Page 1 of 17. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 Next> |
Contributed Routes |
| Name |
Rating |
Type |
Location |
Useful To |
Date |
Bestiality | 5.9- R (2) | Trad, 1 pitch, 140 feet | ID : City of Rocks : ... : Decadent Wall | | Sep 5, 2011 |
Unknown | 5.10+ (1) | Trad, 1 pitch, 30 feet | UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Twilight Buttress | | Jul 10, 2011 |
Without Wheels | 5.11 (1) | Trad, 1 pitch, 30 feet | UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Twilight Buttress | | Jul 10, 2011 |
Tap N Stance | 5.11b (3) | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet | UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Great White Icicle Area | | Jun 24, 2011 |
North East middle face route (FA) | 5.7 R (1) | Trad, 5 pitches, 2000 feet, Grade IV | UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Storm Mountain | | Sep 9, 2009 |
Corner Crack | 5.7 (1) | Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet | UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Heart Wall | | Jun 21, 2009 |
Contributed Comments | | |
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Mind Blow (5.10d R)
By: Spri When: Sep 30, 2011 | view comment >> | Comments: I'm not sure how this route is getting 4 stars. It's good, but it's not amazing.
Insipient cracks lead to a hollow flake with a couple brick-sized holds that are ready to come off. Pull through this to a heavily vegetated section that you must bypass to the right. Finally, enter the slab climbing on interesting dishy and rail type features. A couple space out bolts, but all well placed at decent stances. Crux is at the seam/crack just near the lip. Interesting and fun sequence climbing ... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Super Slab : Super Crack (5.10)
By: Spri When: Sep 25, 2011 | view comment >> | Comments: I don't know... I mean, it is a good crack, but it is only about 15 feet. For me, it was hands at the very bottom, but most of it was cupped hands and closer to fists. One set of cams up to 3.5" is fine for this route. One 2.5" cam from the stance at the bottom, one 3.5" cam after you make one or two moves from the bottom, then it's over. I think the gear recommendation of taking extra hand sizes is off, but that is just me.
If it was longer, or the climbing up to it was better it'd get 2 s... more >>
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Location: WA : Mount Erie
By: Spri When: Sep 19, 2011 | view comment >> | Comments: Dallas Kloke is perhaps the person most reponsible for establishing, developing, and caring for Mt. Erie. The amount of work creating real trails (instead of social trails everywhere), scrubbing moss off of routes, clearing dead debris and branches away, taking fledgling climbers under his wing, and perhaps most importantly chronicling all of the routes has helped Mt. Erie become all that it is for those of us who have climbed there.
Dallas passed away while decending 4th class... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Pentapitch Area : Nubbins to Nowhere (5.10+)
By: Spri When: Sep 8, 2011 | view comment >> | Comments: Fun route, suprised that it doesn't see more traffic.
Crack up to 1 bold, step right on a delicate move (crux) to a decent lip, then reach high or make an intermediate move to get some pro in. Easy from there on out.
Easier 10 for sure.
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Owl Rock : Owl Rock - West : Owl Roof (5.10c PG13)
By: Spri When: Sep 5, 2011 | view comment >> | Comments: Sandbag. I pulled on a few pieces.
I will say though that I think I made it harder by trying to protect above myself. While there is danger of hitting the ledge, a green metolius fairly well buried would have been better than the hand sized piece that I placed. The hand sized piece really prevented me from shuffling my hand jams into the really secure part of the crack. If you place more gear above that, you make it even harder. Better to have that #1 BD or green metolius fairly high... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Dark Star Gully : The Birds (5.8-)
By: Spri When: Jun 22, 2011 | view comment >> | Comments: Did this a couple of years ago. The lower crack is fat and dirty, but I thought it was good from where it started traversing to the end. Worth doing, IMO.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Stranger Than Friction (5.10d)
By: Spri When: Jun 19, 2011 | view comment >> | Comments: This route, though short, is fun and unique climbing. The granite is lipped/edged, so even though it's a slab, you are edging more than you are actually smearing... a fun change up for LCC slab.
The bolts are button-heads. There is one angled pin in a horizontal between the second and 3rd (last) bolt. It's slightly angled down, and though it seems secure, doesn't seem that deeply placed.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Pins, Bashies, Matches and ... (5.11b)
By: Spri When: Jun 18, 2011 | view comment >> | Comments: TR'd this for the first time today. Quality climb.
The last bolt seems very strangely positioned. Going straight through it would be a hard 11 or 12. If you go left you hit some grooves (to me, Victory Gardens is further Left than this, around a corner) or if you go right you could end up with perhaps a more contrived face move or 2. The bolt doesn't really set you up for where the route goes... it's sort of in no-mans land, leaving it up to you to choose.
I'd like to lead this one next ti... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Sinsemilla Crack (5.10)
By: Spri When: Jun 18, 2011 | view comment >> | Comments: As mentioned earlier this one is sharp. To be specific, the outer lip of the crack is very sharp, so as a thin hands crack it'll chop up the backs of your hands pretty good.
Ps. Green metolius are good on this one. I felt the #1 bds were fairly tipped out, and that #2 bds were rather overcammed.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Dragon Arch : Gimme Danger (5.10+)
By: Spri When: Jun 15, 2011 | view comment >> | Comments: Gonna agree with Boissal about the first pitch. Gritty and groove-ish pro at the start. Actually, the whole crack is pretty much a groove as well as gritty, but every time you start thinking "I need a good placement!" a good placement that you can feel pretty good about shows up.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Kermits Wall and Perhaps Ar... : The Green Adjective (5.9)
By: Spri When: Jun 15, 2011 | view comment >> | Comments: Concerning the third pitch, since I did this recently, having never done it before.
It is described as 5.7 in the book... but that is definately an old-school, LCC "5.7" from "back in the day. The last pitch is a fat crack at the bottom (hand to fist), then it hits a ~5" OW section that is sloped so it isn't too bad to get standing on. At this point you can protect with a fingerish sized piece in a horizontal. This puts you at the crux of the pitch which is a slightly bulging 6" crack that y... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Super Slab
By: Spri When: Jun 11, 2011 | view comment >> | Comments: BETA NOTE:
If you follow the "spring time/high-water" approach, be aware that it will likely take you approximately 1+ hour to bushwack from the bridge up to the bottom of the superslab (not 10 to 15 minutes).
edit:
I should add, the bridge referring to the one that the road for the cars crosses. There used to be(?) a bridge off of the Temple Quarry footpath which was washed out and no longer exists?!!
Regardless, I could not recommend getting there except for crossing the stream in low-wate... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Beckey's Wall Area : Pebbles and Bambam (5.9)
By: Spri When: Jun 4, 2011 | view comment >> | Comments: Sort of irritating issue keeps coming up. When you do this with a 70 meter, you must rap to the tree. I've replaced webbing and left rap rings on this tree 2x, and every time I go up there, all of the slings are cut off.
I'm now rapping directly off the tree with the rope. Probably wont be long till it's dead.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Coal Pit Buttress : House of Cards (5.11) : Photo
By: Spri When: Sep 20, 2010 | view comment >> | Comments: Yeah, the guillotine is no longer, and this came from the left hanger at the belay just below it.
Pro on the roof= nice, solid pod for a red metolius. It's a somewhat tricky move, but not harder than a 9 or .10a at the very hardest to get over it once you actually figure it out. I spent a fair amount of time gardening to clean out a decent side pull, heh.
Pro is fine, you shouldn't need other bolts on the roof. Probably just a new hanger at that belay. It's too bad we didn't have any on us... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Coal Pit Buttress : House of Cards (5.11)
By: Spri When: Sep 20, 2010 | view comment >> | Comments: Beta Update 9/20/10:
The chains at the top of the tree pitch were nailed when the guillotine fell. One of the hangers is nearly flattened and the chain was sheared off see beta photo), and barely hanging by the ripped open quick-link. The other Fixe bolt with a rap ring in it appears to be ok.
Obviously the next pitch that HAD the guillotine on it has changed... as in, it's just a clean roof at this point. There is a great pod for a red metolius, and a somewhat tricky 5.9 or maybe 10a move ... more >>
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