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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Southern Yosemite : Mount Starr King : Southeast Face (5.6 PG13)
By: splitclimber When: May 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: ahh. starr king! hope future entries are vague to keep the adventure alive out there.
Was able to rap this with 1 70m rope/2raps. temporarily got the rope stuck trying to pull from under the small roof. had to extend a couple alpine draws from sling anchor to harness to swing out right and get the rope to move.
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Salt Point State Park : Free Willy
By: splitclimber When: May 26, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: the 2 bolt hangers are gone on this route. looks like you can rig an anchor with a long cord and a few cams from 2-3 inches.
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : Far Side Chimney (5.6)
By: splitclimber When: May 14, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice Floyd. You're sqeezing out all the juice from these crags. I like it.
Can also TR the face to the left, maybe 10a/b
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Atlantis Area : Minotaur Wall : Minotaur (5.7)
By: splitclimber When: Apr 16, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: yeah, the old vogel guide has the line starting on minotaur and ending on the wall behind it. confusing.
short, but really fun, esp. the top out.
a slightly sketchy reverse mantle move to descend
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : The Nut Tree Boulders
By: splitclimber When: Mar 13, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: the spraypainted crosses on the stonewall boulder is a huge shame. :(
appears somewhat new as the new grass growth had paint on it too.
the light pole boulders need some cleaning and PO removal.
good, dry conditions now and only stepped in one cow pie. :)
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : The Nut Tree Boulders : Hillcrest Boulders : Hidden Boulder
By: splitclimber When: Jan 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: lowball, scrunchy problems on the short left side overhang. kinda fun when you're too sketched to climb the highballs. :)
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : The Nut Tree Boulders : Hillcrest Boulders : Saddle Boulders : The Why Traverse (V5)
By: splitclimber When: Jan 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: how come no love for the upper saddle boulder. some good problems on that one but not in guides. are they too easy to include? :)
was out there on friday, a little muddy but not that bad.
thx for adding these Sal
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Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Castle Crags : Castle Dome : Castle Dome - 4th class rou... (X)
By: splitclimber When: Nov 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: a must do after climbing cosmic wall.
It really isn't 4th, but easy fifth. half way up there are two sections of featured dikes that are really fun to climb. or bypass the first dike section by going right around the corner to a gully. use the gully to decend.
the route picture here may be inaccurate. summitpost has some better pics and description of the climb.
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Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Castle Crags : The Ogre aka Mt. Hubris : Cosmic Wall (5.6 R)
By: splitclimber When: Nov 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: do this route! super fun. there are two bolts for the second rappel. don't really need a 3 on this route.
bring clippers for the trail and a new notepad for the summit register, it's full.
Paul wrote: "Once you gain the saddle between the ogre and Castle Dome, keep going! Just as you start dropping back down the other side, watch for a climbers trail on the left that winds through the manzanita thicket."
you don't have to start dropping down at all. go around the left side of the rock outc... more >>
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Location: International : Europe : Switzerland : Lauterbrunnen
By: splitclimber When: Sep 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: beautiful location and waterfall. the rock walls here are very impressive and I'm sure there has to be more routes in the area.
our canyoneering guide mentioned a few climbs and at the top of the Schilthorn cable car there are supposedly a bunch of bolted sport routes down a little ways from the top of the peak. I saw a outdoor adventure type pamphlet in Murren that described it along with the via feratta from murren to gimmelwald.
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : Seymour Frishberg (5.9 X)
By: splitclimber When: Sep 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: hard 5.9. too spooky for me to lead it. can TR with a directional. Stanton told me that it is really a mid-10 at the crag one day. should plug some gear before the first bolt too.
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : Shute-Mills Route (5.8)
By: splitclimber When: Sep 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: tope rope the independent line to the right. holds almost dissapear but not quite. :)
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Volcanic Tablelands (Happy/... : Sad Boulders
By: splitclimber When: Jun 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: yeah, i hate pulling up at the bottom thinking no one is out in the sad's, then see tons of people and realize they all come in from the top. fooey.
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Location: CA : Los Angeles County : Angeles National Forest : Crystal Lake Boulders : Photo
By: splitclimber When: Oct 28, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: i hope you're not serious.
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : Bushy Crack (5.9 PG13)
By: splitclimber When: Jul 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: great to TR after doing something good or step to the left.
great hand jam just below the bush, get the feet up. and a true 5.9. maybe should be 5.9+ to be consistent with other ratings out there. crux is the mini roof and a couple moves after it.
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : Separation Anxiety (5.9+)
By: splitclimber When: Jul 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: awkward with some fun moves. best to TR first with directionals after climbing kola. a fall will put you in the tree. I yanked on those flakes, too. :)
thx for the addition Tim and Chris.
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : Cereal Killer (5.10a)
By: splitclimber When: Jul 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, the lower section is hard 10 for sure. ended up stemming it.
It could use a little more cleaning on the right side of the arete.
Instead of 4th classing the bottom, I climbed the blocky rocks that provided some fun boulder moves (vo), then traversed above and next to the small conifer to the chimney/arete.
perfect rating for the far side though, back to sandbags, right outdooreric? :)
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Cattle Pocket : ... : Magic Pig (5.8)
By: splitclimber When: Mar 23, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: fun, steep and sustained climbing
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Walnut : Nothing, Honey (5.9+)
By: splitclimber When: Mar 23, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: atypical moves for Ahills. Thought it was a good, varied climb.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : Lost Eye to the Moon : Eye For an Eye (5.7)
By: splitclimber When: Mar 23, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: new anchors have been installed. we got off route and finished up to the top to the right of I4I anchors - maybe 5.8/9.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : Lost Eye to the Moon : Eye For an Eye (5.7)
By: splitclimber When: Feb 9, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: over a year ago i saw a note on tape on the first bolt about no anchors.
does anyone know the status of both anchors? I know there was some bolt replacement work last season.
thx.
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : The Bear : Bear Cub Crack (5.7)
By: splitclimber When: Dec 13, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: 2nd floyd's comments. we belayed from small tree then walked up and left and lowered off ursa minor. pretty fun climb, a little difficult placing gear.
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Fort Ross : Warmup Wall
By: splitclimber When: Oct 6, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments:
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Phantom Spires : Middle Spire : Tyro's Test Piece (5.5)
By: splitclimber When: Sep 24, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: feels a little insecure half way up left facing corner. maybe not the best first lead for someone.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Lover's Leap : Hogwild : Just Acquaintances (5.6)
By: splitclimber When: Sep 24, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: good climb but I'd say it's almost 5.8. I think supertopo has it as 5.6, but Carville has it right at 5.8. good pro.
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