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Member Since: Jan 22, 2007
Last Visit: 4 days ago
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Point Rank: # 7,240
Total Points: 41
Last Year: 6
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 206 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 41 | Posts 145 | Stars 11 | Ratings 9
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : Scorpion's Chair (5.9+)
By: splitclimber When: Sep 11, 2014

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Comments: sounds like you found it. The location description is right on - you'll pass two left facing corners across a ledge to the start which is a little crumbly and some trimmed back manzanita. you top out and walk back to the chain anchor up on a boulder.

I'd give it a 10a as well. fun climb.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : The Farthing (5.8 PG13)
By: splitclimber When: May 22, 2014

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Comments: Glad you got on them Floyd. I think Jerry recently added the anchor.

Don't miss top roping the faces to the left of each of these corner/crack climbs. really fun.


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Castle Crags : The Ogre aka Mt. Hubris : Cosmic Wall (5.6 R)
By: splitclimber When: May 22, 2014

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Comments: weird that someone would put glue ins up there. the rap bolts appeared fine and easy to clip from the summit.

edit: I bet the bolts are for slacklining. I've seen slackliners at the gap at lunch rock next to Castle dome last year.

I thought if there was any R it was the 20-30 feet before the first pitch anchor. I didn't find any reliable protection on the slab runout.


Location: ID : City of Rocks
By: splitclimber When: Apr 8, 2014

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Comments: can anyone recommend campsites that are close to the majority of climbs? We have a pop-up camper and prefer not to break down camp every day and drive to climbs? Would a bike be a good idea to get to climbs?

thx.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount St. Helena : Table Rock
By: splitclimber When: Nov 20, 2013

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Comments: in the big scheme of things, I don't care at all. Yes, probably plenty of climbs deserving of bombs, but it seems like Tyler had a bad day there and vented by bombing every climb.

No personal attacks. Just calling the action lame, that's all.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount St. Helena : Table Rock
By: splitclimber When: Nov 19, 2013

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Comments: WOW Tyson. So you climbed every route here and think every one is a bomb?

Lame of you. Totally lame. So you don't like the rock here. We get it. Stop polluting the quality ratings with your bombs.

That rock must have hit you in the head.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount St. Helena : The Bear : Ursa Minor, aka: Guillotine... (5.8+)
By: splitclimber When: Oct 3, 2013

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Comments: you can lead a variation of this climb, avoiding the lower curved crack, by clipping the bolts for Wayne's World and one on Just Bearly, then placing one 3" cam in the crack at the steep crux. fun long route and worth doing. 5.8




Location: CA : High Sierra : The Impala : The Diagonal Route (5.7)
By: splitclimber When: Sep 30, 2013

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Comments: your pic of the start of diagonal route does not correspond to the dotted topo overlay. My guess is the overlay is correct as it is a diagonal "chimney".

Attempted this route last month and started 100 feet left of the close up pic at the base of a large tree, not at the start shown on the dotted overlay. This start looked cleaner and more fun than the chimney and gained a sandy ledge where it met up with the chimney start shown in the close up pic. We went up a vegetated/kitty litter corn... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Southern Yosemite : Mount Starr King : Southeast Face (Easy 5th)
By: splitclimber When: May 28, 2013

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Comments: ahh. starr king! hope future entries are vague to keep the adventure alive out there.

Was able to rap this with 1 70m rope/2raps. temporarily got the rope stuck trying to pull from under the small roof. had to extend a couple alpine draws from sling anchor to harness to swing out right and get the rope to move.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Salt Point State Park : Free Willy
By: splitclimber When: May 26, 2013

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Comments: the 2 bolt hangers are gone on this route. looks like you can rig an anchor with a long cord and a few cams from 2-3 inches.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : Far Side Chimney (5.6)
By: splitclimber When: May 14, 2013

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Comments: Nice Floyd. You're sqeezing out all the juice from these crags. I like it.

Can also TR the face to the left, maybe 10a/b


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Atlantis Area : Minotaur Wall : Minotaur (5.7)
By: splitclimber When: Apr 16, 2013

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Comments: yeah, the old vogel guide has the line starting on minotaur and ending on the wall behind it. confusing.

short, but really fun, esp. the top out.

a slightly sketchy reverse mantle move to descend


Location: CA : Sacramento Valley/Foothills : The Nut Tree Boulders
By: splitclimber When: Mar 13, 2013

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Comments: the spraypainted crosses on the stonewall boulder is a huge shame. :(
appears somewhat new as the new grass growth had paint on it too.


the light pole boulders need some cleaning and PO removal.

good, dry conditions now and only stepped in one cow pie. :)


Location: CA : Sacramento Valley/Foothills : The Nut Tree Boulders : Hillcrest Boulders : Hidden Boulder
By: splitclimber When: Jan 28, 2013

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Comments: lowball, scrunchy problems on the short left side overhang. kinda fun when you're too sketched to climb the highballs. :)


Location: CA : Sacramento Valley/Foothills : The Nut Tree Boulders : Hillcrest Boulders : Saddle Boulders : The Why Traverse (V5)
By: splitclimber When: Jan 28, 2013

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Comments: how come no love for the upper saddle boulder. some good problems on that one but not in guides. are they too easy to include? :)

was out there on friday, a little muddy but not that bad.

thx for adding these Sal


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Castle Crags : Castle Dome : Castle Dome - 4th class rou... (X)
By: splitclimber When: Nov 7, 2012

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Comments: a must do after climbing cosmic wall.

It really isn't 4th, but easy fifth. half way up there are two sections of featured dikes that are really fun to climb. or bypass the first dike section by going right around the corner to a gully. use the gully to decend.

the route picture here may be inaccurate. summitpost has some better pics and description of the climb.


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Castle Crags : The Ogre aka Mt. Hubris : Cosmic Wall (5.6 R)
By: splitclimber When: Nov 7, 2012

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Comments: do this route! super fun. there are two bolts for the second rappel. don't really need a 3 on this route.

bring clippers for the trail and a new notepad for the summit register, it's full.

Paul wrote: "Once you gain the saddle between the ogre and Castle Dome, keep going! Just as you start dropping back down the other side, watch for a climbers trail on the left that winds through the manzanita thicket."

you don't have to start dropping down at all. go around the left side of the rock outc... more >>


Location: International : Europe : Switzerland : Lauterbrunnen
By: splitclimber When: Sep 21, 2012

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Comments: beautiful location and waterfall. the rock walls here are very impressive and I'm sure there has to be more routes in the area.

our canyoneering guide mentioned a few climbs and at the top of the Schilthorn cable car there are supposedly a bunch of bolted sport routes down a little ways from the top of the peak. I saw a outdoor adventure type pamphlet in Murren that described it along with the via feratta from murren to gimmelwald.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : Seymour Frishberg (5.9 R)
By: splitclimber When: Sep 4, 2012

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Comments: hard 5.9. too spooky for me to lead it. can TR with a directional. Stanton told me that it is really a mid-10 at the crag one day. should plug some gear before the first bolt too.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : Shute-Mills Route (5.8)
By: splitclimber When: Sep 4, 2012

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Comments: top rope the independent line to the right. holds almost dissapear but not quite. :)


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Volcanic Tablelands (Happy/... : Sad Boulders
By: splitclimber When: Jun 14, 2012

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Comments: yeah, i hate pulling up at the bottom thinking no one is out in the sad's, then see tons of people and realize they all come in from the top. fooey.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Angeles National Forest : Crystal Lake Boulders : Photo
By: splitclimber When: Oct 28, 2011

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Comments: i hope you're not serious.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : Bushy Crack (5.9 PG13)
By: splitclimber When: Jul 27, 2011

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Comments: great to TR after doing something good or step to the left.

great hand jam just below the bush, get the feet up. and a true 5.9. maybe should be 5.9+ to be consistent with other ratings out there. crux is the mini roof and a couple moves after it.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : Separation Anxiety (5.9+)
By: splitclimber When: Jul 27, 2011

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Comments: awkward with some fun moves. best to TR first with directionals after climbing kola. a fall will put you in the tree. I yanked on those flakes, too. :)

thx for the addition Tim and Chris.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : Cereal Killer (5.10a)
By: splitclimber When: Jul 27, 2011

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Comments: Yeah, the lower section is hard 10 for sure. ended up stemming it.

It could use a little more cleaning on the right side of the arete.

Instead of 4th classing the bottom, I climbed the blocky rocks that provided some fun boulder moves (vo), then traversed above and next to the small conifer to the chimney/arete.

perfect rating for the far side though, back to sandbags, right outdooreric? :)


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