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Member Since: Jan 22, 2007
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 236 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 54 | Posts 160 | Stars 12 | Ratings 10
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Northeast California : The Lost Sierra
By: splitclimber When: Jul 21, 2015

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Comments: confusing to have a sierra nevada range climbing area under Shasta Cascade. I guess it is lost. ;)


Location: CA : Northeast California : Bald Rock : Bald Rock Picnic Area
By: splitclimber When: Jul 21, 2015

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Comments: This area should be included with the Bald Rock Dome section instead of Lost Sierra IMO.

There are several really fun arÍte problems on these boulders and a worthwhile location to boulder.

also, does anyone know the rating of the 30 foot overhanging splitter crack near the summit area?


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Sugarloaf Ridge State Park : Hide Out Boulder : Hide (V3)
By: splitclimber When: Jul 16, 2015

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Comments: Hey Chris, hope to see you out there sometime.

To do Hide correctly you need to keep hands only on the horizontal crack/rail all the way over to bunchgrass. FA - Chris Summit


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : Tradfest (5.8)
By: splitclimber When: Jul 6, 2015

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Comments: Haha. What a great outing. Good climbing throughout esp. old tradition above war party.

We did far side chimney - initiation rite - old tradition - hummingbird spire - koka. I'm going big on the star rating.

We skipped on the other two short climbs mentioned to keep a pretty consistent upward movement throughout the linkup.

Clipped the first bolt you encounter on Koka but otherwise all gear. you could even skip some of the bolted anchors and built your own anchor on some of these.

Ch... more >>


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : Hummingbird Spire, N. Face (5.7)
By: splitclimber When: Jul 6, 2015

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Comments: overhanging 5.7 - short but really fun. I trundled some loose rock on top so the top out is much safer.


Location: CA : Northeast California : Lassen National Park : Eagle Peak : The Cat Walk aka The Cat Wa... : Unknown (5.8+)
By: splitclimber When: Jun 12, 2015

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Comments: heady climb for a warmup, but really varied and fun and pretty safe. the direct start with the bolt looked to be a move or two of 5.10 before the bolt. the standard left start works but is less direct.


Location: CA : Northeast California : Lassen National Park : The Belly Button aka Vulcan... : Left of the Regular Route : The Regular Route (5.8+)
By: splitclimber When: Jun 12, 2015

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Comments: I remember there being good gear, but I started off to the far right to get to gear placements early. Took the right variation on the second pitch which is exciting, then went directly over to the three crack/knob climbs up and right.


Location: CA : Northeast California : Lassen National Park : The Belly Button aka Vulcan... : Left of the Regular Route : Variation B (5.9+ R)
By: splitclimber When: Jun 12, 2015

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Comments: a fun TR - keep the helmets on. I popped a big softball sized knob at the top of this climb with my foot and nearly took out my belayer.


Location: CA : Northeast California : Lassen National Park : The Belly Button aka Vulcan...
By: splitclimber When: Jun 12, 2015

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Comments: such a cool crag. I never had the desire to go with the old topos. The new guide makes you stoked to go.

The last bit of the hike up to the crag needs carins as there are several ways to get there, some with more impact than others. We tried our best to stay off the loose stuff. With more traffic this last section could develop erosion issues.

Great featured rock, mostly solid, but don't let your guard down.

Thanks for adding all these north state climbs, Muscrat.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Uptown Rock : Uptown Rock - Upper Tier
By: splitclimber When: Apr 16, 2015

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Comments: the top of the two second pitches has great climbing with good gear and clean rock.

We had a 70m but it sure seemed like you could rap from the top down to the first anchor and then close enough to the ground with a 60.

Still need to climb the 5.9, but all of the other climbs were fun, well bolted and cleaned up.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Uptown Rock : ... : "Alan Bartlett Wasn't Here" (5.10a)
By: splitclimber When: Apr 16, 2015

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Comments: Nice work Tony.

My wife and I were there the first day Tony was there. We also pulled off a rock on blue collar where there is the small jagged corner.

I thought all the routes here were good, even sinner and saints which I toproped and it climbed cleaner and easier than it looks from the ground.

Thanks to everybody establishing and equipping routes out there. Being way up canyon is very scenic.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : The Nut Tree Boulders
By: splitclimber When: Jan 26, 2015

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Comments: nice dry conditions on Saturday with quite a few climbers out at the hillcrest/saddle area.

I just have to post this - Please don't go up to neighbor's houses and ask if you can use their toilet because you really have to go. I actually watched this happen as I was packing up at the car.

One home owner was pretty amazed that some kid would ask that when he could drive 5 minutes to the gas station if he is feeling a blow out coming. Sheesh. Let's be respectful to the home owners in this area... more >>


Location: CA : Northeast California : Castle Crags : Castle Dome : NW Ridge (5.9 PG13)
By: splitclimber When: Oct 30, 2014

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Comments: isn't it a 5.8 in the guide or is that a sandbag in your opinion?
on the list to do. thanks for posting it.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : Scorpio Rising (5.10a)
By: splitclimber When: Sep 11, 2014

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Comments: sounds like you found it. The location description is right on - you'll pass two left facing corners across a ledge to the start which is a little crumbly and some trimmed back manzanita. you top out and walk back to the chain anchor up on a boulder.

I'd give it a 10a as well. fun climb.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : The Farthing (5.8 PG13)
By: splitclimber When: May 22, 2014

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Comments: Glad you got on them Floyd. I think Jerry recently added the anchor.

Don't miss top roping the faces to the left of each of these corner/crack climbs. really fun.


Location: CA : Northeast California : Castle Crags : The Ogre aka Mt. Hubris : Cosmic Wall (5.6 R)
By: splitclimber When: May 22, 2014

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Comments: weird that someone would put glue ins up there. the rap bolts appeared fine and easy to clip from the summit.

edit: I bet the bolts are for slacklining. I've seen slackliners at the gap at lunch rock next to Castle dome last year.

I thought if there was any R it was the 20-30 feet before the first pitch anchor. I didn't find any reliable protection on the slab runout.


Location: ID : City of Rocks
By: splitclimber When: Apr 8, 2014

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Comments: can anyone recommend campsites that are close to the majority of climbs? We have a pop-up camper and prefer not to break down camp every day and drive to climbs? Would a bike be a good idea to get to climbs?

thx.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : Table Rock
By: splitclimber When: Nov 20, 2013

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Comments: in the big scheme of things, I don't care at all. Yes, probably plenty of climbs deserving of bombs, but it seems like Tyler had a bad day there and vented by bombing every climb.

No personal attacks. Just calling the action lame, that's all.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : Table Rock
By: splitclimber When: Nov 19, 2013

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Comments: WOW Tyson. So you climbed every route here and think every one is a bomb?

Lame of you. Totally lame. So you don't like the rock here. We get it. Stop polluting the quality ratings with your bombs.

That rock must have hit you in the head.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : The Bear : Ursa Minor, aka: Guillotine... (5.8+)
By: splitclimber When: Oct 3, 2013

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Comments: you can lead a variation of this climb, avoiding the lower curved crack, by clipping the bolts for Wayne's World and one on Just Bearly, then placing one 3" cam in the crack at the steep crux. fun long route and worth doing. 5.8




Location: CA : High Sierra : Whitney and Surrounding Pea... : The Impala : The Diagonal Route (5.7)
By: splitclimber When: Sep 30, 2013

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Comments: your pic of the start of diagonal route does not correspond to the dotted topo overlay. My guess is the overlay is correct as it is a diagonal "chimney".

Attempted this route last month and started 100 feet left of the close up pic at the base of a large tree, not at the start shown on the dotted overlay. This start looked cleaner and more fun than the chimney and gained a sandy ledge where it met up with the chimney start shown in the close up pic. We went up a vegetated/kitty litter corn... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Southern Yosemite : Mount Starr King : Southeast Face (Easy 5th)
By: splitclimber When: May 28, 2013

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Comments: ahh. starr king! hope future entries are vague to keep the adventure alive out there.

Was able to rap this with 1 70m rope/3raps. temporarily got the rope stuck trying to pull from under the small roof. had to extend a couple alpine draws from sling anchor to harness to swing out right and get the rope to move.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Salt Point State Park : Free Willy
By: splitclimber When: May 26, 2013

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Comments: the 2 bolt hangers are gone on this route. looks like you can rig an anchor with a long cord and a few cams from 2-3 inches.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : Far Side Chimney (5.6)
By: splitclimber When: May 14, 2013

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Comments: Nice Floyd. You're sqeezing out all the juice from these crags. I like it.

Can also TR the face to the left, maybe 10a/b


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Atlantis Area : Minotaur Wall : Minotaur (5.7)
By: splitclimber When: Apr 16, 2013

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Comments: yeah, the old vogel guide has the line starting on minotaur and ending on the wall behind it. confusing.

short, but really fun, esp. the top out.

a slightly sketchy reverse mantle move to descend


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