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Member Since: Feb 5, 2013
Last Visit: Dec 12, 2013
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Point Rank: # 14,898
Total Points: 10
Last Year: 10
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Spandex been climbing?










Contributions


All 61 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 10 | Posts 10 | Stars 26 | Ratings 15
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Valley Bouldering : Horse Trail Boulders : Great White (V1)
By: Spandex When: Sep 21, 2013

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Comments: An amazing problem that is very likely to challenge and stimulate most climbers but those surely in the middle of the transition from gym to outdoors. Moves are V1 strength but involve unexpected reaches and granite foot holds...


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Valley Bouldering : Candyland Boulders : Once Upon a Time (V3)
By: Spandex When: Sep 21, 2013

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Comments: Words can't explain this problem! It is everything you (may) want bouldering to be. Took me 3 sessions on this problem to complete it.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Camp 4 Wall : Doggie Deviations (5.9)
By: Spandex When: Sep 21, 2013

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Comments: Such a cool route. Lots of mosquitos in spring and early summer due to huge tree coverage and nearby drainage - make sure your belayer is watching you and not slapping mosquitos.

You will be challenged on this stout climb with a huge variety of techniques: jams, fists, first twenty ft of sustained fingers, lieback, some offwidth, and even some careful stemming towards the end. Bring nuts for a few parts toward the top that will take nothing else. Also a #4 would help at the top of the ov... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : School Rock : Junior High (5.6)
By: Spandex When: Jul 9, 2013

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Comments: No reason to not do the direct start - the traverse otherwise seems to add just too much drag and decrease the amount of climbing, and all just to bypass what is maybe merely a psychological crux and a few moves of easy 5.8. The second pitch dihedral is actually stellar in my opinion, with some quality stemming moves, and would deserve three stars if it was at least twice as long (protects with 2-3 cams only). The leftmost hardest variation on the third pitch protects not as well as the middle a... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : School Rock : Eleventh Grade Corner (5.8+)
By: Spandex When: Jul 7, 2013

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Comments: I did this several days ago and actually thought it was really quality, especially compared to its 5.9 neighbor to the left (though I'm sure many would disagree with this comparison). It is pretty steep and so I stemmed for most of the climb with great footholds on both sides of the dihedral - moves sometimes akin to that on the problem Once Upon a Time in Yosemite's Candyland. The delicate moves yield memorably to the flow of the climb.

You can protect with small gear, say doubles of #1-... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Snowshed Wall : Devaluation Direct (5.10a R)
By: Spandex When: Jul 4, 2013

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Comments: I give it three stars because of the direct start in the squeeze - absolutely amazing. It will make you think, hopefully. Left side in with a little chicken winging and a #3 or #4 up high in the squeeze: in my opinion, a quality crux. The next piece I placed was a yellow #2 mastercam a foot above the top of the squeeze. Definitely not R though some of the rock quality made me question my placements. The obvious left-facing corner protects well with .75-2 BD but beware of shallo... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Snowshed Wall : Telegraph Crack (5.8)
By: Spandex When: Jul 4, 2013

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Comments: Lots and lots of jams with a few fists every so often and high feet. There are many stances for placing high-reach pro. A BD #4 comes into play lower down, and the wide section higher up will use up a .5 or .75 in a slot if you only have one #4. Descend on rap rings at top next to good-looking manzanita, then run up Mole's Corner just to the right for extra fun. Then walk a little down for Nova Express, and then fifteen feet more for Farewell to Arms. Ah, Snowshed.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Snowshed Wall : Mole's Corner (5.8)
By: Spandex When: Jul 4, 2013

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Comments: Though short, a persistent dihedral with delicate footwork, especially for the grade. I believe I placed a BD .4, .5, a 2 deeper in 3/4 of the way up or so, and a .75 or 1 for the roof, which is cake with a jug a short reach away. True: at least 2 or 3 times longer and this would be really something. The stemming moves are really awesome for how brief the route is.

Conditions: I did this 6/2/13 and there were no rap rings; I lowered off two draws to clean, then hiked up 4th and easy 5... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Black Wall : Firecracker (5.10b) : Photo
By: Spandex When: Jun 28, 2013

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Comments: The calm before the storm!


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Black Wall : Black September (5.9)
By: Spandex When: Jun 28, 2013

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Comments: Probably one of the coolest and most intriguing single pitches I have ever climbed - the name suits its morbid demeanor and tugs at you to climb it.

Getting off the ground and the first 20 feet or so are the most technical. For the rest of the climb you enjoy perfect jams in some awesome cracks, especially the pseudo-flaky right-facing crack towards the middle. The crux in the chimney-squeeze 20 ft or so below the finish may not require using the chimney but still remains very wild. You will r... more >>


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Best Moderates in YosemiteNorthern CaliforniaSpandexSep 21, 2013
Looking for bouldering partners for Holy Boulders 20-22 Sep '13MidwestSpandexSep 16, 2013
Looking for WeekDAY Tahoe and Valley Partners all of June/JulyNorthern California PartnersSpandexJun 21, 2013
re: Moving to St. Louis soon - Seeking partners and informationMidwestSpandexJun 13, 2013
Moving to St. Louis soon - Seeking partners and informationMidwestSpandexJun 11, 2013
re: Big wall climbing partners in Yosemite: May 28-Jun 26Northern CaliforniaSpandexJun 1, 2013
re: Misty Mountain is a great companyClimbing Gear DiscussionSpandexMay 13, 2013
re: Yose: Arch rock conditions post-rain/snow storm this week.Northern CaliforniaSpandexFeb 14, 2013
re: Looking for Room for Rent in Bishop during May 2013Northern CaliforniaSpandexFeb 14, 2013
Looking for Room for Rent in Bishop during May 2013Northern CaliforniaSpandexFeb 5, 2013

Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

Black September 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Black Wall

Bishops Terrace 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Church Bowl

The Diamond Left V6 7A

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Candyland Boulders

Ahwahnee Arete V4 6B

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Ahwahnee Boulders

Great White V1 5

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Horse Trail Boulders

Once Upon a Time V3 6A

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Candyland Boulders

Circuit Breaker V2 5+

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Curry Village

Doggie Deviations 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Camp 4 Wall

Rated X 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Black Wall

Eleventh Grade Corner 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : School Rock

The Shadow V7 7A+

MO : Elephant Rocks State Park : Picnic area

Rat Stew 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

KY : Red River Gorge : ... : Bruise Brothers Wall

Dirty Old Men 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

KY : Red River Gorge : ... : The Sanctuary

Walk the Line 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

KY : Red River Gorge : ... : The Stadium

Nutcracker 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Manure Pile Buttress (aka R...

Mole's Corner 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Snowshed Wall

Devaluation Direct 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Snowshed Wall

Zorro V4 6B

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Curry Village

Primer 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Black Wall

Mary's Crack 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : School Rock

Telegraph Crack 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Snowshed Wall

First Fall 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

KY : Red River Gorge : ... : The Sanctuary

Little T-Bone 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

KY : Red River Gorge : ... : The Great Wall

Junior High 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : School Rock

Yellow Jacket 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Green Phantom Rock

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