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My first time leading crack on Lost Ego. Photo JLe


Member Since: Jul 9, 2008
Last Visit: Oct 18, 2012
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All (132) | Routes | Areas | Photos (15) | Comments (16) | Posts (17) | Stars (61) | Ratings (23)

Contributed Comments

 

Location: MN : Barn Bluff (Red Wing) : The East End : Sunburst (5.7)
By: Sonnabend When: Aug 9, 2010

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Comments: This really isn't as bad as everyone says. Yes, it probably goes a bit harder than a 5.7 now that the feet have gotten polished but I wouldn't give it a "bomb" rating.
I set this up as a top rope last week and none of the 4 or 5 people that top roped it (on my gear) after me complained about the route.
This really isn't a great first lead anymore, but still worth climbing.


Location: MN : Barn Bluff (Red Wing) : Annadonia Area : Cardiac Standstill (5.9+)
By: Sonnabend When: Aug 9, 2010

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Comments: First route to the right of Sunburst. I will have to climb this again but it seemed more difficult than a 5.9+. I struggled through the crux on this route and then went over and flashed Jumpstart. This is a good route though and maybe it is more of a 5.9 red point route... we'll see.


Location: MN : Tettegouche SP (North Shore... : Palisade Head : Quetico Crack (5.8-)
By: Sonnabend When: May 17, 2010

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Comments: This is a great route to do on top rope, would also be a fun lead if you have big enough gear. Lots of interesting moves on this route, it can be as difficult or as easy as you want it to be depending on how you approach it. Lots of fun.


Location: WI : Interstate State Park : Picnic Area : Pine Tree, a.k.a. Picnic Fa... (5.10a)
By: Sonnabend When: Sep 29, 2009

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Comments: This is a stellar route. From the bottom it looks there there are no holds at all but as soon as you start up it all the holds become apparent.


Location: WI : Interstate State Park : Picnic Area : Rock Dove a.k.a. Picnic Cra... (5.6)
By: Sonnabend When: Sep 29, 2009

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Comments: Pretty straight forward lead. Kind of difficult to protect the offwidth in the middle of the route.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : The Pond : Arete Horizon (5.10a)
By: Sonnabend When: Sep 28, 2009

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Comments: This route is better than Pocket Puzzle. Thanks to Chris Bastek for giving me a guided tour of the ponds and putting me on this route. I did this one about 20 minutes after Pocket Puzzle both are great.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Black Corridor : Black Gold (5.10b)
By: Sonnabend When: Sep 28, 2009

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Comments: Stick clipping the first bolt on this would have been a good idea. Real crimpy up to the ledge then great the rest of the way up.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Black Corridor : Lewd, Crude, and Misconstru... (5.9+)
By: Sonnabend When: Sep 28, 2009

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Comments: Brutal start on this route. I ended up down climbing off of it because I couldn't make it past the second bolt. I saw a guy climbing a 5.11 struggle with the start of this route. The rest of it looked fun though. Maybe if you stick clipped the first two bolts.


Location: MN : Tettegouche SP (North Shore... : Palisade Head : KGB (5.7)
By: Sonnabend When: Sep 28, 2009

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Comments: This is a good moderate to set up a TR on. TR setup requires some long webbing to sling some trees and a medium sized hex for good measure/directional. Lots of gravel at the top so belayers should have a helmet on. I wouldn't top belay this one for that reason also. People that aren't into crack climbing will still be able to climb this route.


Location: MN : Tettegouche SP (North Shore... : Palisade Head : Christmas Tree Crack (5.10a)
By: Sonnabend When: Sep 28, 2009

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Comments: This is a great option for anyone that wants to climb a great crack but isn't a great trad leader yet. The first pitch of Laceration Jamb is worth it. The last half of this climb is still pretty fun.


Location: MN : Tettegouche SP (North Shore... : Palisade Head : Socket Wrench (5.8)
By: Sonnabend When: Sep 28, 2009

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Comments: This was a solid route and pretty fun. There were a couple awkward placements and some loose rock that prevents you from using some obvious placements. It is a short route so I just put gear wherever I could. There are three old pitons on this route, one right at the base and then two more on the route, they seemed pretty solid but I chose not to use them. The lost arrow in the middle of the route would have saved me a couple minutes as I putzed around in that spot looking for a placement.

I se... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : The Pond : Pocket Puzzle (5.10a)
By: Sonnabend When: Mar 5, 2009

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Comments: Great climb, very sustained and no real rest spots. I'd guess it was about 75 feet to the anchors. The anchors are not shuts though, just chain.

Getting the first bolt really sets the tone for the route but once you get past that it makes the rest seem much more doable.

Enjoy

Also try the route just to the right of this "Arete Horizon" it is pretty equal in difficulty and equal in the fun category as well.


Location: WI : Interstate State Park : Indian Head : Mantrap (5.10c/d)
By: Sonnabend When: Feb 25, 2009

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Comments: This route is a killer and called Mantrap for a reason. I've seen a couple people get up to the roof and then get totaly stuck.
Getting to the roof and then pulling the roof takes so much out of you that the upper half of the route becomes much more difficult than it would seem.
This is one of my favorites here because of the difficulty and variety of the climb.

Be careful where you stand when belaying the climber at the start because if they pop off the will swing out a ways.


Location: WI : Interstate State Park : Sentinel Area : Yosemite Crack (5.10a)
By: Sonnabend When: Feb 25, 2009

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Comments: This is a great crack, tough to get started but very rewarding once you get it. I recommend climbing the 5.10a face right below it to get to the ledge. The face has some interesting moves.


Location: WI : Interstate State Park : Wisconsin Strip : Batman (5.10c)
By: Sonnabend When: Sep 8, 2008

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Comments: This is a great route, at first it seemed to be much more difficult than the guidebooks 5.10b rating but once you figure out the correct sequence of moves (especially footwork) I think the 10b rating is close to accurate.

There is a loose hold about 3/4 of the way up that will break off at some point that will deffinately impact the difficulty rating of this route. I don't think it is a safety hazard for the climber but deffinately could be for the belayer as well as bystanders if the climber w... more >>


Location: MN : Barn Bluff (Red Wing) : Annadonia Area : Looking for Lust (5.9)
By: Sonnabend When: Jul 9, 2008

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Comments: Climbed this on July 8th, 2008. This is a great route, deffinately my new favorite at Barn Bluff.
I replaced one of the carabiners at the anchor due to it being worn about halfway through on one end. A good reminder for me to always bring a couple spare biners and not to use them for belaying.