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Member Since: Dec 2, 2008
Last Visit: Jul 5, 2014
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 580 | Routes 11 | Areas | Photos 16 | Page Improvments | Comments 151 | Posts 391 | Stars 11 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WA : Northwest Region : Bellingham Area : Julia's Outcrop (Governor L... : Saffron Spider (5.9)
By: smassey When: May 8, 2011

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Comments: This is an old-school bolted route. The cam in question is a yellow Alien/Metolius.


Location: WA : Northwest Region : Bellingham Area : Julia's Outcrop (Governor L...
By: smassey When: May 8, 2011

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Comments: Great little crag! Thanks to Matthias Holladay for putting these routes up! Just a heads-up for those who may climb Smoke on the Water. The 3-bolt 5.8 version is the retro-bolted start to the full route, which feels about 11c. Also, the now 3rd bolt was placed in a detached block, so I would not recommend falling on it. If anyone is interested in helping with the rebolting work, feel free to PM me. I'll be in the Ham this summer with a Bosch and a pile of ASCA hardware. BTW, if these rout... more >>


Location: WA : Northwest Region : Bellingham Area : Julia's Outcrop (Governor L... : Smoke On the Water (5.11c) : Photo
By: smassey When: May 8, 2011

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Comments: Looks to me like Joe's just in the warm-up portion. Great holds, though!


Location: WA : Northwest Region : Bellingham Area : Julia's Outcrop (Governor L... : Smoke On the Water (5.11c)
By: smassey When: May 8, 2011

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Comments: Really curious who thought it would be a good idea to turn one of the best, steepest, 11's in the B'ham area into a 3-bolt 5.8. The first and third bolts were placed as retro-bolts last year without permission from the FA party. Weak Sauce, people. Not only that, you placed the third in a loose block. That's why it was not there in the first place. That, and that it's not needed if you're climbing 5.11. The route ends at chains on top of the cliff. I had replaced almost all the bolts, but... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Lost Creek Canyon : Bighorn Buttress (5.10+ R)
By: smassey When: May 5, 2011

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Comments: Thanks, Josh! Yeah, despite appearances, most of the bolts on this probably would've held a fall or two more. The one set of bolted anchors flexed alarmingly, and were eroding out of their placements, but were pretty solid... Those jammed knots, on the other hand, are bomber...


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Lost Creek Canyon : Bighorn Buttress (5.10+ R)
By: smassey When: Apr 29, 2011

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Comments: As of 4/29/10, the LVCLC with the blessing and support of the ASCA, has replaced all but the crux bolt on this route. Bolts are 3/8x2.25 SS, with one 3/8x3 SS in the bolted anchor. To those who were worrying about that Star-Dryvin, let's just say it took some work to get it out. The remaining bolt will be replaced in the near future. Right now the first anchor does indeed consist of several jammed knots, backed up with a new-looking huge stopper. If one wanted to construct a modern belay an... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Cactus Flower Tower : Blood Wall : Seppuku (5.11a/b)
By: smassey When: Apr 19, 2011

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Comments: Fun route - good rock. Both the first and last anchors were laying on their respective ledges - kind of amusing... Last party to climb this must've topped out...


Location: NV : Red Rock : Red Spring Boulders : Sundial Boulder : Unnamed (V7)
By: smassey When: Mar 30, 2011

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Comments: Sounds sweet, brah! appreciate the thorough descriptions!!! cheers!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Cannibal Crag : Ma and Pa Kettle (5.7)
By: smassey When: Mar 25, 2011

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Comments: Apparently someone chopped the anchor on this one. Since they were ASCA mussys, it would be great if that person could put them on a route that needs them, or return them. If you could also patch the holes, that would be cool. In any case, if you go to do this route, you can set a TR anchor with #3,4 Camalots.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Sandy Corridor : Chrysler Crack (5.9)
By: smassey When: Mar 24, 2011

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Comments: At least the drill dust has finally washed off from that. Now all the great photos of Chrysler will have a line of (well-camo'd) bolts in the frame. Well, at least thanks for the fixed line. It makes getting up there just a matter of batmanning up the line. It is desperately hard, so I guess that means something, to someone. For those of us who don't climb 5.13 slab, it just obscures the view from one of the best 5.9 cracks in RR. Cheers.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : The Case Face : Territorial Imperative (5.10c PG13)
By: smassey When: Mar 19, 2011

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Comments: On 3/17/11, the LVCLC, with support from the ASCA and drilling assistance from AAI, replaced the two protection bolts with 3/8x2.25 SS.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Upper Tier : Sundog (5.9)
By: smassey When: Mar 14, 2011

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Comments: As of 3/10, most of the bolts are older 1/4 or 5/16 studs. The second pitch belay bolts wiggle just a little - can be backed up with a yellow alien and a creaky slung horn. The first two bolts on the crux are garbage, with the third and forth being pretty decent. The 3rd pitch has a new 3/8x2.25 SS, courtesy of the ASCA, and can be backed up with gear. The last pitch also can be backed up with a red camalot. If one feels the desire to rap a more established rap route, the traverse over to t... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Upper Tier : Arch Enemy (5.9)
By: smassey When: Mar 14, 2011

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Comments: On 13 March, the LVCLC with support from the ASCA replaced the two horribly rusted pro bolts on pitch 2, and one of the anchor bolts on the pitch 1 anchor. The other is a decent looking 5-piece. The bolts are 3/8x2.25 SS, and the anchor was equipped with links and rings. The unsightly wad of tat was removed.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Epinephrine (5.9)
By: smassey When: Mar 6, 2011

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Comments: Just a heads up. The good jug that you mantel off on the entrance to the last chimney pitch is going to come off really soon. It was severely flexing today, 3/6/11. Would've cleaned it, but was kinda feeling weak sauce. Sorry sqwrlllll, didn't see the bovinity anywhere.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : The Hamlet : Sweets to the Sweet (5.7)
By: smassey When: Mar 4, 2011

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Comments: Christine, you should know that Jason Martin put up all of these routes...


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : The Hamlet
By: smassey When: Mar 4, 2011

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Comments: Sometime in the madness of the last month or so, the wiggly anchor bolt on Sweets was replaced with an ASCA 1/2x2.75 SS. Oh yeah, and that TR bolt was replaced about a year ago, but I forgot to write it up. as if anyone reads this anyway...


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Lower Tier : Certain Air (5.10b/c)
By: smassey When: Feb 16, 2011

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Comments: I second Xavier. The route lives up to its name, with the potential for falling due to breaking rock a high possibility. The gear is adequate. If doing this route, my advice would be to end the third pitch at the obvious ledge, with the best anchor on the route. Rather than continuing to the top of the buttress to access the final Horndog crack, go up slightly off the ledge and traverse into the Horndog crack. A 60m will just make it to good anchor potential with proper use of runners.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Lower Tier : Solar Slab Gully (5.3)
By: smassey When: Feb 16, 2011

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Comments: On 2/15/11, the LVCLC with support from the ASCA replaced the wiggling first pitch anchor bolts. The new bolts are 1 ea. 3/8x2.25, 3/8x3 SS. They were moved about two feet higher due to stance and rock quality concerns, actually improving the rope pull on the way down. Also replaced was one of the pitch .5 anchors (last rappel with a single rope) with a 3.8x2.25 SS. The remaining bolt is a decent 5/16 stud.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Viagra Tower : Viagra Corner (5.6)
By: smassey When: Feb 9, 2011

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Comments: 02/09/2011 - The LVCLC with support from the ASCA replaced the anchor on this route with two 1/2x3.5". The original chains were kept in place.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Viagra Tower : The Shaft (5.8)
By: smassey When: Feb 9, 2011

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Comments: On 2/9/2011, the LVCLC with support from the ASCA replaced one of the bolts on top of the tower with a 1/2x3.5". I would still recommend bringing a lot of extension material for this one.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Trophy Wall : Photo
By: smassey When: Jan 31, 2011

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Comments: Ah well, another thing to add to the to-do list. seems never-ending...


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Black Corridor : Crude Behavior (5.9)
By: smassey When: Jan 25, 2011

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Comments: This route has had the bolts recently replaced. 1/24/11 - I replaced the anchor with ASCA 1/2x3.75 w/ rings.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Black Corridor : Dancin' with a God (5.10a)
By: smassey When: Jan 25, 2011

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Comments: 1/24/11- The pro bolts were replaced with ASCA 1/2x2.75 SS. The anchors looked adequate.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Tiger Stripe Wall : Action by the Fraction (5.10c PG13)
By: smassey When: Jan 25, 2011

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Comments: 1/24/11 - The LVCLC/ASCA replaced the pro bolt and one of the anchor bolts with 1/2x2.75 SS, and added rings.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Tiger Stripe Wall : White Tigers (5.10b PG13)
By: smassey When: Jan 24, 2011

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Comments: 1/21/11 - the LVCLC/ASCA replaced the four pro bolts and the anchors with 1/2x2.75 SS and ring anchors. Despite somewhat fragile rock, this is a pretty decent route with some cool knobs in the runout middle section.


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