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Member Since: Dec 2, 2008
Last Visit: Oct 16, 2014
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Point Rank: # 1,752
Total Points: 342
Last Year: 2
Last 30 Days: 1
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has smassey been climbing?










Contributions


All 582 | Routes 11 | Areas | Photos 16 | Page Improvements | Comments 152 | Posts 392 | Stars 11 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Panty Wall : Panty Mime (5.10c)
By: smassey When: Jan 19, 2010

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Comments: On 1/19/10, the LVCLC placed mussy hooks (drop in rap anchors) on the glue-in anchor bolts. Any rap hardware that may have been here was missing, and there was a noticable degree of wear on the bolts(but not an unsafe amount). Please use these hooks to descend, and do not toprope or lower directly through the bolts. Enjoy!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Stratocaster Area : Footloose (5.11b)
By: smassey When: Jan 17, 2010

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Comments: agreed.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Kraft Boulders : Potato Chip : Full Traverse (V1-2)
By: smassey When: Jan 17, 2010

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Comments: thanks, captain obvious... but hey, ya know boulderers need pretty specific directions these days...


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Newcastle Crag
By: smassey When: Jan 15, 2010

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Comments: The missing TR anchor has been replaced as of 1/14.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Moderate Mecca : Fleet Street (5.8 R)
By: smassey When: Jan 12, 2010

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Comments: 1/12/10. The "bolts" have been replaced. There are now 3/8x3" w/ real hangers on this route. No new bolts were added, so it is still heads-up, but safe to fall on them... Anything I can do to help Save the Hot Climber Chicks...


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Moderate Mecca : Born To Bleed (5.10+ V2) : Photo
By: smassey When: Jan 11, 2010

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Comments: Should have gone there in the evening for better light, but ya get the idea...


Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Horseshoe Wall : Lady Wilson's Cleavage (5.9)
By: smassey When: Nov 17, 2009

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Comments: Highly Entertaining. Having not read Larry's book until after doing this, I too took the right-hand slab at the tree chimney. Seemed fine. 1 marginal stopper for pro. Also, was too tired to look too far for "easy scrambling", so just did the last short chimney to the top. By that time in the day, it felt 5.5ish. Descended First Creek, which is easy but long. Classic route. I thought the flora kind of added to the adventure aspect. Nothing like a good Cascades Belay to vary the muscle gr... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : The Hamlet
By: smassey When: Oct 23, 2009

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Comments: Thanks for the heads-up, Brian. That bolt has been pulled. It'll get replaced eventually. If folks are still interested in TRing this, just bring some more sling material and it can be equalized with one of the other anchors.
Also, the left anchor bolt on Sweets is a tad bit wiggly. It'll get replaced when I have time, but just a heads-up.
scott


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Test Tube (5.9)
By: smassey When: Oct 21, 2009

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Comments: Killer. Beautiful thin hands/hands on p1. Currently a nut anchor in place at the belay.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Spare Rib (5.8)
By: smassey When: Oct 21, 2009

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Comments: Really fun route. The lefthand belay bolt on pitch 2 is quite loose. It was not coming out of the hole, but wiggled about 1/2 inch. It can be backed up with a cordalette on the first bolt of p3, about 7' higher. It is a hanging stance, so that'd be a good idea.


Location: CO : Durango : Sailing Hawks : Pocket Change Boulder : Pocket Change (V3-) : Photo
By: smassey When: Aug 18, 2009

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Comments: Sweet shot, Ian. love the color contrast. good problem too.


Location: WA : Northwest Region : Bellingham Area : Julia's Outcrop (Governor L... : Smoke On the Water (5.11c)
By: smassey When: Jul 20, 2009

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Comments: This line may be one of the steepest in the B'ham area. The fp has been replaced with 3/8 SS, and the anchors are over the lip. As of 7/24, the third bolt protecting the crux is still original. caveat emptor... #1,3 c4 useful between the 2nd and 3rd bolt. don't know if they'll hold, but they might.


Location: WA : Northwest Region : Bellingham Area : Julia's Outcrop (Governor L... : Crystal Ship (5.8)
By: smassey When: Jul 19, 2009

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Comments: Fun Jug haul. The rap is from a small tree with dubious anchorage. Can be equalized with the top bolt for TR'ing. 4 bolts. This is the right-most route.


Location: WA : Northwest Region : Bellingham Area : Julia's Outcrop (Governor L... : Pink Medusa (5.6)
By: smassey When: Jul 19, 2009

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Comments: Fun. Not excessively undergraded... (unlike everything else). 3 bolts, anchor. Blue Metolius optional.


Location: WA : Northwest Region : Bellingham Area : Julia's Outcrop (Governor L... : Our Typhoon Rhythm (5.9-)
By: smassey When: Jul 19, 2009

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Comments: One of the best here. Take an orange Metolius, purple and red C4. exciting top moves. Chain anchor. This is the 5th route from left.


Location: WA : Northwest Region : Bellingham Area : Julia's Outcrop (Governor L... : Saffron Spider (5.9)
By: smassey When: Jul 19, 2009

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Comments: Great route! Fun thin face climbing. Takes a great yellow Metolius before the first bolt. 3 bolts, chain anchor. This is the 4th route from left. The first bolt on this route is shared with Our Typhoon Rhythm, Grog Supply, and Magic Cutlass.


Location: WA : Northwest Region : Bellingham Area : Julia's Outcrop (Governor L... : Grog Supply (5.8)
By: smassey When: Jul 7, 2009

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Comments: Chain anchor on top. Fun stemming. A little crumbly towards the top, but should clean up. This is the 6th route from left.


Location: WA : Northwest Region : Bellingham Area : Julia's Outcrop (Governor L... : Pale Young Eels (5.9)
By: smassey When: Jul 7, 2009

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Comments: Excellent route that now sports 3/8 SS in place of the second fp, a 1 1/2" LA. Some feel the start to be harder than 8+ (probably closer to 10b). 5 bolts total. Yellow Metolius helpful near the top.


Location: CO : Durango : Purple Cliffs
By: smassey When: Jul 6, 2009

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Comments: Good to know you're still at work ferreting out the chossiest climbable rock in the Dgo area. I would love to hear if anyone actually repeats this. BTW, Julia's Outcrop in b'ham is quite good.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Alcohol Wall : Rob Roy (5.10b)
By: smassey When: May 20, 2009

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Comments: As of 19 May, Anchor did have chains on it. Nice pull too. Thanks much to whoever put them up. Cheers.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Black Orpheus Amphitheater : There and Back Again (5.8)
By: smassey When: Apr 10, 2009

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Comments: Great route. Makes you think. When I climbed this in October 08, the rap descent was quite dangerous, as per the above comment. There were recent rockfall marks going almost directly down the rap line into the wash. Plan on walking off until further notice that this has been cleaned. If anyone knows the folks that were trundling just up-canyon from karate crack about three busy weekends ago, maybe they could pass this along, and do a little public service... jk.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Critic's Choice : Belly Full of Bad Berries (5.13a) : Photo
By: smassey When: Apr 3, 2009

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Comments: that's so hot. and stuff.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : The Misunderstanding (5.9)
By: smassey When: Apr 3, 2009

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Comments: kinda takes the fun out of it, doesn't it now?


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Armatron (5.9)
By: smassey When: Mar 24, 2009

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Comments: Re: continuing past the fourth pitch. 5th pitch is maybe 5.4 (not 5.7 as in the Handren guide), three bolts, gear anchor on Humerus Ledge. Either thrash through the cl4 holly up to the right, or do the 6th pitch up Humerus Tower. This is 5.5, two bolts (maybe three?) to a bolt anchor. A short cl3 downclimb leads one to an exposed cl3/4 scramble to the top of Brownstone Wall. Enjoy the view, then walk off to the north, via a cairned trail (some slab slithering required near the bottom).


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Jackrabbit Buttress : MysterZ (5.7)
By: smassey When: Mar 24, 2009

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Comments: If one headed for the obvious black crack above the 3rd class section (not trending left to the "nice finger crack"), they would find that it too goes at 5.7. A bit of slightly fragile face climbing deposits you in a nice finger to hand crack with a little bit of chimneying thrown in for good measure. Continue until you run out of rope with a 60m and build a hanging belay in a nice finger crack (.5, orange and yellow metolius, sm. wire). Run it out off this belay (fragile 5.6 for 25' )to link... more >>


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