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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Viagra Tower : Viagra Corner (5.6)
By: smassey When: Aug 31, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Said bolt still wiggles - will get around to replacing it one day. It can be backed up with a #3 C4, if i recall properly. If you clip the lone bolt on the way up (or down), it serves as a decent directional.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Viagra Tower : The Shaft (5.8)
By: smassey When: Aug 31, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bring lots of tat to TR this one. There are 2 bolts on top of the tower, which can be used to access the former 2-bolt anchor on the face. I pulled one of those out by hand at 2009 RRR. A decent TR, if you have the KSE to set it up.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Black Corridor : 757 2x4 (5.7)
By: smassey When: Aug 31, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of 08/29/10, there were new anchor bolts on this route w/ fixe double ring hangers. Don't know who put them in (K?), it wasn't me, but they seem in a great place and the rope pull is fine.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : The Fox Area : The Fox (5.10+)
By: smassey When: Aug 30, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: But if there were bolts up top we could all TR it into submission without having to think about setting up an anchor... then it would get as grooved up as anything in IC since most folks would be too lazy to properly extend their anchor. No Thanks. Great gear anchor, great walkoff. If a few more cams on the harness cause you to blow the send, train harder.
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Location: WA : Julia's Outcrop
By: smassey When: Jun 22, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: If folks are climbing here, beware the new third bolt on Smoke on the Water. It is placed in a large detached block by persons unknown. Also, that route is not completely bolted - see description for specifics.
It would be great if the person who placed the new bolts could PM me. It would be nice to finish rebolting the rest of this fun crag, but we should discuss proper bolt placement. Cheers, Scott
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Location: WA : Julia's Outcrop : Clicking Barnacles (5.9-)
By: smassey When: Jun 22, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: 3 bolts, anchor. Fun route that takes an optional .75 before the first bolt. This is the 11th route from the left, and 3rd from right.
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Location: WA : Julia's Outcrop : Magic Cutlass (5.10)
By: smassey When: Jun 22, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is the 7th route from left.
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Location: WA : Julia's Outcrop : Julia the Viking Queen (5.9)
By: smassey When: Jun 22, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is now sporting a new first bolt near the top of the flake - not placed by me. This is the 8th route from left.
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Location: WA : Julia's Outcrop : Pale Young Eels (5.10+)
By: smassey When: Jun 22, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: 6/22/10. there are slings and rings. The anchor is not currently set up well enough to put chains on, so these will have to do until the anchor gets updated. This is the 10th route from left, and 4th from right. It is the most obvious as the trail arrives at the crag.
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Location: WA : Julia's Outcrop : Oyster Odyssey (5.5)
By: smassey When: Jun 22, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Second route from the left.
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Location: WA : Julia's Outcrop : Pink Medusa (5.6)
By: smassey When: Jun 22, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The anchor is now two bolts and chain. For toproping, one may clip the old 1/4" up and left if so desired.
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Location: WA : Julia's Outcrop : Spawning Effort (5.10a/b)
By: smassey When: Jun 22, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is the 3rd route from the left.
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Location: WA : Julia's Outcrop : Smoke on the Water (5.11a)
By: smassey When: Jun 22, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of 6/22/10, Someone has added two 1/2" pro bolts to this route, one before the first bolt and one after the first bolt, as well as created an anchor at the (former) 2nd bolt. This is fine, since it creates a fun, short 5.8. However, the now 3rd bolt is placed in a large detached block, which I had avoided while beginning the rebolting process last summer. If said person would PM me, that would be great so we could work together to finish rebolting this route properly.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Moderate Mecca : Singing Love Pen (5.9) : Photo
By: smassey When: May 23, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, that's it. Not any worse than any other route at MM, some good jams over the lip if you can figure out the start. Protects fine once past the start. The righthand anchor bolt is a little wiggly and will be replaced when there's a chance, but it can be backed up with cams for toproping.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Moderate Mecca : Side Effects (5.10b)
By: smassey When: May 23, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: BTW, the bolt protecting the crux throw/figure four/A2 move is junk (ie, tolerable if you were in the Fisher towers). john, we should hit that one sometime before it cools down enough to climb here again.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Cannibal Crag
By: smassey When: May 20, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: On the page for Ma and Pa in Kettle is a picture of the ring bolt that was formerly "protecting" the upper section of that route. If anyone has specific info about that bolt, please post it. Thx.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Cannibal Crag : Ma and Pa Kettle (5.7)
By: smassey When: May 20, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Reading Steph's comment makes me shudder... If anyone knows what this bolt actually is, we'd love to know. (more to the point, why it would be considered legitimate protection...) It failed catastrophically after about 20 pulls with the funkness. 20 future falls?...
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Location: NV : Red Rock : White Rock Spring : Angel Food Wall : Purblind Pillar (5.8)
By: smassey When: May 17, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: It is quite easy to set up the p1 belay at the little rooflet about 20' below the "sling belay", thus skipping hanging from an uninspiring block. the stance is small, but adequate, and can be set up with a #2,3 camalot and a blue alien, or some combination thereof. As long as you are extending your placements properly, it doesn't add any significant rope drag to p2.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Horseshoe Wall : Dogma (5.11c)
By: smassey When: Apr 29, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: If anyone heads up to do this route, or rap down it, be prepared to leave a lot of tat(a few lengths of chain would be nice for one anchor). Most of the stations below Sherwood Forest are totally rotting or almost there. If someone is public service oriented, about 50' of static line would do it. Also, if anyone ever decides to replace the rusting bolts on this, please use stainless, since many of the lower bolts lie in runoff areas. 04/29/10
RE: Conditions. Until it snowed on us, the lower ... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Sandy Corridor : Chrysler Crack (5.9)
By: smassey When: Apr 19, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Takes gear from a 6 Camalot to a 5 Bro, plus a small wire or two if you want. Unless you want to wedge yourself in the crack and belay, bring a few blue and yellow metolius, maybe a .75 camalot.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Dark Shadows (5.8)
By: smassey When: Apr 19, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed the upper pitches after climbing Risky Business. After p4 of RB, traverse R on a ledge to a crack/chimney leading to the "hueco'd chimney" described in Handren. There is a chimney on the left and a hueco'd face and OW/handcrack on the right. righthand crack is easy, to a 1/4" rusty bolt, over a bulge. The "two-pin anchor" is a baby angle and a ring angle in a horizontal crack. As of 4/18, they do not have any sort of rap hardware on them, and can be hard to see if you are not looking... more >>
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Location: WA : Julia's Outcrop : Pale Young Eels (5.10+)
By: smassey When: Mar 1, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: apparently some cheap bastard has stolen my slings and rings. one can top out and sling the cluster of bushes to TR from, but it's kinda dirty.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Newcastle Crag : Mission Accomplished (5.8)
By: smassey When: Feb 11, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The missing TR bolt was replaced on 1/14/10.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Panty Wall : Silk Panties (5.7)
By: smassey When: Jan 19, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: At some point the steel quick-links were stolen by someone. Judging by the (minor) wear on the anchor bolts, it has been gone for some time. Please do not toprope or lower directly from the bolts. On 1/19/10, the LVCLC placed mussy hooks (drop-in rappel hardware) on the anchor. Please use these to descend, and toprope from your own anchor material. Enjoy!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Panty Wall : Panty Mime (5.10c)
By: smassey When: Jan 19, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: On 1/19/10, the LVCLC placed mussy hooks (drop in rap anchors) on the glue-in anchor bolts. Any rap hardware that may have been here was missing, and there was a noticable degree of wear on the bolts(but not an unsafe amount). Please use these hooks to descend, and do not toprope or lower directly through the bolts. Enjoy!
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