Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED


Member Since: Dec 2, 2008
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact smassey


Point Rank: # 1,668
Total Points: 372
Last Year: 32
Last 30 Days: 30
1 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has smassey been climbing?










Contributions


All 591 | Routes 11 | Areas | Photos 22 | Page Improvements | Comments 152 | Posts 395 | Stars 11 | Ratings
Page 7 of 24.  <<First   <Prev   5  6  7  8  9   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Horseshoe Wall : Dogma (5.11c)
By: smassey When: Apr 29, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: If anyone heads up to do this route, or rap down it, be prepared to leave a lot of tat(a few lengths of chain would be nice for one anchor). Most of the stations below Sherwood Forest are totally rotting or almost there. If someone is public service oriented, about 50' of static line would do it. Also, if anyone ever decides to replace the rusting bolts on this, please use stainless, since many of the lower bolts lie in runoff areas. 04/29/10
RE: Conditions. Until it snowed on us, the lower ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Sandy Corridor : Chrysler Crack (5.9)
By: smassey When: Apr 19, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Takes gear from a 6 Camalot to a 5 Bro, plus a small wire or two if you want. Unless you want to wedge yourself in the crack and belay, bring a few blue and yellow metolius, maybe a .75 camalot.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Dark Shadows (5.8)
By: smassey When: Apr 19, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Climbed the upper pitches after climbing Risky Business. After p4 of RB, traverse R on a ledge to a crack/chimney leading to the "hueco'd chimney" described in Handren. There is a chimney on the left and a hueco'd face and OW/handcrack on the right. righthand crack is easy, to a 1/4" rusty bolt, over a bulge. The "two-pin anchor" is a baby angle and a ring angle in a horizontal crack. As of 4/18, they do not have any sort of rap hardware on them, and can be hard to see if you are not looking... more >>


Location: WA : Northwest Region : Bellingham Area : Julia's Outcrop (Governor L... : Pale Young Eels (5.9)
By: smassey When: Mar 1, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: apparently some cheap bastard has stolen my slings and rings. one can top out and sling the cluster of bushes to TR from, but it's kinda dirty.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Newcastle Crag : Mission Accomplished (5.8)
By: smassey When: Feb 11, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: The missing TR bolt was replaced on 1/14/10.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Panty Wall : Silk Panties (5.7)
By: smassey When: Jan 19, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: At some point the steel quick-links were stolen by someone. Judging by the (minor) wear on the anchor bolts, it has been gone for some time. Please do not toprope or lower directly from the bolts. On 1/19/10, the LVCLC placed mussy hooks (drop-in rappel hardware) on the anchor. Please use these to descend, and toprope from your own anchor material. Enjoy!


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Panty Wall : Panty Mime (5.10c)
By: smassey When: Jan 19, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: On 1/19/10, the LVCLC placed mussy hooks (drop in rap anchors) on the glue-in anchor bolts. Any rap hardware that may have been here was missing, and there was a noticable degree of wear on the bolts(but not an unsafe amount). Please use these hooks to descend, and do not toprope or lower directly through the bolts. Enjoy!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Stratocaster Area : Footloose (5.11b)
By: smassey When: Jan 17, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: agreed.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Kraft Boulders : Potato Chip : Full Traverse (V1-2)
By: smassey When: Jan 17, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: thanks, captain obvious... but hey, ya know boulderers need pretty specific directions these days...


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Newcastle Crag
By: smassey When: Jan 15, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: The missing TR anchor has been replaced as of 1/14.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Moderate Mecca : Fleet Street (5.8 R)
By: smassey When: Jan 12, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: 1/12/10. The "bolts" have been replaced. There are now 3/8x3" w/ real hangers on this route. No new bolts were added, so it is still heads-up, but safe to fall on them... Anything I can do to help Save the Hot Climber Chicks...


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Moderate Mecca : Born To Bleed (5.10+ V2) : Photo
By: smassey When: Jan 11, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Should have gone there in the evening for better light, but ya get the idea...


Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Horseshoe Wall : Lady Wilson's Cleavage (5.9)
By: smassey When: Nov 17, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Highly Entertaining. Having not read Larry's book until after doing this, I too took the right-hand slab at the tree chimney. Seemed fine. 1 marginal stopper for pro. Also, was too tired to look too far for "easy scrambling", so just did the last short chimney to the top. By that time in the day, it felt 5.5ish. Descended First Creek, which is easy but long. Classic route. I thought the flora kind of added to the adventure aspect. Nothing like a good Cascades Belay to vary the muscle gr... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : The Hamlet
By: smassey When: Oct 23, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks for the heads-up, Brian. That bolt has been pulled. It'll get replaced eventually. If folks are still interested in TRing this, just bring some more sling material and it can be equalized with one of the other anchors.
Also, the left anchor bolt on Sweets is a tad bit wiggly. It'll get replaced when I have time, but just a heads-up.
scott


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Test Tube (5.9)
By: smassey When: Oct 21, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Killer. Beautiful thin hands/hands on p1. Currently a nut anchor in place at the belay.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Spare Rib (5.8)
By: smassey When: Oct 21, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Really fun route. The lefthand belay bolt on pitch 2 is quite loose. It was not coming out of the hole, but wiggled about 1/2 inch. It can be backed up with a cordalette on the first bolt of p3, about 7' higher. It is a hanging stance, so that'd be a good idea.


Location: CO : Durango : Sailing Hawks : Pocket Change Boulder : Pocket Change (V3-) : Photo
By: smassey When: Aug 18, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Sweet shot, Ian. love the color contrast. good problem too.


Location: WA : Northwest Region : Bellingham Area : Julia's Outcrop (Governor L... : Smoke On the Water (5.11c)
By: smassey When: Jul 20, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: This line may be one of the steepest in the B'ham area. The fp has been replaced with 3/8 SS, and the anchors are over the lip. As of 7/24, the third bolt protecting the crux is still original. caveat emptor... #1,3 c4 useful between the 2nd and 3rd bolt. don't know if they'll hold, but they might.


Location: WA : Northwest Region : Bellingham Area : Julia's Outcrop (Governor L... : Crystal Ship (5.8)
By: smassey When: Jul 19, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Fun Jug haul. The rap is from a small tree with dubious anchorage. Can be equalized with the top bolt for TR'ing. 4 bolts. This is the right-most route.


Location: WA : Northwest Region : Bellingham Area : Julia's Outcrop (Governor L... : Pink Medusa (5.6)
By: smassey When: Jul 19, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Fun. Not excessively undergraded... (unlike everything else). 3 bolts, anchor. Blue Metolius optional.


Location: WA : Northwest Region : Bellingham Area : Julia's Outcrop (Governor L... : Our Typhoon Rhythm (5.9-)
By: smassey When: Jul 19, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: One of the best here. Take an orange Metolius, purple and red C4. exciting top moves. Chain anchor. This is the 5th route from left.


Location: WA : Northwest Region : Bellingham Area : Julia's Outcrop (Governor L... : Saffron Spider (5.9)
By: smassey When: Jul 19, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Great route! Fun thin face climbing. Takes a great yellow Metolius before the first bolt. 3 bolts, chain anchor. This is the 4th route from left. The first bolt on this route is shared with Our Typhoon Rhythm, Grog Supply, and Magic Cutlass.


Location: WA : Northwest Region : Bellingham Area : Julia's Outcrop (Governor L... : Grog Supply (5.8)
By: smassey When: Jul 7, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Chain anchor on top. Fun stemming. A little crumbly towards the top, but should clean up. This is the 6th route from left.


Location: WA : Northwest Region : Bellingham Area : Julia's Outcrop (Governor L... : Pale Young Eels (5.9)
By: smassey When: Jul 7, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Excellent route that now sports 3/8 SS in place of the second fp, a 1 1/2" LA. Some feel the start to be harder than 8+ (probably closer to 10b). 5 bolts total. Yellow Metolius helpful near the top.


Location: CO : Durango : Purple Cliffs
By: smassey When: Jul 6, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Good to know you're still at work ferreting out the chossiest climbable rock in the Dgo area. I would love to hear if anyone actually repeats this. BTW, Julia's Outcrop in b'ham is quite good.


Page 7 of 24.  <<First   <Prev   5  6  7  8  9   Next>   Last>>