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Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Stratocaster Area : Footloose (5.11b)
By: smassey When: Jan 17, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: agreed.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Kraft Boulders : Potato Chip : Full Traverse (V1-2)
By: smassey When: Jan 17, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: thanks, captain obvious... but hey, ya know boulderers need pretty specific directions these days...
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Newcastle Crag
By: smassey When: Jan 15, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The missing TR anchor has been replaced as of 1/14.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Moderate Mecca : Fleet Street (5.8 R)
By: smassey When: Jan 12, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: 1/12/10. The "bolts" have been replaced. There are now 3/8x3" w/ real hangers on this route. No new bolts were added, so it is still heads-up, but safe to fall on them... Anything I can do to help Save the Hot Climber Chicks...
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Moderate Mecca : Born To Bleed (5.10+ V2) : Photo
By: smassey When: Jan 11, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Should have gone there in the evening for better light, but ya get the idea...
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Horseshoe Wall : Lady Wilson's Cleavage (5.9)
By: smassey When: Nov 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Highly Entertaining. Having not read Larry's book until after doing this, I too took the right-hand slab at the tree chimney. Seemed fine. 1 marginal stopper for pro. Also, was too tired to look too far for "easy scrambling", so just did the last short chimney to the top. By that time in the day, it felt 5.5ish. Descended First Creek, which is easy but long. Classic route. I thought the flora kind of added to the adventure aspect. Nothing like a good Cascades Belay to vary the muscle gr... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : The Hamlet
By: smassey When: Oct 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for the heads-up, Brian. That bolt has been pulled. It'll get replaced eventually. If folks are still interested in TRing this, just bring some more sling material and it can be equalized with one of the other anchors.
Also, the left anchor bolt on Sweets is a tad bit wiggly. It'll get replaced when I have time, but just a heads-up.
scott
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Test Tube (5.9)
By: smassey When: Oct 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Killer. Beautiful thin hands/hands on p1. Currently a nut anchor in place at the belay.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Spare Rib (5.8)
By: smassey When: Oct 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really fun route. The lefthand belay bolt on pitch 2 is quite loose. It was not coming out of the hole, but wiggled about 1/2 inch. It can be backed up with a cordalette on the first bolt of p3, about 7' higher. It is a hanging stance, so that'd be a good idea.
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Location: CO : Durango : Sailing Hawks : Pocket Change Boulder : Pocket Change (V3-) : Photo
By: smassey When: Aug 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sweet shot, Ian. love the color contrast. good problem too.
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Location: WA : Julia's Outcrop : Smoke on the Water (5.11a)
By: smassey When: Jul 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This line may be one of the steepest in the B'ham area. The fp has been replaced with 3/8 SS, and the anchors are over the lip. As of 7/24, the third bolt protecting the crux is still original. caveat emptor... #1,3 c4 useful between the 2nd and 3rd bolt. don't know if they'll hold, but they might.
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Location: WA : Julia's Outcrop
By: smassey When: Jul 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Surprisingly decent climbing. Kind of thought-provoking movement. A good stop if you're in the area. Also, if the folks using it could pack out their cigarette butts, that'd be great.
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Location: WA : Julia's Outcrop : The Crystal Ship (5.8-)
By: smassey When: Jul 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun Jug haul. The rap is from a small tree with dubious anchorage. Can be equalized with the top bolt for TR'ing. 4 bolts. This is the right-most route.
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Location: WA : Julia's Outcrop : Pink Medusa (5.6)
By: smassey When: Jul 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun. Not excessively undergraded... (unlike everything else). 3 bolts, anchor. Blue Metolius optional.
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Location: WA : Julia's Outcrop : Our Typhoon Rythm (5.9-)
By: smassey When: Jul 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the best here. Take an orange Metolius, purple and red C4. exciting top moves. Chain anchor. This is the 5th route from left.
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Location: WA : Julia's Outcrop : Saffron Spider (5.9)
By: smassey When: Jul 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route! Fun thin face climbing. Takes a great yellow Metolius before the first bolt. 3 bolts, chain anchor. This is the 4th route from left. The first bolt on this route is shared with Our Typhoon Rhythm, Grog Supply, and Magic Cutlass.
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Location: WA : Julia's Outcrop : Grog Supply (5.8)
By: smassey When: Jul 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Chain anchor on top. Fun stemming. A little crumbly towards the top, but should clean up. This is the 6th route from left.
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Location: WA : Julia's Outcrop : Pale Young Eels (5.10+)
By: smassey When: Jul 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent route that now sports 3/8 SS in place of the second fp, a 1 1/2" LA. Some feel the start to be harder than 8+ (probably closer to 10b). 5 bolts total. Yellow Metolius helpful near the top.
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Location: CO : Durango : Purple Cliffs
By: smassey When: Jul 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good to know you're still at work ferreting out the chossiest climbable rock in the Dgo area. I would love to hear if anyone actually repeats this. BTW, Julia's Outcrop in b'ham is quite good.
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Location: WA : Julia's Outcrop
By: smassey When: Jul 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There will be a little anchor replacement going on here this summer. If anyone actually climbs here, any donations towards hardware would be appreciated. Feel free to drop them at the AAI shop.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Alcohol Wall : Rob Roy (5.10b)
By: smassey When: May 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of 19 May, Anchor did have chains on it. Nice pull too. Thanks much to whoever put them up. Cheers.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Black Orpheus Amphitheater : There and Back Again (5.8)
By: smassey When: Apr 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route. Makes you think. When I climbed this in October 08, the rap descent was quite dangerous, as per the above comment. There were recent rockfall marks going almost directly down the rap line into the wash. Plan on walking off until further notice that this has been cleaned. If anyone knows the folks that were trundling just up-canyon from karate crack about three busy weekends ago, maybe they could pass this along, and do a little public service... jk.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Critic's Choice : Belly Full of Bad Berries (5.13a) : Photo
By: smassey When: Apr 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: that's so hot. and stuff.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : The Misunderstanding (5.9)
By: smassey When: Apr 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: kinda takes the fun out of it, doesn't it now?
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Armatron (5.9)
By: smassey When: Mar 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Re: continuing past the fourth pitch. 5th pitch is maybe 5.4 (not 5.7 as in the Handren guide), three bolts, gear anchor on Humerus Ledge. Either thrash through the cl4 holly up to the right, or do the 6th pitch up Humerus Tower. This is 5.5, two bolts (maybe three?) to a bolt anchor. A short cl3 downclimb leads one to an exposed cl3/4 scramble to the top of Brownstone Wall. Enjoy the view, then walk off to the north, via a cairned trail (some slab slithering required near the bottom).
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