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Member Since: Dec 2, 2008
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact smassey


Point Rank: # 1,668
Total Points: 372
Last Year: 32
Last 30 Days: 30
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has smassey been climbing?










Contributions


All 591 | Routes 11 | Areas | Photos 22 | Page Improvements | Comments 152 | Posts 395 | Stars 11 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Moderate Mecca : Carpetbagger (5.6)
By: smassey When: Nov 1, 2010

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Comments: On 1 November 2010, the LVCLC/ASCA replaced the anchor, once a 1.75" rawl with one of Swain's whackjob coldshuts and a half-hanging out drilled angle, with 1/2x3.75" bolts w/ fixe chains. They were moved a bit lower due to, guess what, rock quality concerns.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Moderate Mecca : Singing Love Pen (5.9)
By: smassey When: Nov 1, 2010

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Comments: Actually minorly entertaining. On 1 Nov. 2010, the LVCLC/ASCA replaced the anchor with 1/2x3.75" bolts and Fixe chain anchors.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Moderate Mecca : Is It Soup Yet (5.10b)
By: smassey When: Nov 1, 2010

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Comments: On 1 November 2010, the LVCLC, with hardware from ASCA, who makes all things possible, replaced the anchor and the pro bolt on this route with 1/2 x 2.75" Stainless. The pro bolt was moved left about 2' due to rock quality concerns. ie, the original 1.75" bolt was in a hollow flake. Typical.


Location: NV : Red Rock : White Rock Spring : Angel Food Wall : Rebel Within (5.9) : Photo
By: smassey When: Nov 1, 2010

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Comments: Long live Hank as a constant source of musical inspiration and something to put on the juke in random cowtowns. And Vegas.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Panty Wall : The Last Panty (5.7)
By: smassey When: Oct 20, 2010

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Comments: This is actually the second-most route from the right. Silk Panties is the right-most route, with the glue-in bolts. The anchors on this route are a bit far back, and a cordalette is handy for extending them down enough to prevent major rope drag.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Y2K (5.10a)
By: smassey When: Sep 8, 2010

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Comments: The p1 anchors are 3/8, but are threaded through the chains, which seems typical of the FA party. Would be a great place for 2 fatty stainless about 6" higher. also, a 7 HB is the $$ piece for the last pitch.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Cat in the Hat (5.6)
By: smassey When: Sep 8, 2010

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Comments: The upper section is worth doing for a complete ascent to the top of Mescalito. From the top of the 6th pitch, scramble/simul up some 4th class terrain, trending slightly right after about 3-400'. Follow a faint trail up to the col at the top, below the red chimney. Climb the chimney, 5.7 squeeze and either exit onto the left face or continue up the chimney. Pro is sporadic on the face, but the climbing is fun. There is a bolted anchor at the top of the face with slings and rings. From the... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Viagra Tower : ZigZag (5.6)
By: smassey When: Aug 31, 2010

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Comments: Bolted anchor; easy to access.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Viagra Tower : Woofers (5.8)
By: smassey When: Aug 31, 2010

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Comments: Shares anchor with Winger. The directional bolt to skiers R serves to keep the rope in line with route.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Viagra Tower : Winger (5.6)
By: smassey When: Aug 31, 2010

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Comments: Anchor bolts only. 3rd class downclimb with some exposure to get to them.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Viagra Tower : Viagra Corner (5.6)
By: smassey When: Aug 31, 2010

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Comments: Said bolt still wiggles - will get around to replacing it one day. It can be backed up with a #3 C4, if i recall properly. If you clip the lone bolt on the way up (or down), it serves as a decent directional.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Viagra Tower : The Shaft (5.8)
By: smassey When: Aug 31, 2010

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Comments: Bring lots of tat to TR this one. There are 2 bolts on top of the tower, which can be used to access the former 2-bolt anchor on the face. I pulled one of those out by hand at 2009 RRR. A decent TR, if you have the KSE to set it up.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Black Corridor : 757 2x4 (5.7)
By: smassey When: Aug 31, 2010

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Comments: As of 08/29/10, there were new anchor bolts on this route w/ fixe double ring hangers. Don't know who put them in (K?), it wasn't me, but they seem in a great place and the rope pull is fine.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : The Fox Area : The Fox (5.10+)
By: smassey When: Aug 30, 2010

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Comments: But if there were bolts up top we could all TR it into submission without having to think about setting up an anchor... then it would get as grooved up as anything in IC since most folks would be too lazy to properly extend their anchor. No Thanks. Great gear anchor, great walkoff. If a few more cams on the harness cause you to blow the send, train harder.


Location: WA : Northwest Region : Bellingham Area : Julia's Outcrop (Governor L...
By: smassey When: Jun 22, 2010

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Comments: If folks are climbing here, beware the new third bolt on Smoke on the Water. It is placed in a large detached block by persons unknown. Also, that route is not completely bolted - see description for specifics.
It would be great if the person who placed the new bolts could PM me. It would be nice to finish rebolting the rest of this fun crag, but we should discuss proper bolt placement. Cheers, Scott


Location: WA : Northwest Region : Bellingham Area : Julia's Outcrop (Governor L... : Clicking Barnacles (5.9)
By: smassey When: Jun 22, 2010

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Comments: 3 bolts, anchor. Fun route that takes an optional .75 before the first bolt. This is the 11th route from the left, and 3rd from right.


Location: WA : Northwest Region : Bellingham Area : Julia's Outcrop (Governor L... : Magic Cutlass (5.10)
By: smassey When: Jun 22, 2010

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Comments: This is the 7th route from left.


Location: WA : Northwest Region : Bellingham Area : Julia's Outcrop (Governor L... : Julia the Viking Queen (5.9)
By: smassey When: Jun 22, 2010

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Comments: This is now sporting a new first bolt near the top of the flake - not placed by me. This is the 8th route from left.


Location: WA : Northwest Region : Bellingham Area : Julia's Outcrop (Governor L... : Pale Young Eels (5.9)
By: smassey When: Jun 22, 2010

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Comments: 6/22/10. there are slings and rings. The anchor is not currently set up well enough to put chains on, so these will have to do until the anchor gets updated. This is the 10th route from left, and 4th from right. It is the most obvious as the trail arrives at the crag.


Location: WA : Northwest Region : Bellingham Area : Julia's Outcrop (Governor L... : Pink Medusa (5.6)
By: smassey When: Jun 22, 2010

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Comments: The anchor is now two bolts and chain. For toproping, one may clip the old 1/4" up and left if so desired.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Moderate Mecca : Singing Love Pen (5.9) : Photo
By: smassey When: May 23, 2010

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Comments: Yeah, that's it. Not any worse than any other route at MM, some good jams over the lip if you can figure out the start. Protects fine once past the start. The righthand anchor bolt is a little wiggly and will be replaced when there's a chance, but it can be backed up with cams for toproping.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Moderate Mecca : Side Effects (5.10b)
By: smassey When: May 23, 2010

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Comments: BTW, the bolt protecting the crux throw/figure four/A2 move is junk (ie, tolerable if you were in the Fisher towers). john, we should hit that one sometime before it cools down enough to climb here again.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Cannibal Crag
By: smassey When: May 20, 2010

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Comments: On the page for Ma and Pa in Kettle is a picture of the ring bolt that was formerly "protecting" the upper section of that route. If anyone has specific info about that bolt, please post it. Thx.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Cannibal Crag : Ma and Pa Kettle (5.7)
By: smassey When: May 20, 2010

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Comments: Reading Steph's comment makes me shudder... If anyone knows what this bolt actually is, we'd love to know. (more to the point, why it would be considered legitimate protection...) It failed catastrophically after about 20 pulls with the funkness. 20 future falls?...


Location: NV : Red Rock : White Rock Spring : Angel Food Wall : Purblind Pillar (5.8)
By: smassey When: May 17, 2010

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Comments: It is quite easy to set up the p1 belay at the little rooflet about 20' below the "sling belay", thus skipping hanging from an uninspiring block. the stance is small, but adequate, and can be set up with a #2,3 camalot and a blue alien, or some combination thereof. As long as you are extending your placements properly, it doesn't add any significant rope drag to p2.


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