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Member Since: Dec 2, 2008
Last Visit: 14 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 1,666
Total Points: 372
Last Year: 32
Last 30 Days: 30
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has smassey been climbing?










Contributions


All 591 | Routes 11 | Areas | Photos 22 | Page Improvements | Comments 152 | Posts 395 | Stars 11 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Lower Tier : Certain Air (5.10b/c)
By: smassey When: Feb 16, 2011

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Comments: I second Xavier. The route lives up to its name, with the potential for falling due to breaking rock a high possibility. The gear is adequate. If doing this route, my advice would be to end the third pitch at the obvious ledge, with the best anchor on the route. Rather than continuing to the top of the buttress to access the final Horndog crack, go up slightly off the ledge and traverse into the Horndog crack. A 60m will just make it to good anchor potential with proper use of runners.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Lower Tier : Solar Slab Gully (5.3)
By: smassey When: Feb 16, 2011

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Comments: On 2/15/11, the LVCLC with support from the ASCA replaced the wiggling first pitch anchor bolts. The new bolts are 1 ea. 3/8x2.25, 3/8x3 SS. They were moved about two feet higher due to stance and rock quality concerns, actually improving the rope pull on the way down. Also replaced was one of the pitch .5 anchors (last rappel with a single rope) with a 3.8x2.25 SS. The remaining bolt is a decent 5/16 stud.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Viagra Tower : Viagra Corner (5.6)
By: smassey When: Feb 9, 2011

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Comments: 02/09/2011 - The LVCLC with support from the ASCA replaced the anchor on this route with two 1/2x3.5". The original chains were kept in place.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Viagra Tower : The Shaft (5.8)
By: smassey When: Feb 9, 2011

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Comments: On 2/9/2011, the LVCLC with support from the ASCA replaced one of the bolts on top of the tower with a 1/2x3.5". I would still recommend bringing a lot of extension material for this one.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Trophy Wall : Photo
By: smassey When: Jan 31, 2011

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Comments: Ah well, another thing to add to the to-do list. seems never-ending...


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Black Corridor : Crude Behavior (5.9)
By: smassey When: Jan 25, 2011

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Comments: This route has had the bolts recently replaced. 1/24/11 - I replaced the anchor with ASCA 1/2x3.75 w/ rings.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Black Corridor : Dancin' with a God (5.10a)
By: smassey When: Jan 25, 2011

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Comments: 1/24/11- The pro bolts were replaced with ASCA 1/2x2.75 SS. The anchors looked adequate.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Tiger Stripe Wall : Action by the Fraction (5.10c PG13)
By: smassey When: Jan 25, 2011

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Comments: 1/24/11 - The LVCLC/ASCA replaced the pro bolt and one of the anchor bolts with 1/2x2.75 SS, and added rings.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Tiger Stripe Wall : White Tigers (5.10b PG13)
By: smassey When: Jan 24, 2011

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Comments: 1/21/11 - the LVCLC/ASCA replaced the four pro bolts and the anchors with 1/2x2.75 SS and ring anchors. Despite somewhat fragile rock, this is a pretty decent route with some cool knobs in the runout middle section.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Panty Wall : Edible Panties (5.10- X)
By: smassey When: Jan 24, 2011

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Comments: 1/21/11 - the LVCLC/ASCA replaced the only mildly manky shuts with 1/2x2.75 SS and Fixe double ring hangers.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : White Slab
By: smassey When: Dec 29, 2010

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Comments: Thanks for the heads-up. If whoever removed them would please contact me or the LVCLC, that'd be great.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : White Slab : Guides Wall 3 (5.8)
By: smassey When: Dec 29, 2010

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Comments: More likely, people have been climbing on it since the recent rains, and broke off holds. Just because it's dry to the touch doesn't mean it's dry.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Moderate Mecca : Fleet Street (5.8 R)
By: smassey When: Dec 29, 2010

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Comments: I thought the bolts were right where they were needed. The route appears to have been bolted on lead for the FA, since both bolts are at stances. If you were to fall at the crux, the first bolt will be at your knee level. I though this route was a much more memorable experience than say, the 8's at the Panty Wall. If you're adept at placing gear, and don't climb when the rock is wet, adequate gear can be had to protect the moves to the first bolt. Not everything needs to be a rap-bolted spo... more >>


Location: kirra : anomalistic : Photo
By: smassey When: Dec 23, 2010

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Comments: Not everything has to last forever.


Location: kirra : hot-partners good times : Photo
By: smassey When: Dec 23, 2010

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Comments: We must be doing something wrong when Bdr is more rowdy than Vegas. Or maybe it's their repressed libertarianism...
Definitely boulder though - in Vegas that would've been shaved...


Location: CO : Durango : Horse Gulch
By: smassey When: Dec 10, 2010

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Comments: Matthias, I'd rather be climbing the choss you put up than doing the umpteenth lap on socially acceptable choss at The Golf Wall. Funny how choss is a matter of perspective. The guidebook to Rifle starts out with saying "Rifle is truly a pile", or something to that effect. To all the haters: If you don't like choss, leave the San Juans - you're out of your element; go sport climbing somewhere. If you don't mind a little adventure, enjoy it for what it is.

BTW, thanks for postin... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Cat in the Hat (5.6)
By: smassey When: Dec 2, 2010

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Comments: Apparently someone decided to restore it to it's original state around the top of the block. It can be backed up with a red camalot, if you're worried. Since a leader fall on the traverse pitch would produce a downward pull, you're not going to lift off the slings. Also unlikely that a leader fall on Rabbit's Arete would jerk someone up enough to pull the slings off. The slings up higher serve as a much better belay station anyway. Since most folks prefer redundant anchors, with the slings ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : White Slab
By: smassey When: Nov 22, 2010

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Comments: As of 11/22/10, all the anchors in this area are solid or have been replaced with ASCA hardware. There is an anchor bolt on the top ledge that can be used to access most of the anchors for TR'ing. There is another anchor to the right of White Slab on which I also replaced the missing bolt.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : White Slab : White Slab (5.8 PG13)
By: smassey When: Nov 22, 2010

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Comments: Or Ben, you could TR on your own slings, which you should be doing anyway, then top out and rap off another anchor. A moot point, as the anchor has rap hardware now. The strangely drilled anchor bolts on this appear to be solid. They had Petzl quiklinks, to which I added ASCA rings.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : White Slab : Guides Wall 2 (5.8)
By: smassey When: Nov 22, 2010

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Comments: On 11/22/10, the loose bolt was replaced with an ASCA 1/2x3.75. The current placement of the chain should equalize it better for rappelling. There is also an anchor bolt (1/2x2.75SS) at the top of the ledge that can be used to protect youself while getting to most of these anchors.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : White Slab : Fender Bender (5.6)
By: smassey When: Nov 22, 2010

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Comments: On 11/22/10, the anchors were replaced on this route with ASCA 1/2x3.75 w/ rings. The established anchor was set up in such a way that it was loosening the bolts and wearing out their placements.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Panty Wall
By: smassey When: Nov 10, 2010

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Comments: I guide there quite a bit as well, and often anchor my clients, since some of them are also uncomfortable with their positioning on that ledge. A #3 C4 is more than adequate to anchor a belayer to on the three right-hand routes. If that does not feel adequate, more gear can be had, or the use of a stick-clip recommended. As Mr. Burt stated, this is not an area that needs retro-belayer-anchors.


Location: Colorado : Jam out with your clam out ... : Post : Photo
By: smassey When: Nov 8, 2010

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Comments: There are few problems that some Black Seal and 6mm won't fix.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Black Corridor : Lewd, Crude, and Misconstru... (5.9+)
By: smassey When: Nov 8, 2010

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Comments: All the pro bolts have been replaced with 3.75 x 1/2. the second bolt was moved down and left due to rock quality and clipping concerns, as expressed in the above posts. The anchor has not yet been replaced.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Black Corridor : Texas Lite Sweet (5.11a/b)
By: smassey When: Nov 8, 2010

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Comments: This route has been entirely rebolted with 3.75 x 1/2". Proper ring anchors, as well. Thanks to ASCA for the hardware.


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