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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Cat in the Hat (5.6)
By: smassey When: Jan 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: And this provides more clear information than the previous descriptions how??? Glad you had a good time!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Crimson Chrysalis (5.8+)
By: smassey When: Jan 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: it is widely acknowledged that the Brock book sucks ass, at least in terms of useful information. I'd trust the MP descriptions, or just buy Jerry Handren's guidebook. Just sayin'...
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Tango Towers : Crawford's Corner (5.10+ PG13)
By: smassey When: Nov 14, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Was that as civil as it looked? I think history has been made...
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Location: NV : Lone Mountain : La Madre (South) : Urban Crag
By: smassey When: Nov 7, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I believe Leo Henson added quite a few routes to both crags. New topos are available at Desert Rock Sports.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Ragged Edges Area : The Nightman Cometh (5.9)
By: smassey When: Oct 22, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Kinda sounds like another route here, Gettin Too old for this S--t. I did that with a client a year ago, but wasn't sure if it had been done before. Did Some Punter go slightly left and through the water streak at the top? if so, when, so one of us can modify our route description accordingly. i like your route name, though.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : J + J Swerve (5.10-)
By: smassey When: Oct 11, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: yeah, big john! gettin it done! sounds like fun!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Romper Room : Kindergarten Cop (5.7+)
By: smassey When: Oct 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Duly noted, Alex. We'll try and get around to replacing the bolts at some point.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : The Hamlet
By: smassey When: Sep 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is all pretty funny! I'm always worried about rock quality at the Hamlet, both macro and micro, when I climb there. It's kind of a chossy crag, but it's fun beginner climbing, and it serves a purpose. Obviously the approach to my new routes is more dangerous than the routes themselves - climbers should use their judgement on whether to rope up before they get to the line of bolts. Killis, my routes were put up with a legitimate hardware source, but thanks for climbin' them and makin' su... more >>
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Location: WA : Bellingham Area Climbing : Governor Lister Cliffs (a.... : Smoke On the Water (5.11c)
By: smassey When: Sep 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Well, this is just about finished re-equipping. The former 3rd bolt in a loose block was removed (not by me). If someone wants to sling some static line through the pinch above the first anchor, that'd be fine with me. I haven't had time. As it stands, clip 2 bolts, then the lower anchor, then sling the pinch, commit to the undercling, clipping an awkward new 1/2x5" SS bolt (rock quality dictated the placement), to good shake, clip new 1/2x 2.75" SS, to the jug, one last bolt, then the slopi... more >>
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Location: WA : Mount Erie : Main Wall
By: smassey When: Sep 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Summer 2011 some more bolt replacement occurred here. In addition to Frogs, the route to the right of it had the 4 pro bolts replaced, as well as the anchor (now Fixe double-rings). Also, the 5th bolted route right of zigzag had all 7 pro bolts and the anchor replaced. The route two to the right of that also had the anchor replaced.
All new hardware was provided by the ASCA. 1/2"x2.75" Stainless Powers 5-piece with Fixe hangers or double-ring hangers for anchors. This stuff is expensive, ... more >>
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Location: WA : Mount Erie : Main Wall : Frogs in Space (5.11b)
By: smassey When: Sep 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Aug 2011, the ASCA replaced the first three bolts on this route with 1/2x2.75" SS. The fourth is in decent shape. The third was actually broken in the hole, and was held in by two threads...
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Location: WA : Leavenworth : Icicle Creek : 8-Mile Rock : Twin Cracks (5.8)
By: smassey When: Sep 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: On 31 August 2011, the ASCA replaced the anchor with two 1/2x2.75" SS 5-piece bolts and double-ring Fixe hangers. The old anchor was a 1/4" buttonhead w/ leeper hanger, and what appeared to be a new, but spinning, 5/8 5-piece. Upon unscrewing it with my hands, it was discovered to be a rivet - basically a 5/8 machine bolt pounded into the hole... The new anchor doesn't suck.
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Location: WA : Leavenworth : Icicle Creek : 8-Mile Rock : Classic Crack (5.8+)
By: smassey When: Sep 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: On 31 August 2011, the ASCA replaced the anchor with two 1/2x2.75" SS 5-piece bolts. Hangers and chain are camo'd. The old anchor took very little force to remove.
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Location: WA : Mount Erie : Powerline Wall West
By: smassey When: Aug 24, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of August 2011, all the bolts in this wall are new, or new-ish. There has been some replacement work in the (recent?) past with nice-looking stud bolts, and recently with ASCA 1/2x2.75" Powers SS. The 10a on the far right side had one of the anchor bolts replaced (the originals were too far apart, with only a single link on each - it was loosening the lefthand bolt). The anchor was fitted with SS 3/8 quicklinks and rap rings. The 5.7+ to the right of that had pro bolts 2 and 4 replaced. ... more >>
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Location: WA : Mount Erie : Powerline Wall West : Terminator (5.10a/b)
By: smassey When: Jul 29, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Recently the ASCA replaced bolts 2-5 with 1/2x2.75" SS. The first bolt is new looking, and the last is a funky-looking glue-in. The anchors were also replaced and have mussy hooks on them for lowering.
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Location: WA : Mount Erie : Powerline Wall West : Intimidator (5.10a)
By: smassey When: Jul 29, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: About a week ago, the ASCA replaced pro bolts 1-5 and 7 with 1/2"x2.75" SS 5-piece. Bolt 6 was a newer looking stud. The ancient rusting anchor was removed. The current anchor are new-looking studs with Metolius rap hangers. Bolt 7 was moved slightly up and left due to rock quality concerns (the old buttonhead was in a hollow flake that is approx. 3' square).
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Location: WA : North Cascades : Washington Pass : Le Petit Cheval : Spontaneity Arete (5.7) : Photo
By: smassey When: Jul 28, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dude- you really had your way with that route, eh?
BTW, it's rapping. If you didn't notice...
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Meetup Wall
By: smassey When: May 28, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good addition to Red Rock. Nice work, Dan and Co. How does your grading compare to the Hamlet or Panty Wall?
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Meetup Wall : No Teaching! (5.7)
By: smassey When: May 28, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route name! haha.
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Location: WA : Bellingham Area Climbing
By: smassey When: May 18, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hmm, interesting. We should chat over a beer sometime when I'm up there.
I figured it was State Park land, but have always kept a low profile when going there anyway, especially re: the entrance to the trail. Thanks for doing the research.
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Location: WA : Bellingham Area Climbing
By: smassey When: May 15, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Duly noted, sir. Probably a good reason to keep the hand-drilling to a minimum. Thx for the beta.
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Location: WA : Bellingham Area Climbing : Governor Lister Cliffs (a....
By: smassey When: May 9, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't mind updating beta. If you and the other lads can figure out how it should be handled administratively, I'll post some more pix, as I can, and update the beta.
Haha, I've got a 1/2"x5" SS bolt for the crux of Smoke on the Water. That route is so cool. Plus, I've got a mess of other SS, which should be nice, given the climate there.
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Location: WA : Bellingham Area Climbing
By: smassey When: May 8, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Well, Matthias, it seems like some uninformed people beat you to the punch. Now there's a new page under B'ham area. They didn't even bother to cut and paste my beta. Kids these days... I'll take a look at the trail when I'm up there this summer. The base was largely fine. The area to the right of Smoke on the Water is eroding a bit. I'll probably build a few steps there on a day off. I've got some ASCA hardware to finish up the rebolting work, so it should be buffed out soon.
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Location: WA : Bellingham Area Climbing : Governor Lister Cliffs (a.... : Pink Medusa (5.6)
By: smassey When: May 8, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Three bolts, actually, and an anchor. It would've served you well if you had just talked to Matthias, so I didn't have to correct things. Cheers.
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Location: WA : Bellingham Area Climbing : Governor Lister Cliffs (a.... : Saffron Spider (5.9)
By: smassey When: May 8, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is an old-school bolted route. The cam in question is a yellow Alien/Metolius.
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