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Member Since: Feb 15, 2007
Last Visit: Mar 19, 2015
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Point Rank: # 218
Total Points: 2,511
Last Year: 102
Last 30 Days: 7
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 3683 | Routes 92 | Areas 18 | Photos 163 | Page Improvements | Comments 506 | Posts 2770 | Stars 121 | Ratings 13
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Straight Shooter Wall : Orange Clonus (5.10d)
By: Stone Nude When: Apr 12, 2013

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Comments: Ixtlan's stout, that doesn't make all other routes easier by some arcane algebra.

A route with a hard move gets rated as its hardest move. A route with a few dozen hard moves can still be that same grade, or, if you're at the Red, 13c.

That first pitch is a finger-wrecking mean mutha. Call it 5.2 if it makes you feel better. I'm not buying it.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : The Hamlet
By: Stone Nude When: Apr 10, 2013

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Comments: ^^^^Impossible. The rock is super solid and the first ascentionists discriminating about where bolts and routes themselves are placed.

Sarcasm, for those who didn't catch that.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Ten Minute Shift (5.11b)
By: Stone Nude When: Apr 7, 2013

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Comments: Bring cord for the descent. First ascentionists didn't shell out for chain on the raps, so with the amount of sun this wall gets, you will be guaranteed bleached slings at every station.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Hueco Thanks (5.7)
By: Stone Nude When: Apr 7, 2013

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Comments: Shit rock. You've been warned, enjoy at your own risk.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Sweet Thin (5.9)
By: Stone Nude When: Apr 7, 2013

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Comments: Whew. I'm going out on a limb here and asserting that this route is a bit of a mess. It reminded me of the clusterfuckery of variations to variations crisscrossing each other up at Mount Chiselton, with similar craftsmanship shown by the first ascentionists, minus the hold manufacturing.

If you look at the Handren guide, p. 159, it looks like there are several lines here that all give each other plenty of room. What I saw was vertical trail braiding, harware store Redheads married to stainless... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Lotta Balls Wall : Lotta Balls (5.8)
By: Stone Nude When: Apr 1, 2013

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Comments: ^^^^^^Wrong, wrong, wrong again, and also, wrong. Don't pay any attention to the previous post, which is about as far off from reality as possible. Don't hesitate to bring webbing to back up the existing stuff on trees, this is good policy in many parts of Red Rock, not just this descent. I'm not taking time to pick apart all of the inaccuracies, just making a statement of erroneousness and moving on.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Lotta Balls Wall : Lotta Brews (5.7+)
By: Stone Nude When: Mar 18, 2013

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Comments: A fun route for someone looking for a little variety on a much-traveled cliff. Pitch 2 is a real gem in my book. A better link-up than the one described here might be to link Lotta Brews' first pitches into P3 of Black Magic, but this would bump up the grade a bit, and avoid the thought-provoking roof-to-traverse section on P3 of Bruja's, which kept the excitment pretty high for the grade.

Thanks to my thankless partner who endured yet another run up a moderate to scope out what needed to be r... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Trophy Wall : Meatlocker (5.12+)
By: Stone Nude When: Mar 2, 2013

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Comments: Go chop away, choppy macChopperson. Bolt chopping is good, right?

Talk-action=0. Let's see the video of the bolt chopping up on this page. Get to it, attaboy! Bonus points if you wear boy pants while doing it!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Sunny and Steep : Scorpions (5.11a)
By: Stone Nude When: Mar 2, 2013

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Comments: ^^^^^^My six masters' degrees in engineering tell me that 2 drops of loctite save these kinds of posts and the eventual removal of the hardware that's paid for by kind donations.

That's just the benefit of spending 80 years in engineering school.

Or, having three brain cells, total. Stapled together. With duct tape backup.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : The Nightcrawler (5.10b)
By: Stone Nude When: Feb 17, 2013

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Comments: Roger, thanks for the updating. I'm working a bunch right now but got word from some of my crew that this will be taken care of very soon. Thanks for good description of the problem, it helps out a lot for the replacement effort. -K


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Civilization Crag : Evil Empire (5.11)
By: Stone Nude When: Feb 3, 2013

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Comments: Yeah, it's really too bad you didn't rap-bolt this splitter, Wilder. That really would've been something to see. And I miss that rotten flake, too-I hear all the good climbs in Vegas have rotten, wedged flakes that you have to "micro-crimp" on. Too bad people clean loose stuff off of climbs, ground-up. That's really an ethical boondoggle. Someone call the BLM narc hotline, IMHO. That's something to do if you're bored. Why bother climbing when you can gossip? PS nice work on the toprope. Strong e... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Trophy Wall : Trophy Crack (5.10- V0-1)
By: Stone Nude When: Jan 29, 2013

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Comments: Fuck yeah, Matt. Fuck yeah.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Meetup Wall : The Pumpkin King (5.10a/b)
By: Stone Nude When: Jan 3, 2013

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Comments: Is the glue still wet?


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Meetup Wall : Photo
By: Stone Nude When: Jan 3, 2013

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Comments: JEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEZZZZZZZZZZZZUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUSSSSSSSSSSSSS!!!!!

Have you no shame?


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Ginger Buttress : Ginger Cracks (5.9)
By: Stone Nude When: Dec 27, 2012

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Comments: Respectable words. Logic must be a virus, a few posters are displaying it these days-pretty unusual in these parts. Thx for the perspective, Yasso.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Bridge Mountain : Northeast Arete (5.6)
By: Stone Nude When: Dec 22, 2012

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Comments: Maybe they could just pave the approach, or put in a via ferrata all the way up Rocky Gap Road....


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Ginger Buttress : Ginger Cracks (5.9)
By: Stone Nude When: Dec 22, 2012

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Comments: ^^^That's my boy! The chockstone is safe, the problem is just what Scott said: people taking "consumer" routes for granted and not carrying cord to back up anchors.

Bring some cord, sirs. It's your own responsibility, and if you're not an ASCA donor yet, that might be a good first step after buying some webbing and a knife to cut it.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Stratocaster Area : Unknown (5.10d)
By: Stone Nude When: Nov 29, 2012

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Comments: That is so weird. I didn't think people did that kind of thing in red rock. I guess the end (a mess) justifies the means (anything goes, except ground-up and good style)


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Stratocaster Area
By: Stone Nude When: Nov 29, 2012

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Comments: Janes is referring to the new routes that have epoxy drip patterns spread out underneath the left one with shitty homemade permamank, and the one on the right with the extra visible black chains on bolts three feet apart on 5.8 moves.

I'd be happy to out the culprits on here, but the local ethic seems to be to keep that kind of information quiet. The right route isn't bad minus the chain nonsense, the one on the left looks like a glued up pile that isn't calling my name with so many good pitch... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Refrigerator Wall : Breakaway (5.10c)
By: Stone Nude When: Nov 29, 2012

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Comments: 80m rope or doubles sounds smarter to me. Adding that much cord to an anchor to *barely* make it down is more of a bail technique than standard operating procedure on a trade route. The anchor will be cordless and nice beefy ASCA stainless once I get a day to jump on it again with Shirtless Tendon. Downclimbing a blank overhanging wall because you didn't bring the correct rope to descend sounds like not-fun in my book.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : Brass Balls (5.10)
By: Stone Nude When: Nov 28, 2012

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Comments: Bolts on this one are less than stellar right now with the exception of the top two stations. I particularly like the use of the power drill to chip out channels for the hangerless chain/washer setup to sit flush. The mixed metal pro bolt setups on P1 leave a lot to be desired.

How much tougher would it have been to just use a hanger or three to make these stations legit? I guess chipping and mixing metals seemed like a better idea.

I'd suggest trying the 5.7 R chimney variation to the 1st pit... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Kraft Crags : Classic Crack of Calico (5.9+) : Photo
By: Stone Nude When: Nov 28, 2012

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Comments: Looked at it. Didn't look like something I'd get a lot out of, personally. Give er a go, let me know what you think.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Our Father (5.10 R)
By: Stone Nude When: Nov 28, 2012

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Comments: Rob, you and I replaced bolts on Delicate Sound and Tales From The Gripped that day. We didn't have to touch P2 of Our Fadda as all that was already done. The ones we didn't finish dealing with were on P2 of Tales, that was when we finally gave in to our scratchy throats and descended to get water and Haterade.

I think Roger's description is making it sound like there is a sport section on that pitch, but I'd bet at most someone may have replaced the formerly chopped second bolt recently. This ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Lotta Balls Wall : Bruja's Brew (5.9) : Photo
By: Stone Nude When: Oct 19, 2012

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Comments: This photo shows a variant to the actual line. It is possible to break right into "Voodoo Doll", and head up to the Black Magic anchor. If climbing Bruja's Brew, step left from pitch one's bolted belay, climb more or less straight up until about 25 feet below the roof, belay on finger to hand sized gear. The next pitch steps right, takes a seam to the roof, climb straight up from the only obvious nut placement (steep, but 5.6) then scoots left to a steep pull near greenery that deposits you on a... more >>


Location: Wally29 : Space Cowboy : Photo
By: Stone Nude When: Oct 14, 2012

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Comments: Nice shot!


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