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Leading on the only "fair means" rack.


Member Since: Feb 15, 2007
Last Visit: Sep 14, 2014
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Point Rank: # 212
Total Points: 2,458
Last Year: 209
Last 30 Days: 0
53 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Cultivating Mass been climbing?










Contributions


All 3386 | Routes 90 | Areas 18 | Photos 164 | Page Improvements | Comments 468 | Posts 2524 | Stars 114 | Ratings 8
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Red Springs Rock Lower Tier : Gold Bikini & Cinnamon Bun ... (5.10- PG13)
By: Cultivating Mass When: Aug 13, 2012

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Comments: Never trust a Swain route. Good lesson to learn, chum.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Raindance (5.10a)
By: Cultivating Mass When: Aug 5, 2012

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Comments: Those bastards. Who dareth stealeth the retrobolts that allow such convenient skipping of the tree?!?!

Tree is solid for rapping. Bolts have appeared and disappeared on this route again and again. No reason to stress about it. It's the Circle of Life...


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Sand Felipe (5.10-)
By: Cultivating Mass When: Aug 5, 2012

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Comments: This is a high quality face climbing route on very aesthetic rock that is, as was noted by several others above, a great example of how why first ascentionists should choose not to rap-bolt a route into submission. The moves and the rock are interesting, fun, and attention-getting at times. The bolting that accompanies the natural situations on the rock does not pass muster at all.

I looked at the hardware on this one on the way down from replacing an anchor on Triassic, and was not impressed.... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Triassic Sands (5.10)
By: Cultivating Mass When: Aug 5, 2012

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Comments: Anchor replaced on Pitch 2. One of the Rawl shorty bolts that made up the 3 bolt anchor snapped at the threads under hand pressure while removing.

Anchor is now 2 stainless 1/2 inch with Fixe ASCA ring hangers. All holes patched.

The upper anchors still need some attention to remove old studs from previous incarnations. We didn't have the necessary tools with us, but hope to return and finish the job.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Necromancer Wall : Sensuous Mortician (5.9)
By: Cultivating Mass When: Jul 31, 2012

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Comments: Not the hardest nine in the world, given, but I thought Amazing Grace was kick-you-in-the-dick old school hard for the grade, and Epi's such different climbing that it's kinda ridick to bother comparing them. I mean, Freerider on El Cap is only .12d, that's exactly like busting out Straight Outta Compton at Chiselton, right?

The heady aspect is more challenging for most than the "extreme crimping and offwidthing". That said, it's got more meat to it than Fold Out, which is Herbst .8. Thus, =9*... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Rose Tower : Olive Oil (5.7)
By: Cultivating Mass When: Jul 28, 2012

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Comments: A 70 meter rope shines on this route, recommended, no simuling needed with the proper cord.

Done this thing a million times, nice mellow romp. Noticed that there has been a recent bolt-and-chop game being played on this route-I would say the choppers are winning this round. Saw a well-patched hole (you start noticing these things once you replace a few hundred bolts for the ASCA) at the first pitch crux, the patched hole was less than 2 feet from bomber .4 and .75 camalot placements. Saw a cou... more >>


Location: NV : Mt. Charleston : Sesame Street
By: Cultivating Mass When: Jul 22, 2012

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Comments: Classic descriptions. So much effort put forth. Can't wait to not bother wandering around looking for this well-documented area.

Fail.


Location: NV : Mt. Charleston : Blue Sky Bluff
By: Cultivating Mass When: Jul 22, 2012

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Comments: Thanks for the new option on Charleston, Mike. Can't wait to get back and try some more of the lines on the right. Very decent little cliff, and I didn't touch at least 2 of the best routes.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Dream of Wild Turkeys (5.10a) : Photo
By: Cultivating Mass When: Jul 22, 2012

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Comments: I love the sign. We need more plaques on the wall in Red Rock. Maybe one that says "Oh, shit! You're in the middle of the runout that lobotomized the last guy that fell off!" right in the middle of the big traverse on Fiddler? That one would load a few pants, guaranteed..


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Jungle Wall : Jungle Wall (5.11b) : Photo
By: Cultivating Mass When: Jul 19, 2012

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Comments: Gotta sack up for some of those red rock routes, Austin! For slabby rock, those bolt spacings should be reasonable. Haven't been out b/c I heard these might be rap bolted routes and I'm not into that kinda stuff for the most part.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Elephant Knob : Photo
By: Cultivating Mass When: Jul 4, 2012

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Comments: Leeper hanger, known for breaking under body weight. Hardware store quarter incher, unreliable to start out with. Add age, partially melt in a fire, and stir in one unprepared climber...


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Dark Shadows (5.8)
By: Cultivating Mass When: Jun 14, 2012

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Comments: As of this month, all upper bolts with the exception of the P5 bolted anchor have been replaced on a one-for-one basis with stainless 1/2 inch bolts donated by the ASCA. There are numerous bolt studs on the route dating from the FA that need to be chopped and patched, including from the previous replacement efforts. Anyone clipping the new hardware should donate to the ASCA and thank your re-bolters; the amount of work required to get these projects done is rarely acknowledged. A class... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Negro Blanco (5.10c R)
By: Cultivating Mass When: Jun 14, 2012

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Comments: Nice to see this one getting posted up. Fly'n Brian's web page states he did the second ascent of this one in 2010, which gave me a chuckle-several "nobody" Canucks I've met have lapped this one in the last decade alone, plus Harrison's been up it several times, as well as Long, apparently,too. All echoed what Josh is saying above-not that bad, not .11, crunchy rock on the white garbaggio means it's not really a classic, but after the first pitch the business is done so you can start running for... more >>


Location: Elena Sera Jose : winter : Photo
By: Cultivating Mass When: Jun 14, 2012

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Comments: If I was roped up with an illiterate who can't pick their own footwear without consulting The Oracle, I'd look like this, too. Til I untied and jumped.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Prince of Darkness (5.10c) : Photo
By: Cultivating Mass When: Jun 8, 2012

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Comments: You think my profile pics are porntastic? You should see my VHS collection, SON! There are worse routes around, go climb a few recent bolt-free lines around here and tell me how much fun you have. Red Rock+bolts=goodness, climb Rock Warrior and get back to me on that.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Prince of Darkness (5.10c) : Photo
By: Cultivating Mass When: Jun 7, 2012

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Comments: Come down here and climb it with me and see what you think. Michael Reardon made a Las Vegas climbing movie (you can find it used VHS for under ten bucks on Amazon.com) that features Prince being climbed on the old shite bolts/hangers, one of the scenes is the two climbers looking up at this section, trying to figure out how to avoid falling on the belayer and how to climb it. It's thin up there...My first time on the route we got three pitches up before my partner's toes gave out (shoulda broug... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Prince of Darkness (5.10c) : Photo
By: Cultivating Mass When: Jun 5, 2012

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Comments: The fatter the (replaced) bolts get, the easier it is for the next generation to bitch and moan about "too many, too many!"

Anyone putting up stance-drilled quarter-incher horrorshows on Aztec sandstone, please let us bask in your opinions. The rest of you ain't no Siskel and Ebert. This thing was still puckery with all the rusty homemade hangers and corroded 1980s hardware store bolts a few years ago, maybe we should abolish the ASCA so you guys can be appropriately scared?

Joanne put this r... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : The Next Century (5.10 PG13)
By: Cultivating Mass When: Jun 3, 2012

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Comments: Cams down to black alien helpful, it's not over after the slab!
R rating is nonsense, single from 00-3, full set wires (mostly small), maybe a couple extra small cams for people pushing themselves on this one do fine. Thoughtful, not scary climbing.

Great climbing and stone. Good example of how a few bolts can allow a classic to happen, without the bolts this thing would never get touched.


Location: NV : Mt. Charleston : The Hood : The Infectious Cave / Slab : Short Dog (5.12a)
By: Cultivating Mass When: May 30, 2012

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Comments: Don't know how I double posted, that was a long time ago.

This route gets roasted in Reardon's Las Vegas climbing film. It does suck pretty bad, if you have a soul.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Ragged Edges Area : Bodiddly (5.11a/b PG13)
By: Cultivating Mass When: May 28, 2012

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Comments: Bolts are all 100% on this one as of this week, all stainless ASCA gear.

Andy, those SMC hangers themselves were ok, but when you spy out old bolts, take a look at the size of the visible stud as well. The bolts we chopped out (first 2) were non-standard size (5/16?) that didn't fit the hole on the hanger(3/8). They were probably good for a few falls but rattly hangers are sketchball, corroded or not. When leveraged the wrong way, no amount of washers are going to keep the hanger from bending ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Ragged Edges Area : Footloose (5.7)
By: Cultivating Mass When: May 20, 2012

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Comments: Bad news, jefe. Handren guide, page 307, Stratocaster Wall: Footloose, 11b sport.

Also from the photo this looks like some already established route at the springs, would have to look some to track it down, saw it on this site or another one that's similar.

Worth a second try on the name at least. Don't feel bad-Willow's been pretty well picked over for years now.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Fixx Cliff
By: Cultivating Mass When: May 10, 2012

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Comments: Andy, the one bolted (retro'd) anchor up there was screwed up by whoever put it in, which isn't helping the case for any others. Check out the empty hole beside the right bolt-NICE and close to the bolt. Thoughtful AND safe. Don't expect that thing to last long, it ain't original and there's a solid gear anchor a few feet above. The wall is for adventure climbing. More bolts would just make it fast-food. Worth the effort but not a pushover crag. It's nice to have some walls that take thinking *a... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Cloud Tower (5.12-)
By: Cultivating Mass When: May 10, 2012

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Comments: It's not Crawford's route, Will, so that doesn't click. He+Randy tried it and didn't get it. Also, comparing a ground-up send of a ground-up project to anything even remotely related to a chipped, rap-bolted "extension" isn't making much sense.

I can call Crawford anytime, but to ask him about this? The guys that freed the thing in good style have spoken. I guess you think I need McQuade's permission to replace the anchors he retrobolted on, too?

I'm not sure this post or the last one add mu... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Cloud Tower (5.12-)
By: Cultivating Mass When: Apr 24, 2012

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Comments: Some differing opinions have been circulating on what should be done regarding bolt replacement on Cloud Tower. I sat down and had beer with Paul and Richard (Nick had to work+couldn't make it) as well as Shirtless and here's what I got:

1: Paul can outdrink me.
2: Richard Harrison will never stop being a straight-up badass. Fact.
3: (this is kinda the important part):

NONE OF THE BOLTS CLIPPED BY MODERN CLIMBERS WAS PLACED BY PAUL VAN B, RICHARD H, OR NICK N.

The original attempts made on t... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Return To Forever (5.10d)
By: Cultivating Mass When: Apr 24, 2012

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Comments: Wendell Broussard: "Those quarter inchers are suicidal, they were bad when the route was new." Fun route, I don't know if Matt saw this or not, but the Punks tried to drill under the roof and broke a bit, which STILL sticks out of a hole right by the crack. I'd reccommend trying other routes until the top anchor gets replaced (ran out of time last day in the area). One option is TRing from Mazatlan anchor til then, but if you fall you'll pendulum a bit. I think some people have rapped Miss Conce... more >>


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