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Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Smears for Fears Area : Smears for Fears (5.11b/c)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Jan 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: After back-to-back efforts, the consensus in my group was that this was at least as difficult as Rojo. 11b/c may be lowballing it a bit.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Cutting Edge (5.11c PG13) : Photo
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Jan 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pretty cool of you to post it up, Danny. Definitely a nice shot.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Winter Heat Wall : Winter Heat (5.11)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Jan 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I got two nuts...one for each of ya!
Regardless of any minutia of protection, this isn't a dangerous route and it's for sure pretty classic. Climb and enjoy.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Running Man Wall : Running Man (5.11) : Photo
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Jan 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Everything about this is hilarious. Photo, comments, the whole works. Classic.
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Location: Killing In The Name Of : Things to do when you're ch... : Photo
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Jan 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Now you're making me think that people remove permadraws. I've never heard of such!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Labyrinth Wall
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Jan 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good stuff, Larry. Glad to hear you climbed it-- recently, I've been hearing a lot of "expert opinion" on routes from some of our elder statesmen that have struck me as almost painfully uninformed and assumptive. I hadn't done the route, and think that making guesses as to the nature of something you haven't been on is fine and good, but making blanket statements such as Karsten's above seem to me presumptive and narrow-minded. I'm sure my own anti-bolt sentiments in many ways mirror Karsten's, ... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Labyrinth Wall
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Jan 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Jay Smith routes in Red Rock that feature bolts:
Whiplash 11+/12- 2 pitches
Mercedes 11a single pitch
Hot Point 11d 3 pitches
Tuff Guys Don't Dance 11c 2 pitches
Sky Dive 11b single pitch
Ripcord 12a 4 pitches
Spectrum 11a 8 pitches
Voyager 11b 3 pitches
X15 4 pitches
K-day 12b single pitch
Rock Warrior 10b 6 pitches
The Flesh 10d many pitches
Jay Smith Unnamed Route on Wholesome Fullback Buttress 10d? 2 pitches
High Plains Drifter 10d single pitch
Elephant Man 11b single pitch
Big Top 10d singl... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Labyrinth Wall
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Jan 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Larry, have you climbed the Guiness Book?
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Trophy Wall : Photo
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Jan 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Okay, for context and explanation:
THE STUPID LIST:
Sport Climbing Area.
Sport Climbers.
Permadraws made of unknown-strength hardware-store chain.
Us as a community allowing these unsightly, dangerous, and stupid jewelry pieces to festoon our otherwise decent sport climbing crags.
The BLM for not emphatically discouraging this lame practice.
Anything in this list that's not stupid, let me know so I can put it on the Very Smart Things list.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Kraft Crags : Classic Crack of Calico (5.9+)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Jan 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route. Chossy first section in the gully is a solid deterrant for anyone looking for a Birdland type experience. Best done in 3 pitches, Dow's Summitpost page on it has it dead on, with the exception that the third pitch is more like 125'.
P1 200' Gully unfun to ledgy, crumbly crappo with (new)#5 walking for a ways (there's other pro but the 5 feels nice walked above as you step on old sugar cookies repeatedly). Rock improves after a ways and then gets fun before getting ledgy and an... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Riding Hood Wall : Over the Hill to Grandmothe... (5.9+)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Dec 29, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with Josh. Left side is casual, right is burly. Both lots of fun, rap with a single rope or finish up P.G.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Cut Your Teeth Crag : Photo
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Dec 26, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Gumby Alert Items:
1: original bolting job
2: putting quicklinks on for rapping
3: TRing thru the links
4: probably more than I caught so far...
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Dog Wall : Dog Logic (aka Here Kitty, ... (5.11b)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Dec 19, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: What John is saying above is that because there is a hard starting move, the *crux above* was left unprotected. Now, he didn't bolt the thing, and isn't responsible for what the bolter did. That said, this route was bolted stupidly, and I'd much rather have a spot for the first two moves, then a protected crux with a safe fall, than a bolt-protected AND spotted starting move to an unprotected decking crux.
For what it's worth, I onsighted this climb ground-up my first year in Vegas. It's good ... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Perilous Journey (5.11b X)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Dec 19, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: George Bell has not climbed this route but agrees with the X rating.
Edit: George's post stating so on the Friar page in Red Rock NCA has been deleted. Worth noting however.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Frogland (5.8) : Photo
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Dec 19, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ladies and gentlemen, he's back, with more helpful comments. If I do the route again anytime soon, Kurt, I'll get video taken of me breaking those holds off with my bare hands or a swift kick. 20 bucks says wet or dry they're gone in ten seconds. Really.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Fixx Cliff : The Skag (5.11b)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Dec 19, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Route is called the Skag, and my guess is that the OP here has not climbed it (or at least is not in the know about 80s coker slang).
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Fixx Cliff
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Dec 19, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Eric, did you climb these routes before posting them?
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : The Friar and Byrd Pinnacle : The Friar (5.9)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Dec 17, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I HAVE climbed the route, but it seems like the "haven't climbed it but I'm in agreement with the in-crowd" have the info on this one on lockdown, so I'm going to post a grade confirmation on Dreamcatcher .14d in Squamish because I'm sure Sharma knows what he's talking about.
Ridiculous. If you're a 5.10 climber and have a pair, climb this thing and make up your own mind. Otherwise, I hear posting fan mail to routes you've never booted up for is what the cool kids are doing this season.
Any ... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Windy Peak : South Face : Western Swing (5.10)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Dec 12, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Was it good though? This thing looks sexy as hell but I had suspicions that this is Another Random "Eh" Red Rock Route. Comments on the quality?
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Holiday Wall : Red Storm Rising (5.11b)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Dec 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you want to come out of retirement to do some replacement, I'm in. Let's put in glue-ins!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Holiday Wall : Fast Moving Train (5.11c/d)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Dec 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm loving the one-man grade dispute-rated it the same as the OP, PLUS a PG-13 (not common on Calico sport routes), THEN going to 11a original grade agreement, *THEN* maybe 11b?
The only thing obvious here is that someone is very confused about how many grades you can apply to one climb.
"John Wilder
Apr 14, 2007
RATING: Suggests 5.11C/D PG-13
I dont know if this is .11c/d, the crux is definitely thin and steep, though. I'd say .11a is reasonable, although .11b would probably be more accurat... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Windy Peak : South Face : Slabotomy (5.9)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Dec 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Those looking for a good chunk of beta on Ain't No Saint should look at Dow Williams' site summitpost.org. He thought it was a chossy pile that was dangerous and had water running down some pitches. Sounds rad.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Windy Peak : South Face : Jubilant Song (5.8)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Dec 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Some people see cold beer, pretty girls, and hear good music bumping on the stereo, and think "this party sucks." This route's a lot of fun. The name is there for a reason. Large hexes work great on the route+save weight, I can see linking helping out, only part that seemed sketchy to me on the whole route was the moves above the junk bolt, once that's replaced, it'll be even more badass.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Black Orpheus Amphitheater
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Dec 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Descent down this route is fine, though as always there's some looseness in the area between the summit tree and the rap bolts. A trundle party wouldn't be a terrible idea on a rainy day for a helpful soul, but we rapped it today and weren't worried about geology at any point. Single 70 works perfect, all cord solid on 12/11, not a bad idea to bring a chunk as backup as per usual in Red Rock.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Black Orpheus Amphitheater : Plate of Fate (5.9+)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Dec 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this one today as I'd been told that there was need of bolt replacement on the route. Not so! The initial pro bolt is in a fully hollow flake, but I'm sure would take falls, and the climbing is fun. We switched out the hangers at the first anchor for stainless Fixe Ring Anchors, (thank the ASCA and donate, slackers), that was the extent of the work done. The first two pitches never got harder than 7+, we belayed at the bolted first pitch anchor and linked the short (60-70ft) 2nd pitch and th... more >>
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