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Member Since: Feb 15, 2007
Last Visit: 20 hours ago
Contact SexPanther aka Kiedis


Point Rank: # 203
Total Points: 2,419
Last Year: 214
Last 30 Days: 16
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has SexPanther aka Kiedis been climbing?










SexPanther aka Kiedis

 
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All (3166) | Routes (88) | Areas (18) | Photos (164) | Comments (449) | Posts (2328) | Stars (111) | Ratings (8)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Amber (5.10) : Photo
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: Sep 2, 2012

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Comments: My buddy has this wedge bolt as a souvenir. The entire top anchor sat on a fully rotten, disconnected strata that has broken into pieces since the FA of the route. One bolt was A4 and the other was a time bomb. Glad to have gotten this one off my bucket list.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Amber (5.10)
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: Sep 2, 2012

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Comments: Janky top anchor replaced with new hardware donated by the American Safe Climbing Association. Make sure to send them a check after you do the route.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Amber (5.10)
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: Sep 2, 2012

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Comments: Top anchor has been replaced thanks to your local ASCA fairies, but you've still got to have a major screw loose to burn time on that last pile of a pitch with all the other amazing splitters nearby. The pitch stars go down as well as the rock quality, with every belay that you reach. 1+2 are pretty cool, though 2 is oddly hardwared from my perspective. P3 is decent, more loose rock than the 2nd, but okay. The view from the top of P4 is great but you have to really be psyched on choss to get exc... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Refrigerator Wall : Weenie Juice (5.10a)
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: Aug 29, 2012

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Comments: Amazing pitch. I took triples on the big stuff and singles on the rest. Wendell says the weird bolt is a retrobolt. Burns a fair bit of time on the approach/descent, but one of my favorite red rock cracks. Anchor was replaced last year, you're welcome, Offtards. :)

Five stars.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Red Springs Rock Lower Tier : Gold Bikini & Cinnamon Bun ... (5.10- PG13)
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: Aug 13, 2012

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Comments: Never trust a Swain route. Good lesson to learn, chum.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Raindance (5.10a)
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: Aug 5, 2012

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Comments: Those bastards. Who dareth stealeth the retrobolts that allow such convenient skipping of the tree?!?!

Tree is solid for rapping. Bolts have appeared and disappeared on this route again and again. No reason to stress about it. It's the Circle of Life...


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Sand Felipe (5.10-)
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: Aug 5, 2012

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Comments: This is a high quality face climbing route on very aesthetic rock that is, as was noted by several others above, a great example of how why first ascentionists should choose not to rap-bolt a route into submission. The moves and the rock are interesting, fun, and attention-getting at times. The bolting that accompanies the natural situations on the rock does not pass muster at all.

I looked at the hardware on this one on the way down from replacing an anchor on Triassic, and was not impressed.... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Triassic Sands (5.10)
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: Aug 5, 2012

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Comments: Anchor replaced on Pitch 2. One of the Rawl shorty bolts that made up the 3 bolt anchor snapped at the threads under hand pressure while removing.

Anchor is now 2 stainless 1/2 inch with Fixe ASCA ring hangers. All holes patched.

The upper anchors still need some attention to remove old studs from previous incarnations. We didn't have the necessary tools with us, but hope to return and finish the job.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Necromancer Wall : Sensuous Mortician (5.9)
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: Jul 31, 2012

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Comments: Not the hardest nine in the world, given, but I thought Amazing Grace was kick-you-in-the-dick old school hard for the grade, and Epi's such different climbing that it's kinda ridick to bother comparing them. I mean, Freerider on El Cap is only .12d, that's exactly like busting out Straight Outta Compton at Chiselton, right?

The heady aspect is more challenging for most than the "extreme crimping and offwidthing". That said, it's got more meat to it than Fold Out, which is Herbst .8. Thus, =9*... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Rose Tower : Olive Oil (5.7)
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: Jul 28, 2012

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Comments: A 70 meter rope shines on this route, recommended, no simuling needed with the proper cord.

Done this thing a million times, nice mellow romp. Noticed that there has been a recent bolt-and-chop game being played on this route-I would say the choppers are winning this round. Saw a well-patched hole (you start noticing these things once you replace a few hundred bolts for the ASCA) at the first pitch crux, the patched hole was less than 2 feet from bomber .4 and .75 camalot placements. Saw a cou... more >>


Location: NV : Mt. Charleston : Sesame Street
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: Jul 22, 2012

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Comments: Classic descriptions. So much effort put forth. Can't wait to not bother wandering around looking for this well-documented area.

Fail.


Location: NV : Mt. Charleston : Blue Sky Bluff
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: Jul 22, 2012

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Comments: Thanks for the new option on Charleston, Mike. Can't wait to get back and try some more of the lines on the right. Very decent little cliff, and I didn't touch at least 2 of the best routes.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Dream of Wild Turkeys (5.10a) : Photo
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: Jul 22, 2012

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Comments: I love the sign. We need more plaques on the wall in Red Rock. Maybe one that says "Oh, shit! You're in the middle of the runout that lobotomized the last guy that fell off!" right in the middle of the big traverse on Fiddler? That one would load a few pants, guaranteed..


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Jungle Wall : Jungle Wall (5.11b) : Photo
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: Jul 19, 2012

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Comments: Gotta sack up for some of those red rock routes, Austin! For slabby rock, those bolt spacings should be reasonable. Haven't been out b/c I heard these might be rap bolted routes and I'm not into that kinda stuff for the most part.


Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : Elephant Knob : Photo
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: Jul 4, 2012

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Comments: Leeper hanger, known for breaking under body weight. Hardware store quarter incher, unreliable to start out with. Add age, partially melt in a fire, and stir in one unprepared climber...


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Dark Shadows (5.8)
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: Jun 14, 2012

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Comments: As of this month, all upper bolts with the exception of the P5 bolted anchor have been replaced on a one-for-one basis with stainless 1/2 inch bolts donated by the ASCA. There are numerous bolt studs on the route dating from the FA that need to be chopped and patched, including from the previous replacement efforts. Anyone clipping the new hardware should donate to the ASCA and thank your re-bolters; the amount of work required to get these projects done is rarely acknowledged. A class... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Negro Blanco (5.10c R)
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: Jun 14, 2012

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Comments: Nice to see this one getting posted up. Fly'n Brian's web page states he did the second ascent of this one in 2010, which gave me a chuckle-several "nobody" Canucks I've met have lapped this one in the last decade alone, plus Harrison's been up it several times, as well as Long, apparently,too. All echoed what Josh is saying above-not that bad, not .11, crunchy rock on the white garbaggio means it's not really a classic, but after the first pitch the business is done so you can start running for... more >>


Location: Elena Sera Jose : winter : Photo
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: Jun 14, 2012

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Comments: If I was roped up with an illiterate who can't pick their own footwear without consulting The Oracle, I'd look like this, too. Til I untied and jumped.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Prince of Darkness (5.10c) : Photo
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: Jun 8, 2012

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Comments: You think my profile pics are porntastic? You should see my VHS collection, SON! There are worse routes around, go climb a few recent bolt-free lines around here and tell me how much fun you have. Red Rock+bolts=goodness, climb Rock Warrior and get back to me on that.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Prince of Darkness (5.10c) : Photo
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: Jun 7, 2012

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Comments: Come down here and climb it with me and see what you think. Michael Reardon made a Las Vegas climbing movie (you can find it used VHS for under ten bucks on Amazon.com) that features Prince being climbed on the old shite bolts/hangers, one of the scenes is the two climbers looking up at this section, trying to figure out how to avoid falling on the belayer and how to climb it. It's thin up there...My first time on the route we got three pitches up before my partner's toes gave out (shoulda broug... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Prince of Darkness (5.10c) : Photo
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: Jun 5, 2012

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Comments: The fatter the (replaced) bolts get, the easier it is for the next generation to bitch and moan about "too many, too many!"

Anyone putting up stance-drilled quarter-incher horrorshows on Aztec sandstone, please let us bask in your opinions. The rest of you ain't no Siskel and Ebert. This thing was still puckery with all the rusty homemade hangers and corroded 1980s hardware store bolts a few years ago, maybe we should abolish the ASCA so you guys can be appropriately scared?

Joanne put this r... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : The Next Century (5.10 PG13)
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: Jun 3, 2012

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Comments: Cams down to black alien helpful, it's not over after the slab!
R rating is nonsense, single from 00-3, full set wires (mostly small), maybe a couple extra small cams for people pushing themselves on this one do fine. Thoughtful, not scary climbing.

Great climbing and stone. Good example of how a few bolts can allow a classic to happen, without the bolts this thing would never get touched.


Location: NV : Mt. Charleston : The Hood : The Infectious Cave / Slab : Short Dog (5.12a)
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: May 30, 2012

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Comments: Don't know how I double posted, that was a long time ago.

This route gets roasted in Reardon's Las Vegas climbing film. It does suck pretty bad, if you have a soul.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Ragged Edges Area : Bodiddly (5.11a/b PG13)
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: May 28, 2012

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Comments: Bolts are all 100% on this one as of this week, all stainless ASCA gear.

Andy, those SMC hangers themselves were ok, but when you spy out old bolts, take a look at the size of the visible stud as well. The bolts we chopped out (first 2) were non-standard size (5/16?) that didn't fit the hole on the hanger(3/8). They were probably good for a few falls but rattly hangers are sketchball, corroded or not. When leveraged the wrong way, no amount of washers are going to keep the hanger from bending ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Ragged Edges Area : Footloose (5.7)
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: May 20, 2012

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Comments: Bad news, jefe. Handren guide, page 307, Stratocaster Wall: Footloose, 11b sport.

Also from the photo this looks like some already established route at the springs, would have to look some to track it down, saw it on this site or another one that's similar.

Worth a second try on the name at least. Don't feel bad-Willow's been pretty well picked over for years now.


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