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Book me, officer.


Member Since: Feb 15, 2007
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Point Rank: # 207
Total Points: 2,457
Last Year: 226
Last 30 Days: 5
51 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 3317 | Routes 90 | Areas 18 | Photos 164 | Page Improvments | Comments 467 | Posts 2457 | Stars 113 | Ratings 8
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Lone Star (5.11) : Photo
By: Zappatista When: Sep 6, 2013

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Comments: Xavier, if you check out Ben's profile, he's got 3,000+ contributions. Un-trollish, esp as he's contributed stacks of routes to the database, a step seldom taken by those who live under bridges. You'll notice that every fifth comment is helmet-related, and as you say, it's a gettable point being made. Irony here: my first thought when I saw this photo way back when I was green as grass to Red Rock was: "wow, Tom and Brian are climbing some rad-looking shit! Can't wait to do that one! No helmets ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Necromancer Wall
By: Zappatista When: Aug 27, 2013

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Comments: Rap descent works best with a 70, eliminates downclimbing and hijinks. There are two different starts to the rappels, one which starts by downclimbing East (climber's left) to an exposed traverse and stance to rap off of a slung boulder and tree. The other involves going up a short wall, heading left, and dropping down to a large tree. The latter would be a better choice if with a skittish second, a shorter rope, or a combination of the two.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Necromancer Wall : Unknown 10a (5.10a)
By: Zappatista When: Aug 27, 2013

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Comments: This route's been in existence as long as I've been in Vegas and then some, the previous anchor was getting rusted as hell and thus got replaced last year with stainless ASCA rings+brand new bolts. No gear's needed other than draws, a #9 stopper can be placed but it's in the way of a good hold, so probably better to avoid placing it. There are some wide stems and cool moves this baby-cost me a pair of pants to flash it, ended up flashing my belayer, too. Worthwhile if you're in the area. S... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Fairview Dome : Regular Route (5.9)
By: Zappatista When: Jul 30, 2013

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Comments: My first good-sized route at the Meadows. Rack was single wires, single rack to 4 with some extra small cams to .75ish, don't forget the med-lg offset wires, they go in everywhere. Crux is short-maybe 3 moves of legit .9, look for feet on your left, don't stress the wet locks-there are a lot more coming when it goes to hands just above, but easier by far. 2nd pitch was most sustained and nerve-wracking; very greasy, smarmy feel. A lot of .8 move to .8 move to .8 move, more actual rock ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : The Schwa Area : The Schwa (5.10d)
By: Zappatista When: Jul 25, 2013

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Comments: I know some rogue hoes who post here on the REG, son. They fear the wide, whereas others saddle up and ride...


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Cannibal Crag : Baseboy (Bolted Variation) (5.11b)
By: Zappatista When: Jul 25, 2013

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Comments: ^^^^^With so much drama in tha LBC, it must be hard still bein just Danger D, but he, somehow someway, keep comin up with funky ass shit like every single day! I second the real real on the real, dawg.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Ragged Edges Area
By: Zappatista When: May 17, 2013

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Comments: He means that Joe Herbst, Mark Moore, Jon Martinet, Matt McMackin, Nick Nordblom, Randall Grandstaff, Jeff Lansing, John Landaker, Jim Whitesell, Richard Harrison, Wendell Broussard, Paul Van Betten, John Bachar, and Sal Mamusia don't get the whole Yosemite Decimal System.

I don't think anyone really understands the Yosemite Decimal System, so maybe ol' Sax is onto something here. Though getting spanked at the Springs is a pretty unusual thing. He must've trusted the wrong description of Aikid... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : The Fringe : Open Project (5.13)
By: Zappatista When: Apr 21, 2013

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Comments: No pics? Damn, Mike, am I going to have to walk all the way up there to realize this is too much work for me?

On a serious note, cool of you to post up an open project. Most sportos out here would probably have just "added holds", and claimed it at whatever reduced grade. Looking forward to getting out there and checking it out. Thanks for making the effort. Civilization is cleaning up and getting better and better these days.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Challenger Wall : Adventure Punks (5.10d)
By: Zappatista When: Apr 14, 2013

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Comments: The "direct start" is a 5.9 move, there's only one move on the first pitch that I thought even rated 10a. Traversing in looked like way more of a pain in the ass and more of an attempt to avoid the nature of the route than much "safer", seeing as the possibility of a good-sized swinging fall and lack of a clear route burn time and psych that could be better put to use higher on the route where the real challenges lie. If you can't handle a .9 groundfall possibility on good rock, there are a lot ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Epinephrine (5.9)
By: Zappatista When: Apr 14, 2013

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Comments: This route can be a shitshow on weekends and holidays, plan to be there earlier than anything else I can think of, other than maybe Crimson.

This is not a good route to learn how to chimney on. This is not a route to haul your school backpack up. This is not a good route to try with an unfamiliar partner. This is not a route to drag your girlfriend up when she is still learning how to tie a figure 8. This is not a route to do if you are trying to be courteous to slower parties in front of you-... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Straight Shooter Wall : Orange Clonus (5.10d)
By: Zappatista When: Apr 12, 2013

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Comments: Ixtlan's stout, that doesn't make all other routes easier by some arcane algebra.

A route with a hard move gets rated as its hardest move. A route with a few dozen hard moves can still be that same grade, or, if you're at the Red, 13c.

That first pitch is a finger-wrecking mean mutha. Call it 5.2 if it makes you feel better. I'm not buying it.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : The Hamlet
By: Zappatista When: Apr 10, 2013

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Comments: ^^^^Impossible. The rock is super solid and the first ascentionists discriminating about where bolts and routes themselves are placed.

Sarcasm, for those who didn't catch that.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Ten Minute Shift (5.11b)
By: Zappatista When: Apr 7, 2013

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Comments: Bring cord for the descent. First ascentionists didn't shell out for chain on the raps, so with the amount of sun this wall gets, you will be guaranteed bleached slings at every station.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Hueco Thanks (5.7)
By: Zappatista When: Apr 7, 2013

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Comments: Shit rock. You've been warned, enjoy at your own risk.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Sweet Thin (5.9)
By: Zappatista When: Apr 7, 2013

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Comments: Whew. I'm going out on a limb here and asserting that this route is a bit of a mess. It reminded me of the clusterfuckery of variations to variations crisscrossing each other up at Mount Chiselton, with similar craftsmanship shown by the first ascentionists, minus the hold manufacturing.

If you look at the Handren guide, p. 159, it looks like there are several lines here that all give each other plenty of room. What I saw was vertical trail braiding, harware store Redheads married to stainless... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Lotta Balls Wall : Lotta Balls (5.8)
By: Zappatista When: Apr 1, 2013

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Comments: ^^^^^^Wrong, wrong, wrong again, and also, wrong. Don't pay any attention to the previous post, which is about as far off from reality as possible. Don't hesitate to bring webbing to back up the existing stuff on trees, this is good policy in many parts of Red Rock, not just this descent. I'm not taking time to pick apart all of the inaccuracies, just making a statement of erroneousness and moving on.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Lotta Balls Wall : Lotta Brews (5.7+)
By: Zappatista When: Mar 18, 2013

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Comments: A fun route for someone looking for a little variety on a much-traveled cliff. Pitch 2 is a real gem in my book. A better link-up than the one described here might be to link Lotta Brews' first pitches into P3 of Black Magic, but this would bump up the grade a bit, and avoid the thought-provoking roof-to-traverse section on P3 of Bruja's, which kept the excitment pretty high for the grade.

Thanks to my thankless partner who endured yet another run up a moderate to scope out what needed to be r... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Trophy Wall : Meatlocker (5.12+)
By: Zappatista When: Mar 2, 2013

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Comments: Go chop away, choppy macChopperson. Bolt chopping is good, right?

Talk-action=0. Let's see the video of the bolt chopping up on this page. Get to it, attaboy! Bonus points if you wear boy pants while doing it!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Sunny and Steep : Scorpions (5.11a)
By: Zappatista When: Mar 2, 2013

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Comments: ^^^^^^My six masters' degrees in engineering tell me that 2 drops of loctite save these kinds of posts and the eventual removal of the hardware that's paid for by kind donations.

That's just the benefit of spending 80 years in engineering school.

Or, having three brain cells, total. Stapled together. With duct tape backup.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : The Nightcrawler (5.10b)
By: Zappatista When: Feb 17, 2013

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Comments: Roger, thanks for the updating. I'm working a bunch right now but got word from some of my crew that this will be taken care of very soon. Thanks for good description of the problem, it helps out a lot for the replacement effort. -K


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Civilization Crag : Evil Empire (5.11)
By: Zappatista When: Feb 3, 2013

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Comments: Yeah, it's really too bad you didn't rap-bolt this splitter, Wilder. That really would've been something to see. And I miss that rotten flake, too-I hear all the good climbs in Vegas have rotten, wedged flakes that you have to "micro-crimp" on. Too bad people clean loose stuff off of climbs, ground-up. That's really an ethical boondoggle. Someone call the BLM narc hotline, IMHO. That's something to do if you're bored. Why bother climbing when you can gossip? PS nice work on the toprope. Strong e... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Trophy Wall : Trophy Crack (5.10- V0-1)
By: Zappatista When: Jan 29, 2013

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Comments: Fuck yeah, Matt. Fuck yeah.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Meetup Wall : The Pumpkin King (5.10a/b)
By: Zappatista When: Jan 3, 2013

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Comments: Is the glue still wet?


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Meetup Wall : Photo
By: Zappatista When: Jan 3, 2013

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Comments: JEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEZZZZZZZZZZZZUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUSSSSSSSSSSSSS!!!!!

Have you no shame?


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Ginger Buttress : Ginger Cracks (5.9)
By: Zappatista When: Dec 27, 2012

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Comments: Respectable words. Logic must be a virus, a few posters are displaying it these days-pretty unusual in these parts. Thx for the perspective, Yasso.


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