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Member Since: Feb 15, 2007
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 223
Total Points: 2,480
Last Year: 90
Last 30 Days: 15
66 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Cunning Linguist been climbing?










Contributions


All 3694 | Routes 93 | Areas 18 | Photos 154 | Page Improvements | Comments 510 | Posts 2784 | Stars 122 | Ratings 13
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Panty Wall : Black Lace (5.8)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Jan 12, 2014

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Comments: Cool route, Dan. Like the anchor. Like the soap opera over the bolt color even more. Chuckled about that all the way up. Thanks for the effort you put in to get new lines up.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Ultraman Wall : Speed Racer (5.8+ X)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Jan 12, 2014

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Comments: I was told by a longtime local that this route was lead on gear before it was bolted.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Ultraman Wall : Godzilla (5.7)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Jan 12, 2014

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Comments: Fun climbing but runout. Looks like a retrobolt job to me, some way old bolts, some only a few years old. Some gear placements cut down on the runouts.

Edit to add: I don't think anyone will really benefit from bringing gear on this one. It's a fully bolted face climb. It's also rebolted thanks to the ASCA, glue ins people. Enjoy the much. Safer hardware and donate to the ASCA so we can keep upgrading great areas like Ultraman.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Janes Wall : Mannish Boys (5.11-)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Jan 12, 2014

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Comments: Fun route, well protected. 2nd bolt spinning.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Janes Wall : Half Baked (5.9+)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Jan 12, 2014

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Comments: Crux bolt is badly placed and hard to clip from the climbing line. Right anchor bolt not great either. Decent climbing but hardware could use some work.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Stratocaster Area : Unknown (5.10d) : Photo
By: Cunning Linguist When: Jan 12, 2014

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Comments: Really nice pic.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : The Rainbow Wall : The Original Route (5.12)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Jan 10, 2014

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Comments: Alex used the McQuade variation at the start thus avoiding the .12 blankness. Most people do the same.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Labyrinth Wall
By: Cunning Linguist When: Jan 7, 2014

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Comments: Bolts all over this area, probably for years now. Don't let my chortling get in the way of alpine-style hi-fiving or whatever it is the cool kids are doing these days. Check out Contrail comments for details.

Every now and then, it's just nice to be right.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Burlap Buttress : Poultroonicus aka Moving Ov... (5.10-)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Jan 7, 2014

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Comments: Nice, man! Thought 11 looked like a classic Grandstaff swindle on that one. Will put this one on the anchor replacement schedule.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Jungle Wall : Jungle Wall (5.11b) : Photo
By: Cunning Linguist When: Jan 3, 2014

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Comments: High horse sounds like a good route name. Thanks, Doctor Danger.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Triassic Sands (5.10)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Jan 3, 2014

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Comments: ^^^^THAT is some funny shit. Ev, in your world is there some choss park superintendant that is the person in charge of loose rock maintenance and/or shoring up?

That big fang will never come out. Many, many happy climbers comfortably free this route every year. All of them accept that climbing desert sandstone involves the occasional loose block, on trade routes. Try a few looser, less traveled routes and see if you find Triassic scary. For instance, in terms of loose rock/bad rock, on a scale... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Labyrinth Wall : Jet Stream (5.10a R)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Jan 2, 2014

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Comments: I am loving the fact that there have been bolts up there for years in light of the discussion happening on the main labyrinth page. Too funny. So essentially your route became part of at least 2 other parties' FA, worried wives club and whatever the bolted line is, or is your route now just bolted, pitch for pitch? Hard to put that together from the comments.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Labyrinth Wall : Jet Stream (5.10a R)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Dec 26, 2013

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Comments: Right on. What do you use to remove bolts? And were bolts added to your route, or just trade routes like Tunnel and Hot flash that you would prefer not to see retro'd?


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Labyrinth Wall : Jet Stream (5.10a R)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Dec 25, 2013

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Comments: Hey Dan, Why wait so long to post this thing? Sounds like a good adventure, especially with a stranger.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Steel Monkey (5.10+)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Dec 23, 2013

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Comments: Tim Wolfe has been doing some linkups like this in Velvet over the last couple of years. A better name than the one posted might follow Tim's method and be "The Yellow Dark Turkey" or something like that. Either way, you guys are thinking outside the box and that's fun,


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Bed of Nails (5.9 PG13)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Dec 23, 2013

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Comments: Cool to learn who FA'd this and what's on the gear list. I'd always wondered what the story was.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Crunchy Cat (5.8- PG13)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Dec 23, 2013

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Comments: I thought this route was fine when I did it, just a hell of a lot of burnt webbing up there. Supertopo does indeed have this route confused with Disco. The climbing couldn't be more different...


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Ultraman Wall
By: Cunning Linguist When: Dec 21, 2013

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Comments: A 70M rope is very helpful on this wall for rapping and being able to TR climbs with groups. 2 ropes are necessary on some of the longest pitches, a 70 and a tag line would let you do pretty much anything. A light rack gets you up everything but The Hex Files, bring a double rack if you're ticking that line, otherwise save the weight for extra water. Very warm wall for Red Rock.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Ultraman Wall : Ultraman (5.8+ R)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Dec 21, 2013

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Comments: What a fun route. This is a killer wall, so much better than some of its chossy neighbors.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Ultraman Wall : TR Route (5.6)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Dec 21, 2013

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Comments: As of late 2014, the anchors of this route were replaced with stainless 1/2 inch bolts and Mussy hooks courtesy of the ASCA. Visit their site and make a donation if you enjoy climbing this route and appreciate the beefy hardware. This is now a no-fuss toprope due to the Mussy hooks, it's easy to traverse left a few feet and drop a rope in to set up the TR from Mothra, which is the safest and easiest moderate lead on the wall at this point (minus the cactus).


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Ultraman Wall : Mothra (5.7+)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Dec 21, 2013

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Comments: Red slings at anchor, chains may be added at some point but bringing some spare webbing might be a good idea until that happens. There are two bolts near each other at the stance atop the initial big hollow flake, the lower one went in first and turned out to be a spinner. Until I can remove this and patch the hole, ignore it or clip both if it makes you feel warm+fuzzy. The upper bolt is the solid one.

The initial flake is a rope-eater, moving climbers' left and back away from the cliff will ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Ultraman Wall : Destroy All Monsters (5.10-)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Dec 21, 2013

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Comments: 80M rope allows TR, if you have a single 70, hijinks or a quick traverse right to the anchors of Rodan will allow you to get down.

I really want to stress that a 70 does not make this happen as a TR, and rappelling is only possible by swinging over a significant amount. Knot your rope ends and pay attention. It's a long pitch.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Upper Painted Bowl : Chicken Lips (5.10a) : Photo
By: Cunning Linguist When: Dec 21, 2013

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Comments: That's a cool shot!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Wall of Confusion : Super Guide (5.11a)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Dec 18, 2013

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Comments: Awesome, Adam. Thanks for the effort.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Steel Monkey (5.10+)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Dec 14, 2013

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Comments: Interesting mix of pitches. I wonder if a couple mid sized friends is what most people will use on pitch 2 of the Gobbler. Sounds like sandbaggery to me. Agree on climbing only first few on Dream being lame sauce if you're claiming an ascent. The first half is just cragging :)


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