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Member Since: Feb 15, 2007
Last Visit: Aug 19, 2015
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Point Rank: # 233
Total Points: 2,478
Last Year: 83
Last 30 Days: 0
51 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 902 | Routes 92 | Areas 17 | Photos 28 | Page Improvements | Comments 495 | Posts 135 | Stars 122 | Ratings 13
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Labyrinth Wall : Jet Stream (5.10a R)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Jan 2, 2014

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Comments: I am loving the fact that there have been bolts up there for years in light of the discussion happening on the main labyrinth page. Too funny. So essentially your route became part of at least 2 other parties' FA, worried wives club and whatever the bolted line is, or is your route now just bolted, pitch for pitch? Hard to put that together from the comments.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Labyrinth Wall : Jet Stream (5.10a R)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Dec 26, 2013

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Comments: Right on. What do you use to remove bolts? And were bolts added to your route, or just trade routes like Tunnel and Hot flash that you would prefer not to see retro'd?


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Labyrinth Wall : Jet Stream (5.10a R)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Dec 25, 2013

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Comments: Hey Dan, Why wait so long to post this thing? Sounds like a good adventure, especially with a stranger.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Steel Monkey (5.10+)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Dec 23, 2013

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Comments: Tim Wolfe has been doing some linkups like this in Velvet over the last couple of years. A better name than the one posted might follow Tim's method and be "The Yellow Dark Turkey" or something like that. Either way, you guys are thinking outside the box and that's fun,


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Bed of Nails (5.9 PG13)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Dec 23, 2013

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Comments: Cool to learn who FA'd this and what's on the gear list. I'd always wondered what the story was.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Crunchy Cat (5.8- PG13)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Dec 23, 2013

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Comments: I thought this route was fine when I did it, just a hell of a lot of burnt webbing up there. Supertopo does indeed have this route confused with Disco. The climbing couldn't be more different...


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Ultraman Wall
By: Cunning Linguist When: Dec 21, 2013

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Comments: A 70M rope is very helpful on this wall for rapping and being able to TR climbs with groups. 2 ropes are necessary on some of the longest pitches, a 70 and a tag line would let you do pretty much anything. A light rack gets you up everything but The Hex Files, bring a double rack if you're ticking that line, otherwise save the weight for extra water. Very warm wall for Red Rock.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Ultraman Wall : Ultraman (5.8+ R)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Dec 21, 2013

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Comments: What a fun route. This is a killer wall, so much better than some of its chossy neighbors.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Ultraman Wall : TR Route (5.6)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Dec 21, 2013

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Comments: As of late 2014, the anchors of this route were replaced with stainless 1/2 inch bolts and Mussy hooks courtesy of the ASCA. Visit their site and make a donation if you enjoy climbing this route and appreciate the beefy hardware. This is now a no-fuss toprope due to the Mussy hooks, it's easy to traverse left a few feet and drop a rope in to set up the TR from Mothra, which is the safest and easiest moderate lead on the wall at this point (minus the cactus).


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Ultraman Wall : Mothra (5.7+)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Dec 21, 2013

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Comments: Red slings at anchor, chains may be added at some point but bringing some spare webbing might be a good idea until that happens. There are two bolts near each other at the stance atop the initial big hollow flake, the lower one went in first and turned out to be a spinner. Until I can remove this and patch the hole, ignore it or clip both if it makes you feel warm+fuzzy. The upper bolt is the solid one.

The initial flake is a rope-eater, moving climbers' left and back away from the cliff will ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Ultraman Wall : Destroy All Monsters (5.10-)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Dec 21, 2013

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Comments: 80M rope allows TR, if you have a single 70, hijinks or a quick traverse right to the anchors of Rodan will allow you to get down.

I really want to stress that a 70 does not make this happen as a TR, and rappelling is only possible by swinging over a significant amount. Knot your rope ends and pay attention. It's a long pitch.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Upper Painted Bowl : Chicken Lips (5.10a) : Photo
By: Cunning Linguist When: Dec 21, 2013

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Comments: That's a cool shot!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Wall of Confusion : Super Guide (5.11a)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Dec 18, 2013

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Comments: Awesome, Adam. Thanks for the effort.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Steel Monkey (5.10+)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Dec 14, 2013

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Comments: Interesting mix of pitches. I wonder if a couple mid sized friends is what most people will use on pitch 2 of the Gobbler. Sounds like sandbaggery to me. Agree on climbing only first few on Dream being lame sauce if you're claiming an ascent. The first half is just cragging :)


Location: Andy Hansen : Climbing : Photo
By: Cunning Linguist When: Dec 11, 2013

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Comments: That's a sick photo.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Kraft Boulders : The Pearl : The Pearl (V4)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Dec 9, 2013

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Comments: ^^^^excellent rain day activity. I find the best conditions on this problem are to be had less than 24 hours after a good rain, judging from above, I'm not alone!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Trophy Wall : Trophy Crack (5.10- V0-1)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Dec 4, 2013

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Comments: No tuck! I'll find it on a wet weather hike shortly, I bet. Here comes the rain...


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Upper Painted Bowl : Chicken Lips (5.10a)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Dec 1, 2013

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Comments: Chicken Lips is completely rebolted with ASCA stainless, all old hardware has been removed and chopped (except a single JU hanger at the start of P4 left to remind future parties of what the former hardware looked like). The Chicken Lips descent as described above by A.A. has also been replaced.

A few thoughts: first, my sincere gratitude to all those who contributed to making this project happen. First of all Greg Barnes, for replacing so much already in Red Rock and making sure that we had al... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Moderate Mecca : Side Effects (5.10b)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Nov 26, 2013

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Comments: Glue ins+calico softness=no more spinners. Anyone game to replace them?


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Graduate Cliff : Acid Jacks (5.11c)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Nov 26, 2013

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Comments: I replaced all the bolts on this one including the anchor a couple of years ago. Use burly ropes for this one-my 10.5 got cut from the sharp edge on the lip of the overhang, that was the end of my rope. If I was climbing on a trust-funded skinny line, might've had to test out my wings that day! A nice line. Old anchor was in fully hollow rock, wonder how many hundreds of people had belayed and rapped off of them before I had the puckering experience of tapping the area with a hammer and realizin... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Crimson Chrysalis (5.8+)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Nov 26, 2013

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Comments: ^^^^That^^^^ makes me feel good. Glad the route finally follows George's original vision. I went back and climbed this again a while ago and thought the finish is a much more pleasant pitch with all the hardware replaced and the last few feet straightened out. The traverse away from the good steep rock over to licheny 'meh'-ness with two crap ancient bolts and more traversing to get back over to the anchor always soured the last few feet for me. If you liked the route, donate to the ASCA.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Cloud Tower (5.12-) : Photo
By: Cunning Linguist When: Nov 18, 2013

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Comments: You think that anchor's bad, you should see some of the ones we've been replacing out here. The single 3/8" bolt at this stance is suffering from galvanic corrosion, the rust spots surrounding the spot where the hanger and stud are in contact suggest that the bolt itself is probably browner than the aftermath of a casino buffet.

Realistically, with three bolts in place, this anchor is unlikely to experience catastrophic failure before being replaced. Back it up with perfect cams or ignore it en... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Blister in the Sun : High Scalin (5.7 PG13)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Nov 18, 2013

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Comments: Not the most solid rock you'll ever climb. Fun adventure though. Bonus summit after topping out has memorable views.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Lower Tier : Solar Flare (5.10-)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Nov 18, 2013

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Comments: I replaced the bad bolts on pitch 1 and chopped the old ones more than a year ago. Careful rapping with a 70 can be done without snags but not the easiest route to rap in the dark. Use care. Route is fun and probably better than the general flavor from the comments would suggest.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Challenger Wall : Adventure Punks (5.10d)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Oct 31, 2013

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Comments: Wylie, maybe it wasn't clear above: there are no pro bolts from the original ascent on this route. Someone with no respect for the integrity of this route added them later, and they should be removed.


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