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Member Since: Feb 15, 2007
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 216
Total Points: 2,514
Last Year: 116
Last 30 Days: 12
79 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 3670 | Routes 92 | Areas 18 | Photos 164 | Page Improvements | Comments 504 | Posts 2760 | Stars 120 | Ratings 12
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : The Rainbow Wall : The Original Route (5.12)
By: Stone Nude When: Jan 10, 2014

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Comments: Alex used the McQuade variation at the start thus avoiding the .12 blankness. Most people do the same.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Labyrinth Wall
By: Stone Nude When: Jan 7, 2014

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Comments: Bolts all over this area, probably for years now. Don't let my chortling get in the way of alpine-style hi-fiving or whatever it is the cool kids are doing these days. Check out Contrail comments for details.

Every now and then, it's just nice to be right.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Burlap Buttress : Poultroonicus aka Moving Ov... (5.10-)
By: Stone Nude When: Jan 7, 2014

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Comments: Nice, man! Thought 11 looked like a classic Grandstaff swindle on that one. Will put this one on the anchor replacement schedule.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Jungle Wall : Jungle Wall (5.11b) : Photo
By: Stone Nude When: Jan 3, 2014

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Comments: High horse sounds like a good route name. Thanks, Doctor Danger.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Triassic Sands (5.10)
By: Stone Nude When: Jan 3, 2014

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Comments: ^^^^THAT is some funny shit. Ev, in your world is there some choss park superintendant that is the person in charge of loose rock maintenance and/or shoring up?

That big fang will never come out. Many, many happy climbers comfortably free this route every year. All of them accept that climbing desert sandstone involves the occasional loose block, on trade routes. Try a few looser, less traveled routes and see if you find Triassic scary. For instance, in terms of loose rock/bad rock, on a scale... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Labyrinth Wall : Jet Stream (5.10a R)
By: Stone Nude When: Jan 2, 2014

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Comments: I am loving the fact that there have been bolts up there for years in light of the discussion happening on the main labyrinth page. Too funny. So essentially your route became part of at least 2 other parties' FA, worried wives club and whatever the bolted line is, or is your route now just bolted, pitch for pitch? Hard to put that together from the comments.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Labyrinth Wall : Jet Stream (5.10a R)
By: Stone Nude When: Dec 26, 2013

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Comments: Right on. What do you use to remove bolts? And were bolts added to your route, or just trade routes like Tunnel and Hot flash that you would prefer not to see retro'd?


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Labyrinth Wall : Jet Stream (5.10a R)
By: Stone Nude When: Dec 25, 2013

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Comments: Hey Dan, Why wait so long to post this thing? Sounds like a good adventure, especially with a stranger.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Steel Monkey (5.10+)
By: Stone Nude When: Dec 23, 2013

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Comments: Tim Wolfe has been doing some linkups like this in Velvet over the last couple of years. A better name than the one posted might follow Tim's method and be "The Yellow Dark Turkey" or something like that. Either way, you guys are thinking outside the box and that's fun,


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Bed of Nails (5.9 PG13)
By: Stone Nude When: Dec 23, 2013

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Comments: Cool to learn who FA'd this and what's on the gear list. I'd always wondered what the story was.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Crunchy Cat (5.8- PG13)
By: Stone Nude When: Dec 23, 2013

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Comments: I thought this route was fine when I did it, just a hell of a lot of burnt webbing up there. Supertopo does indeed have this route confused with Disco. The climbing couldn't be more different...


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Ultraman Wall
By: Stone Nude When: Dec 21, 2013

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Comments: A 70M rope is very helpful on this wall for rapping and being able to TR climbs with groups. 2 ropes are necessary on some of the longest pitches, a 70 and a tag line would let you do pretty much anything. A light rack gets you up everything but The Hex Files, bring a double rack if you're ticking that line, otherwise save the weight for extra water. Very warm wall for Red Rock.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Ultraman Wall : Ultraman (5.8+ R)
By: Stone Nude When: Dec 21, 2013

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Comments: What a fun route. This is a killer wall, so much better than some of its chossy neighbors.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Ultraman Wall : TR Route (5.6)
By: Stone Nude When: Dec 21, 2013

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Comments: As of late 2014, the anchors of this route were replaced with stainless 1/2 inch bolts and Mussy hooks courtesy of the ASCA. Visit their site and make a donation if you enjoy climbing this route and appreciate the beefy hardware. This is now a no-fuss toprope due to the Mussy hooks, it's easy to traverse left a few feet and drop a rope in to set up the TR from Mothra, which is the safest and easiest moderate lead on the wall at this point (minus the cactus).


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Ultraman Wall : Mothra (5.7+)
By: Stone Nude When: Dec 21, 2013

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Comments: Red slings at anchor, chains may be added at some point but bringing some spare webbing might be a good idea until that happens. There are two bolts near each other at the stance atop the initial big hollow flake, the lower one went in first and turned out to be a spinner. Until I can remove this and patch the hole, ignore it or clip both if it makes you feel warm+fuzzy. The upper bolt is the solid one.

The initial flake is a rope-eater, moving climbers' left and back away from the cliff will ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Ultraman Wall : Destroy All Monsters (5.10-)
By: Stone Nude When: Dec 21, 2013

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Comments: 80M rope allows TR, if you have a single 70, hijinks or a quick traverse right to the anchors of Rodan will allow you to get down.

I really want to stress that a 70 does not make this happen as a TR, and rappelling is only possible by swinging over a significant amount. Knot your rope ends and pay attention. It's a long pitch.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Upper Painted Bowl : Chicken Lips (5.10a) : Photo
By: Stone Nude When: Dec 21, 2013

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Comments: That's a cool shot!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Wall of Confusion : Super Guide (5.11a)
By: Stone Nude When: Dec 18, 2013

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Comments: Awesome, Adam. Thanks for the effort.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Steel Monkey (5.10+)
By: Stone Nude When: Dec 14, 2013

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Comments: Interesting mix of pitches. I wonder if a couple mid sized friends is what most people will use on pitch 2 of the Gobbler. Sounds like sandbaggery to me. Agree on climbing only first few on Dream being lame sauce if you're claiming an ascent. The first half is just cragging :)


Location: Andy Hansen : Climbing : Photo
By: Stone Nude When: Dec 11, 2013

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Comments: That's a sick photo.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Kraft Boulders : The Pearl : The Pearl (V4)
By: Stone Nude When: Dec 9, 2013

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Comments: ^^^^excellent rain day activity. I find the best conditions on this problem are to be had less than 24 hours after a good rain, judging from above, I'm not alone!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Trophy Wall : Trophy Crack (5.10- V0-1)
By: Stone Nude When: Dec 4, 2013

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Comments: No tuck! I'll find it on a wet weather hike shortly, I bet. Here comes the rain...


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Upper Painted Bowl : Chicken Lips (5.10a)
By: Stone Nude When: Dec 1, 2013

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Comments: Chicken Lips is completely rebolted with ASCA stainless, all old hardware has been removed and chopped (except a single JU hanger at the start of P4 left to remind future parties of what the former hardware looked like). The Chicken Lips descent as described above by A.A. has also been replaced.

A few thoughts: first, my sincere gratitude to all those who contributed to making this project happen. First of all Greg Barnes, for replacing so much already in Red Rock and making sure that we had al... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Moderate Mecca : Side Effects (5.10b)
By: Stone Nude When: Nov 26, 2013

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Comments: Glue ins+calico softness=no more spinners. Anyone game to replace them?


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Graduate Cliff : Acid Jacks (5.11c)
By: Stone Nude When: Nov 26, 2013

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Comments: I replaced all the bolts on this one including the anchor a couple of years ago. Use burly ropes for this one-my 10.5 got cut from the sharp edge on the lip of the overhang, that was the end of my rope. If I was climbing on a trust-funded skinny line, might've had to test out my wings that day! A nice line. Old anchor was in fully hollow rock, wonder how many hundreds of people had belayed and rapped off of them before I had the puckering experience of tapping the area with a hammer and realizin... more >>


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