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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Return To Forever (5.10d)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Apr 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wendell Broussard: "Those quarter inchers are suicidal, they were bad when the route was new." Fun route, I don't know if Matt saw this or not, but the Punks tried to drill under the roof and broke a bit, which STILL sticks out of a hole right by the crack. I'd reccommend trying other routes until the top anchor gets replaced (ran out of time last day in the area). One option is TRing from Mazatlan anchor til then, but if you fall you'll pendulum a bit. I think some people have rapped Miss Conce... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Romper Room : Girls and Buoys (5.5)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Apr 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Saw an epic on this one this weekend. Not a good lead for inexperienced climbers. Even with long slings, protecting before the traverse will result in nightmare rope drag. Skipping gear before the traverse allows the rope to run over the face as opposed to around the corner and greatly reduces drag. Slick moves near the top tend to paralyze new leaders. Anchor has been upgraded and is fine.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Romper Room : Buzz Buzz (5.4)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Apr 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Saw an epic on this one this weekend. Not a good lead for inexperienced climbers.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Romper Room : Hall of Mirrors (5.10c PG13)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Apr 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route IS on the Romper Room Wall, and looks great. It is the obvious extension to Doobie Dance, which is ten feet LEFT of Romper Room 5.7.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Romper Room : Romper Room (5.7)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Apr 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun, fun route. Well worth checking out.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Romper Room : Magic Mirror (5.5)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Apr 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Can rap with 1 FULL 70M rope, *no less*. If rapping with a 70, bear left over Kindergarden Cop and land on top of boulder pile just beneath K.C.'s starting roof. Do not attempt to lower with less than an 80M rope or rap with 2 ropes (preferred). Anchor has been replaced, it's on the left about 10-15 feet below the top of the crack in the tan rock.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Romper Room
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Apr 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Having spent a few days at this cliff over the last 2 years and performed several rescues on the easiest rated routes in the area, I have to say:
NOT A GOOD PLACE FOR A FIRST TIME LEADER TO GET THEIR FEET WET!
Slick rock, traverses, awkward slopey grey rock movement, some hollow rock, lack of continuous cracks to take gear on the 5.4-.5s-let's just say that rescuing newbies can be a drag. Leaders setting up TRs will find this a fine spot to teach new climbers, but first time leads? Go over to ... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Romper Room : Kindergarten Cop (5.7+)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Apr 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Replaced all bolts and moved anchor slightly left for better pull and easier visual location. Hadn't climbed this rig in years, but have to agree-really, really fun pitch. You can JUST BARELY rap from the brand new stainless (old anchor was hilarious, 3 homemade cold shut spinners-total newbie diaper-loader) to the starting boulder pile with a FULL 70M rope. Lowering with a single rope is a bad idea unless you dragged an 80M. I think the black face climbs to the right are pretty rad, too, but if... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Refrigerator Wall : La Cierta Edad (5.10d)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Apr 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this route again recently, my partner called it 9+. Substantial amount of hollow rock on upper crack of P2 got my attention; an extra #4 might have made that section feel more solid-still doesn't feel all that well cleaned, holds will break, heads up. "10a" 3rd pitch still felt 10a to me, mainly awkward for my body size (5.10 165). My two smaller female partners cruised it and thought tough nine was right on. The "10d" crux above is for sure 5.9 for my body+technique@SEMICOLO... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Wake-Up Wall : Monkey Rhythm (5.10+)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Apr 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Update: Did this again today, replaced anchors with bomber ASCA stainless with prudent white-rock spacing. Rock is still crunchy, but a fun lead. Around 9+ not 10+, maybe 10- if you're not up on white rock technique. Double rack to .75 is recommended, wires protect well on this one also, but are tougher to spot. Route has lots of gear but is still shedding holds including in the gear placements; PG-13 for sure, be careful on this one, but it's fun and well worth it!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Wake-Up Wall : The Big Short (5.8)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Apr 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's to the right of skid mark. Unexpectedly fun!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Wake-Up Wall : The Last Drag (5.10a)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Apr 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agreed, Mr Moore. Nice route, Bondo. Out of all the new ones, this was most worthy. Fun times.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Cloud Tower (5.12-)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Mar 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Post deleted because I was being a heinous cunt. What I should have said was:
Thanks for the bolt count update. I'll contact the FA party and see what they have to say on how they'd like the replacement effort to be handled. Thanks to all ASCA re-bolters for their efforts.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Upper Painted Bowl : Chicken Lips (5.10a)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Mar 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Chicken Lips is wise to avoid until the first five pitches are fully replaced. 1/4 inch bolts that are 30+ years old are snapping under hand pressure, and will not hold even a short fall.
The possibility exists to rip all pro bolts on P4 and take the rusted out anchor and your attached belayer with you. Climb at your own risk. We experienced a partial anchor failure and a boulder popping out of a crack, nearly killing a member of our party. The route has aesthetic value, but isn't worth gettin... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : The Clod Tower (5.10c)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Mar 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I feel you, Jon. I've looked at this one a dozen times, that splitter looks SWEET but not having the slightest idea what's in store above has kept me off of it. Could be epic gully hell from the looks of it, it's been tucked behind Pachyderm on my list for a long while. You should holler at me if you're into checking out Fist or Flips sometime-hear that one's MEAN...
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Challenger Wall : X-15 (5.11a R)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Mar 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for your effort on the replacement, Josh.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Challenger Wall : Enterprise (5.11a R)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Mar 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: That's rad, Josh. Thanks for doing that.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Civilization Crags : Evil Empire (5.11)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Mar 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Glad this thing's getting done!
Darren, I almost called it 10d, but all the comments I got from people who'd tried it said same ballpark as Saved By Zero but more of a bouldery feel. I took the middle road, feels like Red Rock V3/4 on gear to me. I liked the small cams right after the wide section and above the swoosh. Everyone seems to really dig the #2 and .75 placements on this one, too. I belayed a friend the other day who placed a full set of C3s as well as up to a #4.
Mike, ... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Challenger Wall : Adventure Punks (5.10d)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Mar 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm so gay for this route....
I've seen strong 5.10 trad daddies sketch out and struggle on the first pitch. The initial pro is AFTER 5.9 cruxing, is bunk 00 tcus and small wires in a hollow, 1/2-3/4 inch thick bongo flake. The gear on this pitch is consistently hollow, gongy stuff. It's beautiful and fun but no joke. It's by far the easiest on the route physically if not mentally though, so if you're not able to pull the moves I'd downclimb and move on with your life. Not every route's for eve... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Black Orpheus Amphitheater : Offset Corners (5.11b)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Mar 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Second the motion. You are the king of shit no one's gotten around to, I thought I had a shot at that title, but I concede. Interesting that it looks like a Tupper route, I hadn't guessed those guys might've put it up.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : The Monument : Desert Gold (5.13a PG13)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Feb 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first pitch is trivial. Linking the top 2 is the business, and I'd imagine most people do it that way since the stance below P2 is decent. Avoiding superfluous rope drag and having your belayer close enough to keep you tight-ish on the steeps seem like good calls, as well.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Upper Painted Bowl : Chicken Lips (5.10a) : Photo
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Feb 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is really useful information. Worth printing, and adding to the Solar Slab topout descent beta.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Kraft Crags : Semi-Professional Moron (5.10a)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Feb 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: You, sir, are the Ralph Nader of Red Rock. What a pleasing moderate solution. Let me know if you need any dynamite for the cleaning-still got some left over from Christmas...
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Front Corridor : Monster Skank (5.13b)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Feb 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: "Working" sounds like a lot of work to me.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Kraft Crags : Shark Attack (5.9+ PG13)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Feb 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This shit is SOOOOOOO cool. Seriously. Wondered a dozen times what it would be like to crawl up into the belly of the beast.
Rad that you guys got it done! Pink rock mafia!
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