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Book me, officer.


Member Since: Feb 15, 2007
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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Point Rank: # 208
Total Points: 2,457
Last Year: 218
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 3344 | Routes 90 | Areas 18 | Photos 164 | Page Improvments | Comments 467 | Posts 2483 | Stars 114 | Ratings 8
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Ultraman Wall : TR Route (5.7)
By: Zappatista When: Dec 21, 2013

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Comments: Bolts are uneven and have metolius hangers with single quick links attached. Using a long sling to equalize for toproping is probably best, rappelling from single quicklinks may be more of a pain than traversing left or right to another anchor close by and rapping with a 70.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Ultraman Wall : Mothra (5.7+)
By: Zappatista When: Dec 21, 2013

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Comments: Red slings at anchor, chains may be added at some point but bringing some spare webbing might be a good idea until that happens. There are two bolts near each other at the stance atop the initial big hollow flake, the lower one went in first and turned out to be a spinner. Until I can remove this and patch the hole, ignore it or clip both if it makes you feel warm+fuzzy. The upper bolt is the solid one.

The initial flake is a rope-eater, moving climbers' left and back away from the cliff will ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Ultraman Wall : Destroy All Monsters (5.10-)
By: Zappatista When: Dec 21, 2013

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Comments: Blue slings at anchor, feel free to add chains if you're into that. Wall gets sun so bringing a bit of webbing in case the anchor's getting bleached is probably a good idea. 80M rope allows TR, if you have a single 70, hijinks or a quick traverse right to the anchors of Rodan will allow you to get down.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Upper Painted Bowl : Chicken Lips (5.10a) : Photo
By: Zappatista When: Dec 21, 2013

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Comments: That's a cool shot!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Wall of Confusion : Super Guide (5.11a)
By: Zappatista When: Dec 18, 2013

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Comments: Awesome, Adam. Thanks for the effort.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Steel Monkey (5.10+)
By: Zappatista When: Dec 14, 2013

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Comments: Interesting mix of pitches. I wonder if a couple mid sized friends is what most people will use on pitch 2 of the Gobbler. Sounds like sandbaggery to me. Agree on climbing only first few on Dream being lame sauce if you're claiming an ascent. The first half is just cragging :)


Location: Andy Hansen : Climbing : Photo
By: Zappatista When: Dec 11, 2013

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Comments: That's a sick photo.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Kraft Boulders : The Pearl : The Pearl (V4)
By: Zappatista When: Dec 9, 2013

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Comments: ^^^^excellent rain day activity. I find the best conditions on this problem are to be had less than 24 hours after a good rain, judging from above, I'm not alone!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Trophy Wall : Trophy Crack (5.10- V0-1)
By: Zappatista When: Dec 4, 2013

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Comments: No tuck! I'll find it on a wet weather hike shortly, I bet. Here comes the rain...


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Upper Painted Bowl : Chicken Lips (5.10a)
By: Zappatista When: Dec 1, 2013

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Comments: Chicken Lips is completely rebolted with ASCA stainless, all old hardware has been removed and chopped (except a single JU hanger at the start of P4 left to remind future parties of what the former hardware looked like). The Chicken Lips descent as described above by A.A. has also been replaced.

A few thoughts: first, my sincere gratitude to all those who contributed to making this project happen. First of all Greg Barnes, for replacing so much already in Red Rock and making sure that we had al... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Moderate Mecca : Side Effects (5.10b)
By: Zappatista When: Nov 26, 2013

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Comments: Glue ins+calico softness=no more spinners. Anyone game to replace them?


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Graduate Cliff : Acid Jacks (5.11c)
By: Zappatista When: Nov 26, 2013

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Comments: I replaced all the bolts on this one including the anchor a couple of years ago. Use burly ropes for this one-my 10.5 got cut from the sharp edge on the lip of the overhang, that was the end of my rope. If I was climbing on a trust-funded skinny line, might've had to test out my wings that day! A nice line. Old anchor was in fully hollow rock, wonder how many hundreds of people had belayed and rapped off of them before I had the puckering experience of tapping the area with a hammer and realizin... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Crimson Chrysalis (5.8+)
By: Zappatista When: Nov 26, 2013

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Comments: ^^^^That^^^^ makes me feel good. Glad the route finally follows George's original vision. I went back and climbed this again a while ago and thought the finish is a much more pleasant pitch with all the hardware replaced and the last few feet straightened out. The traverse away from the good steep rock over to licheny 'meh'-ness with two crap ancient bolts and more traversing to get back over to the anchor always soured the last few feet for me. If you liked the route, donate to the ASCA.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Cloud Tower (5.12-) : Photo
By: Zappatista When: Nov 18, 2013

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Comments: You think that anchor's bad, you should see some of the ones we've been replacing out here. The single 3/8" bolt at this stance is suffering from galvanic corrosion, the rust spots surrounding the spot where the hanger and stud are in contact suggest that the bolt itself is probably browner than the aftermath of a casino buffet.

Realistically, with three bolts in place, this anchor is unlikely to experience catastrophic failure before being replaced. Back it up with perfect cams or ignore it en... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Blister in the Sun : High Scalin (5.7 PG13)
By: Zappatista When: Nov 18, 2013

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Comments: Not the most solid rock you'll ever climb. Fun adventure though. Bonus summit after topping out has memorable views.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Lower Tier : Solar Flare (5.10-)
By: Zappatista When: Nov 18, 2013

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Comments: I replaced the bad bolts on pitch 1 and chopped the old ones more than a year ago. Careful rapping with a 70 can be done without snags but not the easiest route to rap in the dark. Use care. Route is fun and probably better than the general flavor from the comments would suggest.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Challenger Wall : Adventure Punks (5.10d)
By: Zappatista When: Oct 31, 2013

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Comments: Wylie, maybe it wasn't clear above: there are no pro bolts from the original ascent on this route. Someone with no respect for the integrity of this route added them later, and they should be removed.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Prince of Darkness (5.10c) : Photo
By: Zappatista When: Oct 23, 2013

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Comments: Why do I love this so much?


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Peyote Cracks Formation : Peyote Cracks Formation - E... : Moonbeam Crack (5.13a PG13)
By: Zappatista When: Oct 18, 2013

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Comments: Kurt smith is way under 5'9". If he got it, it's not a reach issue.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Frigid Air Buttress Boulder... : Episode One (V1) : Photo
By: Zappatista When: Oct 18, 2013

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Comments: I'm impressed that a couple of adults are posting pictures of themselves scrambling over graffiti they put on boulders in the canyons. Strong work. Look behind the red shirt on the right. Stay classy.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Frigid Air Buttress Boulder... : Breaking the Ice (V0-1)
By: Zappatista When: Oct 18, 2013

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Comments: That is contrived. Desperation breeds strange ideals. Use those holds and a one legged man could do this barefoot carrying a stretcher.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Frigid Air Buttress Boulder...
By: Zappatista When: Oct 18, 2013

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Comments: None of these claimed FAs are new routes. Climbers have routinely done these lines approaching frigidaire since the 70s. Rule of thumb:if the 'fa' takes place on the approach to a popular climb, looks decent, and can be done in approach shoes, *they've been done before*. One of these lines has been led on gear for practice, I've scrambled the same line with a pack on, and I'm sure I'm not the only one.

Probably just old-man-itis here, but I miss the days before every day of hiking and explorat... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Trophy Wall : Trophy Crack (5.10- V0-1)
By: Zappatista When: Oct 2, 2013

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Comments: Better/more detailed directions, please.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Burlap Buttress : Arch Rival (5.11d)
By: Zappatista When: Sep 27, 2013

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Comments: Jeez, man, glad you're still with us!

PS this story is a great example of how bolts are a really bad idea in soft sandstone. They should make them illegal or something. Hope some bolt fairy adds a second up there. Based on the description, I'm avoiding this one.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : The Rainbow Wall : The Original Route (5.12)
By: Zappatista When: Sep 16, 2013

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Comments: That bolt has been gone for a long time. A 2 lobe C3 takes weight for the move left but that section made me remember that the original rating was A4. After Henson's bolts were removed, maybe it's a bit more than A2 staying on the original line if you're pulling on gear.


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