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Member Since: Feb 15, 2007
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
Contact SexPanther aka Kiedis


Point Rank: # 199
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Where has SexPanther aka Kiedis been climbing?










SexPanther aka Kiedis

 
Contributions

Contributions


All (3188) | Routes (90) | Areas (18) | Photos (164) | Comments (456) | Posts (2340) | Stars (112) | Ratings (8)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Cloud Tower (5.12-) : Photo
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: Nov 18, 2013

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Comments: You think that anchor's bad, you should see some of the ones we've been replacing out here. The single 3/8" bolt at this stance is suffering from galvanic corrosion, the rust spots surrounding the spot where the hanger and stud are in contact suggest that the bolt itself is probably browner than the aftermath of a casino buffet.

Realistically, with three bolts in place, this anchor is unlikely to experience catastrophic failure before being replaced. Back it up with perfect cams or ignore it en... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Blister in the Sun : High Scalin (5.7 PG13)
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: Nov 18, 2013

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Comments: Not the most solid rock you'll ever climb. Fun adventure though. Bonus summit after topping out has memorable views.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Lower Tier : Solar Flare (5.10-)
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: Nov 18, 2013

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Comments: I replaced the bad bolts on pitch 1 and chopped the old ones more than a year ago. Careful rapping with a 70 can be done without snags but not the easiest route to rap in the dark. Use care. Route is fun and probably better than the general flavor from the comments would suggest.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Challenger Wall : Adventure Punks (5.10d)
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: Oct 31, 2013

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Comments: Wylie, maybe it wasn't clear above: there are no pro bolts from the original ascent on this route. Someone with no respect for the integrity of this route added them later, and they should be removed.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Prince of Darkness (5.10c) : Photo
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: Oct 23, 2013

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Comments: Why do I love this so much?


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Peyote Cracks Formation : Peyote Cracks Formation - E... : Moonbeam Crack (5.13a PG13)
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: Oct 18, 2013

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Comments: Kurt smith is way under 5'9". If he got it, it's not a reach issue.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Frigid Air Buttress Boulder... : Episode One (V1) : Photo
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: Oct 18, 2013

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Comments: I'm impressed that a couple of adults are posting pictures of themselves scrambling over graffiti they put on boulders in the canyons. Strong work. Look behind the red shirt on the right. Stay classy.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Frigid Air Buttress Boulder... : Breaking the Ice (V0-1)
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: Oct 18, 2013

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Comments: That is contrived. Desperation breeds strange ideals. Use those holds and a one legged man could do this barefoot carrying a stretcher.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Frigid Air Buttress Boulder...
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: Oct 18, 2013

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Comments: None of these claimed FAs are new routes. Climbers have routinely done these lines approaching frigidaire since the 70s. Rule of thumb:if the 'fa' takes place on the approach to a popular climb, looks decent, and can be done in approach shoes, *they've been done before*. One of these lines has been led on gear for practice, I've scrambled the same line with a pack on, and I'm sure I'm not the only one.

Probably just old-man-itis here, but I miss the days before every day of hiking and explorat... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Trophy Wall : Trophy Crack (5.10- V0-1)
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: Oct 2, 2013

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Comments: Better/more detailed directions, please.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Burlap Buttress : Arch Rival (5.11d)
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: Sep 27, 2013

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Comments: Jeez, man, glad you're still with us!

PS this story is a great example of how bolts are a really bad idea in soft sandstone. They should make them illegal or something. Hope some bolt fairy adds a second up there. Based on the description, I'm avoiding this one.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : The Rainbow Wall : The Original Route (5.12)
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: Sep 16, 2013

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Comments: That bolt has been gone for a long time. A 2 lobe C3 takes weight for the move left but that section made me remember that the original rating was A4. After Henson's bolts were removed, maybe it's a bit more than A2 staying on the original line if you're pulling on gear.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Lone Star (5.11) : Photo
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: Sep 6, 2013

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Comments: Xavier, if you check out Ben's profile, he's got 3,000+ contributions. Un-trollish, esp as he's contributed stacks of routes to the database, a step seldom taken by those who live under bridges. You'll notice that every fifth comment is helmet-related, and as you say, it's a gettable point being made. Irony here: my first thought when I saw this photo way back when I was green as grass to Red Rock was: "wow, Tom and Brian are climbing some rad-looking shit! Can't wait to do that one! No helmets ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Necromancer Wall
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: Aug 27, 2013

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Comments: Rap descent works best with a 70, eliminates downclimbing and hijinks. There are two different starts to the rappels, one which starts by downclimbing East (climber's left) to an exposed traverse and stance to rap off of a slung boulder and tree. The other involves going up a short wall, heading left, and dropping down to a large tree. The latter would be a better choice if with a skittish second, a shorter rope, or a combination of the two.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Necromancer Wall : Unknown 10a (5.10a)
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: Aug 27, 2013

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Comments: This route's been in existence as long as I've been in Vegas and then some, the previous anchor was getting rusted as hell and thus got replaced last year with stainless ASCA rings+brand new bolts. No gear's needed other than draws, a #9 stopper can be placed but it's in the way of a good hold, so probably better to avoid placing it. There are some wide stems and cool moves this baby-cost me a pair of pants to flash it, ended up flashing my belayer, too. Worthwhile if you're in the area. S... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Fairview Dome : Regular Route (5.9)
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: Jul 30, 2013

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Comments: My first good-sized route at the Meadows. Rack was single wires, single rack to 4 with some extra small cams to .75ish, don't forget the med-lg offset wires, they go in everywhere. Crux is short-maybe 3 moves of legit .9, look for feet on your left, don't stress the wet locks-there are a lot more coming when it goes to hands just above, but easier by far. 2nd pitch was most sustained and nerve-wracking; very greasy, smarmy feel. A lot of .8 move to .8 move to .8 move, more actual rock ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : The Schwa Area : The Schwa (5.10d)
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: Jul 25, 2013

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Comments: I know some rogue hoes who post here on the REG, son. They fear the wide, whereas others saddle up and ride...


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Cannibal Crag : Baseboy (Bolted Variation) (5.11b)
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: Jul 25, 2013

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Comments: ^^^^^With so much drama in tha LBC, it must be hard still bein just Danger D, but he, somehow someway, keep comin up with funky ass shit like every single day! I second the real real on the real, dawg.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Ragged Edges Area
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: May 17, 2013

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Comments: He means that Joe Herbst, Mark Moore, Jon Martinet, Matt McMackin, Nick Nordblom, Randall Grandstaff, Jeff Lansing, John Landaker, Jim Whitesell, Richard Harrison, Wendell Broussard, Paul Van Betten, John Bachar, and Sal Mamusia don't get the whole Yosemite Decimal System.

I don't think anyone really understands the Yosemite Decimal System, so maybe ol' Sax is onto something here. Though getting spanked at the Springs is a pretty unusual thing. He must've trusted the wrong description of Aikid... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Ragged Edges Area : Aikido Gun Boy (5.11+ R)
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: May 15, 2013

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Comments: That's correct. I haven't had your full pants.

Time to start lighting candles in churches..


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : The Fringe : Open Project (5.13)
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: Apr 21, 2013

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Comments: No pics? Damn, Mike, am I going to have to walk all the way up there to realize this is too much work for me?

On a serious note, cool of you to post up an open project. Most sportos out here would probably have just "added holds", and claimed it at whatever reduced grade. Looking forward to getting out there and checking it out. Thanks for making the effort. Civilization is cleaning up and getting better and better these days.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Challenger Wall : Adventure Punks (5.10d)
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: Apr 14, 2013

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Comments: The "direct start" is a 5.9 move, there's only one move on the first pitch that I thought even rated 10a. Traversing in looked like way more of a pain in the ass and more of an attempt to avoid the nature of the route than much "safer", seeing as the possibility of a good-sized swinging fall and lack of a clear route burn time and psych that could be better put to use higher on the route where the real challenges lie. If you can't handle a .9 groundfall possibility on good rock, there are a lot ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Epinephrine (5.9)
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: Apr 14, 2013

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Comments: This route can be a shitshow on weekends and holidays, plan to be there earlier than anything else I can think of, other than maybe Crimson.

This is not a good route to learn how to chimney on. This is not a route to haul your school backpack up. This is not a good route to try with an unfamiliar partner. This is not a route to drag your girlfriend up when she is still learning how to tie a figure 8. This is not a route to do if you are trying to be courteous to slower parties in front of you-... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Straight Shooter Wall : Orange Clonus (5.10d)
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: Apr 12, 2013

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Comments: Ixtlan's stout, that doesn't make all other routes easier by some arcane algebra.

A route with a hard move gets rated as its hardest move. A route with a few dozen hard moves can still be that same grade, or, if you're at the Red, 13c.

That first pitch is a finger-wrecking mean mutha. Call it 5.2 if it makes you feel better. I'm not buying it.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : The Hamlet
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: Apr 10, 2013

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Comments: ^^^^Impossible. The rock is super solid and the first ascentionists discriminating about where bolts and routes themselves are placed.

Sarcasm, for those who didn't catch that.


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