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Member Since: Feb 15, 2007
Last Visit: 6 hours ago
Contact SexPanther aka Kiedis


Point Rank: # 199
Total Points: 2,446
Last Year: 240
Last 30 Days: 42
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Where has SexPanther aka Kiedis been climbing?










SexPanther aka Kiedis

 
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All (3188) | Routes (90) | Areas (18) | Photos (164) | Comments (456) | Posts (2340) | Stars (112) | Ratings (8)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Labyrinth Wall
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: Jan 7, 2014

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Comments: Bolts all over this area, probably for years now. Don't let my chortling get in the way of alpine-style hi-fiving or whatever it is the cool kids are doing these days. Check out Contrail comments for details.

Every now and then, it's just nice to be right.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Burlap Buttress : Poultroonicus aka Moving Ov... (5.10-)
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: Jan 7, 2014

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Comments: Nice, man! Thought 11 looked like a classic Grandstaff swindle on that one. Will put this one on the anchor replacement schedule.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Jungle Wall : Jungle Wall (5.11b) : Photo
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: Jan 3, 2014

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Comments: High horse sounds like a good route name. Thanks, Doctor Danger.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Triassic Sands (5.10)
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: Jan 3, 2014

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Comments: ^^^^THAT is some funny shit. Ev, in your world is there some choss park superintendant that is the person in charge of loose rock maintenance and/or shoring up?

That big fang will never come out. Many, many happy climbers comfortably free this route every year. All of them accept that climbing desert sandstone involves the occasional loose block, on trade routes. Try a few looser, less traveled routes and see if you find Triassic scary. For instance, in terms of loose rock/bad rock, on a scale... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Labyrinth Wall : Jet Stream (5.10a R)
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: Jan 2, 2014

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Comments: I am loving the fact that there have been bolts up there for years in light of the discussion happening on the main labyrinth page. Too funny. So essentially your route became part of at least 2 other parties' FA, worried wives club and whatever the bolted line is, or is your route now just bolted, pitch for pitch? Hard to put that together from the comments.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Labyrinth Wall : Jet Stream (5.10a R)
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: Dec 26, 2013

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Comments: Right on. What do you use to remove bolts? And were bolts added to your route, or just trade routes like Tunnel and Hot flash that you would prefer not to see retro'd?


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Labyrinth Wall : Jet Stream (5.10a R)
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: Dec 25, 2013

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Comments: Hey Dan, Why wait so long to post this thing? Sounds like a good adventure, especially with a stranger.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Steel Monkey (5.10+)
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: Dec 23, 2013

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Comments: Tim Wolfe has been doing some linkups like this in Velvet over the last couple of years. A better name than the one posted might follow Tim's method and be "The Yellow Dark Turkey" or something like that. Either way, you guys are thinking outside the box and that's fun,


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Bed of Nails (5.9 PG13)
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: Dec 23, 2013

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Comments: Cool to learn who FA'd this and what's on the gear list. I'd always wondered what the story was.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Crunchy Cat (5.8- PG13)
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: Dec 23, 2013

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Comments: I thought this route was fine when I did it, just a hell of a lot of burnt webbing up there. Supertopo does indeed have this route confused with Disco. The climbing couldn't be more different...


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Ultraman Wall
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: Dec 21, 2013

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Comments: A 70M rope is very helpful on this wall for rapping and being able to TR climbs with groups. 2 ropes are necessary on some of the longest pitches, a 70 and a tag line would let you do pretty much anything. A light rack gets you up everything but The Hex Files, bring a double rack if you're ticking that line, otherwise save the weight for extra water. Very warm wall for Red Rock.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Ultraman Wall : Ultraman (5.8+ R)
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: Dec 21, 2013

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Comments: What a fun route. This is a killer wall, so much better than some of its chossy neighbors.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Ultraman Wall : TR Route (5.7)
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: Dec 21, 2013

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Comments: Bolts are uneven and have metolius hangers with single quick links attached. Using a long sling to equalize for toproping is probably best, rappelling from single quicklinks may be more of a pain than traversing left or right to another anchor close by and rapping with a 70.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Ultraman Wall : Mothra (5.7+)
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: Dec 21, 2013

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Comments: Red slings at anchor, chains may be added at some point but bringing some spare webbing might be a good idea until that happens. There are two bolts near each other at the stance atop the initial big hollow flake, the lower one went in first and turned out to be a spinner. Until I can remove this and patch the hole, ignore it or clip both if it makes you feel warm+fuzzy. The upper bolt is the solid one.

The initial flake is a rope-eater, moving climbers' left and back away from the cliff will ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Ultraman Wall : Destroy All Monsters (5.10-)
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: Dec 21, 2013

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Comments: Blue slings at anchor, feel free to add chains if you're into that. Wall gets sun so bringing a bit of webbing in case the anchor's getting bleached is probably a good idea. 80M rope allows TR, if you have a single 70, hijinks or a quick traverse right to the anchors of Rodan will allow you to get down.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Upper Painted Bowl : Chicken Lips (5.10a) : Photo
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: Dec 21, 2013

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Comments: That's a cool shot!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Wall of Confusion : Super Guide (5.11a)
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: Dec 18, 2013

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Comments: Awesome, Adam. Thanks for the effort.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Steel Monkey (5.10+)
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: Dec 14, 2013

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Comments: Interesting mix of pitches. I wonder if a couple mid sized friends is what most people will use on pitch 2 of the Gobbler. Sounds like sandbaggery to me. Agree on climbing only first few on Dream being lame sauce if you're claiming an ascent. The first half is just cragging :)


Location: Andy Hansen : Climbing : Photo
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: Dec 11, 2013

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Comments: That's a sick photo.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Kraft Boulders : The Pearl : The Pearl (V4)
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: Dec 9, 2013

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Comments: ^^^^excellent rain day activity. I find the best conditions on this problem are to be had less than 24 hours after a good rain, judging from above, I'm not alone!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Trophy Wall : Trophy Crack (5.10- V0-1)
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: Dec 4, 2013

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Comments: No tuck! I'll find it on a wet weather hike shortly, I bet. Here comes the rain...


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Upper Painted Bowl : Chicken Lips (5.10a)
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: Dec 1, 2013

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Comments: Chicken Lips is completely rebolted with ASCA stainless, all old hardware has been removed and chopped (except a single JU hanger at the start of P4 left to remind future parties of what the former hardware looked like). The Chicken Lips descent as described above by A.A. has also been replaced.

A few thoughts: first, my sincere gratitude to all those who contributed to making this project happen. First of all Greg Barnes, for replacing so much already in Red Rock and making sure that we had al... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Moderate Mecca : Side Effects (5.10b)
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: Nov 26, 2013

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Comments: Glue ins+calico softness=no more spinners. Anyone game to replace them?


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Graduate Cliff : Acid Jacks (5.11c)
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: Nov 26, 2013

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Comments: I replaced all the bolts on this one including the anchor a couple of years ago. Use burly ropes for this one-my 10.5 got cut from the sharp edge on the lip of the overhang, that was the end of my rope. If I was climbing on a trust-funded skinny line, might've had to test out my wings that day! A nice line. Old anchor was in fully hollow rock, wonder how many hundreds of people had belayed and rapped off of them before I had the puckering experience of tapping the area with a hammer and realizin... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Crimson Chrysalis (5.8+)
By: SexPanther aka Kiedis When: Nov 26, 2013

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Comments: ^^^^That^^^^ makes me feel good. Glad the route finally follows George's original vision. I went back and climbed this again a while ago and thought the finish is a much more pleasant pitch with all the hardware replaced and the last few feet straightened out. The traverse away from the good steep rock over to licheny 'meh'-ness with two crap ancient bolts and more traversing to get back over to the anchor always soured the last few feet for me. If you liked the route, donate to the ASCA.


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