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Book me, officer.


Member Since: Feb 15, 2007
Last Visit: 9 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 206
Total Points: 2,457
Last Year: 226
Last 30 Days: 5
51 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Zappatista been climbing?










Contributions


All 3317 | Routes 90 | Areas 18 | Photos 164 | Page Improvments | Comments 467 | Posts 2457 | Stars 113 | Ratings 8
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Upper Painted Bowl : Chicken Lips (5.10a)
By: Zappatista When: Jan 26, 2014

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Comments: That is great to hear. This thing is way off the beaten path, really nice to know it's getting done now. Makes that $!&@/:;-?!$ing bivy slightly more worth it.:) I like the idea of heading down to the BO raps. I bet a picture with a line on it would help popularize that descent option. Seems like it would go faster.

I've never done that last pitch in the daytime; this was always a 'work route' rather than a pleasure cruise. I can assure you that having the wide stuff on the... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Magic Mountain : Five and Dime (5.10b)
By: Zappatista When: Jan 21, 2014

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Comments: Buuuuurrrrrrllllly.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Magic Mountain : Cartwright Corner (5.10)
By: Zappatista When: Jan 21, 2014

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Comments: I notice that there is literally no description for this route whatsoever. Helpful.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Magic Mountain : Chocolate flakes (5.10d)
By: Zappatista When: Jan 21, 2014

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Comments: What'd you think as far as gear? Worth bringing big stuff? If Jon was wishing for it, I bet us small frys will be double puckered. How's the fixed anchor condition?


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Burlap Buttress : Children of the Sun 10b (5.10b)
By: Zappatista When: Jan 20, 2014

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Comments: Sweet, man! Wendell told me I should get on this thing but that it needed serious bolt work. How did the hardware look to you?


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Panty Wall : Panty Line (5.10a R)
By: Zappatista When: Jan 12, 2014

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Comments: A fun solo, but rounded at the top.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Panty Wall : Black Lace (5.8)
By: Zappatista When: Jan 12, 2014

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Comments: Cool route, Dan. Like the anchor. Like the soap opera over the bolt color even more. Chuckled about that all the way up. Thanks for the effort you put in to get new lines up.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Ultraman Wall : Speed Racer (5.8+ X)
By: Zappatista When: Jan 12, 2014

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Comments: I was told by a longtime local that this route was lead on gear before it was bolted.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Ultraman Wall : Godzilla (5.7)
By: Zappatista When: Jan 12, 2014

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Comments: Fun climbing but runout. Looks like a retrobolt job to me, some way old bolts, some only a few years old. Some gear placements cut down on the runouts.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Janes Wall : Mannish Boys (5.11-)
By: Zappatista When: Jan 12, 2014

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Comments: Fun route, well protected. 2nd bolt spinning.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Janes Wall : Half Baked (5.9+)
By: Zappatista When: Jan 12, 2014

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Comments: Crux bolt is badly placed and hard to clip from the climbing line. Right anchor bolt not great either. Decent climbing but hardware could use some work.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Stratocaster Area : Unknown (5.10d) : Photo
By: Zappatista When: Jan 12, 2014

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Comments: Really nice pic.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : The Rainbow Wall : The Original Route (5.12)
By: Zappatista When: Jan 10, 2014

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Comments: Alex used the McQuade variation at the start thus avoiding the .12 blankness. Most people do the same.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Labyrinth Wall
By: Zappatista When: Jan 7, 2014

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Comments: Bolts all over this area, probably for years now. Don't let my chortling get in the way of alpine-style hi-fiving or whatever it is the cool kids are doing these days. Check out Contrail comments for details.

Every now and then, it's just nice to be right.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Burlap Buttress : Poultroonicus aka Moving Ov... (5.10-)
By: Zappatista When: Jan 7, 2014

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Comments: Nice, man! Thought 11 looked like a classic Grandstaff swindle on that one. Will put this one on the anchor replacement schedule.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Jungle Wall : Jungle Wall (5.11b) : Photo
By: Zappatista When: Jan 3, 2014

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Comments: High horse sounds like a good route name. Thanks, Doctor Danger.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Triassic Sands (5.10)
By: Zappatista When: Jan 3, 2014

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Comments: ^^^^THAT is some funny shit. Ev, in your world is there some choss park superintendant that is the person in charge of loose rock maintenance and/or shoring up?

That big fang will never come out. Many, many happy climbers comfortably free this route every year. All of them accept that climbing desert sandstone involves the occasional loose block, on trade routes. Try a few looser, less traveled routes and see if you find Triassic scary. For instance, in terms of loose rock/bad rock, on a scale... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Labyrinth Wall : Jet Stream (5.10a R)
By: Zappatista When: Jan 2, 2014

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Comments: I am loving the fact that there have been bolts up there for years in light of the discussion happening on the main labyrinth page. Too funny. So essentially your route became part of at least 2 other parties' FA, worried wives club and whatever the bolted line is, or is your route now just bolted, pitch for pitch? Hard to put that together from the comments.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Labyrinth Wall : Jet Stream (5.10a R)
By: Zappatista When: Dec 26, 2013

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Comments: Right on. What do you use to remove bolts? And were bolts added to your route, or just trade routes like Tunnel and Hot flash that you would prefer not to see retro'd?


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Labyrinth Wall : Jet Stream (5.10a R)
By: Zappatista When: Dec 25, 2013

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Comments: Hey Dan, Why wait so long to post this thing? Sounds like a good adventure, especially with a stranger.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Steel Monkey (5.10+)
By: Zappatista When: Dec 23, 2013

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Comments: Tim Wolfe has been doing some linkups like this in Velvet over the last couple of years. A better name than the one posted might follow Tim's method and be "The Yellow Dark Turkey" or something like that. Either way, you guys are thinking outside the box and that's fun,


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Bed of Nails (5.9 PG13)
By: Zappatista When: Dec 23, 2013

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Comments: Cool to learn who FA'd this and what's on the gear list. I'd always wondered what the story was.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Crunchy Cat (5.8- PG13)
By: Zappatista When: Dec 23, 2013

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Comments: I thought this route was fine when I did it, just a hell of a lot of burnt webbing up there. Supertopo does indeed have this route confused with Disco. The climbing couldn't be more different...


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Ultraman Wall
By: Zappatista When: Dec 21, 2013

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Comments: A 70M rope is very helpful on this wall for rapping and being able to TR climbs with groups. 2 ropes are necessary on some of the longest pitches, a 70 and a tag line would let you do pretty much anything. A light rack gets you up everything but The Hex Files, bring a double rack if you're ticking that line, otherwise save the weight for extra water. Very warm wall for Red Rock.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Ultraman Wall : Ultraman (5.8+ R)
By: Zappatista When: Dec 21, 2013

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Comments: What a fun route. This is a killer wall, so much better than some of its chossy neighbors.


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