Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Which way again?


Member Since: Feb 15, 2007
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact Cunning Linguist


Point Rank: # 222
Total Points: 2,478
Last Year: 115
Last 30 Days: 13
66 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Cunning Linguist been climbing?










Contributions


All 3690 | Routes 93 | Areas 18 | Photos 154 | Page Improvements | Comments 508 | Posts 2782 | Stars 122 | Ratings 13
Page 2 of 21.  <<First   <Prev   1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Burlap Buttress : Unknown Mixed Route (5.10+)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Jan 18, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Not a bad pitch, too bad the yucca got sawed so badly or this would have much more spice factor. I'm sure well meaning people were trying to prevent injury on Arrow Place, but still, sad. Easy to use a TCU to lean over and pre-clip the first bolt, the crux is getting started but the best climbing is up high. I know the guys who put this up, old school red rockers, I'll ask is the FA details or at least the name is legit to publish. Nice work on this one, gentlemen (they won't read this :) )


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Burlap Buttress : Arrow Place (5.9)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Jan 18, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: The first 2 pitches are easily as good or better than Ragged Edges. This sunny spot should not be missed by anyone who likes classic crack and corner pitches n Red Rock. The base was basking in the sun and so were we. Great winter spot for a quick few early morning pitches before leaving Red Rock on a Sunday for you weekend warriors. Raps easily with a 60. There's no need for crazy micro gear if you have 00 TCU, purple C3, or equivalent. A 5.8 leader could do this with a point of aid at the star... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Burlap Buttress : Wish Bone (5.9 R)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Jan 18, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Wow, Matt, you ain't lyin'! A really standout old school funky splitter, with section after section of weird but great climbing. I made the mistake of going right side in on that upper flare and paid for it...was much easier to climb left side in with foot assists from the arÍte. I think the gear deserves mention- I took doubles from 00-4 and thought the second four wasn't necessary (just save the 4 for the flare+use it for a push piece), but I could have placed a few extra .5 sized pieces and b... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Ultraman Wall : Science Patrol (5.8)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Jan 13, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: A nice tip on this route is that you don't need a second rope to rappel it if you use a 70 and a bit of creativity. From the top anchor head down and climber's left into a small corner, rap past a small roof to the anchors of Rodan, which are glue ins with beefy hardware courtesy of the ASCA. A single rap from the Rodan anchor gets you to the ground.

I can't honestly say that Science Patrol is a really great climb, but it is fairly user-friendly and safe, and so is a decent choice for beginner... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Ultraman Wall : Rodan (5.7+ X)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Jan 13, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Anchor replaced with glue ins in late 2014. Thanks to the ASCA for the hardware, make sure to visit their page and make a donation if you appreciate safe anchors replacing the hardware store junk show and tat that used to be the anchor.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : The Gallery : That Goode Dude Climb (5.7)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Jan 11, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Agree on Denny. Great guy, like the warning on the route page as well, Mike. Will this be your final salvo before hitting the road? Say it ain't so!


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Ultraman Wall : The Hex Files (5.6 R)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Dec 24, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: There are now a handful of routes on this wall that require placing gear. Mothra, Ghidorah, MK Ultra, Ultramagnetic MCs, Rodan, and Hex Files all require gear to some extent. Hex Files is the only all-gear line and hexes and up to fist sized cams will be appreciated on this route.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Ultraman Wall : Rodan (5.7+ X)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Dec 24, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: A good candidate for getting chopped if bolts appear. As Ed noted, easily set up to TR from the .10a to the left. A bit tougher mentally and move-wise than Scent of an Ultraman.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Ultraman Wall : Clutch Cargo (5.9)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Dec 24, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I don't know where people are getting the 5.7 from, this is sustained at the 8+/9 grade. The start itself is harder than .7. Don't get suckered. I had to throw for a hold and I'm 5'10". Good climb though.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Upper Tier : Sunspot Ridge (5.8)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Dec 22, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Andrew, I smile to think of you recognizing my voice echoing over, probably chanting my mantra for the day: "This route....is a piece....of SHIIIIIIITTTTT!!!". We walked in from the road and didn't notice any water on the approach. There were a handful of puddles in Solar Slab Gully on the rappel, but none on the ridge route whatsoever, even in the lower chimneys, where you would expect water to flow due to the large and extremely healthy scrub oaks on route. I'm glad to hear that I wasn't the o... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Upper Tier : Sunspot Ridge (5.8)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Dec 21, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This is the softest rock long route that I have climbed to date in Red Rock. The route as I climbed it was R/X on many pitches; I hope this serves as a warning to those new to Red Rock who are considering climbing this line: I broke more holds on this route than on any 20 multipitch routes in Red Rock that I have done put together. There were several pitches where I got only one or two pieces of gear and broke six or more sizeable hand and footholds....per pitch. Combined with the thra... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Aeolian Wall : Inti Watana (5.10+)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Dec 17, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: That's a pretty great post, lots of useful info. Check out George Bell's link above for Res beta. Hope that helps.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Calico Basin Boulders : Swingers Boulder : Tapatio (V9)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Dec 14, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Also impressive that you were able to lock off so well on sandstone crimps right after it rained. I wonder if it only took 3 tries or less to be, well, need I say it? Fill in the blanks.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Straight Shooter Wall : Straight Shooter (5.9) : Photo
By: Cunning Linguist When: Dec 5, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Just pointing out that we are all better people for adding these comments. Yay spare time!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Lone Star (5.11)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Dec 5, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: If approaching via Yellow Rose as did the first ascentionists (moulin's beta above mixes up some different routes and sounds like it might be faster and more fun on the first few pitches), here's a little beta on that route: the lower pitches are grovelly and not very frequently climbed, the bolts have been partially replaced (and retroed in some spots) as of this posting, and the route definitely doesn't start getting fun until atop the huge gully ledge. The bolts we replaced that were likely p... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Coco Crag : Snagglepuss (5.11-)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Dec 5, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Funny, I really like those routes. As a non-fan of rap bolting and top down tactics in general, I think that Randy and Pier stand out as real craftsmen with their consistently good sport routes. If everyone put as much thought and hard work into their top-down routes, maybe sport climbing development wouldn't be a drain catch for the chickenfeathered amongst us and their thoughtless drilling. One man's 2 cents.

PS I'm glad everyone's enjoying the route. It was fun putting it up.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall
By: Cunning Linguist When: Dec 5, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: To whichever admin deleted the Yellow Rose of Texas page, I'd like to tip my hat. I was up on that route a couple weeks ago replacing some very old hardware (btw there are still bad pro bolts on the 5.11 face section, will be back to do more shortly but for the time being, be warned) and shaking my head at the idea that a cut and paste job from Handren's guide by a guy who never touched the route is the best we have to offer. Glad that those in need of Handren's description can just buy his book... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Labyrinth Wall
By: Cunning Linguist When: Nov 8, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Yer missing the pint, serr.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Meetup Wall : The Pumpkin King (5.10a/b)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Oct 29, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: No one's chopped these yet? Damn, someone is SLIPPIN!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Cyborg (5.12c/d) : Photo
By: Cunning Linguist When: Sep 9, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Why would this climb be off limits? Bad joke?


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Elephant Rock : Hotline (5.12a)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Sep 9, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Whatever it was, Henry barber put it up. Fish crack?


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Lost And Found Crag
By: Cunning Linguist When: Jul 7, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The idea is most likely a lot better than the reality of shakefesting your way up the 2nd ascent of some crunchy line that takes more help to find than has already been given. Much wiser would be spending some time on Tonto and routes to its left til you're comfortable climbing on gear again. Hope that clarifies things. This is an obscure crag with no known repeats, not a well-worn practice area close to the car. If you find it, post up and tell me how right/wrong I was.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Archangel (5.12c)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Jun 30, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I just want to take this opportunity to quote Chris Weidner: "If my actions are even a fraction as repulsive to him as it seems they are to most on this forum, I will immediately remove the bolts I added."

And then, on July 30th 2013, "I have enjoyed a friendly dialogue with Thomas Burke. He has asked me to remove 5 of the 8 bolts I added to Archangel and to keep my new 2 bolt anchor intact. I will do this as soon as I can, which will be the end of August."

So, today's been a year since Weidne... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : The Monument : Desert Gold (5.13a PG13) : Photo
By: Cunning Linguist When: Jun 24, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Pretty damn rad.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Hunter S. Thompson Dome : Chrome Dome (5.9)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Jun 24, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The verb's the herb, glue your feet to the curb and jump down, turn around, pick a bale of cotton kinda route. No time for love doctor jones, roll the bones, kinda route, stay on the left, right, then be quick on your head foot, this route is enlarged to show detail, so let's drink from the bottle and get small, y'all.

If you know what I mean. That should help you climb this route.


Page 2 of 21.  <<First   <Prev   1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
and Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!