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Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Bridge Mountain : Northeast Arete (5.6)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Dec 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Takes one to know one, sugar. Just pointing out consistency, but I'm sure that's not your particular hobgoblin.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Ginger Buttress : Ginger Cracks (5.9)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Dec 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Respectable words. Logic must be a virus, a few posters are displaying it these days-pretty unusual in these parts. Thx for the perspective, Yasso.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Bridge Mountain : Northeast Arete (5.6)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Dec 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Devil's advocate: same person posting above who put up the comment on the Chicken Lips page stating:
By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Jun 30, 2006
Please don't build needless cairns in the desert!!!
So if paint is Neh Beeg Deel, cairns are No Bueno?
It's a crazy world, boys and girls.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Bridge Mountain : Northeast Arete (5.6)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Dec 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Maybe they could just pave the approach, or put in a via ferrata all the way up Rocky Gap Road....
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Ginger Buttress : Ginger Cracks (5.9)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Dec 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: ^^^That's my boy! The chockstone is safe, the problem is just what Scott said: people taking "consumer" routes for granted and not carrying cord to back up anchors.
Bring some cord, sirs. It's your own responsibility, and if you're not an ASCA donor yet, that might be a good first step after buying some webbing and a knife to cut it.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Stratocaster Area : Unknown (5.10d)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Nov 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: That is so weird. I didn't think people did that kind of thing in red rock. I guess the end (a mess) justifies the means (anything goes, except ground-up and good style)
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Stratocaster Area
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Nov 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Janes is referring to the new routes that have epoxy drip patterns spread out underneath the left one with shitty homemade permamank, and the one on the right with the extra visible black chains on bolts three feet apart on 5.8 moves.
I'd be happy to out the culprits on here, but the local ethic seems to be to keep that kind of information quiet. The right route isn't bad minus the chain nonsense, the one on the left looks like a glued up pile that isn't calling my name with so many good pitch... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Refrigerator Wall : Breakaway (5.10c)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Nov 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: 80m rope or doubles sounds smarter to me. Adding that much cord to an anchor to *barely* make it down is more of a bail technique than standard operating procedure on a trade route. The anchor will be cordless and nice beefy ASCA stainless once I get a day to jump on it again with Shirtless Tendon. Downclimbing a blank overhanging wall because you didn't bring the correct rope to descend sounds like not-fun in my book.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : Brass Balls (5.10)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Nov 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bolts on this one are less than stellar right now with the exception of the top two stations. I particularly like the use of the power drill to chip out channels for the hangerless chain/washer setup to sit flush. The mixed metal pro bolt setups on P1 leave a lot to be desired.
How much tougher would it have been to just use a hanger or three to make these stations legit? I guess chipping and mixing metals seemed like a better idea.
I'd suggest trying the 5.7 R chimney variation to the 1st pit... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Kraft Crags : Classic Crack of Calico (5.9+) : Photo
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Nov 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looked at it. Didn't look like something I'd get a lot out of, personally. Give er a go, let me know what you think.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Our Father (5.10 R)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Nov 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rob, you and I replaced bolts on Delicate Sound and Tales From The Gripped that day. We didn't have to touch P2 of Our Fadda as all that was already done. The ones we didn't finish dealing with were on P2 of Tales, that was when we finally gave in to our scratchy throats and descended to get water and Haterade.
I think Roger's description is making it sound like there is a sport section on that pitch, but I'd bet at most someone may have replaced the formerly chopped second bolt recently. This ... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Lotta Balls Wall : Bruja's Brew (5.9) : Photo
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Oct 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This photo shows a variant to the actual line. It is possible to break right into "Voodoo Doll", and head up to the Black Magic anchor. If climbing Bruja's Brew, step left from pitch one's bolted belay, climb more or less straight up until about 25 feet below the roof, belay on finger to hand sized gear. The next pitch steps right, takes a seam to the roof, climb straight up from the only obvious nut placement (steep, but 5.6) then scoots left to a steep pull near greenery that deposits you on a... more >>
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Location: Wally29 : Space Cowboy : Photo
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Oct 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice shot!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Straight Shooter Wall : Orange Clonus (5.10d)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Oct 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Finally got out to finish this one after checking out the first pitch variation (.11)a while ago. Hangover day meant the #5 was forgotten at home, which was a major bummer trying to get up the slick offwidth black crack around the corner. Got a wild hair up and hopped left onto a finger and hand splitter that was crunchy enough that it might have been virgin before today, .10- range, techy and pretty fun, minus snapping all those virgin footholds. This and a little creative thinking puts t... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Negro Blanco (5.10c R)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Oct 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I hate to be the one to tell you this.
It really pains me.
You will ALWAYS see a lot of talking. You are on the internet.
| Says it all. Like how secure you are in your manhood when you're trying to goad strangers onto mediocre routes, to "win", somehow...
Submitted By: Killing In The Name Of on Oct 13, 2012
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Location: John Hegyes : Random Images : Photo
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Oct 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: 20 points for spray painting directly on the rock without using a template or making tape to keep paint off the rock.
100 points for using carbon bolts with stainless hanger, this is classic setup for galvanic corrosion, if you don't believe me go climb at the stone wall sometime.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Western Spaces Wall : Desert Solitude (5.10)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Oct 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: ^^^^^^^THAT, ladies and gentlemen, is a great writeup.
Thanks for taking time to put 'er down, big time! Well done!
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Mount Carmel Tunnel : Ataxia Tower : Ashtar Command (5.9) : Photo
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Sep 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome Star Dryvin chicanery! Nothing better than a nail to rap off of-
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Perplexity (5.10d)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Sep 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bolts are now not shit. All pro bolts replaced with bomber ASCA stainless. Enjoy this unusual route! It got the name for a reason...
As far as gear goes, Jerry's guide reccommendations are a little strange. bring at least 2 00 TCUs, 3 will get used, and the largest piece you'll need other than that is a .75 (single). No Z1/Z2 required, and the lack of pins is not a bad thing, where they were placed, they weren't going to hold much. Good tips cam placements abound. The rock on the upper fingers ... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Mossy Ledges Area : Hookers and blow. (5.11a)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Sep 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sounds like an awesome route. I've been waiting for the illegally bolted routes to start being claimed, by name. Willow is considered a wilderness area, by the guys with badges, for what it's worth.
Sounds like you guys get around, which is respectable. Sounds like you just put a few footses in thine mouthen, Komrade. Good luck with that.
Second thoughts?
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Location: NV : Red Rock : White Rock Spring : Angel Food Wall : Tunnel Vision (5.7) : Photo
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Sep 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's a pic of the pitch after the tunnel; from the cave-like belay looking right. Left escape to avoid topout is half a pitch above.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : The Misunderstanding (5.9)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Sep 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bolted anchors on this route were retro-anchors, courtesy Todd Swain. They were installed when Todd was putting in his nearby routes Perplexity and Miss Conception, original anchor atop P2 was fixed natural pro.
While attempting to switch out a homemade angle iron "cracked hanger" Swain hanger (so-called because they were made at home by Swain, and had cracks at the time of installation at the clip point-Swain still installed them) at the first belay, my party got the pleasure of snapping ... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Amber (5.10) : Photo
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Sep 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: My buddy has this wedge bolt as a souvenir. The entire top anchor sat on a fully rotten, disconnected strata that has broken into pieces since the FA of the route. One bolt was A4 and the other was a time bomb. Glad to have gotten this one off my bucket list.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Amber (5.10)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Sep 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Janky top anchor replaced with new hardware donated by the American Safe Climbing Association. Make sure to send them a check after you do the route.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Amber (5.10)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Sep 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Top anchor has been replaced thanks to your local ASCA fairies, but you've still got to have a major screw loose to burn time on that last pile of a pitch with all the other amazing splitters nearby. The pitch stars go down as well as the rock quality, with every belay that you reach. 1+2 are pretty cool, though 2 is oddly hardwared from my perspective. P3 is decent, more loose rock than the 2nd, but okay. The view from the top of P4 is great but you have to really be psyched on choss to get exc... more >>
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