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Member Since: Feb 15, 2007
Last Visit: Aug 19, 2015
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Point Rank: # 233
Total Points: 2,478
Last Year: 83
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 902 | Routes 92 | Areas 17 | Photos 28 | Page Improvements | Comments 495 | Posts 135 | Stars 122 | Ratings 13
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : The Delicate Sound of Thund... (5.11a) : Photo
By: Cunning Linguist When: Feb 18, 2015

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Comments: I think those guys were belaying from an adjacent route's anchor, which probably feels safer than the gear anchor stance but is out of line with the rest of the climbing. Probably not a major deal one way or the other.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Wake-Up Wall : Mic's Master (5.10a/b)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Feb 18, 2015

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Comments: They make these things called lockers. If you're shitting egg rolls because your biner opened, perhaps you should use a biner that won't open?

Or you can pray to the Local Climbing Group Gods to start permadrawing everything for your convenience. Cause that is certain to happen.

Sport climber- noun A person woefully under equipped to climb outdoors who wouldn't know how to deal with anything out of the ordinary when, predictably and reliably, that happens.


Location: VA : Richmond/Central VA : Manchester Wall
By: Cunning Linguist When: Feb 12, 2015

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Comments: ^^^^^Routes are listed, on this site, already linked from this page, to pillar 6. So, yeah, everyone has that information available. Look up on the left side of the page you are on.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Overhanging Hangover (5.10a)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Feb 8, 2015

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Comments: Rappelled over this route today and can confirm, there are INCHES of poop on every horizontal surface up there right now. Even the bolts are covered in shit. Really gross. Good luck with this one.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Cactus Flower Tower : The Triad : Vegabondage (5.11a) : Photo
By: Cunning Linguist When: Feb 2, 2015

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Comments: Ah, crap rock. You can't avoid it in the desert. Looked protectable if the gear held, maybe I'll do this one when it warms up.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Cactus Flower Tower : The Triad : Vegabondage (5.11a) : Photo
By: Cunning Linguist When: Jan 30, 2015

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Comments: That line looked crunchy when I scoped it, MK! How was the rock?


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Stratocaster Area : Mystery Route...Will update (5.12b)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Jan 23, 2015

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Comments: Depending on whether this is the route with lots of epoxy/glue dripped all over the ground underneath, I know a bit about when and who this abortion was created by. Drilled pockets, permadraws, glued on flakes...some of Red Rock's finest climbing, no doubt.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : Bush Pilots (5.10a R)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Jan 18, 2015

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Comments: This route is safe and way more fun than you'd expect. Worthwhile.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Burlap Buttress : Unknown Mixed Route (5.10+)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Jan 18, 2015

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Comments: Not a bad pitch, too bad the yucca got sawed so badly or this would have much more spice factor. I'm sure well meaning people were trying to prevent injury on Arrow Place, but still, sad. Easy to use a TCU to lean over and pre-clip the first bolt, the crux is getting started but the best climbing is up high. I know the guys who put this up, old school red rockers, I'll ask is the FA details or at least the name is legit to publish. Nice work on this one, gentlemen (they won't read this :) )


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Ultraman Wall : Science Patrol (5.8)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Jan 13, 2015

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Comments: A nice tip on this route is that you don't need a second rope to rappel it if you use a 70 and a bit of creativity. From the top anchor head down and climber's left into a small corner, rap past a small roof to the anchors of Rodan, which are glue ins with beefy hardware courtesy of the ASCA. A single rap from the Rodan anchor gets you to the ground.

I can't honestly say that Science Patrol is a really great climb, but it is fairly user-friendly and safe, and so is a decent choice for beginner... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Ultraman Wall : Rodan (5.7+ X)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Jan 13, 2015

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Comments: Anchor replaced with glue ins in late 2014. Thanks to the ASCA for the hardware, make sure to visit their page and make a donation if you appreciate safe anchors replacing the hardware store junk show and tat that used to be the anchor.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : The Gallery : That Goode Dude Climb (5.7)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Jan 11, 2015

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Comments: Agree on Denny. Great guy, like the warning on the route page as well, Mike. Will this be your final salvo before hitting the road? Say it ain't so!


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Ultraman Wall : The Hex Files (5.6 R)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Dec 24, 2014

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Comments: There are now a handful of routes on this wall that require placing gear. Mothra, Ghidorah, MK Ultra, Ultramagnetic MCs, Rodan, and Hex Files all require gear to some extent. Hex Files is the only all-gear line and hexes and up to fist sized cams will be appreciated on this route.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Ultraman Wall : Rodan (5.7+ X)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Dec 24, 2014

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Comments: A good candidate for getting chopped if bolts appear. As Ed noted, easily set up to TR from the .10a to the left. A bit tougher mentally and move-wise than Scent of an Ultraman.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Ultraman Wall : Clutch Cargo (5.9)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Dec 24, 2014

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Comments: I don't know where people are getting the 5.7 from, this is sustained at the 8+/9 grade. The start itself is harder than .7. Don't get suckered. I had to throw for a hold and I'm 5'10". Good climb though.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Upper Tier : Sunspot Ridge (5.8)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Dec 22, 2014

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Comments: Andrew, I smile to think of you recognizing my voice echoing over, probably chanting my mantra for the day: "This route....is a piece....of SHIIIIIIITTTTT!!!". We walked in from the road and didn't notice any water on the approach. There were a handful of puddles in Solar Slab Gully on the rappel, but none on the ridge route whatsoever, even in the lower chimneys, where you would expect water to flow due to the large and extremely healthy scrub oaks on route. I'm glad to hear that I wasn't the o... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Upper Tier : Sunspot Ridge (5.8)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Dec 21, 2014

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Comments: This is the softest rock long route that I have climbed to date in Red Rock. The route as I climbed it was R/X on many pitches; I hope this serves as a warning to those new to Red Rock who are considering climbing this line: I broke more holds on this route than on any 20 multipitch routes in Red Rock that I have done put together. There were several pitches where I got only one or two pieces of gear and broke six or more sizeable hand and footholds....per pitch. Combined with the thra... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Aeolian Wall : Inti Watana (5.10+)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Dec 17, 2014

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Comments: That's a pretty great post, lots of useful info. Check out George Bell's link above for Res beta. Hope that helps.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Calico Basin Boulders : Swingers Boulder : Tapatio (V9)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Dec 14, 2014

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Comments: Also impressive that you were able to lock off so well on sandstone crimps right after it rained. I wonder if it only took 3 tries or less to be, well, need I say it? Fill in the blanks.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Straight Shooter Wall : Straight Shooter (5.9) : Photo
By: Cunning Linguist When: Dec 5, 2014

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Comments: Just pointing out that we are all better people for adding these comments. Yay spare time!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Lone Star (5.11)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Dec 5, 2014

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Comments: If approaching via Yellow Rose as did the first ascentionists (moulin's beta above mixes up some different routes and sounds like it might be faster and more fun on the first few pitches), here's a little beta on that route: the lower pitches are grovelly and not very frequently climbed, the bolts have been partially replaced (and retroed in some spots) as of this posting, and the route definitely doesn't start getting fun until atop the huge gully ledge. The bolts we replaced that were likely p... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Coco Crag : Snagglepuss (5.11-)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Dec 5, 2014

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Comments: Funny, I really like those routes. As a non-fan of rap bolting and top down tactics in general, I think that Randy and Pier stand out as real craftsmen with their consistently good sport routes. If everyone put as much thought and hard work into their top-down routes, maybe sport climbing development wouldn't be a drain catch for the chickenfeathered amongst us and their thoughtless drilling. One man's 2 cents.

PS I'm glad everyone's enjoying the route. It was fun putting it up.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall
By: Cunning Linguist When: Dec 5, 2014

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Comments: To whichever admin deleted the Yellow Rose of Texas page, I'd like to tip my hat. I was up on that route a couple weeks ago replacing some very old hardware (btw there are still bad pro bolts on the 5.11 face section, will be back to do more shortly but for the time being, be warned) and shaking my head at the idea that a cut and paste job from Handren's guide by a guy who never touched the route is the best we have to offer. Glad that those in need of Handren's description can just buy his book... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Labyrinth Wall
By: Cunning Linguist When: Nov 8, 2014

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Comments: Yer missing the pint, serr.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Meetup Wall : The Pumpkin King (5.10a/b)
By: Cunning Linguist When: Oct 29, 2014

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Comments: No one's chopped these yet? Damn, someone is SLIPPIN!


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