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Member Since: Dec 20, 2004
Last Visit: Jan 5, 2014
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 33 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvments | Comments 5 | Posts 28 | Stars | Ratings

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Central Sierra : Calaveras Dome Area : Calaveras Dome : War of the Walls (5.10c PG13)
By: slobmonster When: Nov 28, 2009

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Comments: I think (actually I'm pretty sure) you have the name of this route wrong. It's "Wall of the Worlds."


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : Which One's Pink? (5.11-) : Photo
By: slobmonster When: Jun 12, 2008

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Comments: I'm still pretty peeved at the mostly single-handed plaque destruction from, by the hands of a climber who lived at the time in SW Colorado. He did *not* make a lot of friends after that. At the time, the (best available published) guidebook was quite hazy, and having some "landmark" plaques made the crag both easier to navigate, and gave some sense of history. For example: a plaque as simple as "SH 1988" would mean you should probably bring thin hands gear.

I've put up some new routes in ... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Jumbo Rock Area : Conan's Corridor : Colorado Crack (5.9)
By: slobmonster When: Nov 25, 2007

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Comments: As of Thanksgiving week '07 the "bolts" (and I use this term loosely, here) atop CC are present. Unfortunately they are fuggly, loose, spinning, and obviously damaged (by attempt at removal). If I knew a reliable way to remove Petzl Long-lifes, I'd have done so last week.

Regarding the argument posted above: coming from North Conway, I'm familiar with these pissing matches and the rock damage that eventually ensues. Maybe if someone in the community can mix up a yard or two of "J T patch" ce... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : Bird Brain Boulevard (WI5 M6)
By: slobmonster When: Dec 22, 2004

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Comments: Car started. Dropped K.C. (Boss? Where are you?) at his car in Ouray. Mind you, he led all the hard stuff anyway, I was a bit spooked. I think that we got the first seasonal ascent, and having knocked off the crux column (P3? 4?) it was by no means easy. Really long pulls when there's not really any ice to speak of.

My brain still occasionally sizzles. Talked to a good friend yesterday, he was up on BBB sometime last week and says it went great; maybe it's slightly more straight... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : Bird Brain Boulevard (WI5 M6)
By: slobmonster When: Dec 20, 2004

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Comments: I think you have to keep in mind the era in which BBB was first climbed, in addition to the style that was current, in order to rationalize its grade. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I seem to remember reading that Jeff Lowe and Mark Wilford climbed the Boulevard for a photo shoot, displaying the former's then new clothing line, Latok.

I climbed the route Thanksgiving Day 2000, topped out in the dark, got really scared and cold, and somehow made it back to the snow, with one working hea... more >>