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tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.


Member Since: Dec 1, 2004
Last Visit: 22 hours ago
Contact slim


Point Rank: # 306
Total Points: 1,746
Last Year: 256
Last 30 Days: 4
2 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has slim been climbing?










Contributions


All (7933) | Routes (55) | Areas (5) | Photos (17) | Comments (1036) | Posts (2317) | Stars (2294) | Ratings (2209)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The North End : Mono Jono (5.10c)
By: slim When: Apr 9, 2013

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Comments: Probably good to stick clip first bolt. For only 10c, this route has a stiff wake-up call. You might want to warm up your fingers a bit first.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The North End : The Function (5.11b)
By: slim When: Apr 9, 2013

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Comments: 3rd bolt should be replaced. The exposed portion of the stud isn't long enough, and instead of having the recommended 3 threads exposed, the stud is actually recessed into the nut.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The North End : The Lifus's Farm Tools (5.10b)
By: slim When: Apr 9, 2013

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Comments: Good route, but I thought the runout at the top kind of detracted from it. My partner and I both thought the crux was just below the anchor.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The North End : The Form (5.12a)
By: slim When: Apr 9, 2013

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Comments: Excellent route. I thought it was every bit as good as 'The Function' - more continuous climbing, and it doesn't have that awkward runout mantle. A lot of groping on this one, there are a million pockets and few of them are good. I couldn't decide between 11d and 12a, so I let the consensus guide me.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Optimator : Kitchen Sink (5.11+)
By: slim When: Apr 1, 2013

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Comments: superb route and perfectly named, as mentioned above. steven's rack suggestion looks pretty bold. i would recommend a bunch of pieces in the thin fingers to fingers sizes. it seems like there is always a finger crack available. pretty long route that is fairly strenuous, despite having a lot of rests.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Optimator : Hayutake (5.10+ PG13)
By: slim When: Apr 1, 2013

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Comments: yeah, you're probably right :). at the time i didn't know the traverse would be easy - for some reason i thought it would be the crux of the route.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Selfish Wall : Hair and Roses (5.10-)
By: slim When: Mar 28, 2013

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Comments: the climbing is decent, but the anchor location is in a location that is rough on the rock and the rope. if the anchor were moved a ways to the left (or perhaps, about 20 feet lower where the good climbing ends), it might be helpful.

gear selection seems way, way off (maybe the OP was thinking of the route 'mine' which is about 100 feet to the right. recommended gear -optional big piece for start, then finger to hand size pieces.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Optimator : Hayutake (5.10+ PG13)
By: slim When: Mar 28, 2013

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Comments: a good way to do this route is to tie into both ends of your rope, use the 'left' rope to climb a ways up neat and get some gear. do the traverse and get some gear in 'hay u take' with the 'right' rope, make a few moves to get to a stance, untie the left rope (belayer can pull it down), then keep going with the 'right' rope.

doing it this way, it is well protected. fun route.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Sylvester (5.11)
By: slim When: Mar 28, 2013

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Comments: the gear list seems to be copied from bloom, and most people will find it 'lacking'. i didn't find anywhere for a .4, and unless you are really, really solid you will want bigger than a #2. here is my suggested list (in camalots) - (2-4) .5, (1-2) .75, maybe 1 each #1 to #3, big piece for the top (ie old 4.5 camalot to new 6 camalot sized).

this thing is way harder than it looks. we did it as an end-of-day warm down route, and it was almost a melt down route. i forgot how ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Puma (5.12-)
By: slim When: Mar 28, 2013

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Comments: really fun route. i always enjoy placing a bunch of smaller stuff on a route that is at a reasonable grade. i think the old 12- rating was based on the terrible shoes and lack of our modern protection options. in EB's, trying to cram friends into this, i would find it really hard.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Unknown 67 (5.11)
By: slim When: Mar 28, 2013

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Comments: fantastic route. i had wanted to climb it for a long time, but never seemed to make it over there. man, what a nice route - whenever you get stumped you look around and there is some feature that makes it work out. heavy on small stuff (blue alien to .4 camalot range, and a fair amount of that weird in-between size crack).


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Alphonse (5.8) : Photo
By: slim When: Mar 28, 2013

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Comments: one pitch with doubles is the way to go. great pitch, steep and sustained.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : The Killer Toupee (5.10b)
By: slim When: Mar 4, 2013

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Comments: The arete route has been around for a while. Cactus Pad, 11a. Ok climbing but a lot of hollow plates and loose/brittle flakes. Bolts are a bit far apart, given the probability of a hold breaking.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Under A Blood Red Wall (5.11d)
By: slim When: Mar 4, 2013

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Comments: Surprised at this one being described as soft compared to other Shelf or Devil's Head 12a's. I thought it was pretty consistent climbing at a difficult level. Much more difficult than many/most of the new 12a's at Shelf, definitely harder than any of the 12a's I can think of at DH, and a substantial leap in difficulty from Lats.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : Tinsel Town aka BR 2? (5.9)
By: slim When: Mar 4, 2013

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Comments: Total pile. 9 out of 10 roadcuts have better rock quality than this thing.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Almost French (5.11d)
By: slim When: Feb 22, 2013

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Comments: Fun route with several interesting sections. The new book gives it 12a, which I don't really agree with as it has been considered benchmark for Shelf 11d for a long time. There aren't any hard moves on it, but there aren't many easy ones either.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Hurricane Hinzi (5.11c/d)
By: slim When: Feb 22, 2013

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Comments: Not sure if something broke in the crux area since this first went up, but it feels pretty hard for 11d. This route would probably get 2 stars if the bolt at the crux was in a better location. In its current location, when you pitch off the crux move, you can end up clipping the ramp below and then swinging to the left. Kind of unpleasant.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Short Man's Burden (5.12b)
By: slim When: Feb 22, 2013

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Comments: Having done this one a couple times, I think the best way to do it is to climb through the first 4 bolts (maybe clip 5th with long runner) on Hurricane Hinzi and move left into the upper section of Short Man's Burden. If I remember correctly, this is how it was first put up. Hopefully someone will correct me if I'm wrong. Doing it this way is 2 stars - you get the fun lower bulge of HH and the fun upper section of SB.

The direct start is kind of a chosstrocity, and the climbing above can't r... more >>


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Escalante Canyon : Zappa Wall : Aid Line (Chockstone Roulet... (C1)
By: slim When: Feb 18, 2013

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Comments: I think the route that used to exist was called 'Chockstone Roulette'. Climbed the wide corner.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Tenderloins Wall : Steer It Up (5.10)
By: slim When: Feb 18, 2013

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Comments: the route in the photos is steer it up. i think your gear list and vince's are pretty similar(?). off fingers to thin hands start, and a long stretch of big hands.


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Cynical Pinnacle : Wunsch's Dihedral (5.11)
By: slim When: Feb 18, 2013

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Comments: All but the last 10 feet. You would want to do it on a day when it is snowing or something, as there would probably be a lot of annoyed people trying to pass you.


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : In Search of Unicorns (5.11-) : Photo
By: slim When: Feb 18, 2013

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Comments: The Woo Li master!


Location: CO : Photo
By: slim When: Jan 28, 2013

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Comments: 4 wheel low. 10++.


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Snake Buttress : The Viper (5.10c)
By: slim When: Jan 28, 2013

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Comments: I think it was this one (or maybe The Rattler), but I thought it was really hard for the grade. Relentless nothingness for the feet.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Photo
By: slim When: Jan 7, 2013

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Comments: 20 years ago, no green plates.... don't make me laugh.


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