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tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.


Member Since: Dec 1, 2004
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 285
Total Points: 1,994
Last Year: 284
Last 30 Days: 3
2 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has slim been climbing?










Contributions


All 8394 | Routes 73 | Areas 5 | Photos 17 | Page Improvements | Comments 1104 | Posts 2496 | Stars 2401 | Ratings 2298
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Centerfold (5.9+) : Photo
By: slim When: Aug 26, 2013

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Comments: If you zoom in real closely, you can see the bolts on Reefer Madness.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Crag Ranch : Throwin' the Shit Fit (5.11)
By: slim When: Aug 26, 2013

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Comments: Did this route last summer. I thought the first pitch was pretty tough for the grade. Awkward as hell.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Animal Riots Activist (5.12a)
By: slim When: Aug 26, 2013

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Comments: Interesting reading the comments after climbing this recently. I'll chip in my .02:

Toe cam - I have no idea where you would use a toe cam to make it easier, it seemed like the holds were all facing the wrong way for this tactic(???).

Hard/easy... my first go felt really hard, but it was pretty hot and humid, which isn't a good combo for this (or any) route. After figuring it out, it was still not super easy.

Somebody calls it 11c, and their tick comments say 'onsight with a rest' or somet... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Deckers : Java Dome : South Face : Vertical Beach Party (5.9 R)
By: slim When: Aug 21, 2013

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Comments: Same thing happened to me on the same route about 9 years ago. There are a ton of those same time bombs all over the place.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Blue Gramma Cliff : The Event Horizon (5.13 C1)
By: slim When: Aug 12, 2013

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Comments: i have driven past this and looked up at it for many years. i always kind of called it the king of the desert for some reason. awesome looking line that welcomes you to the creek. i wondered if anybody had done it, it was such a prominent line. i have no idea why, but i never walked up and looked at it. probably because it is really intimidating looking.

anyway, saw your rope on it (i think it was yours) maybe a year or so ago and it really intrigued me. who was up there checking it out? ... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Blair (overview) : Upper Blair : John's Tower : Jamminy Crackit (5.11b)
By: slim When: Aug 12, 2013

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Comments: Definitely, although they are quite different.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Back to Black (5.11d)
By: slim When: Aug 12, 2013

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Comments: tough mantel.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Pansee Sauvage (5.11b R)
By: slim When: Aug 9, 2013

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Comments: Long ways to the anchors, and the last little bit isn't trivial.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Thriller on the Pillar (5.10b)
By: slim When: Aug 9, 2013

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Comments: man, it took me several tries figuring out which way to go up there! i up and downed, placing and removing, traversing to and fro. i definitely found it mentally engaging and somewhat puzling.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Claim Jumper (5.12a)
By: slim When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: after doing sentry box this route was somewhat of a letdown. i have no idea how this could get 4 stars. unaesthetic, awkward, greasy climbing, sometimes on not great rock, make up about 2/3 of the route. the finger crack above is pretty good, but easy. there are at least a 100 better finger cracks in squamish.

i was kind of surprised that a lot of people call it 11d. i thought claim jumper was a bit harder than sentry box, but i might have been pretty tired at that point. also, i always fi... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Sentry Box (5.12a)
By: slim When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: outstanding route. the initial warmup section alone is great fun, but the climbing above is the cat's pajamas! great rock, perfect gear, you really feel like you are climbing something when you ascend this line. if you aren't smiling when you hit the chains then you probably need a labotomy!

one key piece of beta (given above) - make sure you do something to keep the rope out of the crack at the lip of the chimney. you will probably realize this pretty quickly though.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Perspective (5.11-)
By: slim When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: an excellent pitch, but i wouldn't put it in the squamish top 100 due to several sections with not-so-great rock. definitely a memorable pitch.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Plumbline (5.12a)
By: slim When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: i thought this route was excellent. fantastic rock. the only knock against it is that it is kind of short and a lot of the other routes nearby are considerably taller. when i read that the crux is fingery, i figured it would be crimpy. it is indeed a little crimpy, but that isn't what fingery means in this case. this one feels considerably easier if it is a few degrees cooler out....


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : More Than Just A Pretty Fac... (5.10c)
By: slim When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: good route. i didn't really like the bolting from 2nd to 3rd bolt. kind of runout with possible groundfall. easy climbing, but you rely on not 100% sound flakes for clipping the 3rd bolt. overall the climbing is very good, and a 10c climber probably won't be affected getting to the 3rd bolt.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Geneside (5.10b)
By: slim When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: looks ok from the ground, but climbs a lot better. has a nice steep feel to it, and the protection is good. really fun.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Mushroom (5.9)
By: slim When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: this thing loves those .5's and .75's. really fun to climb this size at a relaxing grade.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Laid Back (5.9+)
By: slim When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: really fun. we thought it was a bit better than mushroom (which is also good).


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Mercury Vapour (5.10-)
By: slim When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: super fun route, although getting to the first bolt is a tiny bit spooky with the flakes. upper roof is just a blast. good protection, interesting climbing, well worth doing.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Wiretap (5.10a)
By: slim When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: a great addition to the area that will, undoubtedly, become a popular classic. the first pitch (combine 1 and 2) is super fun, and the belay is probably the coolest belay i have ever had (or at least in the top handful). the following pitches up to the wiretap crack are fun, and surprisingly techy. wiretap crack is beautiful, the granite is sort of a polished gold that is similar to parts of tuolomne or yosemite. you wish it would go on for 240 feet....


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Thriller on the Pillar (5.10b)
By: slim When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: great pitch with a lot of thoughtful climbing. feels like a long pitch. probably want to budget your gear carefully to make sure you have what you need when you want it. only knocks against this route - a little dirty, but will clean up nicely with traffic. also, the bolt was in a really weird location. it doesn't really protect anything, as you are basically done climbing by the time you can actually clip it.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Golden Labs (5.9+)
By: slim When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: very worthwhile little pitch. good blue collar jamming at the start, followed by some elegant footwork with a nice diagonal crack. leader should probably belay from the top anchor, as lowering could jam the first cams into the roof.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Dora's Delight (5.8)
By: slim When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: the only noteworthy thing, on this otherwise bland pitch, is that it is really poorly bolted for a modern route. expect bolts really close together on easy trivial climbing, and a poorly protected crux section with really ugly fall potential.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Slot Machine (5.9)
By: slim When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: new book gives it 5.8, which is a bit stiff (the start) by squamish standards. fun route.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Coogee Crack (5.10c)
By: slim When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: this is a nice, short crack that provides a good chance to snag a pitch in a short period of time. good for one last pitch, or something to do if you are waiting to get on something. the gear is good, but sometimes takes a bit of wiggling. definitely worth doing.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : The Squamish Buttress (5.10c)
By: slim When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: like others have stated, mostly steep walking to a nice 5.10 pitch. definitely worth doing once, as linking up the apron (or other approach) to the top of the chief at a reasoble grade makes for a nice day. also, the climbing is easy enough that bringing comfortable descent shoes, food, water, etc isn't a hassle.

we did the 1st pitch 5.9 variation. the start is unpleasantly awkward, but the rest of the pitch is pretty good. the crux pitch takes excellent small gear and the climbing is ver... more >>


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