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tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.


Member Since: Dec 1, 2004
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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Point Rank: # 295
Total Points: 1,882
Last Year: 269
Last 30 Days: 14
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has slim been climbing?










Contributions


All 8274 | Routes 64 | Areas 5 | Photos 17 | Page Improvements | Comments 1082 | Posts 2464 | Stars 2368 | Ratings 2274
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Slot Machine (5.9)
By: slim When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: new book gives it 5.8, which is a bit stiff (the start) by squamish standards. fun route.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Coogee Crack (5.10c)
By: slim When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: this is a nice, short crack that provides a good chance to snag a pitch in a short period of time. good for one last pitch, or something to do if you are waiting to get on something. the gear is good, but sometimes takes a bit of wiggling. definitely worth doing.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : The Squamish Buttress (5.10c)
By: slim When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: like others have stated, mostly steep walking to a nice 5.10 pitch. definitely worth doing once, as linking up the apron (or other approach) to the top of the chief at a reasoble grade makes for a nice day. also, the climbing is easy enough that bringing comfortable descent shoes, food, water, etc isn't a hassle.

we did the 1st pitch 5.9 variation. the start is unpleasantly awkward, but the rest of the pitch is pretty good. the crux pitch takes excellent small gear and the climbing is ver... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Skywalker (5.8)
By: slim When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: did this one twice one morning, using all of the various 10a variation pitches. fun, well protected.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Upper Breadloaves - West : Stretch Marks (5.9)
By: slim When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: i thought this was a really neat route. good stemming, good small gear. the only thing it lacks is length.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Super Hits - Bloody Fingers : Bloody Fingers (5.10a)
By: slim When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: really fun route with straight forward gear and excellent jamming. the only blemish is the loose horn, surprised nobody has really mentioned it. might want to be careful there, although if it hasn't come off yet.....


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Parking Lot Rock : Parking Lot Rock - Northeas... : Thin Slice (5.10a)
By: slim When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: really fun route. neat features, eats gear. deservedly popular.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Morning Glory Spire : Fall Line (5.10b)
By: slim When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: the only thing amazing about this route was that someone could place so many bolts, and still leave the awkward crux (getting to 3rd bolt) basically unprotected with really ugly fall potential. really detracts from the otherwise good climbing.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Flaming Rock : Smoke Signal (5.12a)
By: slim When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: really good route that is in your face immediately, and doesn't really let up until you clear the bulge. the bolts are close enough together that it isn't dangerous, but far enough apart that you are nervous about hitting your belayer. good bolt locations though - it would be hard to clip at any other locations.

definitely try to do it in cooler weather. the holds are tough to pull in a positive direction and you need that extra bit of friction. hot weather felt a bit greasy.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Flaming Rock : Tribal Boundaries (5.10a)
By: slim When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: super fun route, seemed very well bolted. the more difficult sections have a bolt right there, and easier more positive sections they are a little more spaced out, but still appropriate for a 10a climber. top is well protected and fun.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Archangel (5.12c)
By: slim When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: Well stated, Blake.


Location: CO : Gunnison : God's Crag
By: slim When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: Does anybody have any info on whether access to this area has been affected by the recent fire? Thanks!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Kingfisher : The Return of Mudzilla (A3)
By: slim When: Jul 19, 2013

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Comments: climbing in the fishers can get slow. real slow.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Drug Dome : OZ (5.10d) : Photo
By: slim When: Jul 18, 2013

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Comments: i've seen those rings snap a thousand times. they should be doubled up on each bolt.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Drug Dome : OZ (5.10d) : Photo
By: slim When: Jul 17, 2013

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Comments: its kinda tough to clip directly into the actual 'bolts'. what is kinda scary though - i don't think he has seen the BD daisy chain video.....


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Garden Party Wall : The Illusionist (5.12-)
By: slim When: Jul 14, 2013

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Comments: Interesting route. My first attempt it felt really, really hard, but I was paying too much attention to the 2nd bolt above the roof and trying to use it as a clue on which way to go over the roof. Big mistake. I was trying to figure out what was going on, as Bob/Greg's routes aren't generally stiff for the grade. I was pretty baffled. second time, just following the climbing, went much easier. If it feels really hard, take a step back and try something different - you are likely in left fie... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Hillbilly Rocks : Hillbilly Rock 1 : I Reckon (5.12a)
By: slim When: Jul 3, 2013

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Comments: Having done this route both ways (i.e. following the bolt line up and left, going straight up/slightly right) here are a few comments:

The left version felt way hard for 12a, particularly considering that the FA party generally grades things pretty friendly. I don't know if the heat/humidity had something to do with it, but there are some brutally smooth holds up there. Clipping the bolt was a bitch. I would probably call this way 12b or so, definitely as hard or harder than any 12b I have d... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Black Widow Slab : Dracula (5.12b)
By: slim When: Jun 26, 2013

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Comments: (Big thanks to Chris for sending me some beta to read during my bus commute!)

Dracula is a really fun route, although if you don't have really long arms, I could see the last move of the crux as being a bit frustrating. My arms were fortunately just long enough to keep it from being too heinous. I would love to watch a really good, smaller climber do this route - it would probably be an impressive display.

Couple quick notes: this route makes a good, quick, after work project - there are no... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Red Wall : Starting Blocks (5.12a)
By: slim When: Jun 24, 2013

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Comments: This is a pretty wild route. I didn't enjoy it as much as others (not my typical style of route), but I also can recognize that it is a very good route. I don't think I have climbed a blocky/pillowy sort of granite route like this, where the blocks were all completely solid. Very unique!

I didn't have any trouble with the start, but it took me a bit to figure out the last overlap. You have to be agressive here. It took me literally forever to figure out how to clip the bolt here, I must ha... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Crag Ranch : Property Boundary (5.12b)
By: slim When: Jun 24, 2013

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Comments: A really weird route. It would have been better to arrange it such that the protection followed the natural climbing (11a or so). The bolts are way, way out to the right, so you end up climbing up to the left, then trying to climb back to the right to clip, etc. The last bolt is really hard to clip. There are several spots on the route where the location of the bolts versus natural climbing results in the rope running over sharp edges, etc.

Also, several of the bolts are located such that t... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Brennivin (5.12+) : Photo
By: slim When: Jun 20, 2013

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Comments: Now THAT is a photo!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Rush Hour (5.12a)
By: slim When: Jun 19, 2013

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Comments: I thought this route was ok. The start caught me off guard a bit - I didn't even look at it until I started climbing. Not hard but not exactly easy. The move over the roof felt way awkward. Good hand holds but really scrunchy feet. Probably considerably easier if you are short, as the hand movements are pretty small. Good quick after work 12a, worth doing once.

Also, if you are doing this one with somebody who will have trouble TR'ing the roof cleanly, you will want a plan. You don't real... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Ripcord (5.12a)
By: slim When: Jun 19, 2013

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Comments: Fun route. Would be a good first 12a as it is well-protected and there aren't really any brutal moves on it. Probably the only knock against it is that it is quite short, but it still packs in some good climbing.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Main Crag : Meteor Rhoadblock (5.12a/b)
By: slim When: Jun 19, 2013

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Comments: Good but kind of weird route. Onsighting this would be pretty proud, as it is fairly tricky. The lower hand jam shredded my right hand, upper hand jam was ok. Not sure how/where you would jam with your left(?).

I kind of hated this route while I was climbing it. It was hot and greasy, and the climbing isn't really my style. Looking back on it though, it is probably a good route. The climbing is fairly sustained the whole way, with a fairly difficult crux. Rock is solid too.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Arena : West Side Wall : Stimula (5.12a)
By: slim When: Jun 17, 2013

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Comments: A lot better and quite a bit more difficult than it looks. The start is a bit dirty/mungy and the first bolt is pretty high, so be careful. It is easy to overlook the climbing from the first bolt to the roof, but it is kind of more tedious than expected. First roof is super fun and well protected. Kind of funky up to the 2nd roof, and then strenuous to get over it.

Really well bolted I thought (although it could maybe have a lower/additional first bolt). Definitely worth doing, the climbin... more >>


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