Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.


Member Since: Dec 1, 2004
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
Contact slim


Point Rank: # 295
Total Points: 1,859
Last Year: 328
Last 30 Days: 10
2 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has slim been climbing?










Contributions


All 8155 | Routes 63 | Areas 5 | Photos 17 | Page Improvments | Comments 1069 | Posts 2408 | Stars 2343 | Ratings 2250
Page 7 of 43.  <<First   <Prev   5  6  7  8  9   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Drug Dome : OZ (5.10d) : Photo
By: slim When: Jul 17, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: its kinda tough to clip directly into the actual 'bolts'. what is kinda scary though - i don't think he has seen the BD daisy chain video.....


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Garden Party Wall : The Illusionist (5.12-)
By: slim When: Jul 14, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Interesting route. My first attempt it felt really, really hard, but I was paying too much attention to the 2nd bolt above the roof and trying to use it as a clue on which way to go over the roof. Big mistake. I was trying to figure out what was going on, as Bob/Greg's routes aren't generally stiff for the grade. I was pretty baffled. second time, just following the climbing, went much easier. If it feels really hard, take a step back and try something different - you are likely in left fie... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Hillbilly Rocks : Hillbilly Rock 1 : I Reckon (5.12a)
By: slim When: Jul 3, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Having done this route both ways (i.e. following the bolt line up and left, going straight up/slightly right) here are a few comments:

The left version felt way hard for 12a, particularly considering that the FA party generally grades things pretty friendly. I don't know if the heat/humidity had something to do with it, but there are some brutally smooth holds up there. Clipping the bolt was a bitch. I would probably call this way 12b or so, definitely as hard or harder than any 12b I have d... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Black Widow Slab : Dracula (5.12b)
By: slim When: Jun 26, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: (Big thanks to Chris for sending me some beta to read during my bus commute!)

Dracula is a really fun route, although if you don't have really long arms, I could see the last move of the crux as being a bit frustrating. My arms were fortunately just long enough to keep it from being too heinous. I would love to watch a really good, smaller climber do this route - it would probably be an impressive display.

Couple quick notes: this route makes a good, quick, after work project - there are no... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Red Wall : Starting Blocks (5.12a)
By: slim When: Jun 24, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: This is a pretty wild route. I didn't enjoy it as much as others (not my typical style of route), but I also can recognize that it is a very good route. I don't think I have climbed a blocky/pillowy sort of granite route like this, where the blocks were all completely solid. Very unique!

I didn't have any trouble with the start, but it took me a bit to figure out the last overlap. You have to be agressive here. It took me literally forever to figure out how to clip the bolt here, I must ha... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Crag Ranch : Property Boundary (5.12b)
By: slim When: Jun 24, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: A really weird route. It would have been better to arrange it such that the protection followed the natural climbing (11a or so). The bolts are way, way out to the right, so you end up climbing up to the left, then trying to climb back to the right to clip, etc. The last bolt is really hard to clip. There are several spots on the route where the location of the bolts versus natural climbing results in the rope running over sharp edges, etc.

Also, several of the bolts are located such that t... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Brennivin (5.12+) : Photo
By: slim When: Jun 20, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Now THAT is a photo!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Rush Hour (5.12a)
By: slim When: Jun 19, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: I thought this route was ok. The start caught me off guard a bit - I didn't even look at it until I started climbing. Not hard but not exactly easy. The move over the roof felt way awkward. Good hand holds but really scrunchy feet. Probably considerably easier if you are short, as the hand movements are pretty small. Good quick after work 12a, worth doing once.

Also, if you are doing this one with somebody who will have trouble TR'ing the roof cleanly, you will want a plan. You don't real... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Ripcord (5.12a)
By: slim When: Jun 19, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Fun route. Would be a good first 12a as it is well-protected and there aren't really any brutal moves on it. Probably the only knock against it is that it is quite short, but it still packs in some good climbing.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Main Crag : Meteor Rhoadblock (5.12a/b)
By: slim When: Jun 19, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Good but kind of weird route. Onsighting this would be pretty proud, as it is fairly tricky. The lower hand jam shredded my right hand, upper hand jam was ok. Not sure how/where you would jam with your left(?).

I kind of hated this route while I was climbing it. It was hot and greasy, and the climbing isn't really my style. Looking back on it though, it is probably a good route. The climbing is fairly sustained the whole way, with a fairly difficult crux. Rock is solid too.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Arena : West Side Wall : Stimula (5.12a)
By: slim When: Jun 17, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: A lot better and quite a bit more difficult than it looks. The start is a bit dirty/mungy and the first bolt is pretty high, so be careful. It is easy to overlook the climbing from the first bolt to the roof, but it is kind of more tedious than expected. First roof is super fun and well protected. Kind of funky up to the 2nd roof, and then strenuous to get over it.

Really well bolted I thought (although it could maybe have a lower/additional first bolt). Definitely worth doing, the climbin... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Arena : East Side Wall : Maximus (5.12a)
By: slim When: Jun 17, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Super fun route. Would be a very good first 12a as it is well protected and there are no brutal moves on it, just nice continuous climbing. A couple clips might be a tiny bit reachy if you are short, but you could probably climb the route to the left and hang the draws. It seemed like the clipping was all from good stances, nothing too weird. A couple of the flakes are a bit thin, but nothing broke when I did it.


Location: JJ Schlick : More climbing... : Photo
By: slim When: Jun 11, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: hey jj, what is that? i recognize the wall in the background, so i think i know which wall this photo is at, but i can't think of a route like this at that wall???? great photo!


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Dark Side : Kinesthesia (5.12a)
By: slim When: Jun 3, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Good climbing but unfortunately soiled by a pair of drilled 2 finger pockets at the end of the business. If you are going to drill pockets, at least radius the lip a bit.... The hardware is in bad shape. I would recommend stick clipping the first bolt, but this is basically impossible due to the spinning, homemade hanger.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Dark Side : I Scare Myself (5.11b R)
By: slim When: Jun 3, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: The hardware on this route is in poor shape, and the bolts are way to the right of the natural climbing. If the hardware and locations were modernized, this would be a popular route. The actual climbing on it is very good.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Dark Side : The Crack's On Top (5.11a/b)
By: slim When: Jun 3, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Good climbing but poorly bolted.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Dark Side : The Plum (5.12a)
By: slim When: Jun 3, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: It's kind of funny that this was listed as 10a for a long time. I know quite a few people who have gotten on it and been spanked. Newest guide calls it 12a, which is about right.

Great climb with well-protected, very interesting, technical movement.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Radio Head : Lady Fingers (5.10b)
By: slim When: Jun 3, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Couple tricky thin spots on this one. One or two of the bolts on the upper part of the slab were in weird locations that were tough to clip and didn't really protect against the ledges below.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Radio Head : Crandall Hammer Arete (5.11a)
By: slim When: Jun 3, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Bolts are in kind of weird locations, like 4 feet above ledges. Couple areas with ledge fall potential. Ok climbing though.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Radio Head : Heat Stroke (5.12a)
By: slim When: Jun 3, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: This would be a good first 12. Very well-bolted, you can consistently sneak in clips from good stances. Really fun climbing on this one.


Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Rainy Day Rock : Slippery When Wet (5.7) : Photo
By: slim When: Jun 3, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Definitely harder than they look.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Dark Side : The Welcoming (5.11c/d)
By: slim When: May 20, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: I thought this one felt at least as hard, probably harder than the 12a immediately to the left (go east old man). My first time I was reluctant to head to the finger crack and tried to stay more in line with the bolts - this felt like 5.way-out-of-my-pay-grade. Second time was a lot better but still felt pretty hard.

All 3 routes on this buttress could use some hardware love.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : Three Stooges (5.12a/b)
By: slim When: May 15, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Difficult route to assess in terms of grade and quality. Easy chossing for the first half, up to a big ledge. Continuous semi-difficult climbing above the ledge, with really hard clipping. Kind of felt like 11c climbing and 12b clipping off weird balance and bad feet. Kind of spooky with the ledge below. Between the scrambling first half, ledge, and crux, clipping it gets a few demerits. The meat of the climbing is quite good though.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Risky Business (5.10c R) : Photo
By: slim When: May 13, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: or to re-phrase it, the gear is naught....


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Capitalist Crag : Lower Capitalist Crag : Stroh's (5.11-)
By: slim When: May 7, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: I hope not, it was very handy. Fun route, Darren!


Page 7 of 43.  <<First   <Prev   5  6  7  8  9   Next>   Last>>