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tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.


Member Since: Dec 1, 2004
Last Visit: 18 hours ago
Contact slim


Point Rank: # 306
Total Points: 1,746
Last Year: 256
Last 30 Days: 4
2 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has slim been climbing?










Contributions


All (7932) | Routes (55) | Areas (5) | Photos (17) | Comments (1036) | Posts (2316) | Stars (2294) | Ratings (2209)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Main Crag : Meteor Rhoadblock (5.12a/b)
By: slim When: Jun 19, 2013

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Comments: Good but kind of weird route. Onsighting this would be pretty proud, as it is fairly tricky. The lower hand jam shredded my right hand, upper hand jam was ok. Not sure how/where you would jam with your left(?).

I kind of hated this route while I was climbing it. It was hot and greasy, and the climbing isn't really my style. Looking back on it though, it is probably a good route. The climbing is fairly sustained the whole way, with a fairly difficult crux. Rock is solid too.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Arena : Stimula (5.12a)
By: slim When: Jun 17, 2013

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Comments: A lot better and quite a bit more difficult than it looks. The start is a bit dirty/mungy and the first bolt is pretty high, so be careful. It is easy to overlook the climbing from the first bolt to the roof, but it is kind of more tedious than expected. First roof is super fun and well protected. Kind of funky up to the 2nd roof, and then strenuous to get over it.

Really well bolted I thought (although it could maybe have a lower/additional first bolt). Definitely worth doing, the climbin... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Arena : Maximus (5.12a)
By: slim When: Jun 17, 2013

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Comments: Super fun route. Would be a very good first 12a as it is well protected and there are no brutal moves on it, just nice continuous climbing. A couple clips might be a tiny bit reachy if you are short, but you could probably climb the route to the left and hang the draws. It seemed like the clipping was all from good stances, nothing too weird. A couple of the flakes are a bit thin, but nothing broke when I did it.


Location: JJ Schlick : More climbing... : Photo
By: slim When: Jun 11, 2013

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Comments: hey jj, what is that? i recognize the wall in the background, so i think i know which wall this photo is at, but i can't think of a route like this at that wall???? great photo!


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Dark Side : Kinesthesia (5.12a)
By: slim When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: Good climbing but unfortunately soiled by a pair of drilled 2 finger pockets at the end of the business. If you are going to drill pockets, at least radius the lip a bit.... The hardware is in bad shape. I would recommend stick clipping the first bolt, but this is basically impossible due to the spinning, homemade hanger.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Dark Side : I Scare Myself (5.11b R)
By: slim When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: The hardware on this route is in poor shape, and the bolts are way to the right of the natural climbing. If the hardware and locations were modernized, this would be a popular route. The actual climbing on it is very good.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Dark Side : The Crack's On Top (5.11a/b)
By: slim When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: Good climbing but poorly bolted.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Dark Side : The Plum (5.12a)
By: slim When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: It's kind of funny that this was listed as 10a for a long time. I know quite a few people who have gotten on it and been spanked. Newest guide calls it 12a, which is about right.

Great climb with well-protected, very interesting, technical movement.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Radio Head : Lady Fingers (5.10b)
By: slim When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: Couple tricky thin spots on this one. One or two of the bolts on the upper part of the slab were in weird locations that were tough to clip and didn't really protect against the ledges below.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Radio Head : Crandall Hammer Arete (5.11a)
By: slim When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: Bolts are in kind of weird locations, like 4 feet above ledges. Couple areas with ledge fall potential. Ok climbing though.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Radio Head : Heat Stroke (5.12a)
By: slim When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: This would be a good first 12. Very well-bolted, you can consistently sneak in clips from good stances. Really fun climbing on this one.


Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Rainy Day Rock : Slippery When Wet (5.7) : Photo
By: slim When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: Definitely harder than they look.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Dark Side : The Welcoming (5.11c/d)
By: slim When: May 20, 2013

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Comments: I thought this one felt at least as hard, probably harder than the 12a immediately to the left (go east old man). My first time I was reluctant to head to the finger crack and tried to stay more in line with the bolts - this felt like 5.way-out-of-my-pay-grade. Second time was a lot better but still felt pretty hard.

All 3 routes on this buttress could use some hardware love.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : Three Stooges (5.12a/b)
By: slim When: May 15, 2013

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Comments: Difficult route to assess in terms of grade and quality. Easy chossing for the first half, up to a big ledge. Continuous semi-difficult climbing above the ledge, with really hard clipping. Kind of felt like 11c climbing and 12b clipping off weird balance and bad feet. Kind of spooky with the ledge below. Between the scrambling first half, ledge, and crux, clipping it gets a few demerits. The meat of the climbing is quite good though.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Risky Business (5.10c R) : Photo
By: slim When: May 13, 2013

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Comments: or to re-phrase it, the gear is naught....


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Capitalist Crag : Lower Capitalist Crag : Stroh's (5.11-)
By: slim When: May 7, 2013

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Comments: I hope not, it was very handy. Fun route, Darren!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Shirt Tail Peak : Comment : Photo
By: slim When: May 1, 2013

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Comments: Printemps dans Eldo....


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : World Peace (5.12a)
By: slim When: Apr 29, 2013

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Comments: Excellent route with fun climbing. Cool crux bulge where the main difficulty is narrowing down the options. I'm surprised the loose flake is still there, in the lower section. Kind of spooky and hard to avoid.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Vault : 14 Carats (5.12b)
By: slim When: Apr 29, 2013

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Comments: Perfect climbing on this one, absolutely fantastic. An excellent choice for making the transition from Shelf 12a's to 12b's - no brutal stopper/finger wrecking moves, but a lot of fairly difficult climbing to string together.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Aoxamoxoa (5.12b)
By: slim When: Apr 22, 2013

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Comments: Really fun route and well protected, although it is advantageous to have the draws pre-hung (couple clips just out of reach). The upper crux really drives home the old "try to get as much weight on your feet" mantra....


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The North End : Makadon (5.11a)
By: slim When: Apr 15, 2013

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Comments: This is a really good, fun route. The rock has 3 distinct sections - the lower part is that fun grippy brown stuff that makes nice edges, the middle is this wild, black coral with a flat face and weird knobs (very unique), and the top is that really cool, fluted rock. Highly recommended.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cliffs of Insanity : To The Pain (5.10- PG13)
By: slim When: Apr 12, 2013

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Comments: damn, with all this hub bub i'm gonna have to climb this route and see what the hell is going on here.

is there a scene in the movie where the main bad guy says he is going to have to build a better brute squad? i think i watched it in high school, so its been a while.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Optimator : Hefe Weissen (5.10)
By: slim When: Apr 10, 2013

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Comments: nice short route, good one to end the day with. cool little perch up on the ledge.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Optimator : Miller Genuine Draft (5.11)
By: slim When: Apr 10, 2013

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Comments: fun route with several distinct sections - blank stemming corner, super fun roof, and upper cracks that have everything from thumb stacking to OW. shares the upper half with the route to the left (lucky lager).


Location: Climbing Gear Discussion : Petzl Spirit Biner breaks f... : Post : Photo
By: slim When: Apr 9, 2013

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Comments: i think you are kind of being mis-leading here. on both photos, the area between the line and the gate should be red - the gate is what matters. if you make a comparison between this same area on both draws, you will see there really isn't much difference in area, and that the line of load is pretty similar.


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