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tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.


Member Since: Dec 1, 2004
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Point Rank: # 281
Total Points: 1,974
Last Year: 345
Last 30 Days: 91
2 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has slim been climbing?










Contributions


All 8338 | Routes 72 | Areas 5 | Photos 17 | Page Improvements | Comments 1094 | Posts 2484 | Stars 2384 | Ratings 2282
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Red Wall : Begin Again (5.12a)
By: slim When: Sep 9, 2013

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Comments: Climbing is fairly cool on this route, but the location of the bolt at the crux (to the right, around the really sharp serrated arete) runs both pieces of the rope perpendicular over a dangerous edge. A fall here would have a serious probability of chopping the rope, and the climbing is difficult. I was really fucking gripped here.

Just curious to see if the DH folks would mind if I moved this bolt up and to the left (just over the roof and slightly left of the arete). This would allow easy ... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Crimpfest Wall : Dave's Dilemma (5.11a)
By: slim When: Sep 9, 2013

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Comments: Excellent climbing on this one. The 2 lower runout sections wouldn't be bad if the rock was 100% solid (which it isn't). I broke a foothold way above a bolt, at the mantle, and was fortunate not to pitch. The climbing isn't hard through this section, but if 11a is at your limit, you will probably want to be careful.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Crimpfest Wall : Crocodile Rock (5.12a)
By: slim When: Sep 9, 2013

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Comments: I thought this route was pretty awesome. The climbing is excellent and continuous, basically from the time you leave the ground until the last ramble to the anchors (I used the old ones on the left to get down, worked pretty well). The crocodile feature is really cool, the crux is cryptic and semi-improbable. The upper crux is perfect climbing. The only slight knock against this route would be that several key holds seemed pretty fragile, particularly the pancake flake at the upper crux.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Sentinel : Koon's Corner (5.9)
By: slim When: Sep 9, 2013

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Comments: Definitely some stemming on this one. Bring a wire brush, when I did it there was a lot of lichen.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Angeles National Forest : Texas Canyon : ' : ... : Photo
By: slim When: Sep 6, 2013

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Comments: metal health will drive you mad!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Carruthers-Hauser (5.10+)
By: slim When: Sep 6, 2013

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Comments: yeah, it think it was called S&P or something like that. really good route. pretty quiet over in that neck of the woods, once you get past excuse station...


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Headstone : The V-Slaught (5.12c)
By: slim When: Sep 6, 2013

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Comments: Yeah, I remember it being really weird. You kind of can't think about it, otherwise you will convince yourself that what you are about to try absolutely won't work.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Carruthers-Hauser (5.10+)
By: slim When: Sep 5, 2013

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Comments: steve, did you happen to also do the route between good excuse and CH? long big hands flake sort of thing?

thanks for adding this one, we were going to do it last spring but ran out of daylight.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond
By: slim When: Sep 4, 2013

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Comments: See William McGehee's comment above.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Mural Wall : Red Hot Chili Powder (5.10b)
By: slim When: Sep 3, 2013

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Comments: I did block party when it was first put up. The rock quality wasn't great on it either, but I think it was generally more solid than RHCP. I think it also has more bolts. It is definitely less sketchy. I have talked to several other folks who have climbed RHCP and their impression was similar to mine.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Mural Wall : Red Hot Chili Powder (5.10b)
By: slim When: Sep 3, 2013

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Comments: Man, I would be pretty shocked if it was a Bob D. route. Totally not his style of bolting.

The day I did it, several parties had tried it and all bailed off of one of their draws. At the end of the day, they asked if I could do it and set up a TR for them so they could get their draw back. I figured no problem, it's only 10b. I thought it was really sketchy. There was one clip in particular that if the hold broke, which seemed fairly probable, I would have been ordering a new wheelchair.... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Mural Wall : Red Hot Chili Powder (5.10b)
By: slim When: Sep 3, 2013

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Comments: I don't think it is a Bob D. route, I don't think he would have bolted it like this. I suspect that the person who bolted this hasn't bolted many routes. It is really bad.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Mural Wall : Red Hot Chili Powder (5.10b)
By: slim When: Sep 3, 2013

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Comments: I don't think this is a MJM route, he generally bolts routes so that a leader breaking into the grade is unlikely to get hurt. This route is definitely not bolted that way.

I climbed this route a couple years ago, and I have to say it is definitely among the very worst routes at Shelf. The climbing is kind of lame, the rock quality is very poor, and the bolting is terrible.

The worst part is the first few bolts above the nasty flake. The rock quality is very poor and one or more of the bo... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Sister Superior Group : Jah Man (5.10) : Photo
By: slim When: Aug 30, 2013

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Comments: i have sent quite a few old rigids to yates for re-slinging and they haven't ever denied my request.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Centerfold (5.9+) : Photo
By: slim When: Aug 27, 2013

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Comments: Just yankin' yer chain... :)


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Centerfold (5.9+) : Photo
By: slim When: Aug 26, 2013

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Comments: If you zoom in real closely, you can see the bolts on Reefer Madness.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Crag Ranch : Throwin' the Shit Fit (5.11)
By: slim When: Aug 26, 2013

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Comments: Did this route last summer. I thought the first pitch was pretty tough for the grade. Awkward as hell.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Animal Riots Activist (5.12a)
By: slim When: Aug 26, 2013

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Comments: Interesting reading the comments after climbing this recently. I'll chip in my .02:

Toe cam - I have no idea where you would use a toe cam to make it easier, it seemed like the holds were all facing the wrong way for this tactic(???).

Hard/easy... my first go felt really hard, but it was pretty hot and humid, which isn't a good combo for this (or any) route. After figuring it out, it was still not super easy.

Somebody calls it 11c, and their tick comments say 'onsight with a rest' or somet... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Deckers : Java Dome : South Face : Vertical Beach Party (5.9 R)
By: slim When: Aug 21, 2013

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Comments: Same thing happened to me on the same route about 9 years ago. There are a ton of those same time bombs all over the place.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Blue Gramma Cliff : The Event Horizon (5.13 C1)
By: slim When: Aug 12, 2013

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Comments: i have driven past this and looked up at it for many years. i always kind of called it the king of the desert for some reason. awesome looking line that welcomes you to the creek. i wondered if anybody had done it, it was such a prominent line. i have no idea why, but i never walked up and looked at it. probably because it is really intimidating looking.

anyway, saw your rope on it (i think it was yours) maybe a year or so ago and it really intrigued me. who was up there checking it out? ... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Upper Blair : John's Tower : Jamminy Crackit (5.11b)
By: slim When: Aug 12, 2013

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Comments: Definitely, although they are quite different.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Back to Black (5.11d)
By: slim When: Aug 12, 2013

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Comments: tough mantel.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Pansee Sauvage (5.11b R)
By: slim When: Aug 9, 2013

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Comments: Long ways to the anchors, and the last little bit isn't trivial.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Thriller on the Pillar (5.10b)
By: slim When: Aug 9, 2013

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Comments: man, it took me several tries figuring out which way to go up there! i up and downed, placing and removing, traversing to and fro. i definitely found it mentally engaging and somewhat puzling.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Claim Jumper (5.12a)
By: slim When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: after doing sentry box this route was somewhat of a letdown. i have no idea how this could get 4 stars. unaesthetic, awkward, greasy climbing, sometimes on not great rock, make up about 2/3 of the route. the finger crack above is pretty good, but easy. there are at least a 100 better finger cracks in squamish.

i was kind of surprised that a lot of people call it 11d. i thought claim jumper was a bit harder than sentry box, but i might have been pretty tired at that point. also, i always fi... more >>


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