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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Upper Devil's Playground : Formicae (5.10a PG13)
By: slim When: Aug 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think both of you were worrying me. Not to mention there were a few dogs that seemed like they wanted to follow you guys up it. Did Jacob do it also? Can't remember, I think he was there, but he has mo' bwains. That was a fun trip, lot of folks there.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : ... : Photo
By: slim When: Aug 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anka looks danka for sure. Yikes.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Upper Devil's Playground : Formicae (5.10a PG13)
By: slim When: Aug 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ha ha, I totally remember that. There was a pile of us camped there and randy brought a bunch of brisket. I had a few barley sodas, looked up, and figured you guys were working on a Darwin Award. It looked pretty sketchy!
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Location: CO : Golden : The Quarry Wall : Bone Collector aka Bone Cru... (5.12b/c)
By: slim When: Aug 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did you ever go up there with Cameron Tague? I think I remember him talking about a crack that fits the description/location at lunch one day.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : Cosmosis (5.9+)
By: slim When: Aug 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: IIRC, you can get a pretty good (but inobvious) #3 Camalot in just before the lower crux.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Witches' Tower : War is Love (5.11b/c)
By: slim When: Aug 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Calling this one of the best pitches of the grade in the canyon is pretty silly. There is about 10 feet of climbing on it, then a bunch of meandering up easy dirty/lichen climbing. The protection isn't well thought out either. The 3rd bolt should be lower so you can sneak a quick clip off the lower gaston. In it its current location, the stance is still bad, and if you blow the clip you will probably crater on the starting block. I don't think I would recommend it to somebody breaking into ... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : The Art of Dreaming (5.12)
By: slim When: Aug 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I wasn't that impressed with this route, given the hype I had heard about it. Lacks an independent start, crumbly/flaky rock for the feet during the crux, the bolts through the crux are located to make the clips as awkward as possible, greasy unpleasant climbing, lowering and retrieving the draws is a pain, etc. Definitely glad to not have to do this one again.
Hard to grade as the crux is just greasy. Probably 12a during cool dry conditions but really gropy when warm and humid. The roof pro... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Sleepless in Boulder (5.11a/b)
By: slim When: Aug 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Burly start but luckily you are fresh for this part. Mostly easy climbing. I didn't really like the bolt placement up at the 'step across' move. The move isn't that difficult but a little awkward. The bolt should have been placed higher, so that you could clip from the high point of the good hand holds. There is a ledge about 10 feet below, and your belayer can't hear or see you at this spot.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Headstone : Scratchy Face (5.10d)
By: slim When: Aug 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Going straight up off the top of the flake into the roof felt pretty hard. The bolt is placed really low here, so it doesn't offer the best protection from landing on the flake. You will probably want your belayer paying attention here. The rockover up above is kind of tricky, too.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Headstone : Chickenhead (5.8)
By: slim When: Aug 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is really fun and a lot better than it looks from the bottom. The second pitch is really cool, as the climbing is steep, but the chimney makes it secure.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Hangdog Cafe : Crimp Scampi (5.11a)
By: slim When: Aug 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is fun route that provides a nice warmup. Along with the 10a to the right (Chossburger), Crimp Scampi provides a nice, logical warmup progression for the crag. Also, it is handy for working on the 12c to the left (Dyne and Dash).
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Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Crag Ranch : High Plains Poser (5.10c)
By: slim When: Aug 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Another fun 2 pitch route that makes a great warmup. The second pitch is remniscent of more typical Platte slab climbing, with some friable holds and friction/texture moves. Thankfully it is better protected though. Nice little perch on top.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Crag Ranch : Life On The Ranch (5.10d)
By: slim When: Aug 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a nice 2 pitch route with varied, interesting climbing. I thought the slab on the first pitch was the crux of the route. The holds are very small, not positive, and the feet look slippery (but somehow aren't). This part has excellent protection, thankfully, as executing these moves well above a bolt would be nervewracking.
The second pitch has really cool climbing using a big hanging flake. The flake has pieces of it that sound pretty scary, so I tried to avoid gorilla tugging and j... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : The Wisdom (5.11d R)
By: slim When: Aug 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Many years ago I met Jim Garber at Morrison while doing the Wisdom Simulator, and he said that he used that boulder problem to train for this route.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Photo
By: slim When: Aug 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: wow. that is a really good photo.
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Location: Matt Kuehl : Profile Photos : Photo
By: slim When: Aug 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: awesome photo. damn, that looks sweet.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Boulder Quartz System (5.12a)
By: slim When: Aug 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: What a neat route. The climbing on this is really fun, the quartz cubes are unique. Very well-protected and the moves flow nicely. After getting through the first part of the crux, I thought it was in the bag, but it keeps a consistent level of difficulty for a bit. I could see 11d or 12a either way without too much argument. Might be easier on a cool dry day. Highly recommended.
Easiest way to get your draws back is to TR it and clean on the way up. I tried to grab them on the way down,... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Chicken Head Ranch : Extra Crispy (5.10b)
By: slim When: Aug 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a pretty cool route. The crux is pretty thin and sequential, with excellent protection. The upper part is easy, but the features are very enjoyable.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Chicken Head Ranch : Yellow Dot (5.12a)
By: slim When: Aug 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: We found this one oddly difficult for 12a at Devil's Head. It seemed considerably more difficult than the other 12a's (or pretty much anything up to 12c for that matter) I've done there. Kind of bizarre.
The climbing just to get up to the crux is fairly in your face. This is some great climbing. The crux seemed pretty low probability, particularly on a hot humid day. It took us a bit to figure something out. I didn't really find the moves in the crux to be that enjoyable, but I typically do... more >>
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Location: CO : Durango : Lemon Reservoir
By: slim When: Jul 31, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Were these routes bolted ground up on lead?
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Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : The Castle : Wiggins Route (5.10b PG13)
By: slim When: Jul 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Glad somebody finally posted this route - I have been meaning to for probably 6 years or so, but for some reason I never got around to it. It's a fun route that should see more traffic.
The long flare pitch is burly for the grade. The bolts at the top were scary. The leg loop of my harness broke about 10 feet into the free hanging rappel. Good times!
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Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Starcastle : Lady Of The Lake (5.11b)
By: slim When: Jul 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: excellent route with sustained climbing in the 9 to 10 range on a nicely featured slab. the protection is very good, although there is one clip up high that is a little tenuous. edging shoes are helpful on this one.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Starcastle : Warping The Gale (5.11a)
By: slim When: Jul 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: a good route with a lot of fun climbing on big holds, up to a slightly awkward finish. the arete work was pretty cool.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Starcastle : The Citadel (5.10b)
By: slim When: Jul 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: fun route. as noted, the bit before the roof is kind of in your face, and the roof isn't too bad. i was kind of surprised at the little runout to the anchors. this section felt like the crux, and at the end of a long day of climbing i have to say i was pretty focused.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Crag Ranch : Quickdraw Rustler (5.12a)
By: slim When: Jul 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: i thought this was a really fun route. the only thing it lacks is length, and maybe the start is a little mungy. very well bolted, although the final clip might be reachy if you are short, but you might end up with better feet. the steep undercling/sidepull buckets are a lot of fun.
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