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tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.


Member Since: Dec 1, 2004
Last Visit: 6 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 281
Total Points: 1,975
Last Year: 346
Last 30 Days: 91
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has slim been climbing?










Contributions


All 8349 | Routes 72 | Areas 5 | Photos 17 | Page Improvements | Comments 1095 | Posts 2486 | Stars 2388 | Ratings 2286
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Unknown name( 20 in 2nd ed... (5.10)
By: slim When: Jan 2, 2014

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Comments: i moved Tom T's description from 'polaris' to this route to give some more info. in particular, i think his gear beta and the note about having a stopper knot with a 60m are pretty helpful.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Polaris (5.10+)
By: slim When: Jan 2, 2014

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Comments: ok, i think i finally have polaris squared away.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Unknown name( 20 in 2nd ed... (5.10) : Photo
By: slim When: Jan 2, 2014

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Comments: i moved this photo from 'polaris' to this route.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Unknown name( 20 in 2nd ed... (5.10) : Photo
By: slim When: Jan 2, 2014

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Comments: i moved this photo from the route 'polaris' to this route.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek
By: slim When: Dec 13, 2013

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Comments: hey ya bunch of sand eating cam horders, i'm thinking about trying to organize the unnamed/unknown/newly-renamed routes a bit so that it is easier to find them when you are at the cliff. for example the 'unknown' 5.11 on the far left side of battle of the bulge buttress would be renamed 'unknown 5.11 RF corner with 2 bolts'. etc.

Curious to see if anybody has any heartburn about it, if not i will try to get started on some of the smaller walls first. this will probably take some trial an... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Divinity School (5.12b)
By: slim When: Dec 2, 2013

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Comments: This is a fun route which doesn't really get that much traffic. From below, it looks like there are no holds - but they keep magically appearing in the right places. The final headwall would be pretty hard without using the crack to the left.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : New Ethics (5.12a)
By: slim When: Dec 2, 2013

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Comments: This is a pretty good route, worth doing if you are in the area. I think it was always 12a until the latest guidebook, which upgraded it to 12b for some reason. It seems pretty similar in difficulty (and climbing) to the 12a to the left (The Usual Suspects).


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : The Usual Suspects (5.12a)
By: slim When: Dec 2, 2013

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Comments: The meat of this route is excellent, albeit really short. Unfortunately it is fairly high up, above a pile of nasty flakes. Between the natural sag in the rope (due to the big ledges), the height, and the ankle-breaking flakes, you will probably want a close belay.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Institutional Meat (5.12b)
By: slim When: Dec 2, 2013

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Comments: Mostly easy, but fairly fun climbing with layback flakes to a tough crux. Even being pretty tall, it is a big throw with stretched out feet. A shorter person would likely have a tough time on this, as there aren't many decent higher foot options. I would call this a height-dependent route - probably 12a if you are tall and 5.hard if you are shorter.

When I did it not too long ago, the anchor was a total botch job. I think it is on the list to get replaced.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Fin Wall : Beauty and the Beast (5.12-)
By: slim When: Dec 2, 2013

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Comments: great little route with ultra-sticky fingers. bloom's latest recommends (7) .4 camalots and (2) .3 camalots. i actually used more .3's than .4's - maybe (6) .3 and (4) .4 or so. this would be a good first 12 at the creek - not too long, fairly straight forward, lots of fun.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Unknown Right of Too Much C... (5.11-)
By: slim When: Dec 2, 2013

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Comments: a fun, western route that throws a lot at you. i burrowed way back into the squeeze chimney. later that night i put my jeans in my clothing bag (without knowing how much sand had gotten in my pockets). next morning i was like, WTF is with all the sand in my bag? the very last stretch is pretty cool - don't get tunnel vision or you can miss out on some merciful options.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Leverage (5.10c)
By: slim When: Dec 2, 2013

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Comments: I thought this was a really good addition for the area. It is fairly long, the climbing is really fun, and it is well-protected.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Spiney Ridge : The Rising (5.12a/b)
By: slim When: Dec 2, 2013

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Comments: The climbing on the lower section is great, but the upper part kind of deteriorates into weird sharp/slippery/crumbly/bubbly techno-piss climbing. I thought the top was pretty desperate.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Spiney Ridge : Straight Rocket (5.11c)
By: slim When: Dec 2, 2013

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Comments: Didn't really think this route was that great. Not the best quality rock, lower crux is kind of poorly protected (seemed like a good opportunity to pummel your belayer if you come off), the anchor is crappy, and the climbing is just so-so.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Sparks Wall : The Hawk (5.11)
By: slim When: Nov 23, 2013

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Comments: thanks for updating chris, i sorted the route accordingly.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Polaris (5.10+)
By: slim When: Nov 23, 2013

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Comments: i will try to merge this description in the unnamed route left of desert shield, probably after thanksgiving.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Photo
By: slim When: Nov 21, 2013

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Comments: ...and it is probably not the bolts you need to worry about but rather the pins.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Bioturbation Wall : Alienation (5.10)
By: slim When: Nov 18, 2013

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Comments: i thought this route was just kind of ok. the first 1/3 is easy scrambling. the crux is pulling on overhanging loose blocks, with pro in the aforementioned blocks, directly above a ledge. you definitely do not want things to go bad here, or they would go really bad. i definitely would not recommend this to somebody who doesn't have some desert climbing experience.

the section above this is fun off fist and OW, but kind of short.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Free Form Wall : Freeform (5.12a)
By: slim When: Nov 18, 2013

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Comments: A Shelf classic, and for good reason. This route has it all - funky cobble geodes, sweet pockets, techy face, steep headwall. Way fun.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Slot Machine (5.11)
By: slim When: Nov 18, 2013

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Comments: great route. bloom's guide says the grade is extremely hand sized dependent, but i don't really agree. it has everything from tight fingers to biggish hands - everybody will have a good size, and everybody will have a bad size.

really small gear (black, blue alien) to get to the bolt, a few each from tight fingers to off fingers, and fairly heavy on #1 and #2 camalots up at the top.

super fun!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Fin Wall : Flight Time (5.12-) : Photo
By: slim When: Nov 14, 2013

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Comments: great photo!


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Hot Beach (5.12b)
By: slim When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: One of the all time classic 12a's at Shelf, and for good reason. No brutal show stopper moves on it but a lot of climbing at a fairly difficult grade. Top that off with a heartbreaking redpoint crux at the top, and you get one hell of a route.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Free Form Wall : Onomatopoeia (5.12a)
By: slim When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: Burly start, somewhat remniscent of Little Mecca, but it takes a bit longer to get to any sort of hold you can really shake out on. The upper section is really good also with some nice crisp pockets.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : The Smoking Pickle (5.12a)
By: slim When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: Excellent route, slightly easier than Spontaneous Combustion (both the lower crux climbing as well as the slab climbing above). I can't believe this route wasn't put up until 2004. Totally blows my mind that such an awesome line hid in plain view for nearly 20 years.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : North Six Shooter Peak : Liquid Sky (5.11+) : Photo
By: slim When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: i'm just offering the goodies! you're gonna have to talk GabeO into another trip up there, but i bet that should be easy to do.... :)


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