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tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.


Member Since: Dec 1, 2004
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Point Rank: # 281
Total Points: 1,974
Last Year: 345
Last 30 Days: 91
2 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has slim been climbing?










Contributions


All 8338 | Routes 72 | Areas 5 | Photos 17 | Page Improvements | Comments 1094 | Posts 2484 | Stars 2384 | Ratings 2282
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Trojan Bunny Buttress
By: slim When: Jul 30, 2014

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Comments: Has anybody made it up to the TBB this season? We made a feeble attempt a couple weeks ago. Between my wife being gimpy and me being wimpy the creek crossing didn't look too enticing, so we bailed. Curious to see if anybody has found a good way across - it looks like the creek has changed a lot since I was last there a few years ago.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Fiddler on the Roof (5.10+) : Photo
By: slim When: Jul 23, 2014

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Comments: i don't think following this pitch is going to be much less scary than leading it....


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : ... : Photo
By: slim When: Jul 16, 2014

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Comments: Are you sure this is Outer Space? Looks more like XM(?).


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : Sheer Terror (5.12c X)
By: slim When: Jul 2, 2014

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Comments: You should put together a risk assessment/hazard analysis chart for this route. That would be pretty funny - the whole thing would pretty much be red.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : The Patio : For Whom the Bell Tolls (5.11b)
By: slim When: Jun 30, 2014

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Comments: This is another route at the patio that starts out with excellent climbing and protection and then kind of fizzles out. If the anchors were placed at the top of the dihedral, this would probably be a 2 or 3 star route. Unfortunately, you are forced to climb/traverse through munge to get to the anchor on the left hand route. You end up spending more time horsing around on this crap than climbing the good section of the dihedral.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : The Patio : Bottom Feeder (5.11b)
By: slim When: Jun 30, 2014

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Comments: Kind of a weird route. Sort of a mixed route, yet in the upper climbing bolts are literally 6 inches away from good cracks. Yet, the crux section isn't very well-protected against the rampy/ledgy stuff below. If the protection was better thought out and the route adequately cleaned (bushes, lichen, crumbly rock), this would be a 1 or 2 star route. Half star in its current state.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : The Patio : Underbelly (5.12a)
By: slim When: Jun 30, 2014

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Comments: Agree with ac - this should have ended just above the start. The climbing above this is absolute garbage: absolutely filthy, mungy rock, crappy climbing. The icing on the cake is having to share the anchor out right, which tries to force you to re-climb it to clean your gear. Just say no.

I thought the start of this was as hard or harder than any of the 12a's at this crag. Not a lot to work with.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : The Patio : Antebellum (5.12a)
By: slim When: Jun 30, 2014

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Comments: Another good strenuous route at this crag. You can choose between bigger gear in better rock and more obstruction or smaller gear in less quality rock at the start - and this is a pretty key decision. The book says the crux is at the thin crack roof, but I thought this section was a lot easier than the start. A bit on the dirty side up higher, but not too bad. Well worth doing.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : The Patio : The War on Peace (5.12a/b)
By: slim When: Jun 30, 2014

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Comments: Really fun climbing on this one. The only, yet common, complaint was that the last bolt didn't provide good protection for the finish, particularly for shorter climbers doing it on sight. Overall, substantially easier than Clyde's Big Adventure but still probably in the 12a range.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : The Patio : Clyde's Big Adventure (5.12a)
By: slim When: Jun 30, 2014

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Comments: The climbing and protection on the lower half are perfect. On the upper section, the climbing is still good, but the bolting isn't the best. Between the 5th and 6th bolt, be prepared for tenuous climbing with a post-crux pump and bad ledge fall potential below your right foot. Falling here could be really, really bad. Another detraction is sharing the anchor out right with War on Peace, which makes for a traffic jam and difficult cleaning.

If these minor issues were spruced up, this would defin... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : The Patio : Carrying Futons (5.11c)
By: slim When: Jun 30, 2014

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Comments: Fun climbing with good protection. The opening section didn't feel much easier than the 12a's to the right, albeit a bit more brief.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Broken Rock : Fit for Life (5.12)
By: slim When: Jun 20, 2014

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Comments: I would like to watch a dozen good climbers do this one and see how they do it. I guess 12c is maybe an exageration, I was able to get it first go on TR (although absolutely barely). All total, I am 5/6 on it (fell on #5 last night, much swearing), but man is it hard as hell. I always feel like I am falling off of every move through that first 2 bolts off the ledge.

I am curious about Tony's comments about the small holds - I couldn't figure out how to use anything other than pretty dec... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Broken Rock : Fit for Life (5.12)
By: slim When: Jun 20, 2014

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Comments: I would have to disagree with the assumption that this route is easier if you are tall. The brutal undercling/laybacking would probably favor a shorter person. I thought this thing felt closer to 12c than 12a. I was really surprised at how hard it is, compared to other 12a's by the same FAs.

Overall, a good route. Would be a 3 star route if the shit was cleaned off of the best holds and some lichen was scrubbed.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Oceanic Wall : Sargasso Sea (5.12a)
By: slim When: Jun 8, 2014

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Comments: A blue TCU-sized piece can be used between bolts 2 and 3. The climbing through here is pretty easy, but it was wet when I did it, so it was kind of nice to have. The upper crux took a bit to figure out. I thought the protection here was a little weird. There is a ledge in a bad spot below, and you don't really get rewarded with a good clipping stance when you go for it. The 2nd bolt above the crux seemed poorly thought out also.

Overall, the climbing is really good. If the bolts were dialed i... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mountain Rose : Golden Rose (5.12a)
By: slim When: Jun 8, 2014

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Comments: Fun, little route with good protection at the crux. Tricky the first time, substantially easier the second time.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Witches' Tower : Teenage Terrorists (5.12a/b)
By: slim When: Jun 8, 2014

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Comments: The climbing is ok, but unfortunately it is an absolutely filthy pile. If for some reason you are compelled to climb this thing, bring a couple wire brushes, goggles, and a dust mask. I looked like I had been working in a lichen mine after climbing this thing. Also, the bolts could have been a little tighter through the start off of the ledge. Be prepared to 'make contact' with your belayer.

(edited to add) i went back up and scrubbed the lower section pretty thorougly which improved the climbi... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Witches' Tower : Tipskin Jihad (5.12a/b)
By: slim When: Jun 8, 2014

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Comments: Kind of a lame route. Climbing straight up the bolt line is way hard. On my second attempt with weather rolling in, I eeked out right and felt kind of dirty. According to the guidebook, this is the way to go, but it would have been nice if the bolts followed the climbing better.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Witches' Tower : Panic Attack (AKA BOB...Bom... (5.12-)
By: slim When: Jun 8, 2014

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Comments: Only about 10, maybe 15 feet of interesting climbing on this, and it is really dirty. The main seam feature seeps for long periods after wet weather.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Elephant Rock : Elephant Rock - East : Rye Crisp (5.8)
By: slim When: Jun 4, 2014

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Comments: no worries man.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Elephant Rock : Elephant Rock - East : Rye Crisp (5.8)
By: slim When: Jun 4, 2014

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Comments: sure, i guess you have a right to do it. that being said, other folks who show up have the right to complain to you and your friends. this isn't going to make you look like a leader.

you ask about setting up a TR, then say you are going to lead it... have you ever seen this route? my guess is that you probably don't have the gear to comfortably lead it. if it is even remotely close to your limit, you are probably going to want a lot of big gear.

there are a lot of fun routes at this grade... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Holdout : Beefeater (5.10b)
By: slim When: Jun 4, 2014

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Comments: 5'11" isn't tall :)


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Elephant Rock : Elephant Rock - East : Rye Crisp (5.8)
By: slim When: Jun 3, 2014

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Comments: dude, you're the one who asked. judging by how upset you are getting i get the impression that you part of you can identify with the points that have been raised.

if i knew that people have probably travelled a bit to do this route, i would feel bad if i had it tied up for the day with a TR for a handful of people. this is a route that a lot of folks aspire to lead - it would be a shame to deny them that opportunity just so a handful of folks can struggle up it all day on TR.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Elephant Rock : Elephant Rock - East : Rye Crisp (5.8)
By: slim When: Jun 2, 2014

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Comments: setting up a TR for 5 or 6 people on one of the most popular routes in the park, is indeed pretty lame. tons of other great routes of a similar grade in the area that would be a better choice. people will be breathing down your neck the whole time, complaining at you the whole time. i don't think it would be that enjoyable for your crew, much less everybody else.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 4X4 : Unnamed (5.10+)
By: slim When: May 30, 2014

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Comments: yeah, i couldn't really tell either. maybe we'll leave both entries up, and hopefully some folks will climb in that area and add some info. between the guidebooks being vague and not too many people climbing that far left it is a bit of a mystery.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 4X4 : Unnamed (5.10+)
By: slim When: May 28, 2014

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Comments: this sounds like it might be a duplicate route post with the route to the left(?). starts off with a slightly left leaning grippy .75 camalot splitter on the right wall, meets up with the corner about 50 feet up or so(?). when i did it there was a mangled .75 camalot fixed in there, but that was a while ago.


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