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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Dark Side : The Welcoming (5.11c/d)
By: slim When: 20 hours ago | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought this one felt at least as hard, probably harder than the 12a immediately to the left (go east old man). My first time I was reluctant to head to the finger crack and tried to stay more in line with the bolts - this felt like 5.way-out-of-my-pay-grade. Second time was a lot better but still felt pretty hard.
All 3 routes on this buttress could use some hardware love.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : West Face : ... : Photo
By: slim When: 20 hours ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Hmmm, I'm thinking you haven't climbed this route....
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : Three Stooges (5.12a/b)
By: slim When: 6 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Difficult route to assess in terms of grade and quality. Easy chossing for the first half, up to a big ledge. Continuous semi-difficult climbing above the ledge, with really hard clipping. Kind of felt like 11c climbing and 12b clipping off weird balance and bad feet. Kind of spooky with the ledge below. Between the scrambling first half, ledge, and crux, clipping it gets a few demerits. The meat of the climbing is quite good though.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Risky Business (5.10c R) : Photo
By: slim When: May 13, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: or to re-phrase it, the gear is naught....
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Capitalist Crag : Lower Capitalist Crag : Stroh's (5.11-)
By: slim When: May 7, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I hope not, it was very handy. Fun route, Darren!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Shirt Tail Peak : Comment : Photo
By: slim When: May 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Printemps dans Eldo....
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : World Peace (5.12a)
By: slim When: Apr 29, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent route with fun climbing. Cool crux bulge where the main difficulty is narrowing down the options. I'm surprised the loose flake is still there, in the lower section. Kind of spooky and hard to avoid.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Vault : 14 Carats (5.12b)
By: slim When: Apr 29, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Perfect climbing on this one, absolutely fantastic. An excellent choice for making the transition from Shelf 12a's to 12b's - no brutal stopper/finger wrecking moves, but a lot of fairly difficult climbing to string together.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Aoxamoxoa (5.12b)
By: slim When: Apr 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really fun route and well protected, although it is advantageous to have the draws pre-hung (couple clips just out of reach). The upper crux really drives home the old "try to get as much weight on your feet" mantra....
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The North End : Makadon (5.11a)
By: slim When: Apr 15, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a really good, fun route. The rock has 3 distinct sections - the lower part is that fun grippy brown stuff that makes nice edges, the middle is this wild, black coral with a flat face and weird knobs (very unique), and the top is that really cool, fluted rock. Highly recommended.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cliffs of Insanity : To The Pain (5.10- PG13)
By: slim When: Apr 12, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: damn, with all this hub bub i'm gonna have to climb this route and see what the hell is going on here.
is there a scene in the movie where the main bad guy says he is going to have to build a better brute squad? i think i watched it in high school, so its been a while.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Optimator : Hefe Weissen (5.10)
By: slim When: Apr 10, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: nice short route, good one to end the day with. cool little perch up on the ledge.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Optimator : Miller Genuine Draft (5.11)
By: slim When: Apr 10, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: fun route with several distinct sections - blank stemming corner, super fun roof, and upper cracks that have everything from thumb stacking to OW. shares the upper half with the route to the left (lucky lager).
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Location: Climbing Gear Discussion : Petzl Spirit Biner breaks f... : Post : Photo
By: slim When: Apr 9, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: i think you are kind of being mis-leading here. on both photos, the area between the line and the gate should be red - the gate is what matters. if you make a comparison between this same area on both draws, you will see there really isn't much difference in area, and that the line of load is pretty similar.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The North End : Mono Jono (5.10c)
By: slim When: Apr 9, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Probably good to stick clip first bolt. For only 10c, this route has a stiff wake-up call. You might want to warm up your fingers a bit first.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The North End : The Function (5.11b)
By: slim When: Apr 9, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: 3rd bolt should be replaced. The exposed portion of the stud isn't long enough, and instead of having the recommended 3 threads exposed, the stud is actually recessed into the nut.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The North End : The Lifus's Farm Tools (5.10b)
By: slim When: Apr 9, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good route, but I thought the runout at the top kind of detracted from it. My partner and I both thought the crux was just below the anchor.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The North End : The Form (5.12a)
By: slim When: Apr 9, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent route. I thought it was every bit as good as 'The Function' - more continuous climbing, and it doesn't have that awkward runout mantle. A lot of groping on this one, there are a million pockets and few of them are good. I couldn't decide between 11d and 12a, so I let the consensus guide me.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Optimator : Kitchen Sink (5.11+)
By: slim When: Apr 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: superb route and perfectly named, as mentioned above. steven's rack suggestion looks pretty bold. i would recommend a bunch of pieces in the thin fingers to fingers sizes. it seems like there is always a finger crack available. pretty long route that is fairly strenuous, despite having a lot of rests.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Optimator : Hayutake (5.10+ PG13)
By: slim When: Apr 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: yeah, you're probably right :). at the time i didn't know the traverse would be easy - for some reason i thought it would be the crux of the route.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Selfish Wall : Hair and Roses (5.10-)
By: slim When: Mar 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: the climbing is decent, but the anchor location is in a location that is rough on the rock and the rope. if the anchor were moved a ways to the left (or perhaps, about 20 feet lower where the good climbing ends), it might be helpful.
gear selection seems way, way off (maybe the OP was thinking of the route 'mine' which is about 100 feet to the right. recommended gear -optional big piece for start, then finger to hand size pieces.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Optimator : Hayutake (5.10+ PG13)
By: slim When: Mar 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: a good way to do this route is to tie into both ends of your rope, use the 'left' rope to climb a ways up neat and get some gear. do the traverse and get some gear in 'hay u take' with the 'right' rope, make a few moves to get to a stance, untie the left rope (belayer can pull it down), then keep going with the 'right' rope.
doing it this way, it is well protected. fun route.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Sylvester (5.11)
By: slim When: Mar 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: the gear list seems to be copied from bloom, and most people will find it 'lacking'. i didn't find anywhere for a .4, and unless you are really, really solid you will want bigger than a #2. here is my suggested list (in camalots) - (2-4) .5, (1-2) .75, maybe 1 each #1 to #3, big piece for the top (ie old 4.5 camalot to new 6 camalot sized).
this thing is way harder than it looks. we did it as an end-of-day warm down route, and it was almost a melt down route. i forgot how ... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Puma (5.12-)
By: slim When: Mar 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: really fun route. i always enjoy placing a bunch of smaller stuff on a route that is at a reasonable grade. i think the old 12- rating was based on the terrible shoes and lack of our modern protection options. in EB's, trying to cram friends into this, i would find it really hard.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Unknown 67 (5.11)
By: slim When: Mar 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: fantastic route. i had wanted to climb it for a long time, but never seemed to make it over there. man, what a nice route - whenever you get stumped you look around and there is some feature that makes it work out. heavy on small stuff (blue alien to .4 camalot range, and a fair amount of that weird in-between size crack).
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