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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Disco Machine Gun (5.12) : Photo
By: slim When: Dec 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: nutt shot!
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Escalante Canyon : Zappa Wall : Mr. Sheeley (5.10-)
By: slim When: Dec 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is actually an existing route (Mr. Sheley, 10c, 150 ft). The pitch ends at the top of the pillar. As with many routes at Escalante, the climbing doesn't end when it gets wide. If bolts have sprouted 60 feet up, they probably won't last very long.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : Freerider (5.12d PG13) : Photo
By: slim When: Dec 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: two thumbs down on this one. the ditch is a dump already, please don't add to it.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Fringe Walls : The Sting (5.11+)
By: slim When: Dec 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: this is a pretty weird route for the creek. it almost climbs more like a route at red rocks. the crux has an improbable feel to it, but once you commit to doing something that you feel you shouldn't be doing in the desert (like yanking for dear life on a crimp), it ends up working out ok. the start is slightly sketchy, and the finish is fantastic but short.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Blue Gramma Cliff : Blue Gramma (5.11-)
By: slim When: Dec 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: time hasn't been too good to this route - it has gotten quite eroded at the lip of the crack. good thumb stacks, but slippery feet.
on a side note, when i was cleaning the gear on the way down, i'm not sure if the flake shifted a little or what, but 8 pieces in a row were absolutely crushed in there. they took a lot of work to remove, and when i removed one of them the whole flake made a loud 'pop' noise.
gear was mostly .5 camalots with a few bigger and a couple smaller.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : Dancing Queen (5.11+)
By: slim When: Dec 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: such a good route - black alien to #5 camalot, gives you a little taste of everything.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Sinbad Wall : The Big "O" (5.10)
By: slim When: Dec 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: way physical. i haven't climbed a squeeze chimney in a while, and i was pretty rusty on it. i felt pretty whipped for the rest of the day. unfortunately i didn't see the bolt from below, and felt much mental discomfort. you can get decent gear through the start by using the left flake, but you will want to use really long runnders to keep the rope off the knife edge.
great job kw, henceforth if i see your initials on a plaque i will feel much intrepidation.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : Renaissance (5.11a)
By: slim When: Dec 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good climbing, but the hardware and bolt placements aren't the best.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Fish Wall : Unknown 5.10a (5.10a)
By: slim When: Dec 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a nice route wth good protection for the most part. Getting to the 2nd bolt looks a bit sketchy but works out ok.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Mural Wall : Marching Out (5.8)
By: slim When: Dec 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route with a bit of a 'heads up' feel to it, probably due to the start.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Mural Wall : Morpheus (5.11b)
By: slim When: Dec 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route but not remotely close to 11a. If you lead in the low 10 range and are fairly strong, this would be a good route to jump on.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Original Meat Wall : Meat Hooks (5.10+)
By: slim When: Nov 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nope.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : Turbo Road (5.11d)
By: slim When: Nov 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a good route. The first 4 or 5 bolts have great climbing, and the upper half is pretty fun also.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : Pesko Sour (5.11a)
By: slim When: Nov 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I wasn't a fan of the 3rd or 4th bolt location. There is semi-hidden hold that is good but hard to see. When I did the route, a crimp broke while I was clipping, and I have no idea how I didn't come off.
The upper part isn't hard but isn't well-protected either. Also, as a side note, the route to the left also has a poor finish on mungy rock with not so great protection.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : Freebird (5.10-)
By: slim When: Nov 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: what a great route, an amazing find for such a late year (as with most routes at the wall).
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Fringe Walls : Neutron Dance (5.10+)
By: slim When: Nov 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: excellent route, just a total blast. 80m gets you all the way down easily, not sure if a 70 would do it or not(?).
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Disappointment Cliffs : 2 Much (5.11)
By: slim When: Nov 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: bandito route, maybe a bit left of the short steep fist splitter?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : The Host (5.11c/d)
By: slim When: Nov 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Accidently climbed this thinking it was Rage.... When I was up there, I was thinking 'damn, this is tougher than I remember it'. Kind of an awkward flick to a weird jam.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Rush (5.11b)
By: slim When: Nov 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did it a couple weeks ago, and I thought it was a good improvement to the route. Bolts are well placed, and the climbing is fun.
On a separate note, if the bolt above the first roof was moved to either side of the crack (instead of directly with the crack), the rope would stay out of the pinch point better.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Public Service Wall : Morning Wood (5.11)
By: slim When: Oct 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: really fun route - the splitter #2 friends at the start is textbook cramming.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Public Service Wall : Light Duty (5.9-)
By: slim When: Oct 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: to the (edited, left, checked my notes. for some reason i originally thought it was to the right). fun little warm up.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Public Service Wall : Repo man (5.11-)
By: slim When: Oct 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: good western route. i seem to recall just a leeeeetle bit more than one move of offwidth.....
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Sabbatical Wall : The Womb (5.11)
By: slim When: Oct 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: nice little route and well worth the effort to scramble up onto the little ledge. a good flare and some great thumb stacking. heavy on .75 camalots. bring some gear to make an anchor on the ledge (maybe a #2 and a .5??).
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Sabbatical Wall : Miscarriage (5.11)
By: slim When: Oct 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: this is a really long route. it might be a little more than 165'. IIRC the plaque might have said 175.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : Money (5.10)
By: slim When: Oct 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: a very nice, and easily overlooked route. very much worth doing. i can't remember if the bottom is a little heads up or not(?). maybe steve can remember.
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