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tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.


Member Since: Dec 1, 2004
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 294
Total Points: 1,868
Last Year: 308
Last 30 Days: 11
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has slim been climbing?










Contributions


All 8252 | Routes 63 | Areas 5 | Photos 17 | Page Improvments | Comments 1078 | Posts 2462 | Stars 2360 | Ratings 2267
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : The Usual Suspects (5.12a)
By: slim When: Dec 2, 2013

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Comments: The meat of this route is excellent, albeit really short. Unfortunately it is fairly high up, above a pile of nasty flakes. Between the natural sag in the rope (due to the big ledges), the height, and the ankle-breaking flakes, you will probably want a close belay.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Institutional Meat (5.12b)
By: slim When: Dec 2, 2013

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Comments: Mostly easy, but fairly fun climbing with layback flakes to a tough crux. Even being pretty tall, it is a big throw with stretched out feet. A shorter person would likely have a tough time on this, as there aren't many decent higher foot options. I would call this a height-dependent route - probably 12a if you are tall and 5.hard if you are shorter.

When I did it not too long ago, the anchor was a total botch job. I think it is on the list to get replaced.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Fin Wall : Beauty and the Beast (5.12-)
By: slim When: Dec 2, 2013

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Comments: great little route with ultra-sticky fingers. bloom's latest recommends (7) .4 camalots and (2) .3 camalots. i actually used more .3's than .4's - maybe (6) .3 and (4) .4 or so. this would be a good first 12 at the creek - not too long, fairly straight forward, lots of fun.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Unknown Right of Too Much C... (5.11-)
By: slim When: Dec 2, 2013

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Comments: a fun, western route that throws a lot at you. i burrowed way back into the squeeze chimney. later that night i put my jeans in my clothing bag (without knowing how much sand had gotten in my pockets). next morning i was like, WTF is with all the sand in my bag? the very last stretch is pretty cool - don't get tunnel vision or you can miss out on some merciful options.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Leverage (5.10c)
By: slim When: Dec 2, 2013

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Comments: I thought this was a really good addition for the area. It is fairly long, the climbing is really fun, and it is well-protected.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Spiney Ridge : The Rising (5.12a/b)
By: slim When: Dec 2, 2013

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Comments: The climbing on the lower section is great, but the upper part kind of deteriorates into weird sharp/slippery/crumbly/bubbly techno-piss climbing. I thought the top was pretty desperate.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Spiney Ridge : Straight Rocket (5.11c)
By: slim When: Dec 2, 2013

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Comments: Didn't really think this route was that great. Not the best quality rock, lower crux is kind of poorly protected (seemed like a good opportunity to pummel your belayer if you come off), the anchor is crappy, and the climbing is just so-so.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Sparks Wall : The Hawk (5.11)
By: slim When: Nov 23, 2013

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Comments: thanks for updating chris, i sorted the route accordingly.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Polaris (5.10+)
By: slim When: Nov 23, 2013

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Comments: i will try to merge this description in the unnamed route left of desert shield, probably after thanksgiving.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Photo
By: slim When: Nov 21, 2013

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Comments: ...and it is probably not the bolts you need to worry about but rather the pins.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Bioturbation Wall : Alienation (5.10)
By: slim When: Nov 18, 2013

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Comments: i thought this route was just kind of ok. the first 1/3 is easy scrambling. the crux is pulling on overhanging loose blocks, with pro in the aforementioned blocks, directly above a ledge. you definitely do not want things to go bad here, or they would go really bad. i definitely would not recommend this to somebody who doesn't have some desert climbing experience.

the section above this is fun off fist and OW, but kind of short.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Free Form Wall : Freeform (5.12a)
By: slim When: Nov 18, 2013

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Comments: A Shelf classic, and for good reason. This route has it all - funky cobble geodes, sweet pockets, techy face, steep headwall. Way fun.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Slot Machine (5.11)
By: slim When: Nov 18, 2013

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Comments: great route. bloom's guide says the grade is extremely hand sized dependent, but i don't really agree. it has everything from tight fingers to biggish hands - everybody will have a good size, and everybody will have a bad size.

really small gear (black, blue alien) to get to the bolt, a few each from tight fingers to off fingers, and fairly heavy on #1 and #2 camalots up at the top.

super fun!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Fin Wall : Flight Time (5.12-) : Photo
By: slim When: Nov 14, 2013

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Comments: great photo!


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Hot Beach (5.12b)
By: slim When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: One of the all time classic 12a's at Shelf, and for good reason. No brutal show stopper moves on it but a lot of climbing at a fairly difficult grade. Top that off with a heartbreaking redpoint crux at the top, and you get one hell of a route.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Free Form Wall : Onomatopoeia (5.12a)
By: slim When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: Burly start, somewhat remniscent of Little Mecca, but it takes a bit longer to get to any sort of hold you can really shake out on. The upper section is really good also with some nice crisp pockets.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : The Smoking Pickle (5.12a)
By: slim When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: Excellent route, slightly easier than Spontaneous Combustion (both the lower crux climbing as well as the slab climbing above). I can't believe this route wasn't put up until 2004. Totally blows my mind that such an awesome line hid in plain view for nearly 20 years.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : North Six Shooter Peak : Liquid Sky (5.11+) : Photo
By: slim When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: i'm just offering the goodies! you're gonna have to talk GabeO into another trip up there, but i bet that should be easy to do.... :)


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Sinbad Wall : Sinbad Was a Dog (5.11)
By: slim When: Nov 5, 2013

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Comments: cool, thanks guys. i'll get on it next time i am in that neck of the woods.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : North Six Shooter Peak : Liquid Sky (5.11+) : Photo
By: slim When: Nov 4, 2013

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Comments: i think a plan to re-sender should be in order. my office and bag of goodies are only a short mall shuttle away :)


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Sinbad Wall : Sinbad Was a Dog (5.11)
By: slim When: Nov 4, 2013

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Comments: hey dave, how is that blocky section and that one flake/block that is almost midway up? i have been wanting to check this one out, thanks for posting it!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Vasodilator (5.13a)
By: slim When: Nov 1, 2013

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Comments: One of the key things for an epoxy/glue job is that the surfaces need to be clean. I think it would be pretty tough to get inside the crack and get it well cleaned(?).


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : Little Mecca (5.12a/b)
By: slim When: Oct 31, 2013

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Comments: Superb route. Fun boulder problem at the start can be done a bunch of ways, just have to figure out the best way for the individual. The climbing above that is kind of tough - tricky feet. Top section is pretty intense. This would be a proud onsight, as you can't really see what's coming at you during some of the harder climbing.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Original Meat Wall : Sinestra (5.11) : Photo
By: slim When: Oct 29, 2013

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Comments: that's a really good photo - really shows how the little arete tries to shove you in the chest on the way over!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : Cliffs of Insanity : Psycho Tectonics (5.12a) : Photo
By: slim When: Oct 23, 2013

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Comments: you forgot the croakies. sunglasses gotta dangle from something!


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