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tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.


Member Since: Dec 1, 2004
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
Contact slim


Point Rank: # 295
Total Points: 1,858
Last Year: 327
Last 30 Days: 9
2 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has slim been climbing?










Contributions


All 8151 | Routes 63 | Areas 5 | Photos 17 | Page Improvments | Comments 1069 | Posts 2404 | Stars 2343 | Ratings 2250
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Bioturbation Wall : Alienation (5.10)
By: slim When: Nov 18, 2013

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Comments: i thought this route was just kind of ok. the first 1/3 is easy scrambling. the crux is pulling on overhanging loose blocks, with pro in the aforementioned blocks, directly above a ledge. you definitely do not want things to go bad here, or they would go really bad. i definitely would not recommend this to somebody who doesn't have some desert climbing experience.

the section above this is fun off fist and OW, but kind of short.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Free Form Wall : Freeform (5.12a)
By: slim When: Nov 18, 2013

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Comments: A Shelf classic, and for good reason. This route has it all - funky cobble geodes, sweet pockets, techy face, steep headwall. Way fun.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Slot Machine (5.11)
By: slim When: Nov 18, 2013

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Comments: great route. bloom's guide says the grade is extremely hand sized dependent, but i don't really agree. it has everything from tight fingers to biggish hands - everybody will have a good size, and everybody will have a bad size.

really small gear (black, blue alien) to get to the bolt, a few each from tight fingers to off fingers, and fairly heavy on #1 and #2 camalots up at the top.

super fun!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Fin Wall : Flight Time (5.12-) : Photo
By: slim When: Nov 14, 2013

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Comments: great photo!


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Hot Beach (5.12b)
By: slim When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: One of the all time classic 12a's at Shelf, and for good reason. No brutal show stopper moves on it but a lot of climbing at a fairly difficult grade. Top that off with a heartbreaking redpoint crux at the top, and you get one hell of a route.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Free Form Wall : Onomatopoeia (5.12a)
By: slim When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: Burly start, somewhat remniscent of Little Mecca, but it takes a bit longer to get to any sort of hold you can really shake out on. The upper section is really good also with some nice crisp pockets.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : The Smoking Pickle (5.12a)
By: slim When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: Excellent route, slightly easier than Spontaneous Combustion (both the lower crux climbing as well as the slab climbing above). I can't believe this route wasn't put up until 2004. Totally blows my mind that such an awesome line hid in plain view for nearly 20 years.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : North Six Shooter Peak : Liquid Sky (5.11+) : Photo
By: slim When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: i'm just offering the goodies! you're gonna have to talk GabeO into another trip up there, but i bet that should be easy to do.... :)


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Sinbad Wall : Sinbad Was a Dog (5.11)
By: slim When: Nov 5, 2013

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Comments: cool, thanks guys. i'll get on it next time i am in that neck of the woods.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : North Six Shooter Peak : Liquid Sky (5.11+) : Photo
By: slim When: Nov 4, 2013

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Comments: i think a plan to re-sender should be in order. my office and bag of goodies are only a short mall shuttle away :)


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Sinbad Wall : Sinbad Was a Dog (5.11)
By: slim When: Nov 4, 2013

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Comments: hey dave, how is that blocky section and that one flake/block that is almost midway up? i have been wanting to check this one out, thanks for posting it!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Vasodilator (5.13a)
By: slim When: Nov 1, 2013

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Comments: One of the key things for an epoxy/glue job is that the surfaces need to be clean. I think it would be pretty tough to get inside the crack and get it well cleaned(?).


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : Little Mecca (5.12a/b)
By: slim When: Oct 31, 2013

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Comments: Superb route. Fun boulder problem at the start can be done a bunch of ways, just have to figure out the best way for the individual. The climbing above that is kind of tough - tricky feet. Top section is pretty intense. This would be a proud onsight, as you can't really see what's coming at you during some of the harder climbing.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Original Meat Wall : Sinestra (5.11) : Photo
By: slim When: Oct 29, 2013

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Comments: that's a really good photo - really shows how the little arete tries to shove you in the chest on the way over!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : Cliffs of Insanity : Psycho Tectonics (5.12a) : Photo
By: slim When: Oct 23, 2013

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Comments: you forgot the croakies. sunglasses gotta dangle from something!


Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Helen's Dome
By: slim When: Oct 23, 2013

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Comments: It sounds like you missed the right turn just before you get to the lake.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Legend on the Fall (5.12a/b)
By: slim When: Oct 21, 2013

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Comments: The "just believe" beta is pretty accurate for the lower crux. My partner gave me super key beta here - I wasn't thinking in that direction, and I would have never figured it out. Even then, it is a hard move for sure. If you are short, it will be a long reach. If you are tall, the foot positions are kind of awkward. It would be nice to set this as a problem in your garage so you could do it a few times and get it smoothed out.

I think the top runout borders on inappropriate for a rap bolt... more >>


Location: General Climbing : can u spot the safety issue... : Post : Photo
By: slim When: Oct 11, 2013

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Comments: assuming the chick weighed approximately 10,000 lbs i guess.....


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Petrified Hornet Wall : Kiefer Ari (5.11-)
By: slim When: Oct 11, 2013

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Comments: yeah, if i remember correctly you have to fight through some willow like bush thing to get over there. seemed like a perfect place to run into a rattlesnake....


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Sacred Cow Wall : Steve Carruthers Memorial (5.11)
By: slim When: Oct 11, 2013

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Comments: this is definitely one of the 5 star mega routes of the desert, and a fitting tribute to a desert legend.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Red Wall : No Turning Back (5.12c)
By: slim When: Oct 9, 2013

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Comments: Hey J, I want to do that one pretty bad but might not get around to it this season. Hope you did some extra cleaning for me!


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Red Wall : Dressed to Drill (5.12b)
By: slim When: Oct 9, 2013

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Comments: I generally hesitate to award such a short route with 4 stars, but the climbing on this thing is exceptional. There are a couple minor blemishes, the main one being a spooky flake/ledge on the lower section; however, the superb climbing and perfect bolt locations make this a great route. This would be a really good intro to 12b at Devil's Head. Neat belay ledge, nice view, really cool rock. Add this one to your list!


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Red Wall : Cornered Rats (5.11b)
By: slim When: Oct 9, 2013

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Comments: Stellar route. The flakes at the start are way spooky, so we climbed a bit to the left. Probably similar difficulty, but you have a trade-off of solid rock for worse fall potential. Rich Magill's comment about the upper corner having sort of an impending doom feel to it is well noted. The rock and the climbing are kind of like a strange mix of a desert corner, Eldo corner, and Devil's Head features. Really cool, I highly recommend it.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Red Wall : The Imposed (5.11c)
By: slim When: Oct 9, 2013

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Comments: Really fun route and quite a bit harder than it looks. My crack climbing definitely felt rusty on this one.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Crimpfest Wall : Poser Free Zone (5.12a)
By: slim When: Oct 9, 2013

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Comments: This is a great route and really caters to more of a bouldering style of climber. 3 hard sections with 100% rest before the hard climbing. It took me a long time to figure out the 3rd crux, just above the midway anchor. It seems impossible until you do it, and then you still kind of don't know how you did it. You will want a really close belay here - there is a ledge with a flake below you, and the climbing is very insecure. Above this the climbing is fairly easy, but you feel like you are ... more >>


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