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Location: CA : Central Coast
By: Slater When: Oct 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: NEW NORTHERN CALIFORNIA GUIDEBOOK
From the Kern River up to the Oregon border (and two beyond!), over 100 crags, over 2,000 routes, perfect for a Road Trip! Tons of out of print crags, and hard to find beta!
"California Road Trip A Climber's Guide to Northern California"
Contact author at
tomslaterphotography@yahoo.com for a copy
or visit
slatervision.com to see a TABLE OF CONTENTS
or go to
maximuspress.com to purchase or clued in climbing stores near you!
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Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak
By: Slater When: Jul 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Letter from John Knight...
"I met w/John Dalbey yesterday and we had a very productive dialogue out at Shadow (Ken Klis and Dave Delkeskamp were there as well). I see how my actions have adversely impacted people. Believe me; I'm as interested as anyone in addressing the concerns that have been raised.
Recently, this has resulted in a "bolt war"? and someone has chopped the Mouse Maze bolts and smashed the Mouse Maze anchor bolts (which were shared w/Ken's route to the right of MM).... more >>
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Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Cerro Romauldo : Rainbow Wall : Rainbow Ballet (5.7+ R)
By: Slater When: Jul 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is actually 2 pitches. Continue up after first anchor past 3 more bolts to top. Serious lead for second pitch.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Shadow Rock : Lycra (5.10a)
By: Slater When: Jul 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route deserves more attention then it gets. One of the best. Much more sequential than most other routes. Reminds me of the bottom section of Lama. Excellent.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Shadow Rock : Shadow (5.7 R)
By: Slater When: Jul 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rich, well said.
To answer and clarify a few things -
"The early guide books rated this climb 5.8" Nope. Go look at one.
Gulyash's guide rated it 5.7
My '94/'95 and '97 guidebooks rated it 5.7
Tucker/Steele rated it 5.8 (they got their info from Gulyash, go figure)
and finally my '06 guide rated it 5.8
To quote Dwight Kroll from an essay he wrote for me in '95-
"...and not until we got to Yosemite did we realize that the Shadow was one of the harder 5.7s around." Ha ha, probably because it... more >>
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Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Cracked Wall
By: Slater When: Jul 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was just told by Ken Klis, who heard it from Blazer (who climbs at Cracked Wall a lot!) that there has been tons of chipping going on at Cracked Wall recently. Does anyone know anything about it? He said it was mainly at the crux of the routes. This totally sucks!!!!
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Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Shadow Rock : Desperado (5.9)
By: Slater When: Jun 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, it's true, my friend was hiking there with his wife and they saw this guy with sheers cutting away. And this kind of spray painting AFTER isn't the first time. It's all part of the maintenance role this guy has assumed. He treats it like it is his backyard and playground, and forgets that others use it too and also have opinions and preferences as well but don't act on them. I'd love it if Shadow was bolted differently, but it isn't and it is what it is. It gives this route character, and w... more >>
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : The Fortress : Right Side Gully : ... : Photo
By: Slater When: May 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: That whole side of the climb visible in photo (belayer's left) to the left of the crack is way loose. Warning! I'm guessing this climb will change drastically in time.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : The Fortress : Right Side Gully : Free to Choose (5.8+)
By: Slater When: May 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I lead the first pitch and thought it was contrived. I didn't like being 50' off the ground on the right side, but 3' off the ground on the left side, but I was keeping an open mind. Then my nephew lead the 2nd pitch. 5.9 for sure. Was starting to like it but then ran into the last 30' of the route. The whole right side of the route is ready to fall off on the top part. It shuddered, shook, vibrated, made that hollow sound, and then the belay was set on top of a pile of loose blocks. I like adve... more >>
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Potrero John : Should I Go (aka El Potrero... (5.10b/c)
By: Slater When: May 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: How many bolts on Should I Stay?
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Location: CA : Sierra Foothills : 5N06 of Sonora : Photo
By: Slater When: Feb 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Killer pic as usual.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : P-Wall : Route Canal (5.10b/c R)
By: Slater When: Dec 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: John Knight stated he replaced a 1/4" bolt on this route.
I did the FA of this route and we didn't place any 1/4" bolts on the FA in 1993, so I'm not sure what bolt he replaced, but it wasn't on Route Canal.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Cabrillo Peak : Burial Grounds : ... : Photo
By: Slater When: Jul 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey, I know that dude! Way to pull FA!
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Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Cabrillo Peak : Burial Grounds : ... : Photo
By: Slater When: Jul 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dude, don't fall.... it's a looong way down.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Shadow Rock : Shadow (5.7 R)
By: Slater When: Sep 22, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: To quote Royal Robbins about Shadow...
"That's no 5.7."
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Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : New Guidebook
By: Slater When: Jul 3, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Most people have no clue as to what it takes to put together a guidebook. This book went from start to finish in a year and a half. I don't know of any others that have ever gone faster (unless they are folded and stapled and done at Kinkos, which this one wasn't!).
I was reminded once again that there are a lot of people involved in the process. I was done writing it last June. It was designed and done by January. The publisher then had to acquire funds to pay for thousands of books, deal with... more >>
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Big Sur : Slate's Spire
By: Slater When: May 24, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: It is 9 miles past Ragged Point.
The rock is solid and featured.
A classic!
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Big Sur : Slate's Spire : Regular Route (5.5 R)
By: Slater When: May 22, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Igloo thermos was the origianl summit register. There is a new one (5-06). More enviro-friendly.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : New Guidebook
By: Slater When: Apr 25, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is a printing glitch, they're working on fixing it, hopefully the book will be out soon, probably May. Thanks for being patient.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Access Issue at Cerro Romua...
By: Slater When: Mar 23, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The National Guard leases this land from the State of California.
Anyone know why a private party would have to pay for an environmental study?
Wouldn't that burden fall upon the land owner like in all other cases where development of a property is halted due to environmental issues?
Any experts out there...?
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Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Summit Blocks - East (Main) : ... : Photo
By: Slater When: Mar 4, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is this the top of across the universe?
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Location: CA : Sierra Foothills : Tollhouse Rock : Tollhouse Rock : Tollhouse Traverse (5.5)
By: Slater When: Feb 15, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: An awesome route, with two fun options to finish with: A Nutcracker-style mantel, or a classic book. Both finish at the same anchors.
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Location: CA : High Sierra : Mt. Whitney : East Face (5.6)
By: Slater When: Feb 15, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did this route with Doug Englekirk in October of 2005. We did the Mountaineer's approach (not too bad). Nice sunny day. When we started my thermo said 57 degrees. The Washboard was covered in snow but we made it by OK. Some of the other pitches were iced up in the cracks. By the time we reached the last pitch my thermo read 34 degrees. Spidrift was pelting me in the face and my fingers were completely numb. With windchill (30+ mph winds) it was way into the 20's. We topped out to find the summ... more >>
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Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : P-Wall : Hanging Teeth (5.8)
By: Slater When: Feb 13, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: RE: Route Canal - When I put the first bolt in, it was the only bolt below the roof on the route. There is a pedestal start for Hanging Teeth (where the other two bolts are), but the bolts serve more as an anchor than as protection. The picture makes them look spread out and like the lower section is well protected. IT IS NOT. You get a bolt about 20' off the deck from the tree (where the FA started) and you can get some marginal gear in two more places below the roof, but that is it. My friend ... more >>
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Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : P-Wall : Indecent Exposure (5.7)
By: Slater When: Feb 13, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The ancient Gulyash guide shows three bolts total on page 13, but then four bolts total on page 14. It also says to carry nuts (tiny to 2.5"). The old Tucker/Steele guide shows three bolts and then the bolt on Out of Hangers (four total). You used to be able to get gear in above the first bolt, but the crack that once held gear is now just a rattling block. The moves on the route are actually pretty fun, all the way through, especially the first 25'off the deck. But it is a tad dirty and now the... more >>
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