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Member Since: Mar 18, 2005
Last Visit: Dec 20, 2013
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Point Rank: # 1,420
Total Points: 419
Last Year: 18
Last 30 Days: 0
38 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 155 | Routes 9 | Areas 4 | Photos 43 | Page Improvments | Comments 54 | Posts 23 | Stars 21 | Ratings 1
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument : East Side : Toprope Wall : Sinbad (5.6)
By: Slater When: Sep 22, 2013

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Comments: Not sure what you'd do with 8 quickdraws...
There are four bolts on this route. That info isn't in the guide.
Good climbing, with some loose stuff, which is pretty par for the course at Pinns unless it has been a trade route for years, and even then...

Good warm up route. Best approached from the short end of Teaching Rock. Swing around to the backside and go downhill, walk between the big flat spire/rock - chimney up to ledge and move right to daylight and first bolt. Anchor on top are way ba... more >>


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Malibu Creek State Park : Toddler Terrace
By: Slater When: Sep 20, 2013

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Comments: For what it is worth... my Southern California Rock Climbing guidebook has 2 routes listed in it on page 207: Scratchy Beard 5.8 and Slip N Slide 5.8. Apparently these routes were put up violating some basic common sense practices and were removed. Please respect the wishes of the locals and don't take it upon yourself to re-establish these routes. I in no way intended to legitimize these routes, but was simply recording what I saw and climbed. Locals trump guidebooks. Climb on, Tom


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Malibu Creek State Park
By: Slater When: Sep 20, 2013

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Comments: For what it is worth... my Southern California Rock Climbing guidebook has 2 routes listed in it on page 207: Scratchy Beard 5.8 and Slip N Slide 5.8. Apparently these routes were put up violating some basic common sense practices and were removed. Please respect the wishes of the locals and don't take it upon yourself to re-establish these routes. I in no way intended to legitimize these routes, but was simply recording what I saw and climbed. Locals trump guidebooks. Climb on, Tom


Location: CA : San Diego County : Poway Crags : Poway Crags Proper
By: Slater When: Jan 23, 2013

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Comments: With regards to Sport Wall...

This site shows Ambergris as second line from right, AND Velociraptor as second line from right. I think Velociraptor goes up and LEFT. Ambergris goes up and RIGHT with same start but different anchors. If that is correct, it should be changed on here. Anyone familiar with these two routes?

Also, I saw 3 bolts on left side of that block sticking out on the right side of the wall. I think that is Sport Me?? a newish route. Then to the right is Spiral Stigmatic?

... more >>


Location: CA : San Diego County : Poway Crags : Poway Crags Proper : Sport Wall : Ambergris (5.10d)
By: Slater When: Jan 23, 2013

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Comments: This site shows Ambergris as second line from right, AND Velociraptor as second line from right. I think Velociraptor goes up and LEFT. Ambergris goes up and RIGHT with same start but different anchors. If that is correct, it should be changed on here. Anyone familiar with these two routes?

Also, I saw 3 bolts on right side of that block sticking out on the right side of the wall. I think that is Sport Me?? a newish route. Then to the right is Spiral Stigmatic.

We need some FA g... more >>


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Malibu Creek State Park : Mt. Gorgeous : Photo
By: Slater When: Jan 14, 2013

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Comments: Great shot. What route?


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Big Rock Area
By: Slater When: Jan 14, 2013

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Comments: Is the Helios Boulder the "sport boulder" ?

or if it isn't, why isn't it listed? Access issue??

and if it is, that might be a good AKA to add, plus the other routes.


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : P-Wall : Impacted Stool Crack (5.9)
By: Slater When: Mar 1, 2011

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Comments: Richard, nobody said you did it.

Whoever is needs to stop please.
Bishop Peak has a lot of tradition and history.
It isn't anyone's place to rewrite it and bring these routes down to their level. They are what they are. If you don't like it, top rope them... or climb somewhere else.


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : P-Wall : Impacted Stool Crack (5.9)
By: Slater When: Feb 25, 2011

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Comments: "making the direct finish a more sane lead"

That seems to miss the point. Did the FA party (Richard Harrison) do this? Or do we all get to now add bolts wherever we want to?
Many routes on Bishop are not "sane" but why does that give someone the right to add bolts? What if someone thinks there should be 4 bolts? or only 2? Where does it stop and who gets to decide? These are rhetorical questions obviously.

Whoever is adding bolts, please stop. You're being immature.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Sespe Gorge (Black Wall) : Photo
By: Slater When: Apr 13, 2010

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Comments: Better nip this in the bud me thinks... or else they'll be sprouting up like lichen. Gotta take care of your own crag Matt, go pull 'em.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Malibu Creek State Park
By: Slater When: Apr 11, 2010

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Comments: NEW ROUTES near Guerrilla Drilla-

Just left of The Third Degree (shares start?) is a 5.10+/.11a looking route to new anchors. Anyone have any info? Name?

ALSO - With Guerrilla Drilla at your back, by the tree there is a 5.6 4 bolt route on the right of this rock, and down below (steep start) there is a 9 bolt 5.9+ route that goes up to the roof by the tree and then up the arete (just left of the new 5.6). Can anyone pass on some info? Names? Confirm ratings?

ALSO on right side of Mt. Gorgeou... more >>


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Malibu Creek State Park : Stumbling Blocks
By: Slater When: Apr 11, 2010

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Comments: NEW ROUTES near Guerrilla Drilla-
Just left of The Third Degree (shares start?) is a 5.10+/.11a looking route to new anchors. Anyone have any info? Name?

ALSO - With Guerrilla Drilla at you back, by the tree there is a 5.6 4 bolt route on the right of this rock, and down below (steep start) there is a 9 bolt 5.9+ route that goes up to the roof by the tree and then up the arete (just left of the new 5.6). Can anyone pass on some info? Names? Confirm ratings?

ALSO on right side of Mt. Gorgeous ... more >>


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Angeles National Forest : Horse Flats : Photo
By: Slater When: Feb 4, 2010

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Comments: lol
classic pic and comments.
You made my day.


Location: CA : Central Coast
By: Slater When: Oct 7, 2009

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Comments: NEW NORTHERN CALIFORNIA GUIDEBOOK

From the Kern River up to the Oregon border (and two beyond!), over 100 crags, over 2,000 routes, perfect for a Road Trip! Tons of out of print crags, and hard to find beta!

"California Road Trip A Climber's Guide to Northern California"

Contact author at

tomslaterphotography@yahoo.com for a copy - $39.95

or visit
slatervision.com to see a TABLE OF CONTENTS

or go to
maximuspress.com to purchase or clued in climbing stores near you!


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak
By: Slater When: Jul 27, 2009

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Comments: Letter from John Knight...

"I met w/John Dalbey yesterday and we had a very productive dialogue out at Shadow (Ken Klis and Dave Delkeskamp were there as well). I see how my actions have adversely impacted people. Believe me; I'm as interested as anyone in addressing the concerns that have been raised.


Recently, this has resulted in a "bolt war"? and someone has chopped the Mouse Maze bolts and smashed the Mouse Maze anchor bolts (which were shared w/Ken's route to the right of MM).... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Cerro Romauldo : Rainbow Wall : Rainbow Ballet (5.7+ R)
By: Slater When: Jul 20, 2009

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Comments: This route is actually 2 pitches. Continue up after first anchor past 3 more bolts to top. Serious lead for second pitch.


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Shadow Rock : Lycra (5.10a)
By: Slater When: Jul 19, 2009

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Comments: This route deserves more attention then it gets. One of the best. Much more sequential than most other routes. Reminds me of the bottom section of Lama. Excellent.


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Shadow Rock : Shadow (5.7 R)
By: Slater When: Jul 17, 2009

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Comments: Rich, well said.

To answer and clarify a few things -

"The early guide books rated this climb 5.8" Nope. Go look at one.

Gulyash's guide rated it 5.7
My '94/'95 and '97 guidebooks rated it 5.7
Tucker/Steele rated it 5.8 (they got their info from Gulyash, go figure)
and finally my '06 guide rated it 5.8

To quote Dwight Kroll from an essay he wrote for me in '95-
"...and not until we got to Yosemite did we realize that the Shadow was one of the harder 5.7s around." Ha ha, probably because it... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Cracked Wall
By: Slater When: Jul 10, 2009

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Comments: I was just told by Ken Klis, who heard it from Blazer (who climbs at Cracked Wall a lot!) that there has been tons of chipping going on at Cracked Wall recently. Does anyone know anything about it? He said it was mainly at the crux of the routes. This totally sucks!!!!


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Shadow Rock : Desperado (5.9)
By: Slater When: Jun 29, 2009

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Comments: Yes, it's true, my friend was hiking there with his wife and they saw this guy with sheers cutting away. And this kind of spray painting AFTER isn't the first time. It's all part of the maintenance role this guy has assumed. He treats it like it is his backyard and playground, and forgets that others use it too and also have opinions and preferences as well but don't act on them. I'd love it if Shadow was bolted differently, but it isn't and it is what it is. It gives this route character, and w... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : The Fortress : Right Side Gully : ... : Photo
By: Slater When: May 26, 2009

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Comments: That whole side of the climb visible in photo (belayer's left) to the left of the crack is way loose. Warning! I'm guessing this climb will change drastically in time.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : The Fortress : Right Side Gully : Free to Choose (5.8+)
By: Slater When: May 26, 2009

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Comments: I lead the first pitch and thought it was contrived. I didn't like being 50' off the ground on the right side, but 3' off the ground on the left side, but I was keeping an open mind. Then my nephew lead the 2nd pitch. 5.9 for sure. Was starting to like it but then ran into the last 30' of the route. The whole right side of the route is ready to fall off on the top part. It shuddered, shook, vibrated, made that hollow sound, and then the belay was set on top of a pile of loose blocks. I like adve... more >>


Location: CA : Central Sierra : Sonora Pass (Hwy 108) : 5N06 of Sonora (2nd Quarry) : Photo
By: Slater When: Feb 3, 2009

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Comments: Killer pic as usual.


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : P-Wall : Route Canal (5.10b/c R)
By: Slater When: Dec 20, 2008

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Comments: John Knight stated he replaced a 1/4" bolt on this route.
I did the FA of this route and we didn't place any 1/4" bolts on the FA in 1993, so I'm not sure what bolt he replaced, but it wasn't on Route Canal.


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Cabrillo Peak : Burial Grounds : ... : Photo
By: Slater When: Jul 20, 2008

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Comments: Hey, I know that dude! Way to pull FA!


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