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Member Since: Mar 24, 2007
Last Visit: Jan 27, 2013
Contact Skyeler Congdon


Point Rank: # 410
Total Points: 1,356
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
23 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



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Contributions


All (756) | Routes (72) | Areas (6) | Photos (97) | Comments (61) | Posts (96) | Stars (371) | Ratings (53)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Sparks Wall : Jupiter Crack (5.11)
By: Skyeler Congdon When: Sep 21, 2012

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Comments: After 10 years of climbing, I consider this to be possibly the greatest single pitch of rock climbing I've ever done.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Egg Drop Soup (5.12)
By: Skyeler Congdon When: Dec 9, 2011

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Comments: Got a cam in the mail, yesterday!! I'd like to say an enormous THANK YOU to this incredible community of climbers!!!

Peter, Kayla, and Jane- I owe my life to you guys! Thank you for flawlessly and fearlessly using your WFR skills to keep my spine immobilzed, even while I became a DIC head!

Thank you to the SAR team from Monticello who carried my heavy ass down on a backboard.

Thank you to the nurses and doc's who gave me excellent care, and much needed painkillers;)

Thank you t... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Egg Drop Soup (5.12)
By: Skyeler Congdon When: Oct 31, 2011

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Comments: I fell at the crux yesterday and my cam ripped off a 6'x2'x1' chunk of rock, which hit me in the face. I was heli-evac'ed to Grand Junction with possible head and chest trauma (I'm doing okay, though).

My friends cleaned most of the pitch as I was being carried down, but left two cams in the crack (a .75 and .5 camalot, I believe). If you climb this route soon, please help me get those cams back to my friends. This route is really cool, but apparently has difficult-to-discern loose rock in th... more >>


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : Crypto Wall
By: Skyeler Congdon When: May 13, 2011

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Comments: This cliff is on private property, though I'm not sure who exactly owns it. It might be best to leave these routes alone until climbing access is determined.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : South Rim Routes : Last Payment (5.11)
By: Skyeler Congdon When: May 8, 2011

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Comments: Stellar climbing. We climbed a crack system left of the chimney start as described in the guidebook and this was the only mediocre section of climbing. From pitch two on, the rock is quality granite and the climbing is sustained at the grade.

The 5.8 face climbing variation to the wide crux is great but dangerous, comparable in difficulty and consequence to the first pitch of Journey Home- maybe a little more mellow.

Consider linking this route with Alimony and even Steppin' Out. We did Alimo... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Jabba Buttress : I Need a Batholith (5.10)
By: Skyeler Congdon When: Apr 24, 2011

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Comments: Tim, you're right, LOOKING at the holds in the runouts definitely blew the on-SIGHT!! Actually, technically it was a "brownpoint", since I pooped my pants a little bit above the crux...I think Sam managed a "clean" ascent...haha.

And no, this climb is not 4 stars. I'm guilty of over-hyping my routes (you would really like The Icarus Line...). You busted me. But when compared to the other 5.10 sport routes, I think 3 stars is legit. Just my opinion as a biased rap-bolter.

And about the bolts: a... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Jabba Buttress : I Need a Batholith (5.10)
By: Skyeler Congdon When: Apr 22, 2011

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Comments: The retrobolting is complete! The route now has a bolt protecting the start and the finish. The spacing of the bolts still adds a little excitement, but it is no longer sketch. As I stated in the description, the third bolt is scary looking, but so far no one who has led the route commenting on it being too far.

Tim, it's great hearing how the routes I mentioned were developed. I can't believe Betty was done ground up! That is fucking burly.

Betty was one of the first routes at East ... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Jabba Buttress : I Need a Batholith (5.10)
By: Skyeler Congdon When: Apr 16, 2011

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Comments: You make good points, Tim, and I should put it out there that I'm not opposed to this route getting more bolts (but secretly think it would be lame ;) haha.

Sam and I ran up there at 1pm in mid-December hoping to put the route up before sunset. We weren't trying to put up a 'death route,' but also we didn't have much time since we drilled by hand. We spent a lot of time discussing where to put bolts to produce the bare minimum of safety. By the time the third bolt was finished, the su... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Jabba Buttress : I Need a Batholith (5.10)
By: Skyeler Congdon When: Apr 14, 2011

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Comments: Thanks for the comment and insights, Tim. After getting on it again for the second time, I agree that a bolt above and below the three already drilled would be nice, it would definitely make the route more accessible.

Sam and I had hoped to drill the bolts on lead, but it would have been so sketchy there would've been no point in clipping anything! But I agree that drilling from lead is badass.

Tim, do you remember what you told me when you walked up during the FA of Martyr's Crown? I suggeste... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Jabba Buttress : I Need a Batholith (5.10)
By: Skyeler Congdon When: Apr 12, 2011

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Comments: This route is still waiting for a second ascent! Plus, it has yet to see a pure, ground up ascent.

I'd really like to hear what the Durangatangs think of this route. I thought it was great fun but definitely a heady lead.

I'm considering adding a bolt (or two) to this line, despite the ethical leanings of some of you. But something tells me the peanut gallery that threw a fit over the Black Arete won't mind as much if this route got retrobolted. It's pretty easy to be "bold" at the 5.8 grade... more >>


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Other areas
By: Skyeler Congdon When: Mar 12, 2011

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Comments: Hey Admins,

At what point would it be better to start adding a little more clarity to the "other areas" section? As someone who has routinely gotten the names/locations of towers confused, I would really appreciate it. At the very least, there could be a section for No Thoroughfare Canyon. I would add it, but I have gotten some flak for not knowing what I'm talking about in CNM.

Skyeler


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : Marmot Rocks
By: Skyeler Congdon When: Jan 7, 2011

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Comments: Pick up a small, free guide for the boulders at the Visitor's Center. This is a super fun spot with plenty of great cracks from fingers to OW- a good place to learn. But there's also several hard face problems in the V4-7 range.

It would be cool to hear any "back in the day" stories about this spot. Anyone know some history behind the Marmot Rocks?


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Jabba Buttress : Three Open Books (5.9)
By: Skyeler Congdon When: Dec 10, 2010

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Comments: The pins, in my opinion, are unnecessary (unless taking the direct start- that would be proud without the first pin). The traverse in from the right is hard off the deck but immediately eases. With modern gear this route is no worse than most other trad lines here. I found a small cam (000 TCU-ish) and nut placement below the second pin and other nut immediately after. With very modern gear, i.e. a hybrid Alien, blue-black or blue-yellow I'm guessing, you'd be golden.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : Mother's Buttress : ... : Doppelgänger (5.11)
By: Skyeler Congdon When: Dec 6, 2010

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Comments: Nice work, guys!! This line looks awesome! Can't wait to go check it out.


Location: CO : Durango : Junction Creek : Ciao Bella! : Central Portion : Julia's Aręte (5.10d)
By: Skyeler Congdon When: Dec 5, 2010

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Comments: I can certainly empathize with the drive towards FAs. It's clear we can both agree it is far more rewarding than even an at-our-limit redpoint. There's so little adventure nowadays with our beta-choked climbing culture that places more value in performance and numbers than in experience. I know the towers you are referring to and was equally disappointed when the article came out. That stretch from Ruby Ranch to Mineral Bottom could have a lifetime of routes for climbers of our ilk. Now that the... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : Junction Creek : Ciao Bella! : Central Portion : Julia's Aręte (5.10d)
By: Skyeler Congdon When: Dec 2, 2010

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Comments: Nice response, Matthias. Well, I suppose I deserve to be called out since I called you a 'chucklehead'. Allow me to retort:

1) You question my climbing abilities as a possible ulterior motive to my criticism. Perhaps you should do a search of my first ascents added to mp.com. Better yet, go repeat "Martyr's Crown", and THEN tell me how I handle runouts. Or go bag the third ascent of "The Icarus Line" in the style of my FA. Or maybe you'd like to repeat a R/X highball I put up like "Hesitation."... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : Junction Creek : Ciao Bella! : Central Portion : Julia's Aręte (5.10d)
By: Skyeler Congdon When: Dec 1, 2010

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Comments: Mathias, no one is going to climb ANY of this choss but you. Hell, I'd rather see East A get retrobolted if it prevents more of Durango's backcountry from getting trampled by drill-wielding chuckleheads.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Byrd's : Freebase (5.11d)
By: Skyeler Congdon When: Nov 5, 2010

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Comments: I've looked for the start of this climb more than once. Anyone have any better beta? Is the 11d face unprotected? 'Cause I haven't found any bolts, but I could be retarded. The second pitch looks amazing. Thanks.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Byrd's : No Justice for Rodney (5.12a)
By: Skyeler Congdon When: Nov 5, 2010

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Comments: Highly recommended. The final traverse over the void is sustained, airy, and excellent.

There are three cruxes IMO. Not sure where the #13 would go in the first, I think the bolts alone are adequate. For the middle crux, I would bring along a blue or yellow Alien-size to protect the moves before 3rd (?) bolt. If you are solid at the grade, you might not need it, though. Also, bring some full length runners for a couple clips.

The third crux is the final traverse right. I don't think the... more >>


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : Juniper Wall : Amelie (5.12a)
By: Skyeler Congdon When: Sep 13, 2010

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Comments: Pablo, at 12a this route is graded stiff. You pull Fear of Flying's 11c-ish first crux with a ground fall protected by one piece, then the Amelie variation starts and I couldn't even do the moves on TR, and I've led 12a trad. I think Julian is drawing a comparison as to the style of climbing with this and Flare Thee Well.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Jabba Buttress
By: Skyeler Congdon When: Sep 10, 2010

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Comments: Hey, Tim, I'm headed up there today to climb on the Watch Crystal, and I'll take a closer look at it. I'm definitely down to work it and maybe some other new hard lines. Let me know if you want to collaborate.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Stargazer : Stargazer (5.12b)
By: Skyeler Congdon When: Aug 30, 2010

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Comments: Visiting strong climbers beware:

More than one person has fallen off this route, decked, and broken their back. (Hey, if I had to know this before my redpoint than so do all of you!!)

There is a spot below the crux where you can place two bomber pieces, equalize them, and get a good shake before tackling the crux. I would recommend this. There is good, solid pro throughout the whole climb, but take care to place it well...


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Rough Canyon : Maximum Impaction (5.11)
By: Skyeler Congdon When: Aug 8, 2010

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Comments: The second pitch of this route may be one of GJ's best finger cracks. It's debatable. Definitely a must do for the seasoned Creek-fiend who wants less crowds and more varnish...I remember thinking this route is what Fingers in a Lightsocket must have felt like 20 years ago!

There might be a few more new lines waiting on this wall, but for the most part the Rough Wall leaves first ascentionists disappointed. If you climb this route, check out the "Johnny Ringo Project": it starts in the same spo... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Malidea (5.11-)
By: Skyeler Congdon When: Jul 29, 2010

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Comments: This route is R rated, in my opinion, and should only be attempted by chossophiles who love to trundle more than they love to climb splitters.

Two stars? You made me promise never to even add this route to the database...I suppose time heals all wounds.

If anyone actually wants the second ascent of this, don't try it on a weekend. There's still plenty of loose rock on the second pitch and you'll definitely send shit down to the base area.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : Juniper Wall : Amelie (5.12a)
By: Skyeler Congdon When: Jun 21, 2010

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Comments: Can you really call a 30 ft variation to a pre-existing 120 ft route a NEW route?? Maybe they allow that kind of ego-petting up in Wyoming, but this is Unaweep....

And why is my name on the FA? I had nothing to do with this choss ;)


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