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Moving through the crux lock - now that's micro beta for you, that is.


Member Since: Nov 6, 2003
Last Visit: 6 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 912
Total Points: 700
Last Year: 13
Last 30 Days: 2
166 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Sirius been climbing?










Contributions


All 850 | Routes 13 | Areas 3 | Photos 68 | Page Improvements | Comments 185 | Posts 175 | Stars 393 | Ratings 13
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Lost Brother : Blood & Coin (5.7 A3-)
By: Sirius When: 4 days ago

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Comments: Hmmmm, this looks amazing. Has it seen a second? How much could be free-climbed at 5.11 and under, do you reckon?

Proud FA on the solo, well done. Dig the GoT names as well.

"Chaos is a ladder"


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : Father Time (5.13b PG13) : Photo
By: Sirius When: Sep 14, 2014

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Comments: Can't be easy placing gear on that pitch....!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Cookie Cliff : Butterballs (5.11c) : Photo
By: Sirius When: Jul 29, 2014

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Comments: That is a great shot, of a hard crack.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Lower Cathedral Rock : Beggar's Buttress (5.11a/b) : Photo
By: Sirius When: Apr 14, 2014

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Comments: This is such a killer shot.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Royal Arches Boulder Cracks : Space Invaders (5.12a)
By: Sirius When: Apr 7, 2014

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Comments: ^ Damn!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Reed's Pinnacle Area : Beyond Lunacy (5.11c)
By: Sirius When: Mar 27, 2014

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Comments: Pitch 4: 170 ft 5.10c: Make a few committing moves to the top of a good knob and clip a first bolt. Continue up clipping a few more till holds disappear for a few moves (crux). Friction up and left to an aręte and pass a roof. I traversed the roof from left to right. Continue up easier knobs and do a few more difficult moves till you reach the belay (bolted).

We just went more or less straight up from the second or third bolt, following the bolted line closely, which doesn't bring you ... more >>


Location: International : South America : Chile : Valle Cochamó : Photo
By: Sirius When: Mar 7, 2014

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Comments: What a killer pic.

Had heard that many of Cochamo's cracks were pinched seams - looks like this bolted pitch bears that out...


Location: CA : High Sierra : Temple Crag : Sun Ribbon Arete (5.10a) : Photo
By: Sirius When: Feb 26, 2014

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Comments: Oh God, so true, memory still painfully clear. Hours spent on steep, loose sand with perched blocks all around us... Contact can be a nightmare if you don't know where to thread the needle and you can't see, as was the case for us after this pic.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Disney Point (5.10+) : Photo
By: Sirius When: Feb 21, 2014

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Comments: Black Diamond or GTFO.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Pat and Jack Pinnacle : The Super Slacker Highway (5.10a)
By: Sirius When: Feb 4, 2014

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Comments: Fun climbing to a great summit.

Great line, perhaps overbolted in places. The bolt encountered on the face when moving left after the toothy finger crack (p5?), as an example, sits next to a perfect cam placement.

Feel that .10a might be a sandbag on the mantle before the summit block pitches, but it's not a showstopper.

Quality hardware throughout. At the summit you can see the old anchors, then whisper thanks to the FA'ists for the new rap pieces!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : Triple Direct (5.9 C1-) : Photo
By: Sirius When: Feb 4, 2014

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Comments: Benjamin misses the point.

I agree that the people who leave trash strewn on ledges and summits are not reading the message here, and if they are they may not give a damn. They're lousy enough as people to leave their shit for others to clean up, after all.

But the point: Everyone has a duty to clean up trash they find on route and around the climbing areas they frequent, regardless of who the rotten bastard is that left the trash.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Arch Rock : Leanie Meanie (5.11b)
By: Sirius When: Jan 28, 2014

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Comments: ...rounding the top to the funky anchor on the right wall.

Anchor looked to be new and bomber, maybe upgraded? In any case, no longer funky.

Hard pulls through the crux on this one.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Cookie Cliff : Butterballs (5.11c) : Photo
By: Sirius When: Nov 12, 2013

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Comments: Damnit! Just meant to rate this photo great but clicked on Average in the dropdown by accident. Great shot.


Location: hatman : usual silly photos : Photo
By: Sirius When: Aug 10, 2013

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Comments: Wow, what a line - where is this??!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Church Bowl : Black is Brown (5.9)
By: Sirius When: Apr 23, 2013

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Comments: Climbed this a couple of weeks ago. Had no guidebook and didn't know what it was, so just went straight up following the crack.

Thought it was 5.9+, fun, dirty and a bit flakey above the pin anchor. Never stepped right, must have been tunnel visioning on the crack. Crux was moving through a brief, steep section where the crack vanishes and you have to stem for glory.

Super, super loose up top on the ending ledge.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Reed's Pinnacle Area : Beyond the Fringe (5.10c)
By: Sirius When: Mar 12, 2013

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Comments: It seems as if this pitch may not get repeated often, and as a result there is some lichen and some flexing features to be navigated. Be particularly wary of the thank-god jug about 20 ft off of the belay (the first big feature you get after a bunch of balancey, techy moves on small pro), which flexed a bunch when I grabbed it.

I don't think the pitch deserves an R or even a PG, but protecting the first half is more involved than your standard Yosemite crack climb.

Here's a link to one of the... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Sacherer Cracker (5.10a)
By: Sirius When: Mar 12, 2013

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Comments: To the question above re. the Hollow Flake, my .02:

-I thought the HF had harder pure climbing.
-The HF is rated 5.9, the top of SC is rated 5.8.
-The HF is 70 ft (more?), SC wide less than 2 body lengths.
-The HF is a wicked, frightening head game, the SC wide is not. Contrast pro at your feet (SC) w/ a long arc of rope hanging back to a pendulum point that feels like 20,000 leagues beneath and to the side of you...
-You'll be just fine if you fall out of the SC wide; you won't be ... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Arch Rock : English Breakfast Crack (5.10c PG13)
By: Sirius When: Jan 22, 2013

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Comments: Better save some juice for the top on the onsite attempt. Great, great climb.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Arch Rock : New Dimensions (5.11a)
By: Sirius When: Jan 22, 2013

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Comments: Great line that surpasses the hype.

Last pitch is a mean bastard - I tried jamming it straight on while scumming my left shoulder on the book and hunting for feet out right. This worked not at all for me and I dogged the pitch.

In some ways what you get on New Dimensions is the opposite of the type of climbing you find on, say, Serenity-Sons. While S-S features splitters with clean movement on open faces, New D for me was all about thuggy jamming with physical body positioning in corners, fla... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Phantom Spires : Lower Spire : Photo
By: Sirius When: Nov 1, 2012

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Comments: Damnit, just tried to rate this photo "great" and instead clicked on "average."

Anyway, great photo!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Sentinel Rock : Steck-Salathe (5.10-) : Photo
By: Sirius When: Sep 11, 2012

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Comments: This is actually a harder start to p1. The easier (but wider) start is twenty feet climber's right and up the hill from here.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Lone Pine Peak : Bastille Buttress - Beckey ... (5.10d A0) : Photo
By: Sirius When: Aug 31, 2012

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Comments: A back-country Mr. Natural... Beauty!


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Mount Carmel Tunnel : Headache Area : The Headache (5.10+)
By: Sirius When: Aug 15, 2012

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Comments: A friend just emailed me this link of a free soloist's POV video: youtu.be/Q2HObfWqszI

Don't know who the climber is and have no opinion on the feat, but the video shows every single jam on route in a ten minute send, so don't watch it if you don't want beta!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Higher Cathedral Rock : Braille Book (5.8)
By: Sirius When: Jun 11, 2012

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Comments: Fun and exposed variation goes out right after traversing around the roof that caps the chimney/corner. Up to a ledge on right-slanting corner, then out right to good hands with lots of air under you feet and an amazing view of the complex, tiger-striped face of Higher's east face.

5-star route, no sandbag at 5.8, bring the #4 if in doubt.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Cathedral Spires : Higher Cathedral Spire : Regular Route (Higher Cathe... (5.9)
By: Sirius When: Jun 11, 2012

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Comments: Variations upon variations available on this one. We did:
Standard pitch 1,
Straight up through pins and roof variation on p2 (.10- I thought),
Straight up and right variation on steep flakes for p3 (.10-?),
And wrapped completely around the spire for two airy, moderate, and beautiful traversing pitches,
Finishing with a short steep pitch on good locks to a finishing jug on the east side of the spire. Odyssey!

Rapped down and linked up to Braille Book for a great day.

Don't leave food at t... more >>


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