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Rock wars, Red River Gorge


Member Since: Aug 9, 2010
Last Visit: 9 hours ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 432 | Routes | Areas | Photos 13 | Page Improvements | Comments 9 | Posts 397 | Stars 11 | Ratings 2
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
WC Syncro Elite

WC Syncro Elite

Climbing Gear Discussion : Harness identification : Post

Jun 11, 2015

.4 failure from crystal

.4 failure from crystal

General Climbing : Accident on Manic Crack in ... : Post

Feb 24, 2014

Pre-production x4 swage. Note that this is VERY di...

Pre-production x4 swage. Note that this is VERY different than the production version.

Climbing Gear Reviews : BD X4, ongoing real-world r... : Post

Jul 8, 2013

mastercam vs x4 head width

mastercam vs x4 head width

Climbing Gear Reviews : BD X4, ongoing real-world r... : Post

Jun 13, 2013

c3 vs x4 head width

c3 vs x4 head width

Climbing Gear Reviews : BD X4, ongoing real-world r... : Post

Jun 13, 2013

c4 vs. x4 head widths

c4 vs. x4 head widths

Climbing Gear Reviews : BD X4, ongoing real-world r... : Post

Jun 13, 2013

Ladies, take note.

Ladies, take note.

Climbing Gear Reviews : BD X4, ongoing real-world r... : Post

Jun 13, 2013

Mastercam on top, x4 on bottom.

Mastercam on top, x4 on bottom.

Climbing Gear Reviews : BD X4, ongoing real-world r... : Post

Jun 13, 2013

Stem/thumb loop interface, mastercam vs. x4

Stem/thumb loop interface, mastercam vs. x4

Climbing Gear Reviews : BD X4, ongoing real-world r... : Post

Jun 13, 2013

BD .2 x4 stem/thumb loop interface

BD .2 x4 stem/thumb loop interface

Climbing Gear Reviews : BD X4, ongoing real-world r... : Post

Jun 13, 2013

.3 BD x4, stem/thumb loop interface.

.3 BD x4, stem/thumb loop interface.

Climbing Gear Reviews : BD X4, ongoing real-world r... : Post

Jun 13, 2013

Kinking x4s.

Kinking x4s.

Climbing Gear Reviews : BD X4, ongoing real-world r... : Post

Jun 13, 2013

Rock wars, Red River Gorge

Rock wars, Red River Gorge

shoo : Profile

Sep 8, 2010

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : The Prow Area : The Beast Flake (5.9)
By: shoo When: Jun 3, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: BETA ALERT

If you are doing Recom-Beast, there is a tricky way to make the low (post-flake ripping) transfer back into Recompense after the beast flake super casual and well protected for both the leader and second. Otherwise, it's a poorly protected, awkward, and committing move or two that is certainly the new crux of the route.

After rounding the corner from the beast flake, don't immediately continue down and to the right into the chimney. Instead, climb straight up on a thin juggy flake a... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Glacier Point Apron : The Grack - Center (5.6)
By: shoo When: Apr 22, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I HIGHLY recommend simuling the whole thing if you are your partner are comfortable with it. Doing this as one long pitch is absolutely spectacular, especially for the leader.

Bring a TON of trad draws, a large set of nuts (I used a full wallnut set and the HB offsets), and a standard cam rack up to a #2. Honestly, there is so much fixed mank on this route that you hardly need to place anything if you are comfortable with long runouts on 5.6 granite slab (which you damn well should be if ... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Klahanie Crack (5.7)
By: shoo When: Apr 2, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: As mentioned, thinner than it looks. .75s for most of it, but it'll take a variety of gear.

This might be the most overrated route in Squamish. It's just kinda meh. The feature is cool, but it's just not very much fun. Too low angle to be engaging.


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Barber Wall : Layton's Ascent (5.9)
By: shoo When: Sep 11, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Warning: The big block in the middle of the route is not really attached to anything. It wobbles a bit when you stand on it. I would personally keep clear.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque : Summit Wall : The Open Book (5.7) : Photo
By: shoo When: Apr 19, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Photoshop much? You look like an angel.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : The Motherlode : Ball Scratcher (5.12a) : Photo
By: shoo When: Feb 8, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: I hear this thing is a ridiculously underrated classic. True?


Location: AL : Horse Pens 40 : Turtle Rock Area/ Panty Shi... : Panty Shields (V3+) : Photo
By: shoo When: Nov 8, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: That would be Peggy Tautz donning those serious panty shields.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : The Motherlode : Ball Scratcher (5.12a)
By: shoo When: May 5, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Go straight up the arete. None of this gully business.


Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Frankenstein Ice Climbs : Dropline Area : Dropline (WI5)
By: shoo When: Feb 22, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: DEFINITELY bring medium sized cams (tricams or hexes in similar sizes will work just fine as well) for the p2 belay anchor. You will hate your life without them.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: new cams?Climbing Gear DiscussionshooJul 15, 2015
re: *****Cassin X Dreams, All Mtns, Petzl Quarks, La Sportiva Baturas, WC Tech and Helium Friends FOR SALE / WantedshooJun 22, 2015
re: Updated with pictures-- Tons of gear for sale!FOR SALE / WantedshooJun 20, 2015
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