Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Lower Tier : Frieda's Flake (5.9)
By: Sherri Lewis When: Mar 19, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: P1 is full-value with beautiful rock and many moves at the grade. Tenuous stemming and cryptic roof cruxes definitely hold your attention. We took doubles to #4 and probably could have gotten by with a single #4 as there are smaller cracks on the sides which can be used instead. If you only take a single, save it for the beginning of the crux. I would have loved to get another piece in the middle of the 10-12ft crux section but didn't see another placement opportunity until the ... more >>
|
Location: WA : Index Town Walls : The Country Area : The Country : Cunning Stunt (5.10d)
By: Sherri Lewis When: Aug 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A tcu or alien can protect the moves below the fixed pin, but be aware that the block you are placing it behind is less than solid. If you take up a #.4 Camelot, you can get a bomber piece in a slot around to the right once you move above the pin (before the first bolt).
If you are short, taking the "ramp" variation from the bolt below the crux is worth considering: Step left to gain a small shelf for your hands, smear the feet, then reach straight up to for a small horizontal slot rath... more >>
|
Location: WA : Index Town Walls : Middle Town Walls : Winkie Dinkie Cliff : Gorilla My Dreams (5.10a)
By: Sherri Lewis When: Aug 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: An excellent physical line that will test your endurance and resolve.
A #3 Camelot nicely protects before the 1st bolt. If it's damp off the deck, there's also a place for a tcu lower down. After the 1st bolt, the clips are where you want them but if you bring a #.5-.75 you may find a nice spot for it somewhere between the upper bolts, though it's not necessary.
After you catch your breath, be sure to follow the fixed line and short trail uphill to help yourself to a serving o... more >>
|
Location: WA : Index Town Walls : Lower Town Wall : Main Wall, left side : Sagittarius (5.10a/b)
By: Sherri Lewis When: Jul 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A fellow climber aptly described this amazing route as "a voyage." It takes you through so many big, improbable features that by the time you reach the final stretch of steep handcrack, you'll feel as though it was twice as long. Shorter folk will get an extra thrill on the traverse under the roof, as you may not reach the undercling to use for balance.
Gearwise, I find that placing a #3.5 in lieu of clipping the chockstone inspires a bit more confidence for the wide section til you c... more >>
|
Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Talking Holds (5.10a)
By: Sherri Lewis When: Jul 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Start feels a little bouldery but the rest of the climb is positive and well-protected overhanging fun. Climb is in the shade for most of the day and you can TR Turbocharger from the anchor.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : The Gobbler (5.10-)
By: Sherri Lewis When: May 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent moves and rock quality on this one. After the crux move on P2, my partner short-slung a finger-size cam off to the left(in the start of the chimney) which kept her rope from feeding into the gobbler crack as she moved upward.
Also, as you start up P3, be aware that there is an .11d route which branches off to the right after the second bolt. (My topo mistakenly had a line curving to the right for Gobbler and after a move or two in that direction it was clear I was not on a .10a.) Y... more >>
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Bourbon Street (5.8)
By: Sherri Lewis When: Apr 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: On P1, do you step right after the first bulge at the first small bushy ledge? Above this first ledge, there is a steep hand-to-fingers crack in the face leading to a larger, more imposing overhang with a fist crack running through it(none of which looks 5.7 but maybe there's hidden holds). I haven't seen that larger roof mentioned or pictured in the feedback here so I'm wondering that whole section above the first small ledge is another route altogether? Looks like there is a rap station ju... more >>
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Stick Gully : Stick Left (5.10c)
By: Sherri Lewis When: Oct 26, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not sure that pitch length is 140' as stated above. Handren guide calls it 100'. We were able to rap off with a single 70m rope with rope to spare. Fun line!
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Refrigerator Wall : La Cierta Edad (5.10d)
By: Sherri Lewis When: Oct 11, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'll add my 2 cents to ratings debate for P4. I'm 5' 1" and felt that the two bouldery moves immediately above the wide crack to be the crux; I'd say .10b, mabye 10c, though it didn't feel as stiff and desperate to me as Triassic Sands' crux. The wide part felt 5.9+--I was short enough that I could hip scum the whole thing with no laybacking and no offwidthing.
On the flip side, I offwidthed the entire length P3 because it was too wide to stem. This made it a much more sustained,... more >>
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Sweet Thin (5.9)
By: Sherri Lewis When: Oct 10, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: As per Sqwirll, we took a #3.5 and found it exceedingly useful on P6. Never felt we needed anything bigger than a #5 anywhere.
This route was a lot of fun, interesting and perfectly comfortable on a sunny 75degree October day.
The last pitch seemed rather odd to us, like it didn't really belong with the rest of the climb. My partner opted to bypass the finger crack at the top of it and follow the easier arete, clipping a bolt on the right edge of it(I believe this is the last pit... more >>
|
Location: WA : Leavenworth : Icicle Creek : Icicle Buttress : Cocaine Connection (5.7)
By: Sherri Lewis When: Sep 24, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Add my vote to what Sqwirll said. The bolt placements seem to take you where you don't want to go and can create some awful rope drag. The second time I did this route I found it easier to skip a few of the bolts; the runout was more palatable than making the awkward moves to clip all the bolts and deal with the resulting rope drag.
|
Location: WA : Index Town Walls : The Side Walls : K Cliff : Special K (5.8)
By: Sherri Lewis When: Sep 13, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I believe this route is also known as "Special K". It is arguably the best line at the K-Cliff.
There is a fixed pin at the base of the cracks. From there, opportunities for pro are everywhere you could want them. If your second is likely to peel, place gear at frequent intervals to prevent them from taking a pendulum across the dirty face to the right of the route. (This mossy area hides some large, loose flakes which could be easily dislodged.)
|
Location: WA : Index Town Walls : The Side Walls : K Cliff : CF Route (5.9+)
By: Sherri Lewis When: Sep 13, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Gaining that horizontal rail before clipping the piton can feel significantly stiffer than 5.8+ if you are closer to 5' tall than 6' tall. This move can be protected with RP's or micronuts--without them, a fall from the crux could be ugly because your last cam is at your feet when you make the move and there are ledges not far below.
|
Location: WA : Index Town Walls : Lower Town Wall : Narrow Arrow and further ri... : Tatoosh (5.10b)
By: Sherri Lewis When: Aug 11, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is one of my favorite routes at Index. A rewarding mix of crack, technical stemming, and a little chimney/offwidth thrown in for good measure.
|
Location: WA : Leavenworth : Tumwater Canyon : Clem's Holler Area : Special Spot : Opening Ceremonies (5.9)
By: Sherri Lewis When: Jun 14, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The rock quality and sequences on this route were lovely. Be sure to stay on route for the last two bolts once out of the "kayak" because the face moves to the anchors are quite fun and really add to the pitch's character. (It looks as though you could bypass this section by going up and left through some dirty, jumbled rock to get to the top.)
As mentioned, be careful on your rap if using a 60m rope--it will not reach the ground. You can downclimb the thin flake with little difficulty.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Cat Scratch Fever (5.8)
By: Sherri Lewis When: Apr 18, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Amazing that the Handren guidebook let this route go without putting at least one star beside it! It is a gem. We found every pitch enjoyable and interesting and good rock.
We roped up to get to the base of the crack system.
The crux of the 5.7 pitch(P1) can feel a bit heady for the grade but it's all there with good pro; same goes for the crux pitch(P2).
The Handren guide is a little confusing about splitting P3 and P4. It makes the most sense to combine the 50' of "4th class... more >>
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : The Rad Cliff : The Chamber of Secrets (5.7)
By: Sherri Lewis When: Apr 18, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: We did the route as one long pitch and liked it. While the handcrack at the top was the best part, I found a couple "situations" getting to it to also be engaging. Doubles of #2 and #3 cams were very useful.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Black Dagger (5.7+ PG13)
By: Sherri Lewis When: Mar 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb is quite good. The moves and rock quality on P3 are worth 5 stars!
On P2, I used a bomber #4 cam placement beside where the roof connects to the wall which totally mitigated the freak factor of pulling onto that roof from the main wall on the left with thin pro. When you get to that position, the loose white flake wedged in there looks like your only option for pro, but look just slightly above and in back of it for the solid crack.
I was glad I brought big gear(#3.5... more >>
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Black Dagger (5.7+ PG13) : Photo
By: Sherri Lewis When: Mar 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: That block that his second piece is placed next to did not seem all that solid to me. There is a bomber #4 cam placement just behind and above the block, where the roof itself is attached to the wall.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : Brass Balls (5.10)
By: Sherri Lewis When: Mar 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is quite fun and has a engaging mix of technical and strategic cruxes.
We did the alternate start(5.7ish?) up the chimney on the right side of the pillar, which avoids the .10d crux pitch. Took gear up to #5 cam. There is a place to place a #6 if you wish to haul one up, but we never felt runout because of not having one. Rap the route with double 60m's. There is loose rock, especially as you move beneath the overhang on P2, so be careful what you pull on.
It was... more >>
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Windy Peak : South Face : Hot Fudge Thursday (5.9)
By: Sherri Lewis When: Nov 18, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good route. Some thin moves on steep rock which alternated between slick varnish slopers and crumbly, soft edges kept my attention on this one. Was able to mitigate some of the runouts with tiny cams and tcu's(glad I threw a few extras on the rack).
Routefinding faux paux: On P2, I trended left across the face above the last bolt to a tree I spied in the corner up to my left(mistakenly thinking this tree was my destination--I didn't see the smaller bush up on the right til after the fact.). ... more >>
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Lotta Balls Wall : Black Magic (5.8)
By: Sherri Lewis When: Nov 14, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Well said, Chris! Agreed.
The fun starts right off the deck on that first pitch. I enjoyed the delicate/technical sequences right before and after the first two bolts. This pitch will take lots of your smallest cams and tcu's.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Upper Tier : Going Nuts (5.6)
By: Sherri Lewis When: Nov 12, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a neat little route which makes a nice finish to either JV or Beulah's. The fun corner on P1 is on great rock and the chocolate varnished plates at the start of P2 are reminiscent of Armatron. The best part is that you'll almost always have the route to yourself.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Frigid Air Buttress : Frigid Air Buttress (5.9)
By: Sherri Lewis When: Oct 27, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is one of my favorite climbs in Red Rocks.
My partner linked P3 with the 5.7 handcrack section of P4(belayed in comfortable pod just below offwidth section using gear and the bolt on the face to climbers left). This was a great idea, as it allows the leader of P4 to have the entire rack at their disposal for the offwidth section(otherwise, the 5.7 handcrack eats at least a couple of your #2's and/or #3's).
The last "short" rap from the tree at the south end of the ledge shoul... more >>
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : White Rock Spring : Angel Food Wall : Purblind Pillar (5.8)
By: Sherri Lewis When: Oct 26, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Since this is the first route I have climbed on Angel Food Wall, I don't know how it measures up to its neighbors but I can say that it was a worthwhile, quality climb. Something interesting on every pitch; struck me as sort of like the 5.8 version of Birdland.
The slopey, slab traverse on P2 was exciting. It's all there, but the blank look of the face definitely makes you think and move carefully.
On P3, there are two bolts on the face after traversing over the water groove. (rou... more >>
|
RSS Feed
