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Location: CO : Golden : The Quarry Wall : The Short Tour (5.10-)
By: Shawn Mitchell When: Sep 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: If this is 5.9, Blind Faith on the Bastille is 5.8.
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Location: J. Thompson : New route. : Photo
By: Shawn Mitchell When: Aug 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: cool pic. where is it?
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Rusty Wall : The Maneater (5.10d) : Photo
By: Shawn Mitchell When: Aug 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: 10d???
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Second Flatiron : Freeway (5.0)
By: Shawn Mitchell When: Aug 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Empire Strikes Back, young SkyLauffen: 38:09.
It looks like I'm fudging now or wasn't trying before. But that's the true time and I always felt like I was trying. It saved several minutes to run straight through without changing shoes at bottom and top. Beyond that, I guess you inspired me!
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Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Y-Crack Wall : Straight No Chaser (5.11c) : Photo
By: Shawn Mitchell When: Aug 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: EB's are one thing, but a swami belt? Wow.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : Mescalito (5.9+ A3)
By: Shawn Mitchell When: Aug 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: June of '81. Had the luxury of watching a similar convulsive moment, secure from the belay, as Pat Brannon pulled up oodles of slack and then lie-backed to the ledge. Other party member was Rick Lynsky.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Elevenmile Dome : Face Value (5.9-)
By: Shawn Mitchell When: Aug 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very fun bolted face. Steep, well protected, but not sewn up. A couple runouts on moderate ground hold the attention. Well worth doing and a great climb to set a toprope for strong beginners. A 60m gets down nicely, but make sure it's the middle!
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Lower Capitalist Crag : Cheap Labor (5.10a)
By: Shawn Mitchell When: Aug 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Maybe I was off route, but I felt the crux was some thin crimps and digits up and left just before the traverse and mantle to the final fingerlock headwall.
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Location: Shawn Mitchell : TNO CCC 7/21 : Photo
By: Shawn Mitchell When: Aug 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I stand corrected; which also explains the grim all-business look on your face. Someone was, at that moment, in good hands!
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Location: Shawn Mitchell : Miscellenia : Photo
By: Shawn Mitchell When: Aug 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very cool Micah. Sometime we'll have to climb and compare our snakes...
Heh.
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Location: Shawn Mitchell : Miscellenia : Photo
By: Shawn Mitchell When: Aug 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Buildering? It's a big wall, man.
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Location: Shawn Mitchell : Miscellenia : Photo
By: Shawn Mitchell When: Jul 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Your local department store. :) Scuffing some cheap leather loafers was worth the experience. Some in my group freaked out, but I figured the guards in the machine gun towers were more worried about guys climbing from the other side...
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Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry : Play with Your Balls (5.11a/b)
By: Shawn Mitchell When: Jul 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Established on Lowe Balls but "further inspection" revealed CAM PLACEMENTS?? Me thinks you stinted on gear and risked your neck for a smartass route name!
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Location: Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiG... : Boot Camp : Photo
By: Shawn Mitchell When: Jul 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Damn determined look in those shades!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : The Box : Hand Crack (5.9)
By: Shawn Mitchell When: Jul 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun 20' grovel. Decidedly right-leaning. BETA ALERT: Offwidth humping with left leg; internal and corner edge-pulling for the hands.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : The Box : Stone Love (5.10d)
By: Shawn Mitchell When: Jul 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Amazing airy moves! Footwork makes a lot of difference. P 1 is grainy but fun, and entirely optional. You can scramble up to p 2 from the right, or walk around and down to it from the left.
Per the guide book...40 minutes to approach??? Put on your track shoes.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Shirt Tail Peak : Gambit (5.8)
By: Shawn Mitchell When: Jul 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just spectacular fun! Skip the bird ledge and link 2&3. Also, a vote to finish the money pitch (the initial turn onto the face) at the first bench-perch ledge about 30 or 40 feet up. For a magic last pitch, take that ledge left to the arete-it slants down, then steps up to the corner. Sail for the top. Nicer than Rewritten; doesn't get any better.
Continuing up the face via different crack systems is classic, too; do it sometime. But after climbing the arete, I can't seem to... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Bumbling Stock : Crack a Beer (5.10+)
By: Shawn Mitchell When: Jul 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: After a slip getting started, I fired it, but... My strategy was sinking the right arm for very deep palm-up fist jams in the limited constrictions, and a relentless gaston off the left edge. Fine on top rope, but probably impossible to reconcile with the demands of placing and climbing past gear.
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Location: Avery N : Spandex and Traddie Day : Photo
By: Shawn Mitchell When: Jul 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It warms my heart there are prosthetics for Iraq War veterans.
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Location: Lee Smith : Misc Pics : Photo
By: Shawn Mitchell When: Jul 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Can you blame them, Lee? I mean, the way you threw them together... That middle lower cubby looks awfully cozy http://www.mountainproject.com/v/lee_smith/106316317
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : The Weeping Wall : Surprise (5.8 R)
By: Shawn Mitchell When: Jul 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I remembered from boyhood this climb was runout, but I didn't remember how runout. After the 20 foot p.1 crack, you go all the (easy) way to the belay. But the shockers was crux p.2. After the short traverse to the one bolt--and not so modern a bolt--you do the crux, then go the rest of the way, with a bit of 5.6 at the top, to the belay.
Easy stuff, but you better be comfortable on friction WAY out from gear.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Right of the Escalator : The Shadow (5.8 R)
By: Shawn Mitchell When: Jul 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Weird how age changes your climbing style. In my teens in the late 70's, the crux trough was physical, sloppy, and insecure: Lean right against hands palming the rounded edge, and smear-walk my feet up the left side wall.
Back this spring after 30 years, I looked for the same combination, and didn't really feel it. But right of the trough, I saw and used a number of edges and nubs that made it a kind of technical, tricky, static and angled crimpy. It was rated 7 then, but felt scary. Still doe... more >>
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Location: OkieGirl : Spain : Photo
By: Shawn Mitchell When: Jul 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Weird, Daryl! After a while, I started to see some rock, too!
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Location: Shawn Mitchell : Huston Crack July 7 : Photo
By: Shawn Mitchell When: Jul 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hysterically funny! The only part tenesmus missed was "What are you...like 50 years old?!"
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : West Buttress (5.9+)
By: Shawn Mitchell When: Jul 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hmm. Seems there's lots of beta about options after the crux, but nothing about nailing that reach. So...EXCESSIVE BETA WARNING: After the traverse, clip the pins, position your feet up on the little ledge, and select a higher edge for your right foot to press a semi-lieback. Decide which right pull crimps in the crack to crank on, imagine powering the move and throwing your left hand up to the holds above the crack, and it feels HARD! Hard crank, hard balance, hard everything. If you do it like... more >>
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