Comments: Using chalk is just as lame and more of an eyesore. Writing the name shows you where the route begins, whereas chalk shows you where every single hold is on the route. And tick marks are especially an onsight killer and lame.
Comments: "Routes here tend to be on the shorter side (up to 12 bolts)"!? I don't think there's a single route where I live which has 12 bolts on it, regardless of length. I have to come check this place out!
And although he won't provide proof for having sent it, Rich Simpsons video is really inspiring for the area's most famous route and also serves as a brilliant description of the area (though his German is terrible).
Comments: This page would be a lot better if somebody added some more beta pictures to define where the bolt lines run. The guidebook is pretty out-of-date and incorrect, especially with the left side of the crag.
Comments: I also deviated from what's in the video. I placed a left hand in the small pocket where he has a right, then slotted the fingers of my right hand into the crack immediately above the pocket, then made the lunge to the jug at the 2nd bolt. Lief's idea is nice but unfortunately (or maybe fortunately, who knows) I didn't notice the block when I managed to onsight this (my first .12a onsight!) :)
Comments: Yes. I did this route and barely onsighted it, which is exactly the same result as for Tortuga, and it was harder than Shades of Grey so it must be between 5.11c and 5.12a. What is the name of this route?
Comments: I don't agree with boltclippinfool on how this route runs. I do, however, agree with most of the rest of what he says. Here's my route description.
Start on Glutton for Punishment for the first two bolts. Runout the rest of the even easier slab (5.3) to the bolt line on the left. Follow this straight up through a bulge and great pockets to a crimpy and balancey crux at the anchor where the weight of the rope makes the moves feel more difficult than they are. 5.9 tops and something like 8 bolts ... more >>
Comments: There's a conflict I noticed in the description since I'm looking at this area for a potential winter visit. It says that this place offers comfortable winter climbing, but that the temperature is 15-20 colder than in St. George. According to Wikipedia, the average high in February (when I would be there) is 58.8 in St. George, meaning it could be potentially 39° in Pine Valley, which I don't consider comfortable. So which is it? Good winter destination or not?
Comments: Some useful info: The name is pronounced something like "Bukes". You can't stay (overnight) in Buoux, but you can camp in one of the two nearby towns, Apt or Bonnieux. In Apt you have the following three campgrounds to choose from: - This campground is in the heart of Apt, making it pretty hard to sleep in the morning as there are large trucks as well as normal cars which drive by close to it. However, it's the cheapest and the toilets have toilet paper. There's also a community 'fridge, which ... more >>
Comments: Highly featured indeed, but the pockets are disappointing to say the least. Every one you grab you go to with high hopes only to discover that they're desperately shallow! This route is also difficult for 6+, so 5.10b may be more applicable.
Comments: Due to a storm and strong winds this past weekend (3rd and 4th of August, 2013), some of the trees in this area were blown down and as a result uprooted. This includes the trees on top of this tower (Amberger Turm) which have resultantly pried the rock loose and destroyed the two routes "Maus ohne Schwanz" and "Polyphoner Tinnitus".
Comments: I think he was too, but Shirley looks pretty terrified for this being a 5.5. I wish there were more "5.5"s like this in the Alps! It would make convincing my wife to do get on some of those routes a little easier.