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Member Since: Jan 18, 2007
Last Visit: Aug 25, 2014
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Point Rank: # 9,447
Total Points: 25
Last Year: 2
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 29 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 15 | Posts 14 | Stars | Ratings

Contributed Comments

 

Location: ID : McCall Area : Slick Rock
By: Shapp When: May 31, 2012

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Comments: About 7 or 8 years ago, on the far right side of slick rock proper one can see 2 prominant huge cracks at the top 1/3 of the crag. We climbed a route more or less staight up from the bottom to these double cracks then up to the top via the left crack, leaving no fixed gear but passing some slings and couple fixed stoppers. It was in the 5.7 range or so, full standard rack to 5" and double ropes were handy. I know we were not the first on this line.


Location: OR : Northeastern Oregon : Spring Mountain : Epiphany roof (5.10a/b)
By: Shapp When: May 31, 2012

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Comments: My favorite way to climb this roof is to climb straight up the awsome finger crack of trix, no need to clip any of the bolts, the finger crack is A1 and super fun, clip the bolt on the roof and fire over the top. Great mixed route variation, only needing to climb 2 bolts at the roof and over the top. I find this to be the most direct and fun line to the roof.


Location: OR : Northeastern Oregon : Spring Mountain : Pod of God (5.8)
By: Shapp When: May 31, 2012

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Comments: This is a super fun route, pulling out of the top of the pod is super fun on jugs


Location: OR : Northeastern Oregon : Spring Mountain : Flaked out (5.9+)
By: Shapp When: May 31, 2012

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Comments: A variation on this bolted route can be enjoyable and safely lead on trad gear starting in the corner on the right of the start of the bolt line then heading for the flake once surmounting the initial bulge of the groove/corner, using 2 inch cams under the flake traverse instead of the bolts.


Location: OR : Northeastern Oregon : Spring Mountain : Bat Crack (5.6)
By: Shapp When: May 31, 2012

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Comments: The climb ended around to the left for a long time, it was that way when I climbed it several times in the mid to late 1990s


Location: OR : Northeastern Oregon : High Valley : Upper or Main Wall : Do or Fly (5.10-)
By: Shapp When: May 7, 2010

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Comments: great, but short,

The route is really a hand crack with 2 fist jams at the final move up and over the bulge to big face jug to the right.

0.5 to #4 camalts (C4) will get you up nicely, or a #11 hex placed end-wise works good for the final piece.


Location: OR : Northeastern Oregon : Spring Mountain : Arthritis (5.11a)
By: Shapp When: May 6, 2010

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Comments: If by standard rack, you mean double TCUs from 00 to 1, and a 0.5 and 1 inch cam, then I think you have it. I wonder how many folks have lead this besides myself, apparently you, and Steve.

Is this an inside joke posting this route first. If so, I think it is major humerous, considering the style bolting at this crag. Not trying to start a bolt debate, just appreciating the apparent irony.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Monkey Face : West Face (Aid) (Easy 5th C1)
By: Shapp When: Oct 28, 2009

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Comments: Big props to the late Chris Pernel (spelling?)for replacing the ancient belay bolts back in the early 1990s, which made all future ascents possible. P.s. if you lost a Petzel zoom in the back notch cave in the early 1990s, send me an email and I can get it back to you. No longer need it now that there are nicer smaller ones available.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Monkey Face : West Face Variation (5.8 C0)
By: Shapp When: Oct 28, 2009

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Comments: On pitch 2, take the variation out to the left, the climbing is no harder than the first pitch and gets you to the bolt ladder in one long pitch, eliminating the need for the 3rd pitch travers. Bring long runners to eliminate rope drag and/or use double rope method instead of a single chord. If not rope drag may be a PITA. The climbing on this variation is far better than the regular pitch 2/3 combo.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : The Four Horsemen : Friday's Jinx (5.7)
By: Shapp When: Oct 28, 2009

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Comments: If you use double rope method for leading, which really helps with rope drag on the first pitch, then rapping is not a problem, besides you can walk right around the corner and rap cinamon slab. A second set of anchors at the top would be lame. Actaully, when I first climbed this route in about 1992, there were not bolts at the top. You could get a big stopper in the slot and wedge your body for a body belay in the top slot.

For a 5.8 variation, take the first pitch of Fridays jinx, then c... more >>


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : The Christian Brothers : New Testament (5.10a)
By: Shapp When: Oct 28, 2009

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Comments: I don't understand the gear warning. Gear is ample and A1 on this pitch.


Location: OR : Willamette Valley : Flagstone : Hydrotube Area : Hydrotube (5.8+)
By: Shapp When: Oct 27, 2009

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Comments: This route was unfortunately retrobolted several years ago, it was perfectly safe when I first lead it in about 1993 (not the FA). Does anyone know who or why more bolts were added?


Location: OR : Northeastern Oregon : High Valley
By: Shapp When: Oct 27, 2009

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Comments: fun little crag, one should not miss the aptly named do or fly, However, I think nearly all the routes are less than 45 feet long.


Location: OR : Willamette Valley : The Garden : The Garden : Garden Groove (5.10a)
By: Shapp When: Oct 27, 2009

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Comments: I am 99.9% sure that the first ascent on lead was done by Matt Pike around 1994 or so, possibly with Paul Baraza. I am sure there was no lead bolt then, although I think they might have put one on top. There was a bolt on top when I climbed it. I also lead this route in about 1996 and I know others did before me. The FA by Tyler in 2005 as noted above is incorrect. I would wager that many of the supposed FAs in the 2000s were actually not FAs at all. There was quite a bit going on there in ... more >>


Location: ID : McCall Area : Slick Rock : Regular Route (5.6)
By: Shapp When: Mar 5, 2009

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Comments: The route is way longer than 700ft, when I climbed it back in about 1995, there was only 1 old bolt on the whole route (all belays were gear anchors), why did someone feel the need for more? I cacluated at the time there was about 1350 feet of climbing (we did it in 9 pitches). You might not need anything biger than a #2 (what brand?) but there are lots of opportunites to place #3 and #4 friends or #4 camalots too, if you are a new leader.
Shapp