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The Sun with Pikes Peak in the distance.  <br />South Platte valley, Fall 2010


Member Since: Nov 5, 2001
Last Visit: Aug 20, 2014
Contact Shane Zentner


Point Rank: # 1,537
Total Points: 391
Last Year: 5
Last 30 Days: 0
6 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Shane Zentner been climbing?










Contributions


All 459 | Routes 8 | Areas | Photos 27 | Page Improvments | Comments 176 | Posts 162 | Stars 55 | Ratings 31
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Acid Rock : Charley Don't Surf (5.10d)
By: Shane Zentner When: Jul 1, 2012

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Comments: Consider the first 130 feet of the first pitch to be 5.8 fingers, then, very quickly, the finger crack thins into tight tips and the angle goes from steep to vertical for the remaining 20 feet. Insecure smearing with thin but good pro. I followed this pitch and was challenged to the bitter end.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Arrowhead : Ripsaw/Northeast Ridge (5.10a)
By: Shane Zentner When: Aug 23, 2011

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Comments: Descending the north face is tricky and dangerous due to the many cliffs and slabs that are present, especially during an afternoon thunderstorm. To descend the north face, look for a series of cairns NW of the true summit. These will eventually take you to a break in the cliffs and into a gulley system. Look for rap anchors in the gully, however, these are difficult to find(we got lucky). Perhaps a better descent alternative is to take the south ramp exit.

That said, The NE Ridge is a great c... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Big Rock Candy Mountain : Rotten Teeth (5.10)
By: Shane Zentner When: Apr 5, 2011

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Comments: Runout and adventurous on decomposing granite. I bailed from the upper reaches of the fourth pitch due to high wind velocity on runout slab. The two green screamers and four blue/orange Petzl biners were left on the accompanying bolts as was the rap anchor at the start of the pitch. Much credit is given to the first ascentionists on their accomplishment; however, I probably won't return to complete the climb. A cold beer from the Southern Sun awaits the person who returns the biners an... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : The Sun : Better Lock Next Time (5.10b)
By: Shane Zentner When: Sep 23, 2010

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Comments: Classic. Undoubtedly the finest 5.10 (and perhaps the most strenuous 5.10) in the Platte that Iíve discovered. We carried (4) red Camalots, (4) gold Camalots, (3) blue Camalots and a standard rack with a full set of BD stoppers. The original starting pitches are worth the effort as they are fun and offer a gradual warm-up for the upper pitches ahead. Pitches 4 and 5 are sustained.


Location: CO : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : The Sun : Halogen Angels (5.10a/b R)
By: Shane Zentner When: May 29, 2010

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Comments: John,
Halogen Angels is a true masterpiece and a route that should set the standard for south platte ethics. I also enjoy hearing stories about how those routes were established on lead, ground up, on-sight.

Shane


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Torture Chamber : Torture Chamber Traverse (V1)
By: Shane Zentner When: Sep 27, 2009

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Comments: Without heelhooks, one is essentially campusing most of the problem while smearing their toes along a horizontal roof onto small edges, while completing a forty foot traverse.

For what it's worth, I started the traverse from the upper right end and toe-hooked my way from right-to-left for the first twenty feet or so while facing east from the top. Burly and strenuous, I completed a portion of the problem then jumped off.


Location: CO : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : Wigwam Dome : Ramblin' Rose (5.10)
By: Shane Zentner When: Jun 20, 2009

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Comments: Pitch 1. As mentioned above, we climbed broken rock and cracks until the traverse(up and right) to the anchor at the start of the huge dihedral. Never found the 5.6 knobs.

Pitch 2.5. Very asthetic climbing in a beautiful dihedral. Water was oozing from the roof crack. Perhaps one of the best 5.7 pitches around. This is actually two pitches.

Pitch 3 (crux). A #1 Camalot placed in the crack between bolts 1 and 2 adds a little reassurance. Reach big for the crack at the fourth bolt and ... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Snake Buttress : Hodge Podge (5.9)
By: Shane Zentner When: May 9, 2009

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Comments: Stay out of the cave as the route follows the thorny bushes, crack, and slab to the bolted belay under the offwidth. I had the luxury of following the offwidth pitch and was completely worked when I finished it.


Location: Tony B : Unknown Photos- help me! : Photo
By: Shane Zentner When: Jan 31, 2009

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Comments: The crux of Locksmith Dihedral, Sphinx Rock. An awesome climb in a closed area.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Seal Rock
By: Shane Zentner When: Dec 12, 2008

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Comments: Regarding the descent: The rap anchors are 30 feet down and climber's right of the true summit. One can either climb the entire face and downclimb to the anchors, rap from the anchors as you get to them, or downclimb the obvious gully system to the ledge where you can locate the walk off at the north edge of the east face. I advise climbing with two ropes, going to the summit, and downclimbing to the rap anchors. We downclimbed a section of rock on our way to the walk off ledge (not advised) whi... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : variation to Mail Ridge (5.10b/c)
By: Shane Zentner When: Dec 11, 2008

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Comments: This variation felt 5.10+++ in my opinion. I remember protecting the crux with a #0.5 Camalot and falling.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Tenmile Canyon aka Officer'... : Three Tiers (WI2+)
By: Shane Zentner When: Nov 25, 2008

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Comments: As of 11/22/2008, all three tiers have thick ice. The last pitch was almost an entire snow climb with little ice at the start. The descent is not too bad if you can locate the tattered red sling, down and climbers left when you reach the end of the snow. We climbed the route in (4) sixty meter pitches and used everything from 10cm-19cm screws with no rock protection. A great way to start the season.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Rosy Crucifixion (5.10a PG13)
By: Shane Zentner When: Sep 27, 2008

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Comments: The first pitch felt 5.10+, perhaps it was the traverse and exposure. I would hesitate to rate this 5.10a, I thought it felt 5.10c for sure. Agreed, a strong second is advised, otherwise a fall would result in one hell of a swing. In my opinion, it is just as difficult for the leader as it is for the second. I followed the second pitch, and, must say, was thoroughly worked. I thought leading the first pitch was scary and committing, this climb was good for the head.

We rappelled using 2 six... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Deckers : Photo
By: Shane Zentner When: Sep 12, 2008

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Comments: Yes, Derek is correct in his beta regarding the routes that are located on the right section of the dome. He and I climbed there about 4 years ago, the route was a 2 pitch 5.10ish slab that was sparsely protected. The start of the second pitch was a bit tricky and runout. We had discussed not adding this to the database, but alas, good things come to those who wait.


Location: Tony B : Unknown Photos- help me! : Photo
By: Shane Zentner When: Aug 21, 2008

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Comments: Looks like a variation of the 'Great Dihedral' located directly left of 'Handbook' on the Bookend at Lumpy Ridge. I started climbing this section of rock, then backed off and followed the true course of the route which is 5.7.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Outer Space (5.10c R)
By: Shane Zentner When: Aug 16, 2008

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Comments: I protected the opening moves of the last pitch with a red Metolius Astro nut, a green Alien, then clipped the pin. The remaining pitch was incredible and steep with multiple 5.9+ sections. There is a small, sloping ledge about half way through the pitch that offers a chance to 'rest', though I found it difficult to rest there. The exposure, steepness, and awesome views of the canyon took my breath away.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : Night Vision (5.10b PG13)
By: Shane Zentner When: Jul 21, 2008

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Comments: The slot that Crusher mentions takes a #3 BD stopper placed broadside out. The placement is solid and secure and provides protection while getting to the first bolt (this works because I fell and it held).

Going for the second bolt is another ball of wax. As mentioned in the above post-do not fall as one would hit the tree and possibly the ground. There are several ways of getting to the second bolt, both of which are 5.10 moves. Stated simply: The crux of the first pitch is well above ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : East Crack (5.10b)
By: Shane Zentner When: Jul 20, 2008

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Comments: I placed two #3 stoppers, two green Aliens, and one blue Alien throughout the pitch above the roof. The gear is where it needs to be(kind of), although I found placing the gear very challenging and difficult. Indeed, the crack gets progressively harder until the piton (the pin could be 4-6 feet lower in my opinion). The finger crack on the third pitch is worth the effort.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Notchtop : Direct South Ridge (5.9)
By: Shane Zentner When: Jul 13, 2008

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Comments: Scrap the '5.6 chimney' and climb the 5.8 slab on pitch 4. Two cracks will be obvious after the slab: one crack will be crusted with orange lichen(right crack), another will angle up and right on good rock(left crack). I took the left crack and consider it 5.8-.

The 5.9 variation is incredible. Though I didn't lead the 5.9 roof pitch, I felt the exposure! Awesome.

We added an additional 400 feet to the route by starting lower at the first ledge system. Both pitches are 200 hundred feet(60 me... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : Cosmosis (5.9+)
By: Shane Zentner When: Jul 4, 2008

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Comments: Small wires protect the crux, however, it can be a bit heady making the move to the good finger jams above. Good gear placements throughout the entire route. Similar to Curving Crack but harder, not as sustained as West Face to the right. Rp's to a #3 camalot, concentrate on small/medium cams. The crux felt 5.10a with sections of 5.9 throughout the climb.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Colorado Springs & vicinity : Pike's Peak : North Face of Pike's Peak : Blind Assumption (WI5 M5)
By: Shane Zentner When: Jun 7, 2008

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Comments: Attempted Blind Assumption today and failed. Thin, rotten ice and very wet in the couloir. The seriousness of this climb should not be taken lightly (then again, I'm not much of an alpinist, so take my advice with a grain of salt). My friend and I found the route out of condition and scary-both of us backed down while attempting the first pitch.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend : Climb of the Ancient Marine... (5.10a)
By: Shane Zentner When: Jun 1, 2008

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Comments: The second pitch has no move harder than 5.9, though it's a bit runout getting to the first bolt from the belay. It is sustained 5.9 slab climbing; you have to constantly think throughout the pitch. It does not let up until you are finished. The bolts are placed where they need to be; however, they are thinly spaced. The climber should have a head for runout slab climbing (hint, hint: think South Platte).

I followed the first pitch and led the second, and, I thought the ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : Face Route (5.11a X)
By: Shane Zentner When: May 18, 2008

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Comments: The entire climb felt 5.11 as there are several cruxs throughout, especially at the start. The seam at the top might take 'small' RPs if I remember correctly (I seriously doubt it). This would be a bold lead as it probably would have to be climbed without gear, perhaps an awkward small cam placement periodically (again, I doubt it). Face Route makes for a fun late day adventure as it will leave you feeling complete and energized as it did me. Most of the moves involve balancy, intricate, and tec... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : The Dome : Bolts to Somewhere (5.10a)
By: Shane Zentner When: Dec 12, 2007

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Comments: All three pitches are excellent. I would consider the first 2/3 of the last pitch to be continuous well protected 5.10-, exactly half the bolts than Topo. One of the best pitches that I have led on The Dome and a must do for anyone hiking to the area. Everything from crack to slabbing, a typical awesome South Platte climb.


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : The Dome : Pornographic Motions (5.10- PG13)
By: Shane Zentner When: Nov 26, 2007

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Comments: Pitch 1 (5.10): As mentioned by Brent, follow discontinuous cracks to the slab, clip the bolt (5.10), and belay at the big tree. Small gear.

Pitch 2 (5.9+/5.10): Climb onto the sloping ledge from the pine tree with slings. I used the water groove with the left hand/foot and the small holds with the right hand/foot placements and worked my way right, then up to the crack. The crack takes small gear to a #3 Camalot. I placed a #0.4 Camalot at the start of the crack and a #2 Cam... more >>


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