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Member Since: Jul 23, 2002
Last Visit: Jul 14, 2013
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Point Rank: # 1,316
Total Points: 459
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has shad O'Neel been climbing?










Contributions


All 251 | Routes 22 | Areas 3 | Photos 10 | Page Improvments | Comments 144 | Posts | Stars 58 | Ratings 14
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : South Face : South Face - Left Side : Left Ski Track (5.6)
By: shad O'Neel When: Nov 11, 2007

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Comments: Really fun , lots of nuts typical for tahhquitz. I found a big piece useful, both in the 2nd anchor and to protect for my second above the bolt on the finish pitch. A red tricam protected the move getting into the crack off the slab way better than a cam, i cant imagine climbing here without tricams.



Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Limbo Area : The Rift (5.9)
By: shad O'Neel When: Oct 28, 2007

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Comments: slick indeed, the feet are tricky at the start, and for a non-gym climber this felt steep! Takes good gear though, although placing it was maybe the crux. Eases way up after 15 feet, pretty fun - stays in the shade longer than others.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Lunch Rock : The Ramp (5.7)
By: shad O'Neel When: Oct 28, 2007

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Comments: Make sure to bring small wires, even a couple rp's if you arent trusting your feet yet on mission gorge's slickery rock. The crack is pretty banged out, so trying to place cams seems tricky, sucks up the little wires though. This route would be ultra classic if it was longer and located somewhere beautiful.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : North Face : Northeast Face West (5.6)
By: shad O'Neel When: Aug 17, 2007

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Comments: This route was excellent. Very sustained climbing, i would not hesitate to say its sandbagged at 5.6. The topo has a 5.7 section drawn on it in the latest book, which i guess you can skirt to the left. Not sure what you are supposed to do near the top, we followed the corner straight up, which was good, but didnt seem very traveled. We tried this idea of a 60' P1, belayed atop the dihedral wall just before the climbing gets really interesting. THis allowed tree belays for the rest of the ro... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Northwest Recess : The Long Climb (5.8)
By: shad O'Neel When: May 28, 2007

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Comments: When you get to the base its obvious why everyone does the Wong start - its much prettier. The mummy isnt bad, and protect nicely with small/med cams. We linked 3&4, 3 has lots of chong-a-bong rocks, but good gear exists. The mahogany is dead. Above the fir is the crux, and the pin has been broken off (somewhat protectable with rp's). This is solid 5.8 for 10-15 feet.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Northwest Recess : Wong Climb (5.8)
By: shad O'Neel When: May 28, 2007

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Comments: The first pitch is really good, and I thought not hard for 5.8. THen finish with Long climb for a great outing. Some bigger pieces are nice to have along on the route, 3 & 3.5 or 4.

The mummy actually protects well with smaller gear.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Crags : Sharksfin
By: shad O'Neel When: Jul 21, 2006

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Comments: There is a nice rap anchor just as you finish the Kor Route. This consists of a steel cable slung around a chunk of the tower, backed up with a nut and climbing rope. We thought, how nice, and tried a double rope rap to the base of the fin, but the ropes don't pull easily from there. It's best to stop at the ledge, and then scramble down, or rap from slings that are here. Not sure if a single 60m gets you to the ledge or not, make sure to check for yourself......


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Pine Cone Dome : Jolly Jugular (5.6)
By: shad O'Neel When: Jun 10, 2006

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Comments: This has been very well bolted. I guess it's safe now.


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Pine Cone Dome : Jolly Jugular (5.6) : Photo
By: shad O'Neel When: Jun 10, 2006

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Comments: This has recently been very well bolted. I guess it's safe now.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Ignominity (5.9)
By: shad O'Neel When: Nov 7, 2005

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Comments: If you go left of the first tree there is a cool, steep corner system that protects well and is a bit less wandery than going right. We also didn't figure out the third pitch and did the easy slot above the rap tree. Gives reason for a repeat. Really good route, much more solid than it appears from below, excellent climbing, with committing but protectable cruxes.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Crystal Freeway : Strawberry Jam (5.8)
By: shad O'Neel When: Aug 10, 2005

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Comments: The offwidth part of this climb seemed easier than the upper slot, just longer. There are some good jams and smallish gear (like #3's) in the back of the crack, but if you are scared and have a 4.5 or 5 you can walk it the entire length of the OW making this a good lead for those like me trying to get comfy in wide world.The last 30 feet are very interesting.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Crystal Freeway : Northeast Cutoff (5.5)
By: shad O'Neel When: Jul 29, 2005

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Comments: cool traverse, spicy for 5.5


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Split Block : Ohmer's Odyssey (5.9)
By: shad O'Neel When: Apr 18, 2005

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Comments: The loose hold still wiggles. Great climb. Well worth it, if ever in the area. A #4 is nice to shove in while wondering if the jug is going to snap off......


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Veil : Wanderlust (5.7)
By: shad O'Neel When: Apr 18, 2005

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Comments: Was hoping for a cleaner line than this route offered. The upper corner looks so nice from afar, but its short and very easy. The last few moves are nice, but I thought the majority of the climb was chossy and not that interesting.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden : South Face (5.8 R)
By: shad O'Neel When: Feb 23, 2005

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Comments: Exciting route, We both felt still spicy even with new bolts. The first pitch seemed much more challenging than it looks to be from the ground. I found the runout on P2 to be exciting, as was the crux above the bolts. Continuing up the E face in nuclear winds was great fun, a really exposed step around to get started....


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : MBA Buttress : Good Man Dan (5.10b/c)
By: shad O'Neel When: Dec 5, 2004

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Comments: Intimidating, but not very hard, much easier than Politicians Priests and Bodybags, which is only a 10a.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge : All Mixed Up (WI4 R)
By: shad O'Neel When: Nov 20, 2004

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Comments: You're right ac, I've never left the state, in fact, I don't even climb, I just snowshoe up the trail to watch the crazies


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge : All Mixed Up (WI4 R)
By: shad O'Neel When: Nov 17, 2004

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Comments: Climbing ice below other parties is something [I've] seen only in Crowdorado. The last couple weekends weve found extremely crowded conditions both here at all mixed up and at [Alexander's Chimney] the weekend before, with 20+ people fighting for dibs on 2 routes ([Alex's] and Martha). Since we werent first, we retreated to [Peacock Pool] instead of risking getting pummeled by dinner plates. Climbing below others is kinda nuts when routes go up gullies and chimneys.

All [Mixed Up] was no di... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : ... : Satan's Slab (5.8 R)
By: shad O'Neel When: Oct 31, 2004

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Comments: I found the crux to be different than described here, more where Rossiter shows 8+ on his topo, that is just after you haul yourself over the first roof. I think I traversed at back right at the appropriate time, there was a small undercling like crack, but for me this was tricky and balancy. If I were an inch taller, or had longer arms, this may have been trivial, but I was way above my last piece thinking, damn, don't fall! The rest of the route is great, spicy enough to keep you on your toe... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bitty Buttress : Bitty Buttress (5.8+)
By: shad O'Neel When: Oct 25, 2004

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Comments: I [didn't] chop the bolts, but I am glad to hear that they have been removed. I was actually hoping that whoever marred the route would speak up, but that [didn't] happen either. Thanks to whoever did this communtiy service. Judging from the few comments that were posted about these bolts, the majority of the community seems to agree, there [isn't] a home for bolts on Bitty Buttress.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bitty Buttress : Bitty Buttress (5.8+)
By: shad O'Neel When: Oct 12, 2004

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Comments: [I'm] surprised that you [didn't] mind the bolts, [Stefan], since you refused to clip the bolts on the [Dominator] at the [Avalon] (short, now cleaned, good but not a three star route), which seems less of an issue to me than adding bolts on a 40 yr old 3-star classic in the same canyon. If these bolts are for a sport climb, the author of that sport climb should have had the respect for the hardmen that led these pitches in 1964 with leather boots and pitons and probably a rope tied around thei... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bitty Buttress : Bitty Buttress (5.8+)
By: shad O'Neel When: Oct 11, 2004

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Comments: After 40 years with no one putting the drill to this climb, the best 5.8 in Boulder Canyon, why did someone deem it necessary to drill two bolts next to decent cracks? If I routinely carried a crowbar, there wouldn't be anymore bolts. You should be embarrassed.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sleeping Beauty : Main Wall : Sunlight Makes Me Paranoid (5.10c)
By: shad O'Neel When: Sep 14, 2004

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Comments: This is the only route with a one-bolt anchor at the base, although the start may be confusing. There are two bolts visible 8-10 feet up, you want to go towards the right one. This all sorts itself out once you start up, but from the ground I was confused. I was pleasantly surprised at how fun this route was, from the start it looked iffy, but is well worthwhile. My shorter partner found the moves under the roof pretty reachy, and hard a harder time than I did. This climb is interesting the... more >>


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Rock Garden : Copacetic (5.11b)
By: shad O'Neel When: Sep 9, 2004

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Comments: Let this one pump up your ego, then go try Organic Gardening and realize that 5.11a might be a wee tiny bit harder than 5.11b at the rock garden. I couldn't lead the Organic Garden, but if you can, do so, it's the best thing we climbed at Penitente....


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Huecos Rancheros (5.10c)
By: shad O'Neel When: Sep 9, 2004

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Comments: Easy 5.10 climbing, one move wonder but damn fine huecos.


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