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Location: VT : Smugglers Notch : Top of the Notch Boulders : The Impossible Problem (V7)
By: Seth Maciejowski When: Dec 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Morgan
Thump and Forest Thump on the other end of the boulder are the problems that are no longer doable. A large boulder that fell off the deep end buttress is now pasted to the face right where the line of "Thump" was.
Primate is still intact, but may be slightly contrived now.
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Location: VT : Smugglers Notch : Top of the Notch Boulders : Thump (V5)
By: Seth Maciejowski When: Dec 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This problem is gone due to a large boulder up against the face that fell from the Deep End Buttress in late summer 2012. Primate is still doable, but now has stemming at the end.
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Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton : Donkey Index (5.11a)
By: Seth Maciejowski When: Oct 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Derek,
Trav and I climbed the chimney this summer. I think he has it up on his guidebooks updates page as "The Roots". There's a more runout harder variation up in the main chimney to the right of the crack we climbed.
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Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper Upper West Bolton : Wild West Wall : Noises in the Night (5.7)
By: Seth Maciejowski When: Oct 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm glad you enjoyed this line. It is a particular favorite of mine.
I climbed this a few weeks ago and all the bolts were there. There is 10 bolts on this pitch equating to a bolt every 10-12' Yes you will take a fairly good winger if you blow a clip (I believe Derrek D could fill you in on that), but I would not consider this run out. Consider this good training for any typical NE slab pitch....
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Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton : Donkey Index (5.11a)
By: Seth Maciejowski When: Aug 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A great pitch. There's also the route "Great Chimney" 5.7 off the Onceler ledge that takes an adventurous path up behind the detached face of the Rose and the Thorn. Bring small gear and a wire brush...
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Location: VT : Bolton Area : Photo
By: Seth Maciejowski When: Apr 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ribbit Ridge 5.5 2 pitches.
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Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper Upper West Bolton
By: Seth Maciejowski When: Apr 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of my favorite crags. It's a shame that most people don't really know what the routes are here for the most part. Hopefully that will change with the guidebook coming out. I put a few up here for people to check out, I'll leave the rest for your sense of adventure.
NOTE : This cliff is closed entirely through Aug 1 generally due to nesting peregrines. Please adhere to the climbing ban.
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Location: VT : Bolton Area : 82 Crag : The Dirty Duo (5.9)
By: Seth Maciejowski When: Apr 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ok, so the duo is REALLY dirty. It's amazing how overgrown it's gotten in just a few years. Hopefully we can scrub it off this summer and get it back into climbable condition again. If anyone wants to volunteer go for it!
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Location: VT : Bolton Area : Lower West Bolton : Harvest Moon (5.7+ R)
By: Seth Maciejowski When: Apr 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think this deserves a pg13 at a minimum possibly even an R protection rating. Cam placements in the flaring flake are dubious and tricky to place. Not a route to learn trad technique on....
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Location: VT : Bolton Area : Lower West Bolton : Hush, Mama Thrush (5.8)
By: Seth Maciejowski When: Apr 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great pitch! I never tire of it. Good interesting moves throughout. I agree with Derek. Best pitch at lwb.
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Location: VT : Bolton Area : 82 Crag : The Dirty Duo (5.9)
By: Seth Maciejowski When: Apr 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: No. Hoping with some beta people might hop on it more and keep it cleaner. Dennis and I also have a project in mind over there so we'll probably clean it a bit anyway as we get to work on the new thing.
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Location: VT : Bolton Area : 82 Crag : Block Party (5.10a)
By: Seth Maciejowski When: Apr 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bring a 70m for the rap. It was nice to have on it today. Great pitch!
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Location: VT : Bolton Area : 82 Crag : Crusty By Nature (5.10d)
By: Seth Maciejowski When: Apr 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Don't blow the third clip! It's hard and a fall can be potentially damaging!
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