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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Montezuma Tower : North Ridge (5.7)
By: Sean O'Dell When: Mar 30, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: More chopped steps....JUST what the garden needs. Lets just hang a ladder from the top while we're at it. If you ever see anyone in the gardern carrying an alpenstock, please impale them on it.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Kindergarten Rock : Beginning of the End a/k/a ... (5.9+)
By: Sean O'Dell When: Mar 30, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Spooky...we all know the story with the runout to the first pin in the garden, but give me a break here...40 feet above a 40% grade full of microwave sized boulders is not exactly how most of us spell party. Call me a weenie all you want, but will someone please retrobolt the start to this thing? I won't tell if you wont...
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Twin Spires : South Ridge, White Twin Spi... (5.6)
By: Sean O'Dell When: Mar 30, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Aid climbing White Spire, huh? Yep, its official...there are now officially too many yuppies in this sport
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : The Dark Side : Lumina (5.9)
By: Sean O'Dell When: Mar 30, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pretty sustained but most of the clipping stances throw you a bone with a ledge or a big pocket. Definitely a 9 though...if this route is .8 then something like, say, Period Piece is a .6.
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Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon : Grocery Store Wall : Banana Peel (5.8)
By: Sean O'Dell When: Aug 7, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Oh yeah...did this one again here a few weeks ago - that top move is so NOT 5.8
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Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon : The Juggernaut Area : Bat Face (5.10a)
By: Sean O'Dell When: Jun 3, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you ask me, those chains are a score. Thanks, Luc.
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Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon : Wendell Spire : Noodlers Nightmare (5.5)
By: Sean O'Dell When: Jun 3, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree...not bad for a little first lead. I'd agree that 5.6 is a way generous rating...most of it would go in tennis shoes w/out thinking twice. Just watch that you don't thwack the old noggen standing up after the last move for the anchors. Turns out there's a bit of an alcove up there. Of course, I suppose I could just be a spaz...
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Menses Prow : The B.O.S.S. Method (5.8)
By: Sean O'Dell When: Jun 3, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Andy - dude, take a pill. Having a coniption over who got the FA on a 5.8 sport line is kind of like making a big deal over who the valedictorian was in summer school.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery
By: Sean O'Dell When: Jun 3, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tracy - I've never heard a name for it. I think Knapp's book lists it as "Unknown - 5.9+" but I'm not sure. For lack of a better name, my parties have always referred to it as "Plumber's Crack." Who knows, maybe we should post it that way and then it'll stick...
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Kindergarten Rock : Big Sky (5.7)
By: Sean O'Dell When: May 19, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dan - well spoken. Cutting through 'restricted' areas in the Garden is so commonplace that its tempting to ignore them all together (one might note the signs would tend to imply that one could not "legally" climb in the Cowboy Boot/Finger Face area.) However, you're absolutely right: as climbers we should set the example for conservation of these areas, and boldly trodding through a marked revegitation area reflects badly on us all. Ammend above directions to read "cut east off the main sidewalk... more >>
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon
By: Sean O'Dell When: Dec 28, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Woah now, Shane...you miss my point all together, bro. I'm totally not knocking anyone who talks about Sheep's Nose - of course it's a sick place. What I was TRYING to say was that I don't appreciate the attitude that that AC and guys like him have - putting the emphasis on what and where you climb instead of how. My beef was with his jackass comments and his alone...not anything anyone else, including you, may have said. Look at the context before you go getting all offended, man :)
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon : Silver Cascade Slab aka Hes...
By: Sean O'Dell When: Dec 13, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have yet to find a more polished piece of rock than the Cascade Slab. It seems to me as if a 5.8 here is a touch harder than 5.8 slabs elsewhere just due to the slickness of the rock. Unless you're just a seasoned slab monger, you may want to string up up one the more mellow lines (Tunnel Vision, etc) to start with just to get a feel for the rock.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon : The Pinnacle : The Men Arete (5.8)
By: Sean O'Dell When: Dec 13, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Perhaps this is a stupid question...but if Menarete and Wartime are the same route, why is one listed as 5.8 and one at 5.9+? Just curious :-)
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon
By: Sean O'Dell When: Dec 11, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: I didn't want to, but I had to throw my thimble full of gas on the fire here: if you ask me, guys like the AC above are damaging the sport. No one will argue that N. Cheyanne ranks right above my basement's south wall as a quality destination climbing area, but as the comments above have shown, it has its place. Once, climbers climbed becuase of the view of the world it grants, the mental and physical challenge, the zen of it. Now I run across more and more of these jokers who apparently climb s... more >>
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Old Stage Road : Saint Peter's Overlook : The Martyr (5.9)
By: Sean O'Dell When: Dec 9, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have to agree with Dan. While I have never personally taken the opportunity to climb this reportedly amazing [crag], I have known about it for a while and have also known it to be widely considered one of the more "hush hush" rocks in the Pikes Peak region. I'm not opposed to posting non-guidebook [crags] in principle, but it would be a sad day indeed to see Garden of the Gods-style hordes show up on Old Stage. There are several of these lesser-known areas within several hours of Colorado Spri... more >>
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Twin Spires : South Ridge, White Twin Spi... (5.6)
By: Sean O'Dell When: Nov 21, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: FYI - there's no need - in my oppinon, anyway - to shy away from this one if you don't have trad gear. I've probably led this one half a dozen times or so with various parties, and have yet to place a supplimental piece. Yes, the first piton is basically half way up the rock - however, the only 5.6 level move getting there is right off the deck - where your only pro is a spotter anyway. The rest of the terrain getting to the first pin is considerably easier (5.4, 5.3, even?). The second pin prot... more >>
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : South Gateway Rock : Silver Spoon (5.5)
By: Sean O'Dell When: Nov 21, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: My 2 cents about the direct line: I'd say its pushing 10a, or perhaps even harder if you stay out of the shallow cracks about 2/3 of the way up on the right. (I'd put it on par with Finger Direct - both in style and difficulty). Definitely worth trying while you have the TR set up - especially since its one of those rare jems that allow for a hard TR off of a relatively easy lead.
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