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Deep Throat, threading through the hole and thereb...


Member Since: Dec 18, 2004
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 1,025
Total Points: 662
Last Year: 220
Last 30 Days: 13
22 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 302 | Routes 14 | Areas 2 | Photos 77 | Page Improvements | Comments 107 | Posts 22 | Stars 80 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Cap Rock Area : Cap Rock : ... : Bush Eviction (5.9)
By: Sean When: 2 days ago

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Comments: smaller anchoring placements exist further back, if not dead set on anchoring right at the topout lip, thus fewer big cams


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Cap Rock Area : The Molar : Molar Crack (5.10b)
By: Sean When: 2 days ago

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Comments: thin to gray Alien, with gear anchor up to 0.75


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Rock : Echo Rock - East Face : Frumunda Cheese (5.7+)
By: Sean When: May 17, 2015

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Comments: fun long crack, with steep finish like adjacent Bambi Meets Godzilla but less sustained. felt like a hard 5.7, easier than Bambi Meets Godzilla which felt like a hard 5.8


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Malibu Creek State Park : Stumbling Blocks : Prow (5.9)
By: Sean When: Apr 9, 2015

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Comments: the shared anchor shuts with Monkey Mayhem have grooved mostly through both hooks now


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : Paul's Paradise : ... : Slingshot Arete (5.9)
By: Sean When: Apr 4, 2015

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Comments: did you talk to the folks at Elevation about this, or with anyone else in the know, to confirm a "missing" 3rd bolt out of 4? would think they or other locals would be warning others away from this route as well, or have fixed the problem by now, if indeed something horribly wrong. that pillar isn't that tall. when i last climbed that with the 3 lead bolts, beforehand, i got a good look of that runout from the ground, and had discussed with my partner so she ... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Mel's Diner : I Love Brian Piccolo (5.9)
By: Sean When: Apr 2, 2015

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Comments: thought this was very fun and cool, distinct from the garden variety JT cracks. handrail sequence pretty rad. athletic moves, steep positions, and good pro up the main curving dihedral. like...a sport crack. the PG starting section warrants caution, to negotiate past the big flat downward pointing flake, the only non-solid chunk of rock, with other good placements avail. still a bit heady to string all that together, but it's all there. able to scramble off to climber's left, which seemed ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Burlap Buttress : Arrow Place (5.9)
By: Sean When: Mar 19, 2015

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Comments: if doing P3 for just the first good 50 ft, the rap tree on big ledge about 20 ft left of the main crack is visible in this photo. the rap from that tree comes down onto the same anchor ledge atop P2, which extends quite far to climber's left from the P2 bolted anchor near the main crack

FYI, there are ticks around the base this time of year


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Dream of Wild Turkeys (5.10a)
By: Sean When: Mar 19, 2015

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Comments: before, had done that P4 crux finish at the end of the long P4 wide dihedral pitch, as the bolted anchors intended, with belayer 170 ft below and not able to see well, with lots of two ropes paid out. didn't fall to find out how longer a fall that would translate into, albeit a fairly clean fall. this time around, opted for a slightly shorter P4 and set gear anchor instead at about 15 ft below that bolted crux. not big ledge comfort, but semi-hanging belay with decent big footsteps, using sma... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Burlap Buttress : Unknown Route AKA Broken Ar... (5.10a)
By: Sean When: Mar 18, 2015

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Comments: gear above the two bolts do exist, but some small to tiny in soft sandstone, sometimes after steep committing sequences. no prob if solid at the grade, but ... , just, be careful. sweet finger crack up the finishing ramp with great feet, the nice reward


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : Vagmarken Hill : Vagmarken Buttress Left : Wind Tower (5.7)
By: Sean When: Mar 8, 2015

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Comments: that topside bolted rap anchor to climber's left has an upper rap chain that seems oddly too short, that it could use a few more links. it doesn't dangle down past the bulge to be level with the other lower rap ring but remains on the topside, making the rope go up and abrade around the top unnecessarily on the pull


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Geology Tour Road : Virgin Islands Area : Perpetual Motion Wall : Knick (5.10a)
By: Sean When: Mar 8, 2015

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Comments: walkoff by scrambling down the backside gap and then to climber's left. the 15 ft sling for the rap that descends the bottom portion could use reinforcing or replacing, if not into downclimbing that


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Geology Tour Road : Virgin Islands Area : Perpetual Motion Wall : Perpetual Motion (5.10d)
By: Sean When: Mar 8, 2015

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Comments: the common approach is via a steep upscramble starting across from Between A Rock And A Hard Place and wrapping up and ccw to the backside where PM is (FYI, the top of the easy downclimb crack for the PM walkoff is visible from the ground on this side). also possible to go cw via the Knick & Knack corridor, if doing those routes as well along the way, but would involve much groveling through talus tunnels and squeeze slots. the most direct and easiest way to PM is up a broad rock ramp on the S... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Geology Tour Road : Virgin Islands Area : Perpetual Motion Wall : Rain Dance (5.11a)
By: Sean When: Mar 8, 2015

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Comments: "...corridor cuts through the clump, providing the most direct route between Perpetual Motion and Star Wars Rock..."

if approaching Perpetual Motion from Star Wars Rock, the Knick & Knack corridor is not the most direct way up to Perpetual Motion, and involves much groveling through talus tunnels and squeeze slots. the steep upscramble across from Between A Rock And A Hard Place would take less time. the easiest way up to PM is actually on the SE side of the PM talus clump, up a broad rock ra... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : Lizard's Landing : Lizard's Landing-East Forma... : Sheep Scat (5.10a)
By: Sean When: Mar 7, 2015

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Comments: rap is approx 85 ft plus easy downscramble down to gully


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : Lizard's Landing : Lizard's Landing-East Forma... : Ewe Stretch (5.10b)
By: Sean When: Mar 7, 2015

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Comments: this route is to adjacent left of Mimo Provoz, tho not ordered that way. rap anchor is a single bolt with beefy rap hanger


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : Lizard's Landing : Lizard's Landing-East Forma... : Little Criminals (5.10b)
By: Sean When: Mar 7, 2015

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Comments: mostly thin to one BD red #1, plus an extra long cordelette for the anchor bolts at the very top, which have no rap chains/slings. walkoff to climber's right. go either all the way back in that direction then down via a chute, or slip down a chimney slot about halfway on RHS


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : Lizard's Landing : Lizard's Landing-East Forma... : Bighorn Bivy (5.8+)
By: Sean When: Mar 6, 2015

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Comments: topside anchor gear placements or slingable blocks about 10 ft back from the edge. rap via the bolted rap anchor atop Sheep Scat to climber's left, which is about 85 ft down to gully plus easy downscramble


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : Vagmarken Hill : Vagmarken Buttress Left : Vagmarken Buttress (5.8-)
By: Sean When: Mar 6, 2015

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Comments: if that rusty buttonhead breaks, which protects the steep crux moves pulling on crispy flakes, the resulting long runout fall would be ugly. walk off, or rap via the bolted anchor at the upper left end of the finishing shoulder, the same one near the topout of Wind Tower


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Lower Tier : Beulah's Book (5.9)
By: Sean When: Feb 14, 2015

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Comments: for the original wide P2, one C4 #4 works fine. can actually walk it along the direst stretch for many placements. don't really need a #5

had first done the P2 arete var before when climbing with a partner that happened to prefer face climbing. now that i've done both, they're both excellent, each with its own kind of exciting exposure. both well worth doing


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Cove : Echo Cove - North Side : Hang Ten (5.9)
By: Sean When: Feb 12, 2015

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Comments: one could actually hang ten pulling that initial roof instead of bypassing it. cool sequence. harder at 10b/c? but yeah, sketchy pro in suspect rock well above a good stretch of starting slab


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Little Rock Candy Mountain : Bare Leigh Legal (5.12a)
By: Sean When: Feb 11, 2015

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Comments: topside anchor consists of only bolts with hangers, with no rap chains. possible to descend via the M&M's rap anchor atop east face.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Mounds : Deep Throat (5.9) : Photo
By: Sean When: Jan 30, 2015

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Comments: getting gear handed to you after starting would be aid. should know better, and do better


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Stirrup Tank : Routes East Of Hershey Kiss : I Touch The Future (5.10c)
By: Sean When: Jan 25, 2015

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Comments: cams 0.4 to 3.5" (yellow Alien to blue BD #3). afterward, descended to climber's left, down that frontside, and back across to base of dihedral


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Lower Tier : Solar Slab Gully (5.3)
By: Sean When: Jan 23, 2015

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Comments: deeply stuck 0.5 purple X4 just above the last bolted rap anchor (or the first bolted anchor on the way up), as of 20 Jan 2015. cam sling visible. able to get at trigger handles, but lobes too solidly wedged in place. would prob require a crowbar


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Lower Tier : Beulah's Book (5.9)
By: Sean When: Jan 21, 2015

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Comments: for the P2 arete variation, held off on placing the C4 #4 just to see if that would really be needed. got to the top of that pitch still toting it. tho one could place a #4, there are usu other size pro avail nearby. wouldn't bring a #4 next time for the P2 arete var. rack of doubles to #2 plus one #3 would suffice. all the lighter if continuing up Solar Slab


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