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Deep Throat, threading through the hole and thereby using the rock itself as the first pro.  Jan 2013.


Member Since: Dec 18, 2004
Last Visit: moments ago
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Point Rank: # 1,218
Total Points: 517
Last Year: 212
Last 30 Days: 18
19 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Sean been climbing?










Contributions


All 232 | Routes 13 | Areas 2 | Photos 56 | Page Improvements | Comments 77 | Posts 8 | Stars 76 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : Rattlesnake Buttress : Back Up Singers (5.8)
By: Sean When: 21 hours ago

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Comments: pro to 2.5" adequate. didn't really need #3 blue Camalot


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : Rattlesnake Buttress : Taken for Granite (5.8-)
By: Sean When: 1 day ago

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Comments: near the top, traversed left onto the last big shoulder ledge before the top, placed a high piece to protect the second, then down easy terrain to the visible bolted rap anchor of Eureka

rap with one 70m rope, with about 20 ft on each strand to spare, so looks like a 60m would work too but involves an easy wide slot downclimb from an elevated ledge back down to the base ledge


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Jumbo Rock Area : Zebra Cliffs : Zebra Cliffs East Face : Around The World (5.10b)
By: Sean When: Sep 30, 2014

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Comments: can get up to the elevated start via easy scramble up the 2nd rocky gully to climber's left, the one with Cut Thin To Win at its bottom. that's also the most convenient easy descent for this part of the east face. so, not a big must to climb Such A Line first, though that's a great route, but which wouldn't require some of the gear needed for Around The World, esp if you want to pare down the lead rack for Such A Line


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Cardinal Pinnacle : Cucumbers (5.10a/b)
By: Sean When: Sep 15, 2014

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Comments: at the start of Cucumbers dihedral, had more faith in the microstoppers than the tiny cam "placement" after fiddling all in


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Rock Creek : Patricia Bowl : ... : Boi-oi-oi-ing! (5.10a)
By: Sean When: Sep 15, 2014

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Comments: P1 anchor for the last rap down consists of bolted beefy rap hangers, to clarify


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear South : Black Bluff : ... : Best of Both Worlds (5.7)
By: Sean When: Sep 8, 2014

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Comments: gear anchor atop the last big ledge on the main wall, near the top, but quite far left of the Aurora Borealis anchor. easy traverse to climber's left to get onto the topside walkoff


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear South : Black Bluff : ... : Social D (5.10b)
By: Sean When: Sep 7, 2014

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Comments: finishing left to the bolted anchor of Arctic Circle Jerk would be the most convenient. but if that's busy, could anchor off big tree, to set up TR with long slings, or topside belay and then downclimb to Black Bart bolted rap anchor or walk off


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Crags : ... : PSOM Pinnacle (5.8)
By: Sean When: Sep 2, 2014

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Comments: one long rap from pinnacle topside anchor with two joined 70 m ropes just makes it back down to the base, bec our party of 3 happened to have two ropes


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Snake Dike (5.7 R) : Photo
By: Sean When: Jul 31, 2014

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Comments: yup, must've been


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Point Dume : South Face Left (5.10)
By: Sean When: Jul 30, 2014

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Comments: Anchor bolts atop this route also no longer exist.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Point Dume : South Face Right (5.10a)
By: Sean When: Jul 30, 2014

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Comments: Topside bolted anchor for this route no longer exits. Chopped apparently, but without patching up, with remnants of cut bolt shafts and sleeves still visible.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Center (Flintst... : Human Fright (5.10a)
By: Sean When: Jul 22, 2014

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Comments: at the end of P2 big dihedral, opted for the cool traverse to climber's right to the P2 bolted rap anchor of Fred. then two raps with one 60 m rope down Fred. first rap about 90 ft down and angling to climber's left, to the Fred P1 bolted rap anchor located on face right of and slightly above Human Fright P1 anchor. last rap just long enough by again angling to climber's left back onto the starting tree ledge


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Little Egypt : Frontier Left : Classic Crack (5.9)
By: Sean When: May 27, 2014

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Comments: for the gear anchor, there's also a BD red #1 placement in a dish with a pinching lower lip slot, located to climber's right of the crack at the top. could get away with anchoring using that and two BD blue #3's, but at least one #4 would work better. helpful to have a #4 to walk up the burly v-slot anyway, to be backcleaned to save for the topside anchor


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Mini Crag : Bloom County (5.6)
By: Sean When: Apr 28, 2014

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Comments: optional 5" piece for the slanting awkward wide finish (tippy BD #4 C4 would barely place), as in the upper 1/3 of the route becomes unprotected without the #5


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Mini Crag : Opus Dihedral (5.9) : Photo
By: Sean When: Apr 28, 2014

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Comments: wince-free handjamming right there! perfect hands!!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Optimator : Annunaki (5.11c)
By: Sean When: Apr 21, 2014

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Comments: name plague at the base reads "Annunaki" as opposed to "Anunnaki" in the books; right anchor bolt still loose


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Roadside Rocks : Bush Dome : Kate's Bush (5.8)
By: Sean When: Mar 24, 2014

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Comments: doable in one long pitch. thought the hardest move was just above the starting ledge. above the 2nd pitch ledge, possible to chimney up quite a ways before needing to place the next piece. the higher that next piece goes in, the less rope drag


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Roadside Rocks : Bush Dome : Chestwig (5.10a)
By: Sean When: Mar 24, 2014

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Comments: great climb, engaging, exciting. guidebook suggested pro to 3". racked doubles from black Alien up to red BD #1, plus one yellow #2 and one blue #3, to do in one long pitch. did not place the #2 and #3. better off to instead have a third 0.4, 0.5, and 0.75, which together should still be lighter than the #2 and #3


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Black Orpheus Amphitheater : Black Orpheus (5.9+)
By: Sean When: Mar 10, 2014

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Comments: morning shade for P1-P3, sun for the P4-P7 simul and P8, then back into shade cast by the massive dihedral for P9-P11, on Mar 8 with high of 68F

after topping out, we scrambled all the way up to and through the cool little walk-through arch to the big headwall. then down the gully to climber's left, leading to a short chimney that could be downclimbed or rapped. then cairns led us to the two consecutive raps (three raps now if counting the previous chimney rap) as described in the Supertopo g... more >>


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Mount Carmel Tunnel : Ataxia Tower : Ashtar Command (5.9)
By: Sean When: Mar 6, 2014

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Comments: great climb. placed up to one BD #1 for P1 (didn't place any stoppers; next time won't bother with them). P2 started with a 0.5 cam halfway to the first bolt, then clipped that first bolt and 11 others, for a total of 12 bolt clips on P2 (having skipped one of the two closely bolted ones mentioned above and counting the last topside bolt protecting the topout)


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Real Hidden Valley Vicinity : Houser Buttress Area : ... : All Booked Up (5.7)
By: Sean When: Jan 28, 2014

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Comments: Having previously done the heinous scramble up from Houser's Gully and from inside RHV via the left end of Solosby Wall, the easiest way turned out to be via the approach for Little Fun Crags. Take the outside trail from RHV parking toward Houser Buttress. Just beyond the point downslope from Little Fun Crags, find a faint but decent trail passing the right side of a big boulder. After shortly going up a boulder stack with cairn, continue stepping up the steep hillside, with no need to tunnel... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Cyclops Rock : Spaghetti & Chili (5.7)
By: Sean When: Jan 14, 2014

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Comments: Anchor bolts have hangers only, as in no rap rings or chains. Can clip and set up TR, but last person has to walk off, which is easiest across the top to the SE side and down.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Geology Tour Road : Virgin Islands Area : Star Wars Rock : Thumbs Down Left (5.9)
By: Sean When: Jan 1, 2014

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Comments: didn't notice the thumbs down left bit. too busy enjoying the very unique cross-arms handjamming, what with there being two handcracks up that second dihedral, one up each side and at 90 degs to each other. very cool


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Corona/Dos Equis Wall : Scare Way (5.10b)
By: Sean When: Dec 7, 2013

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Comments: Quality scare up the slanting flare. Fantastic exposure finishing up and left over roof via bomber jams and jugs.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : King Otto's Castle : Don Genaro Crack (5.10a)
By: Sean When: Nov 21, 2013

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Comments: very fun crack. good and plentiful pro. btw, the last juggy plate at the top of the crack flexes. didn't feel that on the lead up, but saw while belaying on top, when second pulled on that. pretty key exit hold. careful on the pull


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