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Deep Throat, threading through the hole and thereb...


Member Since: Dec 18, 2004
Last Visit: 52 mins ago
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Point Rank: # 1,118
Total Points: 575
Last Year: 210
Last 30 Days: 22
20 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 251 | Routes 13 | Areas 2 | Photos 66 | Page Improvements | Comments 85 | Posts 9 | Stars 76 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Lower Tier : Solar Slab Gully (5.3)
By: Sean When: 2 days ago

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Comments: deeply stuck 0.5 purple X4 just above the last bolted rap anchor (or the first bolted anchor on the way up), as of 20 Jan 2015. cam sling visible. able to get at trigger handles, but lobes too solidly wedged in place. would prob require a crowbar


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Lower Tier : Beulah's Book (5.9)
By: Sean When: 4 days ago

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Comments: for the P2 arete variation, held off on placing the BD #4 just to see if that would really be needed. got to the top of that pitch still toting it. tho one could place a #4, there are usu other size pro avail nearby. wouldn't bring a #4 next time for the P2 arete var. rack of doubles to #2 plus one #3 would suffice


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : The Friar and Byrd Pinnacle : Red Zinger (5.10+)
By: Sean When: 6 days ago

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Comments: able to rap with a 70 from the P2 rap slings under the large roof all the way down to the base (bypassing the rap anchor atop P1), with about 5 ft to spare on each strand


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : Corral Wall : ... : Czech Crack (5.10a)
By: Sean When: Jan 5, 2015

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Comments: pro to one blue BD #3. no beehive up near anchor as of 4 Jan 2015


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : Corral Wall : ... : Chuck Wagon Crack (5.8+ R)
By: Sean When: Jan 5, 2015

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Comments: if opting to do just the 5.7 first pitch, be aware that the two-bolt anchor atop Honky Justice no longer has any slings or rap link/rings, as of 4 Jan 2015. the two anchor bolts and their hangers are still there. just add slings and link for the rap. there's no bolted rap anchor to the immediate right, but possible to traverse up and far to climber's right to the bolted rap anchor of Six-Gun By My Side


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : Corral Wall : ... : Honky Justice (5.12a/b)
By: Sean When: Jan 5, 2015

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Comments: this route's two-bolt anchor no longer has any slings or rap rings, as of 4 Jan 2015. the two anchor bolts and their hangers are still there. just add slings and links for the rap. also possible to traverse up and to climber's right to the bolted rap anchor of Six-Gun By My Side


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Banana Cracks : Left Banana Crack (5.10c)
By: Sean When: Dec 28, 2014

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Comments: there's a deeply stuck upside-down 0.75 C4 just before the roof lip, as of 27 Dec 2014


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Outhouse Rock : Outhouse Rock - West Face : Outhouse Flake (5.4 R)
By: Sean When: Dec 16, 2014

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Comments: a #6 can protect to about halfway up the wide, or just do without. 0.5-3.5" cams would do for a piece before the wide, at its end, and the topside gear anchor


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Lloyd's Rock : Micronesia (5.10d)
By: Sean When: Nov 26, 2014

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Comments: bottom right-slanting crux protectable with thinner-than-tips gear. could actually sew it up, but prob wouldn't want to tinker for too long


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Mel's Diner : Kickin' Bach (5.9)
By: Sean When: Nov 26, 2014

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Comments: the oblong pillar feature (which provides the crucial initial jug) isn't fully attached to the wall. it flexes. could break off with a heavy pull, which would also result in the instant disintegration of that one slot for the potential first piece that could be placed from the starting ledge


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : Rattlesnake Buttress : Taken for Granite (5.8-)
By: Sean When: Oct 20, 2014

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Comments: near the top, traversed left onto the last big shoulder slope before the top, placed a high piece to protect the second, then down easy terrain to the visible bolted rap anchor of Eureka

rapped with one 70m rope, with about 20 ft on each strand to spare, so looks like a 60m would work too


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Jumbo Rock Area : Zebra Cliffs : Zebra Cliffs East Face : Around The World (5.10b)
By: Sean When: Sep 30, 2014

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Comments: can get up to the elevated start via easy scramble up the 2nd rocky gully to climber's left, the one with Cut Thin To Win at its bottom. that's also the most convenient easy descent for this part of the east face. so, not a big must to climb Such A Line first, though that's a great route, but which wouldn't require some of the gear needed for Around The World, esp if you want to pare down the lead rack for Such A Line


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Cardinal Pinnacle : Cucumbers (5.10a/b)
By: Sean When: Sep 15, 2014

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Comments: at the start of Cucumbers dihedral, had more faith in the microstoppers than the tiny cam "placement" after fiddling all in


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Rock Creek : Patricia Bowl : ... : Boi-oi-oi-ing! (5.10a)
By: Sean When: Sep 15, 2014

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Comments: P1 anchor for the last rap down consists of bolted beefy rap hangers, to clarify


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear South : Black Bluff : ... : Best of Both Worlds (5.7)
By: Sean When: Sep 8, 2014

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Comments: gear anchor atop the last big ledge on the main wall, near the top, but quite far left of the Aurora Borealis anchor. easy traverse to climber's left to get onto the topside walkoff


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear South : Black Bluff : ... : Social D (5.10b)
By: Sean When: Sep 7, 2014

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Comments: finishing left to the bolted anchor of Arctic Circle Jerk would be the most convenient. but if that's busy, could anchor off big tree, to set up TR with long slings, or topside belay and then downclimb to Black Bart bolted rap anchor or walk off


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Crags : ... : PSOM Pinnacle (5.8)
By: Sean When: Sep 2, 2014

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Comments: one long rap from pinnacle topside anchor with two joined 70 m ropes just makes it back down to the base, bec our party of 3 happened to have two ropes


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Snake Dike (5.7 R) : Photo
By: Sean When: Jul 31, 2014

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Comments: yup, must've been


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Point Dume : South Face Left (5.10)
By: Sean When: Jul 30, 2014

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Comments: Anchor bolts atop this route also no longer exist.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Point Dume : South Face Right (5.10a)
By: Sean When: Jul 30, 2014

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Comments: Topside bolted anchor for this route no longer exits. Chopped apparently, but without patching up, with remnants of cut bolt shafts and sleeves still visible.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Center (Flintst... : Human Fright (5.10a)
By: Sean When: Jul 22, 2014

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Comments: at the end of P2 big dihedral, opted for the cool traverse to climber's right to the P2 bolted rap anchor of Fred. then two raps with one 60 m rope down Fred. first rap about 90 ft down and angling to climber's left, to the Fred P1 bolted rap anchor located on face right of and slightly above Human Fright P1 anchor. last rap just long enough by again angling to climber's left back onto the starting tree ledge


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Little Egypt : Frontier Left : Classic Crack (5.9)
By: Sean When: May 27, 2014

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Comments: for the gear anchor, there's also a BD red #1 placement in a dish with a pinching lower lip slot, located to climber's right of the crack at the top. could get away with anchoring using that and two BD blue #3's, but at least one #4 would work better. helpful to have a #4 to walk up the burly v-slot anyway, to be backcleaned to save for the topside anchor


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Mini Crag : Bloom County (5.6)
By: Sean When: Apr 28, 2014

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Comments: optional 5" piece for the slanting awkward wide finish (tippy BD #4 C4 would barely place), as in the upper 1/3 of the route becomes unprotected without the #5


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Mini Crag : Opus Dihedral (5.9) : Photo
By: Sean When: Apr 28, 2014

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Comments: wince-free handjamming right there! perfect hands!!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Optimator : Annunaki (5.11c)
By: Sean When: Apr 21, 2014

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Comments: name plague at the base reads "Annunaki" as opposed to "Anunnaki" in the books; right anchor bolt still loose


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