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Deep Throat, threading through the hole and thereby using the rock itself as the first pro.  Jan 2013.


Member Since: Dec 18, 2004
Last Visit: 6 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 1,271
Total Points: 471
Last Year: 193
Last 30 Days: 6
18 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 212 | Routes 11 | Areas 2 | Photos 53 | Page Improvments | Comments 66 | Posts 6 | Stars 74 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Center (Flintst... : Human Fright (5.10a)
By: Sean When: Jul 22, 2014

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Comments: at the end of P2 big dihedral, opted for the cool traverse to climber's right to the P2 bolted rap anchor of Fred. then two raps with one 60 m rope down Fred. first rap about 90 ft down and angling to climber's left, to the Fred P1 bolted rap anchor located on face right of and slightly above Human Fright P1 anchor. last rap just long enough by again angling to climber's left back onto the starting tree ledge


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Little Egypt : Frontier Left : Classic Crack (5.9)
By: Sean When: May 27, 2014

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Comments: for the gear anchor, there's also a BD red #1 placement in a dish with a pinching lower lip slot, located to climber's right of the crack at the top. could get away with anchoring using that and two BD blue #3's, but at least one #4 would work better. helpful to have a #4 to walk up the burly v-slot anyway, to be backcleaned to save for the topside anchor


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Mini Crag : Bloom County (5.6)
By: Sean When: Apr 28, 2014

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Comments: optional 5" piece for the slanting awkward wide finish (tippy BD #4 C4 would barely place), as in the upper 1/3 of the route becomes unprotected without the #5


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Mini Crag : Opus Dihedral (5.9) : Photo
By: Sean When: Apr 28, 2014

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Comments: wince-free handjamming right there! perfect hands!!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Optimator : Annunaki (5.11c)
By: Sean When: Apr 21, 2014

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Comments: name plague at the base reads "Annunaki" as opposed to "Anunnaki" in the books
right anchor bolt still loose


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Roadside Rocks : Bush Dome : Kate's Bush (5.8)
By: Sean When: Mar 24, 2014

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Comments: doable in one long pitch. thought the hardest move was just above the starting ledge. above the 2nd pitch ledge, possible to chimney up quite a ways before needing to place the next piece. the higher that next piece goes in, the less rope drag


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Roadside Rocks : Bush Dome : Chestwig (5.10a)
By: Sean When: Mar 24, 2014

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Comments: great climb, engaging, exciting. guidebook suggested pro to 3". racked doubles from black Alien up to red BD #1, plus one yellow #2 and one blue #3, to do in one long pitch. did not place the #2 and #3. better off to instead have a third 0.4, 0.5, and 0.75, which together should still be lighter than the #2 and #3


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Black Orpheus Amphitheater : Black Orpheus (5.9+)
By: Sean When: Mar 10, 2014

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Comments: morning shade for P1-P3, sun for the P4-P7 simul and P8, then back into shade cast by the massive dihedral for P9-P11, on Mar 8 with high of 68F

after topping out, we scrambled all the way up to and through the cool little walk-through arch to the big headwall. then down the gully to climber's left, leading to a short chimney that could be downclimbed or rapped. then cairns led us to the two consecutive raps (three raps now if counting the previous chimney rap) as described in the Supertopo g... more >>


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Mount Carmel Tunnel : Ataxia Tower : Ashtar Command (5.9)
By: Sean When: Mar 6, 2014

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Comments: great climb. placed up to one BD #1 for P1 (didn't place any stoppers; next time won't bother with them). P2 started with a 0.5 cam halfway to the first bolt, then clipped that first bolt and 11 others, for a total of 12 bolt clips on P2 (having skipped one of the two closely bolted ones mentioned above and counting the last topside bolt protecting the topout)


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Real Hidden Valley Vicinity : Houser Buttress Area : ... : All Booked Up (5.7)
By: Sean When: Jan 28, 2014

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Comments: Having previously done the heinous scramble up from Houser's Gully and from inside RHV via the left end of Solosby Wall, the easiest way turned out to be via the approach for Little Fun Crags. Take the outside trail from RHV parking toward Houser Buttress. Just beyond the point downslope from Little Fun Crags, find a faint but decent trail passing the right side of a big boulder. After shortly going up a boulder stack with cairn, continue stepping up the steep hillside, with no need to tunnel... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Cyclops Rock : Spaghetti & Chili (5.7)
By: Sean When: Jan 14, 2014

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Comments: Anchor bolts have hangers only, as in no rap rings or chains. Can clip and set up TR, but last person has to walk off, which is easiest across the top to the SE side and down.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Geology Tour Road : Virgin Islands Area : Star Wars Rock : Thumbs Down Left (5.9)
By: Sean When: Jan 1, 2014

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Comments: didn't notice the thumbs down left bit. too busy enjoying the very unique cross-arms handjamming, what with there being two handcracks up that second dihedral, one up each side and at 90 degs to each other. very cool


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Corona/Dos Equis Wall : Scare Way (5.10b)
By: Sean When: Dec 7, 2013

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Comments: Quality scare up the slanting flare. Fantastic exposure finishing up and left over roof via bomber jams and jugs.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : King Otto's Castle : Don Genaro Crack (5.10a)
By: Sean When: Nov 21, 2013

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Comments: very fun crack. good and plentiful pro. btw, the last juggy plate at the top of the crack flexes. didn't feel that on the lead up, but saw while belaying on top, when second pulled on that. pretty key exit hold. careful on the pull


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Cowlick Crag : Cow Lick Co. Crag (5.7)
By: Sean When: Nov 5, 2013

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Comments: 6 bolts, as of 4 Nov 2013, leading up to an anchor dangling rap chains. Another anchor higher on the flat topside, in-line with the mentioned one.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : The Valley of Kings : ... : It's Good To Be King (5.8)
By: Sean When: Oct 28, 2013

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Comments: Rap slings with two biners on the big tree to climber's right of topout, accessed via a wide crack onto that shoulder with the tree. A 60 m rope leads down to a big ledge with easy downclimb, which could be rapped past with a 70.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Ragged Edges Area : Ragged Edges (5.8)
By: Sean When: Sep 30, 2013

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Comments: Gear anchor available at two of the horizontal ledges at topout, finishing right of the crack. This would give the option of not needing to anchor way back at the tree where the crack levels and ends, lessen the possibility of rope flossing into a top cam and getting stuck, and would make a 60 m rope plenty long enough to do the whole climb in one pitch.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Mounds : Deep Throat (5.9) : Photo
By: Sean When: Sep 27, 2013

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Comments: no noticeable drag, placing two slung pieces up the crack; rest of toted gear used for topside anchor. not much rope abrasion from the seconding either, since most wouldn't fall off the hole before threading through


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : South Face : Open Book Area : Mechanic's Route (5.8 R)
By: Sean When: Sep 24, 2013

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Comments: Engaging climbing, esp after clipping pin and across the exhilarating P1 traverse, soon rewarded with nice juggy crack up to anchor ledge. Exciting P2 out onto knobby face. Not all the knobby bulges as positive as one might hope, hahaha. As for the one most slingable knob, a slipknot with thin dyneema cinched barely positively in place. Sure, slingable, but to actually stay put catching a sizable fall, prob fairly low chance of that. With modern gear, another marginal pro possible nearby. ... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Phobos/Diemos Cliff : Phobos (5.9+)
By: Sean When: Sep 19, 2013

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Comments: P2 anchor could be set at a slingable thread-through column at the highest part of that big belay ledge, with a 0.5" placement available to supplement, which could allow one to do without the extra 1.5-3" anchoring gear as indicated by SuperTopo.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Lotta Balls Wall : Black Magic (5.8)
By: Sean When: Aug 19, 2013

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Comments: Very fun P1 opening zig-zag sequences, finishing with the rightward handrail traverse above second bolt. Past the 3rd bolt near the top of that first pitch, the P1 anchor is now just the one bolt and tad remnants in the thread-thru to its right. Readily available gear placement(s) to further supplement. At the P2 bolted anchor, the P3 roof bolt can easily be spotted. Possible to lose sight of that bolt once up close at the roof, but the line of holds should be obvious. With a 70, able to st... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Lotta Balls Wall : Lotta Balls (5.8)
By: Sean When: Aug 19, 2013

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Comments: Have confirmed on Sat after Black Magic that there's no 3rd rap anchor at last ledge with tree nor anywhere else along the extra long second rap.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Necromancer Wall : Fold Out (5.8)
By: Sean When: Aug 19, 2013

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Comments: yup, can rap from P1 anchor back down to 6-ft starting ledge with a 70, with about 3 ft to spare. easy scramble up or down on the far right side of that 6-ft starting ledge


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Pothole Dome : Pot Luck (5.11a)
By: Sean When: Jul 15, 2013

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Comments: rack of singles to 3.5", if desiring a big first piece; otherwise 1.5" and smaller rest of way up. note the expansion behind the lip at many spots of this irregular jagged crack. anchor bolts with only hangers just above the lip, with no rap rings/chains. natural anchor available at topout ledge above. walkoff to climber's right and toward backside, to circle clockwise down back to base


Location: NV : Red Rock : White Rock Spring : Angel Food Wall : Group Therapy (5.7)
By: Sean When: May 12, 2013

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Comments: done in 4 pitches with a 70, on Sun 5/5/2013, with morning sun much of the way. did P1 as is, linked P2 and P3, linked P4 and P5 to base of big roof, then up and over big roof stretching rope to the top. both the huge roof and P2 wide crack are super juggy fun


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