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Location: NV : Red Rock : White Rock Spring : Angel Food Wall : Group Therapy (5.7)
By: Sean When: May 12, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: done in 4 pitches with a 70, on Sun 5/5/2013, with morning sun much of the way. did P1 as is, linked P2 and P3, linked P4 and P5 to base of big roof, then up and over big roof stretching rope to the top. both the huge roof and P2 wide crack are super juggy fun
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Lotta Balls Wall : Dodgeball (5.7)
By: Sean When: May 7, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent route, with many stretches of amazing climbing and exposure.
We skipped the intended P1 belay on the bushy ledge at the base of the first dihedral. That ledge looked overgrown. Instead continued halfway up that first dihedral to belay in a notch just below the perched block, to fully enjoy looking up at that perched dodgeball, for a ~200 ft first pitch. Our P2 went up past the perched block, onto the long stretch of splitter hands, then up the improbable face, setting P2 anchor at ... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : White Rock Spring : Angel Food Wall : Tunnel Vision (5.7)
By: Sean When: May 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: got on this to enjoy the wide P3. belayed at a more comfortable ledge about 15 ft below the P2 anchor bolts. didn't find the P3 initial section "smooth" like books or some said. nice sequence of features to keep going up on, not abundant but just enough. brought two #4's but ended up not needing to stretch into main crack to place them. adequate pro up to one blue Camalot within arm's length just left of crack for the upper half of that wide stretch. fun roof at start of P4 too, adventurou... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Upper Tier : Solar Slab (5.6)
By: Sean When: Apr 13, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Intermediate rap anchor between P4 and P1 anchors mentioned by Steve now consists of solid hardware.
Also, rope got stuck on the pull after the rap from the boulder slings atop P6 down to P4 anchor, in a hard-to-avoid crack pinch (beware), while trying to bypass a super slow group on reg rap route. Re-led on other end of almost-down rope, cleared jam, cleaned while downclimbed. Rapped JV to bypass same slow group congesting Solar Slab Gully, good on all pulls.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Out of Control area : Out of Control (5.10c)
By: Sean When: Apr 12, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Handren book indicated triples of 1" to 3" plus a 4" piece. Just those. Brought up two 0.75 pieces anyway from eyeing the crack from ground. The crux of this ascent was remaining calm and unresentful while bumping up the lone red Link Cam for dreadful long stretches of fingers, trying not to think about the huge 50 ft air if the bumping goes awry with a peel off. Like some have mentioned, would add one 0.4 (yellow Alien), three 0.5 (red Alien), and a third 0.75 piece. Could also pare down to ei... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Dark Shadows (5.8)
By: Sean When: Apr 12, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Possible to rap from top of P4 with a 70 in three raps, if comfortable with finishing via easy downclimbing. First rap down to Chasing Shadows anchor, then to Dark Shadows P2 anchor, and from there down to the easy face just below P1 first bolt. Second the comment about clipping that first bolt and using that to keep rope dry when pulling. Linkable P1 and P2. Amazing P3 and P4.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Lotta Balls Wall : Lotta Balls (5.8)
By: Sean When: Apr 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Also stretched a 70m on P3 to the summit, just long enough.
Pro to 3" (one blue Camalot), as in the recommended #4 not really needed.
P1 and P2 anchors are both bolted.
The descent no longer seems to consist of 3 short raps. Encountered only two tree slings on the raps down. The last of the two is long and doesn't quite reach the final landing ledge using one 70 (about 10 ft short), but does reach a downclimbable block. There's a solid tree that could serve as intermediate rap anchor... more >>
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Ellsmere Island : Aftermath (5.10a)
By: Sean When: Apr 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: a favorite. wild adventure, if into that. improbable moves with great exposure
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Little Rock Candy Mountain : M & M's Peanut (5.10a)
By: Sean When: Mar 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: merely said this and the adjacent route are 47 ft tall (both now updated from 35 ft to 50 ft by someone btw), known fairly precisely bec our 60 was a few ft short of midpt after lowering on one, that it'd therefore be possible to lead both routes at same time and be lowered with one 60. didn't urge or demand someone to do it. thanks for the props and recognition, tho wasn't looking for that
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Little Rock Candy Mountain : M & M's Peanut (5.10a)
By: Sean When: Mar 20, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: not true. rubbing tummy and patting head is definitely not more interesting than the PDLL4760BBB. what's the longest you've rubbed and patted, Murf? 30 sec? a whole min? see, not that interesting. and the latter is quite safe with two belayers. even with one belayer, that too could be made safe by anchoring the one belayer and by having a second person kneel in front of that belayer and perform part of the task on one of the devices dangling from the standing belayer's crotch
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Little Rock Candy Mountain : M & M's Peanut (5.10a)
By: Sean When: Mar 19, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Both M&M's Peanut and M&M's Plain approx 47 ft tall, bec possible to lead both routes with a leader tied in to each end of one 60 m rope and afterward have just enough rope to simultaneously lower both leaders back down to base.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Little Rock Candy Mountain : M & Ms Plain (5.9)
By: Sean When: Mar 19, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Readily protectable. Fun and interesting crux, like a more advanced version of the Toejam crux, but now vertical. Solid toejams to assist subpar finger slots to continue to move body up and stretch for the first of the upper wall jugs.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Dairy Queen Wall : Dairy Queen Wall - Left Sid... : Norm (5.10a)
By: Sean When: Mar 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yellow Alien or slightly smaller (0.5" would be too big) for the downward pointing flake, next to the fixed pin, to protect the 1st bolt clip.
Solid black Alien near top of diagonal feature above 2nd bolt, and a marginal BD #4 stopper placed edgewise just before clipping the 3rd bolt.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Little Rock Candy Mountain : Flake Hickey (5.7)
By: Sean When: Mar 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun variation finish continuing left and up the overhanging thin dihedral. Great feet, grainy finger cranking up and over to the top. Felt like 5.10a or so. To descend, step over gap to climber's right to the bolted rap anchor atop M&M's Plain.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : Lost Eye to the Moon : Eye For an Eye (5.7)
By: Sean When: Feb 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Clipped hanger-equipped P1 2nd bolt on 2/16/2013.
The second pitch anchor, as depicted in the new Bishop Area Rock Climbs and in topo photo here, can clearly be seen from the ground. Only 3 bolts on P2 lead to that anchor actually, as in one doesn't cross the highest crack climbing up and right onto the slab face with 4 more bolts that lead to the summit. A subtle bulge obscures the view of this P2 anchor the whole way once one is on the route. Instead of saying either 3 bolts to that lower ... more >>
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Feudal Wall : ... : California Crack (5.11a)
By: Sean When: Feb 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Going with just that first sling and placing next at the knee bar would be runout. Danger not so much from decking but from the possible big penji fall smacking leader rightward back against the side of the cave, as one local did a long while ago and broke his back (full recovery). An "inside out" small hex (or big stopper) instead for the first pro at mentioned spot could be placed quicker on the go, without pre-placing.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Mounds : Behind the Green Door (5.10d)
By: Sean When: Feb 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Route harder than 10d now. The positive tip of the lowest part of the flake above the second bolt had broken off for some time, which used to be the key hold to initiate the crux sequence. Route still goes, but felt harder at about 11a/b.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Oyster Bar Area : Target Rock : ... : Maid Marion (5.9+ R)
By: Sean When: Jan 21, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: thanks, updated
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Campfire Crag : ... : The Fetus (5.10a/b)
By: Sean When: Dec 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: direct start up base face off hornish rail, without using low backwall; felt about 5.10b/c, tenuous; at 5'8 with +2 ape index
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Old Woman : The Old Woman - East Face : Bearded Cabbage (5.10c)
By: Sean When: Dec 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: gear anchor available in horizontal crack down and right from common bolted rap anchor (used by multiple other routes), esp if multiple persons will follow/TR. easy terrain btwn gear anchor and bolted rap anchor
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : Paul's Paradise : ... : Slingshot Arete (5.9)
By: Sean When: Nov 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: 3 bolts (not 4) to Mussy hooks
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : Paul's Paradise : ... : Haf & Haf (5.7)
By: Sean When: Nov 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: pro to 0.75 (green Camalot)
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Banana Cracks : Right Banana Crack (5.11a) : Photo
By: Sean When: Mar 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: hey, that's me and my climbing partner on Right Banana. thanks for the shot!
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Banana Cracks : Right Banana Crack (5.11a)
By: Sean When: Mar 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: thank you, Russ! awesome of you.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Power Wall : Flower Power (5.10)
By: Sean When: Oct 28, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: yes, a 70 m is just long enough to lower leader or to rap down, despite old book listing height as 160 ft and the new edition saying 130 ft
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