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Slot Machine in Squamish


Member Since: Sep 24, 2012
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact Sean Stoops


Point Rank: # 9,218
Total Points: 28
Last Year: 23
Last 30 Days: 1
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Sean Stoops been climbing?










Contributions


All 52 | Routes | Areas | Photos 4 | Page Improvements | Comments 8 | Posts 8 | Stars 31 | Ratings 1
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Magic mountain under a golden sunset on Sept 17th,...

Magic mountain under a golden sunset on Sept 17th, 2014.

NV : Red Rock : ... : Magic Mountain

Sep 17, 2014

View of the storms blowing through Castle Valley f...

View of the storms blowing through Castle Valley from the top of Castleton Tower.

UT : Moab Area : ... : Castleton Tower

Aug 24, 2014

Waiting for the storms to pass so we can start up ...

Waiting for the storms to pass so we can start up North Chimney.

UT : Moab Area : ... : Castleton Tower

Aug 24, 2014

Slot Machine in Squamish

Slot Machine in Squamish

Sean Stoops : Profile

Nov 7, 2013

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Jackrabbit Buttress : The Black Pearl (5.9)
By: Sean Stoops When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Take up a 20ft+ piece of webbing for the rap anchor anytime you climb this. We got up there to find two very brittle cords for the anchor. You could literally break them in half by a little bit of flexing! We made a new anchor with rope, but it's very exposed and thus weathers quickly.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Sandy Corridor : Chrysler Crack (5.9)
By: Sean Stoops When: Oct 14, 2014

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Comments: Tips on approach, anchor, descent:

- If you plan to lead it, the standard approach is alright. You'll have a couple 5th class moves for about a body length, but not terrible. Or consider Tyson's approach in the link below which takes you to the summit, then rap to the base using the bolts on top.

- If you plan to top rope it, definitely consider doing the approach Tyson mentions in the link below then rapping into the base. Getting to the top via the walk off left is very sketchy and exposed. ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Red Springs Rock Lower Tier : Hans Soloing (5.4)
By: Sean Stoops When: Oct 13, 2014

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Comments: For a beginner, I'd find somewhere else with higher quality rock. Placements here can definitely be found, but I'd say it's a bit challenging to protect given most horizontal cracks are crumbly.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Little Springs Crag : Super Glide (5.9+)
By: Sean Stoops When: Oct 13, 2014

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Comments: We didn't have the gear to protect this, so we just climbed Red Ships of Spain, set a top rope, then used I think a #2 or 3 to redirect to the top of this route.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Burlap Buttress : Unknown Route AKA Broken Ar... (5.10a)
By: Sean Stoops When: Oct 7, 2014

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Comments: We started up this, but ended up on a variation where you stay left at the mini-roof. We rapped off this anchor. I saw a couple more bolts continuing up the crack above then into the broken varnish further up. I think we concluded this left version may be a touch stiffer than 10a.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Romper Room : Kindergarten Cop (5.7+)
By: Sean Stoops When: Oct 7, 2014

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Comments: Great route, but doesn't take much in the way of trad gear. I felt like I was sport climbing with a full rack. =) I think I used a couple pieces in the .3-.75 range and slung a couple chicken heads. As everyone else says, the anchors sneak up on you. Keep an eye our right for them!

We did this with a single 70m with a bunch of cordelette tied together on one end for a pull cord.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Red Springs Rock Lower Tier : Carrie Fissure (5.9)
By: Sean Stoops When: Oct 7, 2014

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Comments: Protected this fine without anything too tiny. Single set of cams from 0.1-2 I think. Also slung some chicken heads on the way up. Built the anchor up top just like Nick, by slinging two fat chicken heads. Walk off back then left down the gully.


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : Schoolhouse Rock : Victim of Gravity (5.10a PG13)
By: Sean Stoops When: Apr 8, 2014

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Comments: I agree with Bowens, definitely worth a repeat. It has a pretty cool mix of styles for such a short route at the quarry. I've sport led it a couple times and trad led it once. It makes a really great trad lead for beginners since you can always chicken out and clip bolts. I also don't think it warrants the PG13 rating.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Bad Bolts in Las VegasNevadaSean StoopsSep 23, 2014
re: Red rocks - All day Shady routes in SeptemberNevadaSean StoopsSep 12, 2014
Left two draws on Tangerine Dream @ Riverside Quarry 4/13Lost and FoundSean StoopsApr 14, 2014
re: Any idea what happened at Jtree accident today?Injuries and AccidentsSean StoopsJan 4, 2014
Single blue La Sportiva found @ Pantie WallNevadaSean StoopsOct 21, 2013
John we found your hat & sunglassesNevadaSean StoopsOct 21, 2013
Looking for a partner any dayNevadaSean StoopsOct 3, 2013
re: Two chicas heading from Southern Mexico to Panama looking for climbing along the wayInternationalSean StoopsFeb 16, 2013

Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

The Black Pearl 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

NV : Red Rock : ... : Jackrabbit Buttress

Group Therapy 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

NV : Red Rock : ... : Angel Food Wall

Frogland 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

NV : Red Rock : ... : Whiskey Peak

Great Red Book 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

NV : Red Rock : ... : Great Red Book Rock

Birdland 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

NV : Red Rock : ... : Brass Wall

Three Kings 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

CA : San Bernardino Mountains : ... : Lower Tier

Super Glide 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

NV : Red Rock : ... : Little Springs Crag

Romper Room 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

NV : Red Rock : ... : Romper Room

Chrysler Crack 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

NV : Red Rock : ... : Sandy Corridor

Sandy Hole 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

NV : Red Rock : ... : Angel Food Wall

Pincushion 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

NV : Red Rock : ... : Mossy Ledges Area

Chocolate Tranquility Fountain 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

NV : Red Rock : ... : Willow Springs South

Pillar Talk 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

NV : Red Rock : ... : Willow Springs South

Karate Crack 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

NV : Red Rock : ... : Outhouse Wall

Ginger Cracks 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

NV : Red Rock : ... : Ginger Buttress

High Noon 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

CA : San Bernardino Mountains : ... : Coyote Crag

Hootenanny 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

CA : San Bernardino Mountains : ... : Coyote Crag

Coyotes at Sunset 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

CA : San Bernardino Mountains : ... : Coyote Crag

Shattered Dreams 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

CA : Inland Empire : ... : Slab City (Left)

Made To Order 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

CA : Inland Empire : ... : The Fun Factory

Structural Flaw 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

CA : Inland Empire : ... : The Fun Factory

Mantle Marathon 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

CA : Inland Empire : ... : Slab City (Left)

The Entertainer 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

CA : Inland Empire : ... : Island Wall

Lotta Balls 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

NV : Red Rock : ... : Lotta Balls Wall

Fun Factory 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

CA : Inland Empire : ... : The Fun Factory

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