Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Some Like it Hot (5.12b). Devils Tower, WY


Member Since: Apr 27, 2007
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
Contact Sean Nelb


Point Rank: # 1,542
Total Points: 404
Last Year: 19
Last 30 Days: 1
2 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Sean Nelb been climbing?










Contributions


All 175 | Routes 29 | Areas 3 | Photos 8 | Page Improvements | Comments 29 | Posts 39 | Stars 64 | Ratings 3
Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : The Monument : Desert Gold (5.13a PG13)
By: Sean Nelb When: Nov 30, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I took a rack with a slightly smaller cam (.3 camalot) than the recommended gear above and was glad to have it. A blue metolius would work as well. I didn't think the rock on the 5.8 pitch was all that bad until the last 15 ft. The traverse left off the belay and then back to the .12d crack was truly exciting, since nothing seems solid and you have to climb a bit above the bolt before getting in any good pro near the crack.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : Tiers of Fear (5.12a PG13)
By: Sean Nelb When: Nov 20, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The horizontals in the roof are very shallow. The lobes on a Camalot stick out too far past the head when they are compressed to fit. A #4 Friend supposedly doesn't have this problem. I never tried the Friend since I don't own one, and was never able to get any nuts in anywhere. Double up on the cams at the end of the left-ward traverse and then gun it to the anchor above the pointy roof. You'll need a good belayer: if you blow it and there's too much slack out you could hit the slab below... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 4X4 : Crankcase (5.12+)
By: Sean Nelb When: Nov 13, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I'd call it more sustained than Hydraulic Pump because HP has a hard move going through the corner switch, but then the difficulty lets up quite a bit and the route is mostly about pump management on easier terrain. Crankcase stays more consistently hard from the moment you leave the ground until you get to the offwidth--and then its hard in a whole different way.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Liberty Cap : Never Cry Wolf (5.11c/d)
By: Sean Nelb When: Nov 7, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Fun route. The offwidth is short, and you can dispense with the #5 Camalot if you don't want to bring it. I took one #3 and was happy.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Fin Wall : Demolition (5.11)
By: Sean Nelb When: Dec 11, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: A 70m rope will let you rap down to a ledge part-way up the pillar at the start. Its not hard to downclimb from there.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : Photo
By: Sean Nelb When: Sep 15, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: This is One Way Sunset, not Hollywood & Vine.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower
By: Sean Nelb When: May 31, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: A clarification on this year's falcon closures: routes on the north face from Belle Fourche Buttress to Psychic Turbulence are closed (including those routes). The closure includes the edge of the summit in that area and the rappel routes through that area. Unlike last year, where access to popular routes by Teacher's Lounge was allowed, this year no routes are partially open. Popular routes like New Wave, Broken Tree, Assembly Line, Patent Pending, and McCarthy North are all closed.

Edit: As o... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 4X4 : Crankcase (5.12+)
By: Sean Nelb When: Dec 13, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: A visually stunning line with great climbing the whole way. Crankcase is easily one of the best routes on the wall. It doesn't stay any size for very long and is more sustained than its neighbor, Hydraulic Pump.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : Photo
By: Sean Nelb When: Sep 26, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: This is Surfer Girl, an excellent but rarely attempted Todd Skinner line.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : East and Northeast Buttress... : Surfer Girl (5.12c)
By: Sean Nelb When: Sep 26, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Definitely high on the list for quality, hard Tower lines. Relentlessly sustained, with much 5.11 and 5.12 climbing even before the crux, but with a great rest afterwards. Excellent protection and clean falls.

If this route has weeds on it it can be cleaned on rappel by climbing Assembly Line, skipping the anchor traverse and continuing up another 20 ft until a rightward traverse on good holds can be made to the Maid in the Shade/Surfer Girl bolts.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : South and East Faces : TAD (5.7)
By: Sean Nelb When: Sep 15, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Every season this route sees traffic from people attracted by doing two pitches of 5.7 to the summit. The majority of them bail off the first pitch anchor or leave gear below. How do you want to ruin your day?


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : South and East Faces : Direct Southeast (5.11d)
By: Sean Nelb When: Sep 15, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: This is a great route. It has numerous difficult moves but has some rests in spots. Both pitches can be linked together quite readily with a 70m rope. A few anchoring options in the meadows are limited, but you can also use Walt Bailey Memorial's bolts.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : East and Northeast Buttress... : New Wave (5.10a)
By: Sean Nelb When: Sep 3, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: The crux has a variation that goes straight up instead of doing the rightward traverse by the bolt. This uses thin edges and sidepulls and is probably 5.11.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : East and Northeast Buttress... : Belle Fourche Buttress (5.10b)
By: Sean Nelb When: Sep 3, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: A direct 5.9 start is possible by starting at the base of the crack, before the approach slab. Although this lets you do the route in one long pitch, it featured poor rock and large, hollow flakes and is best avoided.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : East and Northeast Buttress... : Back to Montana (5.10d)
By: Sean Nelb When: Jul 7, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Getting up to the corner is a little loose with some plant life, but the crux corner itself is clean. Definitely a route worth getting on, especially if you're looking for harder lines in the shade after the west face starts burning.

Two 70 meter ropes will get you to the ground in one rap.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : South and East Faces : Hollywood & Vine (5.10c)
By: Sean Nelb When: Feb 28, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Both pitches can be linked together with a 70 m rope.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : North Face & Northwest Corn... : Whine and Bruises (5.12b)
By: Sean Nelb When: Sep 24, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: An excellent, thought-provoking route, but contrary to the above description, Whine and Bruises is mostly stemming around a seam so tight that a good chunk of the route is protected by bolts because gear is unavailable. It features continuous thin stemming with few rests and tricky gear placements. 5 bolts and a pin grace the upper two-thirds of the route, with some marginal small gear in between.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : West Face : La Vaca Solitaria (5.11a)
By: Sean Nelb When: Aug 18, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: This route is very good and would see a lot more action if it didn't start two pitches up. Most of the route is quite easier than 5.11a, with fun and suprising varied climbing throughout. The traverse from the El Matador anchor is not as hard as it looks and can be protected with a #2 camalot high in the left crack before stepping off the ledge.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : West Face : Deli Express (5.11d)
By: Sean Nelb When: Jul 23, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Deli Express is an excellent route that sees little traffic. One 70 m rope will get you down from the last pitch with just three rappels and a little 3rd class down-climbing at the bottom of the first pitch.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : South Face Lower Buttress : Lakota (5.11a)
By: Sean Nelb When: Jun 9, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: The best of the SW Shoulder sport routes. Though only 4 bolts long, the route is slightly overhanging, very sustained, and has tricky moves


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : South Face Lower Buttress : Dedicated To The Game (5.11c)
By: Sean Nelb When: Jun 9, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: This route is probably the most varied on the tower, and is definitely the best route on the SW shoulder. Excellent bolted face climbing leads to a roof, with a short, overhanging, off-fingers crack above that. The first roof is supposedly 5.11a, but it doesn't feel any easier than the second roof to me. A single 70m rope will you get you back to the ground, but rope drag makes simply lowering off a bad idea.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : West Face : Double Feature (5.11d)
By: Sean Nelb When: May 14, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: This route has some amazing climbing with unusual moves for the tower. Although it follows a crack, it often feels more like a face climb. I thought the bottom was a bit heady: gear can be found but it is not ideal. The rest of the route protects well, especially the crux.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : West Face : Some Like it Hot (5.12b)
By: Sean Nelb When: May 14, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: This route is an excellent, overlooked line. A few moderate face moves off the belay are poorly protected and require careful attention, but once the corner is reached the route is clean and protects well. The corner is short but sustained until the broken section before the anchor.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : Durrance Approach : Lovely Liana (5.11b)
By: Sean Nelb When: May 10, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: The bolted section on this route has some of the best, sustained face climbing on the Tower, leading into a devious crack that protects well.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : Durrance Approach : Black-Jones Direct (5.11b)
By: Sean Nelb When: May 10, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: This route and the ones around it have morning shade. The routes here, Lovely Liana, POTC, Black-Jones, and Manifest Destiny are all close together, can be gotten off of with a single 70 m rope and some 4th class downclimbing, never have traffic, and are high quality. Hang out with the folks lining up for Durrance and make them jealous as you climb pitch after pitch while they sit around.


Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>