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Member Since: Jan 27, 2013
Last Visit: 6 hours ago
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Sean McAuley
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Total Points: 17
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 20 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 7 | Posts 11 | Stars 1 | Ratings

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : No Man's Land (5.11b)
By: Sean McAuley When: Jun 8, 2015

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Comments: This climb is pretty awesome, the 5.10 crux is not a place you'd want to fall though. However, the two main cruxes are well protected with a bent fixed nut protecting the upper crux (which is pumpy but not as tough as the true crux). Way more climby than the yellow wall (potentially better?).


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : Carbs and Caffeine (5.11a)
By: Sean McAuley When: Jun 8, 2015

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Comments: Just did this climb again and I think the #2 is good (though it is a bit shallow, it's in solid rock and all lobes are within the horizontal). Also, there are good C3's in 2 seams (kinda shallow corners) above the #2. So I don't think I'd agree with 40ft of runout. However, there is definitely a lot of Rish 5.10 delicate climbing in must not fall territory (for the leader and the follower).

Also, I did this again just after No Man's Land and a week or so after my last time on the... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) : Bird Cage (5.10b)
By: Sean McAuley When: Jun 2, 2015

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Comments: My unnecessary 2 cents:
Sustained climbing with 4 sections that are all pretty similar in difficulty but may feel easier or harder depending on your size and skill set:
Sustained techy corner
Thin traverse
Tough pull into the roof
Big roof

As for myself, I find the corner and roof pretty simple and the traverse delicate. The crux for me is simply getting my feet up under me at the roof, though some of my smaller partners make this look elementary. One of the most bang for your buck single pitch... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : Carbs and Caffeine (5.11a)
By: Sean McAuley When: May 26, 2015

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Comments: Some thoughts:
-The bolt is probably fine. If you blow the crux you'll literally have the bolt at your waist, but:
-It may be a good idea to clip the bolt with a 2-footer. The placement of the bolt leads to having your rope run hard over the sidepully flake just below the crux, and there is possibility for some core damage if you take a big fall and the rope gets loaded hard across that edge (maybe clip it with a beefy nylon sling as well). A 2ft sling may lengthen the fall, but it's all air.... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Face to Face (5.10b)
By: Sean McAuley When: May 11, 2015

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Comments: The crux of P3 is almost directly over the crux traverse of P2 (slightly to the left actually) and is a butt scum into a thin seam which eventually becomes thin hands/stacked fingers. After this I traversed a few feet right, then angled back left on a fingertip (green alien) traverse into space, then powered through some big roofs to some stacked flakes. The Trapps App lists these flakes as loose but they felt pretty secure to me. Outrageous route that deserves to be counted in with the best ... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Criss Cross Direct (5.10a)
By: Sean McAuley When: Oct 17, 2013

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Comments: I'm with Lucander on this one, there should be a solid piton anchor placed on the first pitch. First off running both pitches together will put your second in serious decking potential through the crux, second if you do belay at the top of the first pitch it's fairly difficult to back up that anchor with equalized gear, and finally if the leader would blow the 5.8ish runout at the start of the second pitch they'd fall directly onto that pos set of rusty nuts. Additionally, the wires on those r... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : f. Tom's Wall & Next West F... : Crack-A-Lack (5.10a R)
By: Sean McAuley When: Jun 2, 2013

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Comments: Doesn't deserve the R. The face is fun and has ample pro, and the traverse is simple. When pulling the roof, place pro in the first pocket once you are finished with it...then pull and have some fun.


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