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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : The Daily Grind (5.10b/c)
By: Scott Thompson When: Sep 6, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Definitely 10+ if you go straight up at the mini roof. At 6.4 I can just about reach anything, but pulling that highstep with the seam layback was pretty thin for mid 10.
We thought this and Smell the Coffee were a bit forced (also climbed Snooze Button and thought the same thing). There are definitely some cool features on each route, but linking these features within a suggested rating and trying to climb the route the way the first-ascensionists envisioned felt pretty contrived.
I have a ... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : Bush Administration (5.10c)
By: Scott Thompson When: Aug 30, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route! Climbed it with Thor the day he finished it. Fairly sustained climbing with one distinct crux (at least for me). I'm tall and mid 10 felt about right. Subsequent ascents will probably find ways to cheat through some of the mini cruxes. A fine addition to Little Eiger.
The route is longer than most on Little Eiger (this is a good thing!). If the wall allows longer routes, why not go for it?
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Ironclads : The Quartz Garden : Little Wing (5.9)
By: Scott Thompson When: Aug 1, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Route still has missing hangers as of today. Gear anchor on top is a slung horn/small cams. It is easy to rap off the anchors of Rusted Razor rather than walk off.
Good climb! Solid rock and nice verticality for the first 15 feet.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Torrey's Peak : North Face Ski Descent (Mod. Snow R)
By: Scott Thompson When: Jun 17, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Uh, oh...now we've got ski descents on cb.com? this could be trouble.
This IS a fantastic descent! at least 5 stars. an axe is nice for the bit of downclimbing to get to the snow; its a bit icy and steep with exposure. the descent skis more like an open snowfield rather than a chute, so you can really let it go if you want; also, this eliminates the inevitable runnels associated with true couliors, Dead Dog for example, which make the skiing a tad more difficult. it was in p... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Humphrey's Dome : Sugar Magnolia (5.9+)
By: Scott Thompson When: May 8, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Blossom's bloomin', head's all empty and I don't care....
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : The Ytrid Deed (5.6)
By: Scott Thompson When: Oct 21, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun climb. Most of this route feels about 5.5, but with the abundance of loose rock (check those holds!), unique exposure, and somewhat dirty holds (or is that Ytrid?), it feels 5.6. there is a multitude of ways to do any number of the climbs on this fine face, as Tony describes--just go up and link something together. There are some sections of truly wonderful climbing, but with some downright crappy sections, too.
If this area were to clean up a bit, it would be a moderate mecca--oops, it al... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : V3 (5.8)
By: Scott Thompson When: Oct 13, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome climb! Brice, you are right on--althought the gear is superb and always right where you want it, placing gear is definitely thoughtful--its not your normal plug-and-chug line. althought it looks line a tight finger crack from the ground, the crack eats up medium cams (green BD, etc), and definitely bring hand size and a larger piece up top (#4 Friend baaarely works), or else you'll be looking at quite a runout.
Also, anyone know if trail crews are gonna hit up Cadillac Crag? It's ... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Green Dihedral (5.7)
By: Scott Thompson When: Oct 5, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a fantastic line! I agree with Ben: it is [definitely] the spiciest and most committing [Eldo] 7 I've done, and feels like 8- if done as one pitch, which I fully recommend--more bang for your buck, and the climbing flows so well! That sling belay is horrendous at the end, but for me, it was a relief to stop there after the pumpy section before it!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Calypso (5.6)
By: Scott Thompson When: Oct 2, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Calypso Direct: this variation is fun. it seemed a tad tough to me, the holds are all super-pos, even a tad too sharp (ouch), but getting my feet above the lip was pretty hard, however, this move is very well protected if you can reach high enough from the stance below the roof. once you have your feet above the lip, its hard to find gear above you, and the stance is really weird. if youre leading at your limit, youd definately want a piece, becuase decking onto the slab below the roof would not... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : Osiris (5.7)
By: Scott Thompson When: Oct 2, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: As if this route needs any more comments...oh well, I'm bored. I've done the first pitch two different ways: one is pure chimney style--which feels very hard for 5.6, and not to mention long, two is face climbing--which makes this much more enjoyable. There are a couple sections where you just have to do some chimney action (the first bulge 20 ft off the ground) to keep this ticked in at 5.6, but these arent bad. climbing the face to the left of the chimney feels 6ish, and is never desperate. Th... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Pony Express t... : Mesca-Line (5.7)
By: Scott Thompson When: Sep 23, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: well, since we're still talking about this...i went back and climbed this; the cam in the flake is good--theres a perfect pocket for a textbook cam placement in the flake, as AC describes. it will walk out of position with rope drag, but thats an easy fix. as to the other AC--no, i didnt bounce test it either, this isnt aid climbing (perhaps we should just put a 3-inch BONG in there?). for the anti-cam: this stance/move can be protected by a bomber stopper at torso height, though when ... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Swanson Arete (5.5)
By: Scott Thompson When: Sep 16, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a pretty good route. We did it in 2 pitches from the Red Ledge; 3 seems pretty absurd as each pitch would be really short! there is [definitely] a runout section (basically the last half of P2 as per Rossiter and the topo photo above) but if you choose your path wisely, the climbing is very easy. the path of least resistance for us led away from the arete (after P1 Rossiter) and up to a big tree above a large flake, with a nice ledge for belay--watch out for rope drag.
My par... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Pony Express t... : Mesca-Line (5.7)
By: Scott Thompson When: Sep 9, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: [Casey] makes a good point--i remember now that the cam placement is [definitely] flaring, but in solid rock for what its worth. sure it may only be pychological, but i enjoy that when pulling through a crux. [I'm] gonna have to jump on this climb again to rekindle my memories.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Pony Express t... : Mesca-Line (5.7)
By: Scott Thompson When: Sep 9, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: did this great line a few months ago. this is definately the best 7 on the west ridge, and one of my favorite 7's in the canyon. after reading the comments here (Aaron's) i was kinda skeptical about the route (ie. protection), but found it very well protected. nearing the flake towards the top, i was able to plug in a piece every 5 or 6 feet. and im not sure what Zach is talking about, you should definately plug in that cam beneath the flake--this will protect you for the crux. the stance is per... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - top to Xanadu : Knight's Move (5.7)
By: Scott Thompson When: Sep 9, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this a while back--a very fine route! The traverse at the end of P1 (or middle of P1 if combining) is tricky indeed. The holds are very positive flakes, but these are loose in spots and pro is pretty much nonexistent. You could fish in some small nuts or I believe I used a 3.5 FR in a larger spot, but this gear is pretty much pychological only, because everything is loose. The moves across these flakes to the belay nook are pretty spooky with the minimal gear. There was a fixed stopper aroun... more >>
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : Durrance Approach : Durrance (5.7)
By: Scott Thompson When: Sep 4, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: couple of things:we did an approach pitch (we felt there was one 6 move) right where the last meadows rap ends. to get there: find trail off the paved path right next to the two fixed scopes that look at the old wooded ladder. follow obvious path up to base of slabs below leaning column. we picked a line which was nice hands at the bottom and a little wider at the top. this is the most obvious, continuous crack in this area. it terminates straight into an obvious torso-sized rock which is split ... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : West Overhang (5.7)
By: Scott Thompson When: Sep 3, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is an easy 7. If you're skeptical about it, go for it--the crux moves are over so quick, and it is good "roof practice" as the other moves on the route are so easy. The pin is not spectacular--half-driven angle (however solid looking and in good rock). I pulled on it pretty hard and one of the eyes flexed a bit; but the backup gear is good and the fall onto the pin if neccessary would be short. Fun route, well worth doing if waiting for other routes on the Wind Tower.
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Lover's Leap : Lover's Leap (5.7)
By: Scott Thompson When: Aug 27, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a fun route, altough the climbing itself is definitely not three star quality, it's a fun summit climb, and has a bit of an adventure feel. The line we followed is very obvious from the talus slope: it is the most obvious crack system which follows a plum line from the nadir of the face up to just shy of the rightmost part of the obvious notch; take a second and check it out from the talus.
We began in the most obvious (largest) LF dihedral (directly below notch in pic). Turni... more >>
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Walt's Wall : Edward's Crack (5.7)
By: Scott Thompson When: Aug 27, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great climb. the start looks intimidating, but is really fun and not too hard. just jam and layback the handcrack in the dihedral, smear your left foot, and work your way up. placing gear in that first 10 feet would be incredibly awkward--a local gave me the suggestion to just climb up to where you can get a great rest with your right foot in one of the horizontal breaks in the right-hand wall of the dihedral, with your left foot still smearing--now put in your first piece. I liked the first pit... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : North Face Center (5.7)
By: Scott Thompson When: Aug 10, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: A fine route! A couple 5.7 moves with great rests. Gear: I didnt use anything larger than a 2 camalot (save for one #10 hex). Theres a great exposed belay on the arete at the top of pitch one (dont go into v-slot). This eases rope drag and allows you to see your partner, and theres no belay difficulties if parties are on empor (always). if you opt for the original finish instead of empor finish, you can: climb the exposed arete just above this belay, or jump into the easy corner. at the to... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : East Face (Standard) (5.4)
By: Scott Thompson When: Aug 7, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: George: so a single 60M rap off the west will get you down? and you can pull the rope by yourself? thanks
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome : East of the Sun (5.7)
By: Scott Thompson When: Aug 3, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Question: does P2 of this route end with the East Slab crack? From the belay chair, I traversed 10 ft right and the logical finish was to jump into the East Slab crack (luckily, right where the fun climbing begins!) I looked around for another crack, but all I saw were small seams which looked pretty incipient, i.e. wouldn't take pro well. However, it seems like you could go almost anywhere, just banking on if you can get gear or not; any suggestions? P1 of East of Sun/Cozyhang is a fu... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Rewritten (5.7)
By: Scott Thompson When: Jul 16, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Casey: yup, that was us. yeah, my partner's voice doesnt carry far at all. she was trying to extricate my nuts (and must have put her whole body into it) and knocked off a couple of blocks at that loose belay niche (end of P3). i heard you yelling, and i thought they came from folks rapping the dirty deed. i gave a good "ROCK" once i heard you (i didnt hear my partner yell anything) and then heard the crash. im glad you heard her; i was pretty scared because they sounded rather large, ... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Rewritten (5.7)
By: Scott Thompson When: Jul 13, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this yesterday, what a phenominal route! Couple of things: we did the route in four pitches pretty easily and safely--had double 60M ropes, so it helped a lot--esp. on the first pitch.
You can protect the first pitch just fine as George says. For the traverse, theres a good small nut at eye level, and I found a good #4 BD micro placement right at my feet (I traversed pretty low).
The end of pitch two now has a double bolt anchor equipped with chains and a rap ring--looked very ne... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : You're Ugly and Your Mother... (5.8)
By: Scott Thompson When: Jul 2, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very good climb! The line looks somewhat improbable from below--and intimidating, but it's not bad once youre into it.
Bring an extra hand sized piece and a #3 Camalot for the hand crack--if you're short and not too solid on jamming, the hand crack section will be brutal. But if you're tall you can jam and stem pretty easily for good rests along the slot. The crux felt to be the few moves out of the deep slot where the hand crack jaunts out on to the licheny face above, and finishes into ... more >>
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