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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Spiney Ridge : Weapons Of Mass Arousal (5.12b/c)
By: Scott W When: May 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Gets 12d/13a in the new guidebook. Not sure what grade is true, felt pretty hard for 12c.
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Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Rusty Cage : Blackalicious (5.12a)
By: Scott W When: Aug 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Short but perfect stone and really fun climbing.
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Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Munitions Roof : Pocket Rocket (5.12b)
By: Scott W When: Aug 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Quite the turd, greasy boulder problem at the start, 40 feet of choss, then a boulder problem at the bulge that looks very manufactured to a nice slab. Not my favorite climb in the canyon.
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Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Downtown : The Cigar : The Gravy Train (5.12b)
By: Scott W When: Aug 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Harder for me than any of the other 12bs or 12cs in the canyon. Bouldery finish and no gimme.
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Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Downtown : The Cigar : Floyd Direct (5.12a/b)
By: Scott W When: Aug 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: 12a...IF you get the beta perfect, it's a hard read on onsight.
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Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Slavery Wall : The Burden of Immortality (5.12c)
By: Scott W When: Aug 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I found this route very finger size and height dependent. I had to use my pinky and ring finger for several pockets that everyone else I have watched try it use the A team. The crux can be done several different ways depending on your height as well and seems to change the difficulty a lot.
For me, very hard for 12d compared to any other 12d and 13as in the area, felt solid 13a. Crowned Prince Abdullah for example was far far easier for me than this thing, EKV, not even on the radar in diffic... more >>
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Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Superratic Pillar : Hellion (5.13a/b)
By: Scott W When: Aug 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Soft for the 13c grade given in the guide book.
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Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Mexican Mountain Road Area : Dylan Wall : Blowin' in the Wind (5.10b)
By: Scott W When: Nov 14, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Should you happen to enter the offwidth the wrong direction, be prepared to battle for a bit=)
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Location: WA : Tieton River : Wild Cat Wall : Fire Stone (5.12-)
By: Scott W When: Sep 1, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good to know a bolt was added at the top, I considered leading this on RP, crack isn't all that good of rock up there though...I liked the use of my legs too much to give her a go=)
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Location: UT : Joe's Valley : New Joe's : Limbo and Tsunami : I'd Rather Be Climbing Her (V6)
By: Scott W When: Jul 13, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: funky funky start, not my favorite problem around.
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Location: UT : Joe's Valley : New Joe's : Area 51 : Stand Up (V8)
By: Scott W When: Jul 13, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: If instead of doing a right heel hook, turn it into a heel toe this problem feels V5/6 or V8 from the low start.
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Location: UT : Joe's Valley : New Joe's : Chip and Dale : Planet of the Apes (V6+)
By: Scott W When: Jul 13, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: AKA French Press, fun fun.
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Location: UT : Joe's Valley : Left Fork : Riverside Boulders : Feels Like Grit (V8)
By: Scott W When: Jul 13, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Feels V5 or easier.
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Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Big Daddy Overhang (5.12b)
By: Scott W When: Jul 8, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: LoL, I wish, I fell on 5.11 just last weekend!
Dave is projecting himself here...!
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Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Slavery Wall : Aunt Jemimas Bisquick Thund... (5.12d)
By: Scott W When: Jul 7, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Solid one move wonder, fun.
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Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Exasperator (5.10c)
By: Scott W When: Jun 24, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does it get anymore classic? Seriously, flawless climb.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Cookie Cliff : The Enema (5.11b)
By: Scott W When: Jun 24, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I screamed like a girl at the very top of this guy as I slid out of the flare and stopped on some tiny crystals just before whipping...bring some offset nuts or maybe just normal ones...I only took cams to a #3 and didn't get anything I would call "good" on the top section of crack until just before the anchors, hence the scream.
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : The Office : King of the Hangdogs (5.12b/c)
By: Scott W When: Jun 24, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Impressively classic 5.11b/c dihedral to a V7/8 boulder problem that is literally one move. Takes away from the route quite a bit. Not even fun to be honest, not sure if I'll ever try it again. 1 star tops.
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Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Unfinished Symphony (5.11b)
By: Scott W When: Jun 22, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I confirm, the last slab pitch is retro bolted, very safe now and way less of head game than it was previously. A little sad as it takes the excitement down a lot=(
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Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Photo
By: Scott W When: Jun 22, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looks so easy from here, sitting at my desk.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Excuse Station (5.11) : Photo
By: Scott W When: Jun 22, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I used a few .75 camalots and one blacky metolius also haha. But you can only place them for the first 10 or 15 feet. Then is 30 meters of #1s.
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Location: UT : Echo Canyon : The Dry Wall : The Pit (5.12c)
By: Scott W When: Jun 22, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Brutal start, hardest move on the wall...hope you're a lefty and like doing one arm lock offs.
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Location: UT : Echo Canyon : The Dry Wall : Graffiti Patient (5.12b)
By: Scott W When: Jun 22, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: First moves are freaking brutal, one arm with legs under the roof on a shallow 2 finger pocket. Hardest single move on the wall bar none.
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Location: UT : Echo Canyon : The Dry Wall : Wicked Bender (5.13a)
By: Scott W When: Jun 22, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've only ever heard this called 13a and the route just left of it that isn't on the topo 13b. Easy easy for 13b, route left of it, solid 13b.
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Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Right Fork : Cragganmore : Popcorn (5.12c)
By: Scott W When: Jun 22, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fine line, cleaning up nicely...if you're crafty, you can find a kneebar rest that is quite nice 2 bolts before the crux.
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