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Fall Line, City of Rocks


Member Since: Jun 6, 2010
Last Visit: Oct 3, 2012
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Point Rank: # 9,186
Total Points: 27
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Scott T been climbing?










Contributions


All 40 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 2 | Page Improvements | Comments 7 | Posts 24 | Stars 4 | Ratings 2

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Snowshed Wall : Pea Soup (5.9)
By: Scott T When: May 14, 2011

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Comments: Not sure I agree with "loads of placements up top" referring to the slab section. There are only a few placements for sm-med nuts and microcams. The placements are shallow but good if you take the time. I always find this part to be the crux; maybe the crack start off the ground favors taller climbers as I am 6'4".


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Snowshed Wall : Alvin's Route (TR) (5.10)
By: Scott T When: May 14, 2011

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Comments: This is a fun climb. From below, it looks a bit junky...but climbs much better!

I found the best place to start is below a couple left facing flakes which lead to the toe of the arete, but not as far right as the "Flakes" route. Follow the crack on the left side of the arete up to the chains.

Like 426 says, many variations exist...more condusive when toproping. However, with the location of the chains and the sharp arete up higher, falls from the left side or on the arete would rub your rope ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : ... : Photo
By: Scott T When: May 13, 2011

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Comments: Great picture! Gave me vertigo.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Black Wall : One Hand Clapping (5.9)
By: Scott T When: May 6, 2011

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Comments: I had nasty rope drag extending P2 to Lizard Ledge. Highly recommend the ledge belay just after the crux. Your experience may vary, though!

If just doing P2 then rapping off, I'd suggest shedding some weight and leaving a bunch of cams at the chains atop P1. I used 1 #2 Camalot, and doubles smallest cam to .5 Camalot on P2. No need for doubles of 1, 2, and 3 Camalots...which sure are handy on P1:)


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Phantom Spires : Upper Spire : Fear of Flying (5.9)
By: Scott T When: Apr 11, 2011

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Comments: Truly exquisite! There is definitly a standout crux, while the rest is thought-provoking and varied. Decent rests give you a little time to decode the next sequence.


Location: CO : Gunnison : God's Crag
By: Scott T When: Apr 4, 2011

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Comments: If the waterfall is running, resist the temptation to take a cool shower. After goofing off under the waterfall, I stepped out of the spray zone and moments later, a huge rock had come flying down and landed right where I was!! Freaky!


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Black Wall : Touch and Go (5.9)
By: Scott T When: Feb 6, 2011

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Comments: There are two more pitches to reach Lizard Ledge. From the bolted belay, move left around the corner, climb up easily passing a two bolt anchor for (Empty Sky Direct?) to a great hand crack in a left facing corner (5.7), leading to a sloping belay ledge beneath an impossing headwall.

The third pitch takes the large right facing corner, beginning with a 15 ft crack. Climbing the dihedral directly is fine, but watch out for a bunch of rotten and loose rock - better to climb the crack. Continue up... more >>