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Bocan


Member Since: Feb 15, 2006
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Point Rank: # 932
Total Points: 631
Last Year: 68
Last 30 Days: 11
8 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
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All (2687) | Routes | Areas | Photos (117) | Comments (46) | Posts (2492) | Stars (17) | Ratings (15)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Across from The Bihedral ak...
By: Scott McMahon When: Jul 12, 2012

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Comments: FYI, the tree stand for the tyrolean is broken (7/12/12). Also, there is a death block to the right of Reunion that is quite loose.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Across from The Bihedral ak... : Unknown Far Right aka Dexte... (5.3)
By: Scott McMahon When: Jul 2, 2012

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Comments: Led up this just to clean the anchors. Probably one move of 5.3 and then not any harder than walking around the back. It should be called this "it is what it is", since that's pretty much the deal. Great for new leaders. You can lead up to the first bolt then combine the line w/ Nurse Nikki (5.5) for a really safe first lead.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Across from The Bihedral ak... : Unknown 5 Arete aka Nurse J... (5.5)
By: Scott McMahon When: Jul 2, 2012

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Comments: I wouldn't quite give it a bomb, but the little roof is the 5.5 move and after that it's done. But it's a great for new leaders.


Location: CO : Golden : Lookout Mountain Crag : 5.9 Face (5.9)
By: Scott McMahon When: Jul 2, 2012

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Comments: Up to the first bolt is tricky. I must have kept starting wrong as I thought the climbing was easier after the first bolt. Cool rails and crips, with a fun sequence. Good rests and clipping stances, but it's pretty sustained for the short pitch.


Location: CO : Golden : Lookout Mountain Crag : 5.8 Crack (5.8)
By: Scott McMahon When: Jul 2, 2012

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Comments: There is also a second loose rock on the top 1/3 of the pitch. It's about a book-sized chockstone in the main crack, just before the roof. Mostly still solid, but it does shift and will get worse with more use as a hand and foothold.

FYI, the broken hold at the top makes the top out much harder and more difficult to protect. New leaders can escape to the right if necessary.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Gregory Canyon (including T... : Third Pinnacle
By: Scott McMahon When: Jun 1, 2012

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Comments: So, there is a refrigerator-sized death block sitting on the climber's left of the thin crack that seems to be completely disconnected. I know it's been there for quite some time, but it's resting only on a few inches of block and most likely only held down by its weight. Additionally, it's resting on a good amount of fist-sized rocks, so I would imagine at some point in time it will come off the wall.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Second Flatiron : Freeway (5.0)
By: Scott McMahon When: May 14, 2012

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Comments: NOTE!!! The flake right through the Trees of Love is loose! It might have been that way forever, but I don't remember it flexing when I pulled on it before. I didn't X it, since I wasn't using chalk.

Posted twice...second in conditions for safety's sake.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Second Flatiron : Freeway (5.0)
By: Scott McMahon When: May 14, 2012

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Comments: NOTE!!! The flake right through the Trees of Love is loose! It might have been that way forever, but I don't remember it flexing when I pulled on it before. I didn't X it, since I wasn't using chalk.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Boulderado : Ho Hum (5.4) : Photo
By: Scott McMahon When: Dec 22, 2010

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Comments: Great photo...making 5.4 look like 5.10!


Location: CO : New Devil's Head Guide Book...
By: Scott McMahon When: Oct 4, 2010

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Comments: Beautiful book...too bad they did the Devil's Head weekend like right after it came out and put up some new routes!!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome : East Slab (5.6)
By: Scott McMahon When: Aug 30, 2010

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Comments: Pretty continuous 5.6 the whole way. Holds and pockets materialize just where you need them, but expect solid 5.6 the whole way. I'd agree with maybe not doing this for your first lead as it can be a little heady.

Do as one pitch, lots of extra rope w/ a 60 meter.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Gregory Canyon (including T... : ... : Thin Crack (5.4)
By: Scott McMahon When: Aug 26, 2010

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Comments: Start underneath the small tree is a bit harder. I'd recommend flipping your rope to the climber's right of the tree right away, otherwise you'll spend 10 minutes trying to get it unstuck from the branches.

Thought it was harder than a standard Flatiron 5.4, especially starting under the small tree.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Fall River Road (US 34 West... : McGregor Slab : Right Standard (5.6)
By: Scott McMahon When: Aug 23, 2010

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Comments: Fun climb. The pitches were LONG, the rope (60m) was run to the end almost every pitch and 2 belays were down climbed to. Due to the wet summer, it was highly vegetated w/ grasses and moss making it slippery in places. You can make the climb go up to 5.8, but there were 5.6 - 5.7 variations to escape into if necessary. The run out sections seemed the hardest, but only because the cracks were moss-filled, forcing you out onto the slabs.

Walk off was a rough and time consuming bushwhack.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Photo
By: Scott McMahon When: Aug 19, 2010

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Comments: Look at all the debris built up behind it!


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Cays : Cays 3 : Trundle Fish (5.5)
By: Scott McMahon When: Jul 28, 2010

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Comments: The last section before the anchors can be a bit sketchy with limited pro due to the upper flake being pretty rotten and hollow. I ran it out into most likely ground fall territory rather than put a cam in the right-trending flake. Fun climb, although a little dirty and grown out. Be careful pulling on that guy!


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Left Book : Hiatus (5.7)
By: Scott McMahon When: Jul 17, 2010

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Comments: Moves can be a bit thin in places. I wouldn't jump on this unless you don't mind run out friction moves.

BETA BELOW!!!

To sew it up bring at least 3 big pieces (#3.5, #4.5, #5 old Camalot or the corresponding new C4s) for the fat crack. I'd recommend only cams since you're placing at your ankles. Sliding didn't work as well as I hoped and you're directly above a ledge. Try to get gear in early, when it's gone it's gone.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Second Flatiron : ... : Photo
By: Scott McMahon When: Jul 13, 2010

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Comments: Easy to get off route. I started sort of through the trees in the right facing gully, but then it got too 4th class and I went back left. Had to down climb from a pinnacle into the Gutter then back up to where I hit the trail. Don't know how I missed the jump, but I'll try again!! Stay left is my advice.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Arapahoe Peaks : Skywalker Couloir
By: Scott McMahon When: Jun 21, 2010

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Comments: Snow all the way up, small runnel. Good neve, turned to soft snow with the sun. Direct Leia is best option as cornices guard most of the escape exit. One small hole down low and a 5 foot crack 1/2 way up. Great shape.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorg... : Flattop Mountain - S side : Dragon's Tail Couloir (WI2 M2)
By: Scott McMahon When: Jun 14, 2010

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Comments: Sloppy snow. Top half is very wet and melting out quickly.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : ... : Photo
By: Scott McMahon When: Mar 22, 2010

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Comments: Am I the only person that noticed the action figure?


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Clear Creek Canyon - Ice : Little Eiger area - ice : Coors Lite (WI2-3)
By: Scott McMahon When: Mar 16, 2010

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Comments: Right hand side anchor chains seem to be covered by ice. There is a rap anchor on a tree w/ two quicklinks to the left.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : East Face Left (5.5)
By: Scott McMahon When: Feb 14, 2010

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Comments: In response to Warren's comment, I believe there is a ring piton when you hit the roof, then if you traverse right there is a bolt about 1/2 way. It's been a while, so don't rely on that beta, but I remember being happy clipping both.


Location: Garrett Soper : Devil's Lake Leading : Photo
By: Scott McMahon When: Nov 8, 2009

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Comments: Great pic, that looks like a awesome climb1!


Location: Scott McMahon : Hueco Tanks : Photo
By: Scott McMahon When: Oct 20, 2009

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Comments: Is that you Turbo??? I loved that movie when I was a kid..


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Ironclads
By: Scott McMahon When: Oct 19, 2009

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Comments: Does anyone have beta on the LOWER section of the Ironclads (left at road split)?


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