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Last Pitch.  Not a bad splitter at all! <br />Andrew Burr Photo


Member Since: Feb 10, 2007
Last Visit: Jun 5, 2014
Contact Scott McLeod


Point Rank: # 2,017
Total Points: 273
Last Year: 12
Last 30 Days: 0
44 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Scott McLeod been climbing?










Contributions


All 92 | Routes 4 | Areas | Photos 43 | Page Improvments | Comments 18 | Posts 18 | Stars 8 | Ratings 1
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : House Range : Notch Peak : Western Hardman (5.11)
By: Scott McLeod When: Jun 10, 2013

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Comments: Had another great day on WH this weekend. We were going for speed and found that we were able to link P1 & P2, P3 & P4, P5 & P6, P7 & P8, and even P9 & P10. I was happy to find that with thoughtful use of gear and runners, 9 & 10 actually went with very little drag. I would love to link from 10 to the top.

In the interest of moving on to the upper wall of Notch Peak, has anyone ever climbed the mellow looking ridge to the summit rather than going around the corner to pitch 11 & 12?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Coal Pit Buttress : Coalpit Connection (5.10b)
By: Scott McLeod When: Sep 14, 2011

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Comments: And one more thing, if someone were to bring a small saw and cut out the gnarly, rotting, dead tree "guarding" the beginning of the finger crack, it would improve this line greatly! In which case DON'T belay right below the crack!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Coal Pit Buttress : Coalpit Connection (5.10b)
By: Scott McLeod When: Sep 14, 2011

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Comments: Regardless of who did this first, or when it was originally done, there are some cool sections on this line. My suggestions would be to A) Consider approaching via Endless Torment rather than the first 2 pitches of Precious Lost (which are not memorable). Either way, you have some bush whacking. And B) set up your belay directly below the finger crack rather than at the "nut and pin" anchor. That way, you don't have to worry about the rope running over the sharp arete. Pitches 3 and 4 reall... more >>


Location: UT : House Range : Notch Peak : Western Hardman (5.11)
By: Scott McLeod When: Jun 29, 2011

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Comments: Wow, what an outstanding route. Gorgeous country, amazing solitude, such a magnitude of rock, and empty. Amazing. Western Hardman is great. I think this route has matured like a fine wine. I found the climbing to be quite moderate, with the two cruxes coming in at 5.10, no harder. There was very little loose rock, solid gear, solid stone, solid bolts. All in all, it was great.

We took one 70m, rapped the whole way. Which works just fine for the Godsend pitch. It is worth being heads up... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Convent
By: Scott McLeod When: May 27, 2011

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Comments: Decent off of the convent:
From the highest point on the NORTH end of the Convent, walk South (towards Castleton) down the hill for about 50 yds. and look for a cairn below a mushroom roof. From the cairn you will see a distinct ledge and a new and improved rap down Choir Boyz. One 70 gets you down. IMPORTANT - stick to the corner when arriving at last rap station, otherwise it is easy to find yourself swinging in the breeze.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Convent : The Value of Audacity (5.11+)
By: Scott McLeod When: Apr 13, 2011

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Comments: Decent off of the convent:
From the highest point on the NORTH end of the Convent, walk South (towards Castleton) down the hill for about 50 yds. and look for a cairn below a mushroom roof. From the cairn you will see a distinct ledge and a new and improved rap down Choir Boyz. One 70 gets you down. IMPORTANT - stick to the corner when arriving at last rap station, otherwise it is easy to find yourself swinging in the breeze.


Location: CO : Gunnison : God's Crag
By: Scott McLeod When: Sep 3, 2009

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Comments: How long does it take to get to God's Crag (or tick rock) from Gunnison?

Thanks


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Forgotten Trails
By: Scott McLeod When: Jul 19, 2009

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Comments: The approach beta mentioned here in the comments is still accurate as of July 09


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Beastie Boys (5.12d PG13)
By: Scott McLeod When: Nov 1, 2008

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Comments: Harddd but brilliant(at least for us mortals). one of the most stellar lines around, if nothing else for its improbability. You get it all: power, delicacy, spook-factor. Get to it soon, it seems to be deteriorating bit by bit...


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : First Creek Slabs : Lady Luck (5.7)
By: Scott McLeod When: Apr 3, 2008

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Comments: Whats the descent?


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Naked Edge (5.11a/b)
By: Scott McLeod When: Nov 5, 2007

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Comments: Protecting the bomb bay is not as hard as it is described. My suggestion would be to back up the pin before entering the chimney mere centimeters below the pin with a stopper or a yellow Alien/TCU (or both, which I did) I reached out to the slot out left, but it was both not a good piece, and DEFINITELY in the way (as mentioned above). Also, it doens't make the fall shorter, so the better packups would be near the pin. As far as the exit moves at the roof, a red Alien is decent, but more impo... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Freeway (5.11c)
By: Scott McLeod When: Aug 1, 2007

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Comments: Brilliant line. Bring your "A" game. This climb has it all! crack, face, slab, well protected, bold, etc. I think that the crux can be different for everybody because of this.

Great climb!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Washington Column : Astroman (5.11c)
By: Scott McLeod When: Jun 28, 2007

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Comments: Can I just say that the Harding Slot is NOT as bad as all the hype. It is tricky no doubt, but certainly not worth all the fear it instills in people's hearts... Mostly, it is just a work out.

The crux is getting IN to the slot, not getting though the wide section. And, at the crux of getting in, the gear is right next to you and BOMBER. red Camalots and 2 friends. Plus, there are two jugs, mostly its the feet disappearing out from under you. Oh yeah, and if you really felt despo, you cou... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Gordon's Direct (5.11b R)
By: Scott McLeod When: Mar 12, 2007

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Comments: OK, first of all, figuring this out is part of the challenge, excitement, and fun, so the above route description has a little too much beta in my opinion. Beta is best included in the comments sections, and even better if it has a **BETA** type warning.

But that aside, I am 5'6", and can do all of these moves. It is exciting and at times reachy, but never height dependent.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Moses : Primrose Dihedrals (5.11+)
By: Scott McLeod When: Mar 6, 2007

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Comments: Incredible Route!

My Ideas:
-If you can, have the second lower or throw down the big cam after the crux start. you wont need it again and it is a pain to lug up there. we used a new #5 Camalot. BTW- the fixed off-set/stopper is no longer there...
-link the first 2 pitches, pretty straight forward, just bring enough runners (12-15), and if you have two ropes, alternate them appropriately.
-link the 3rd and 4th pitches. The third can be easily navigated by shuffling cams as you go up, t... more >>


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Best Warm, Multipitch climbs for Mid February?NevadaScott McLeodJan 8, 2014
Best Warm, Multipitch climbs for Mid February?NevadaScott McLeodJan 8, 2014
re: Red Rock partner for November 15-17Utah PartnersScott McLeodNov 6, 2013
re: Red Rock partner for November 15-17Utah PartnersScott McLeodNov 5, 2013
re: Cave Lake State ParkNevadaScott McLeodMay 6, 2013
Camping in St. GeorgeSouthern Utah DesertsScott McLeodOct 3, 2008
re: Climbing Accident in Maple CanyonInjuries and AccidentsScott McLeodJul 26, 2008
re: Climbing Accident in Maple CanyonInjuries and AccidentsScott McLeodJul 25, 2008
re: Non trade-route moderates in the red?NevadaScott McLeodApr 4, 2008
Second Question...NevadaScott McLeodApr 3, 2008
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